Messages

Ron,

I plan to remove the riser, it is original.  The mechanic can fabricate a new one, suggested I can go with black pipe but he would do a brass section where the nipple is attached.   He also suggested to replace the muffler, he has installed a Veralift model that has both input & output on top.

What did you do for a replacement muffler?

I have flexible coupling is this the best point to disconnect the shaft?

ron,

You said:

"I disconnected the drive shaft and only lifted the front of the engine up high enough to remove the mounts and replace them."

Did you lift the rear of the engine to replace the rear mounts?

"With the old mounts removed I "wiped" some epoxy on the walls of the lag-bolt holes and install new lag-bolts."

Did you let the epoxy cure before you installed new longer lag bolts?

I take you comment that the new mounts made a HUGE difference.   Did you replace al 4 old mounts with K75 mounts?

Stu,

Asked too soon, did a search and found it.  There is a treasure of info on this site.  All I have to do is look, duh!!

Stu,

Do you have a contact number for Gerry at Catalina?

Ron,

Am going through maintenance records and have a call into PO.  The mounts have been replaced just not sure when.  The issue is you can see the mounts have moved and the forward lag bolts do not tighten.   What do you think of the idea of through bolts from the bottom using large fender washers or such for backing?  Through bolts are in 1 of the 2 mounts for each of the aft mounts.  It is not possible to get to them via the rear access, would need a child's arm to even get close.

The light I installed over the galley was:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/swivel-led/

It is mounted to the wooden strip which is orientated 45 deg and facing downward from the front of the front of trim piece.  The light still has the ability to rotate but not the full range of movement it had when mounted on a flat surface.

The previous link was for another light I installed.  The light I installed in the head was:


https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-dome-light-fixtures-non-waterproof/105-oval-dome-light-led-fixture-with-switch/1490/3465/

Stu,

I would agree but one of the current bolts on each of the rear mounts have already been changed to thru bolts.  It would make sense to use a large fender type washer to spread the force and through bolt from the bottom up leaving a stud so that only a nut with a lock & flat washer has to be used.  A circular hole should not weaken the structure which comes from the sides & corner.  The picture of the back of the stringer looks to be a bit of a hack job and not very professional.

Looks like I used the same pic twice on my original post.

I meant the last picture to be the following showing two black circles as potential locations to drill access holes.

I had a diesel mechanic come by to look at the engine and give me an estimate for adjusting the valves.  He made a suggestion I would like to share and get some feedback.  He said the motor mounts were fine but they were walking because the lag bolts were not holding the mounts firm.  I said I would either use longer bolt or drill and glass it over then drill.  He said I should just use through bolts and explained one of the bolts on each side had already been done, showed me I could see this through the access holes at the rear of the stringers.

First two pictures show the motor mount with access to rear and the through bolt from under  the stringer.

He then suggested I could drill two large holes in the front of the stringer to allow access to the front mounts, these are shown as the two large circles.

My question is has anyone ever heard of this or actually tried it?  It sounds like a feasible idea but I have no idea how thick the front of the stringer is or how thick the top of it is.  I can get a close guesstimate by comparing inside measurements to outside but I am not a contortionist and it is not easy working behind the engine.

I like the idea of having them on the centerline but assumed I would use long screws from outside, same concept as the topside teak handrails.   That would mean removing the companion hatch cover.  I was concerned using screws from inside would not be strong enough.  I have the teak handrails already.  Has anyone actually installed then using srews from inside?  If so what length because I want to get as much bite as possible without drilling through.  Also would it be good to add something like 5200 for additional strength?   My concern is a handhold giving way when it is really needed. 

My 1986 MK 1 does not the overhead teak hand holds as shown below.


I want to add at least the longer one aft but am trying to decide whether to mount it on the centerline of port side closer to the Nav station.   I think it would be very useful while heeled over and also another good place to hang things to air dry.

Has anybody installed them?  Thoughts & comments.

I just recently changed all my bulbs to LED, not so much for more light but for power consumption.  All lights now draw approx 20% of what they used to..  I tried a number of different ones, ordered a couple to see what they were like, also tried a couple of different fixtures.  I found the following fixture to be good for the galley and Nav station due to the narrow overhead space:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/swivel-led/

The following worked well for the head in place of the previous fixture.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-dome-light-fixtures-non-waterproof/105-oval-dome-light-led-fixture-with-switch/1490/3465/

How did you get the old mounts off without lifting the engine?  I read a previous post that explained cutting the bolts on the old mounts then taking the new mounts apart.

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7920.msg54936.html#msg54936

Is this the technique you used?

Roland,

What mounts did you use?