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Messages - kh3412

#16
Had the same thing happen to me.
Had to order the spacer as the threads are not all the way down.
Hull thickness is right at the point you may or may not need the spacer.
#17
Main Message Board / Re: Aft cabin bolts Access
July 12, 2022, 07:10:05 AM
I needed to reach the water fitting in the same area.
I just cut a round hole in the ceiling and closed off with a small port.
#18
Main Message Board / Re: New Transmission
July 12, 2022, 07:02:50 AM
Did the twin disk install on my boat.
Yes I had to trim the port stringer but was not a big deal.
You cod do the install without trimming if your comfortable with your shifter being reversed I believe.
If you are interested reach out to me and we can talk.
#19
Main Message Board / A/C install
May 02, 2022, 08:07:47 AM
Got the A/C installed and now I can retire :clap :clap :clap
Went with Flagship Marine because I wanted heat without using a heat pump.
It has resistive heat so I can have heat on the hard which the boat spends half the year on. 
Put it in the hanging locker by the chart table and used the macerator through hull as being on the great lakes
no overboard discharge.
Splashed boat in the snow 1 inch on the deck and got the boat up to 70 degrees.
Next weekend it was 85 degrees and had the boat down to 68 degrees.
It seems like a nice unit and it contains no printed circuit boards so will be easier to maintain.
have a great season all  :D
#20
"bump" Still available
#22
Main Message Board / Dana point
November 10, 2021, 04:07:41 PM
Any members at Dana Point, going out there and would love to get together for a drink and walk the docks?
#23
Main Message Board / End of another season
September 20, 2021, 12:54:34 PM
Pulled the boat today that nasty white stuff is just around the corner.
What to spend the time before that to install my a/c unit.
Hope all you warm weather sailors enjoy your extended season.
#24
I put a twin disk in and am very happy with the way it works. Did a write up of what it entails.
#25
Ok found most of my water coming down the rudder shaft. To control the water coming from there installed a second nylon washer under the emergency cap that was epoxied to the deck. This gives me a 1/4" lip so water does not run right down.
Also had a leak in the rear water tank. Lot of places for water to get there as you can not see in that area, leaks at rails, dash panel,lazarets, and pedestal. But found most of mine coming down the rudder shaft.
#26
I cleaned and ground the cracked area and applied 5 layers of biaxial glass with west system. Then poured a two part expanding foam into the areas and let it work. Came back the next day and ground sanded the foam down so the allow the water to run toward the bilge. This was covered with a few layers of fiberglass and sanded. Finished the project with bilge paint.
I believe that this may also cause some of the leaks people have gotten from the rudder post as it forms the back of the depression as it would be the thinnest fiberglass that the ice would push against.
This issue only really affects boats up north in freshwater.
The two part expanding foam was for, pour in floatation so I feel would be ok
Think this could be mentioned in the critical updates.


   
#27
This was done on the boat as part of the transmission replacement. As part of the replacement had to remove the shaft. So wanted to put a new bushing in the strut but found the strut eaten away from electrolysis. So this had me looking at the strut to replace. As taking the strut off, kept getting a drip of water in the area. This lead me to grind some more looking for the source. What I found, the heavy roving that forms the hull in that area is covered with a finish fiberglass cap that has nice squared edges something the roving could not do. there is voids that water was in dripping out where the strut come out of the hull. This led me inside the boat where I found the area you want to fill. Pictures of that area show the cracks i had in the bottom that the water was coming from. There is a second area behind the rudder post also. this area holds water also and would recommend filling also.
#28
Main Message Board / Re: Engine Mounts
March 06, 2021, 09:05:48 AM
When the mounts were replaced last year I went with a "lag/stud"
You can bed the lag part in some epoxy so it will not loosen and have machine nuts on the mount.
This gives me peace of mind when the motor has to come out in the future that the stringer holes won't get to loose
to hold.
#29
Main Message Board / Re: Sliding Panels
January 15, 2021, 05:15:50 AM
Quote from: glennd3 on January 13, 2021, 12:39:06 PM
Did you remove the teak trim ti install?

Quote from: kh3412 on January 13, 2021, 07:39:59 AM
Did my panel area with carbon fiber. The slider above is in carbon fiber also if the admiral approves will do the main sliders.
Glenn no did not remove the panels to install. Lift up and a little prying and they came out. made the new ones a tad shorter so they go in easier.
Quote from: waughoo on January 14, 2021, 07:05:43 PM
Quote from: kh3412 on January 13, 2021, 07:39:59 AM
Did my panel area with carbon fiber. The slider above is in carbon fiber also if the admiral approves will do the main sliders.

Another vote for this being slick!!  Is this a film?  I also noted that you did the same over the electrical panel backing board.  I might have to consider that!
This is carbon fiber panels laid up the one for the panels myself and bought the ones for the sliders from McMaster-carr. Don not have a mirror long enough to lay up the sliders so bought the sheet.
#30
Main Message Board / Re: Sliding Panels
January 13, 2021, 07:39:59 AM
Did my panel area with carbon fiber. The slider above is in carbon fiber also if the admiral approves will do the main sliders.