Messages

So we're talking about the nice chrome housings over the base of the uppers and lowers on each side?  Assuming their from Catalina.  Mine look nice still, but their a pain when tuning the mast.  Is the general consensus to get rid of them?  Serve no functional purpose?  Makes sense they harbour dirt, mildew, spiders, etc...and I guess if the cotter pins are properly bent, there's no risk of someone getting cut walking on the deck...my mast s coming down in a couple of weeks so timely discussion....

I found a like to the Catalina 320 Association website which talks about rigging the preventer from where the block for the mainsheet attaches to the boom (and then forward to the bow).  Seems like a sturdy attachment point.  Would this work, or should it be attached to the aft end of the boom?

Thanks Ron - that's what I had in mind - a splice.  Thought it would be easier than taking the boom apart.

I could not attach the new line to the end of the old like and pull it through?

Dave - this is exactly what it was.  A vertical cotter pin holding the boom to the gooseneck.  From the top the "hoop" of the pin looked fine.  From the bottom there was only one "tail" coming out.  The other half had sheared off inside the gooseneck.  Thanks.

I've been thinking about replacing the outhaul.  Can I use the old one to fish the new one through the boom (i'll use Ron's suggestion on material) or do I need to actually take the boom apart to get inside?

I figured it out - its the tail of one side of cotter pin holding the boom to the gooseneck!  (one side of the pin sheared off half-way along the pin).

Trip line aside, you can also use this technique to mark your anchor:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dvD7C3HukrM&t=63s

if you want something to break away (rather than for recovery) you can use lighter like.  I think the float with the block and the weight is brilliant.

Yep - thanks - already thought of that and temporarily disconnected the WH breaker to prevent any accidental turning on.

Ken - read the wiki - thanks - helpful.  Next question - even though the water heater is bypassed, it will still get hot while under engine - correct?  If so - any risk of it over-heating if there is no water in it?

Thanks.  Bypassing the heater is pretty easy - I've got easy access to it and simply connect the 'in' and 'out' hose with a male-to-male barb.  Takes only a minute or two...so I don't think I need to install something like this...but certainly would if the WH were not so accessible.

I'll have a look at the article.

Thanks Stu, Ken...
...I'll try and find the wiki article.

Thanks.  So just to be clear - I'll be okay since the input and output hose of the water heater are connected?  Its now a closed loop. 

Now that I've bypassed the heater, no leaks and no occasional (but brief) running of the pump. 

Just want to be sure no problem motoring.

Hi - I've got a slow leak in my freshwater system - every once and a while the water pump comes on and the bilge is slowly (very slowly) filling with clean water (like an inch a week).  I've been able to isolate the problem to the hot water tank.  For the time being I've bypassed the hot water tank - connecting the input hose and output hose (the way I would do when winterizing the engine.  Leak seems to have stopped.

My question - is it safe to motor with the hot water tank bypassed?  I am thinking it is, but I seem to recall something about the raw water which cools the engine coolant also passes through (around?) the hot water tank - that is how I get hot water when motoring I think.

Is it safe to motor with the hot water tank bypassed (well - safe except for the frustration of my wife not having hot water)?

Thanks in advance.

The foam around the outside of my air filter has long since disintegrated.  A friend told me it did not serve much purpose.  I saw the earlier posts around getting some fabric from a fabric store (rather than sourcing one from Universal).

Question - is this piece of foam around the outside necessary?  Also - is there a danger with flash-point of the fabric?  Thinking some fabrics might catch fire if the temperature in the engine compartment gets too high (and/or if there is any oil on the cloth).

Thoughts?