Messages

Does anyone know how the hull is built?  Assuming there is a core.  What material?  How many layers of glass?  Mine is a 34 Mk II - hull 1494 built in 2000.


Thanks in advance.

I did this a few months back...used 5/16 - works great - but don't see why 7/16 would not fit.

I would recommend all three.  I've got a mast-head antenna and would not use anything else.  My old VHF was fried in an electrical storm a few years back and I replaced it with a Standard Horizon VHF Matrix AIS/GPS GX2200.  I sail on the great lakes (sometimes at night) and like the AIS.  I've got a RAM mic at the helm.  I've also got a hand-held as a backup...

...but a handheld as a primary is certainly an inexpensive way to go...limited range and you don't to find you're out of battery in an emergency situation.

Hope it helps.

Geo : I've stored the boat with the mast up for almost 30 years with no problems.

FYI, when the boat is on jack-stands or in its cradle; there should be 75% of its weight on the keel and only 25% of its weight on the jack-stands.
The jack-stands should be positioned at bulkheads to maximize support!!

I can't believe there is any strain on the standing rigging with no sails up???  The only advantage that I know of with the mast down is the lack of wear on the wind instrument (can be locked to not turn) - otherwise it is always turning with the mast UP!!

A few thoughts

Ron - I've got a good cradle - and yes - the weight is on the keel and the cradle pads.  My point was when the wind blows, there is windage on the mast.  When in the water the boat can heel.  On the hard it can't...which caused me concern about stress on the chain-plates and deck....thats all.  Not sure if it was something I should be concerned about.

I like the Beckson on the shower seat.  Does it just facilitate access to the space below?  I can get in there thru the door under the head sink, but this looks WAY easier.

Hi - for those of us in cold climates who need to haul out for the winter...I've been wondering about storing the boat mast up or down.  I've heard arguments both ways.

Some say mast up is hard on the standing rigging...when the wind blows, the windage normally would cause the boat to rock (in the water).  on the cradle it stresses the standing rigging (although not sure how much different then strong gusts would be when heading up wind).

Mast down takes time - and can damage things if mistakes are made - but no windage on the mast.   But it allows you to inspect the rigging (up close) and replace things if needed (without having to climb the mast).

Thoughts?

I've got hull 1494 (Year 2000).  I have a forward (25 US gal.) and aft tank (42 US gal.).  Both are on the centerline.  I keep the forward tank empty and only use the aft tank.  I don't keep the aft tank full (I fill it as I need to).  I find with the forward tank empty, the boat tends to handle better.

Hope this helps.

...sorry - I should have mentioned that I also have a M-35B.

Sounds like your tach is off.  My tach is off...as other have suggested, I used a laser hand-held tach.  When my tach reads 1100, the laser read just about 1600.  I've got a Gori 15x9 RH folding prop which has an over-drive feature.  When over-drive is engaged, I can do close to 7 knots at about 2000 RPM (again - tach is off, so this is an estimate).  If you're thinking about a prop replacement, I'd recommend the Gori.

Hope this helps.

Jim - that looks amazing.  I've been thinking about doing this for some time.  Are there 'battens' going horizontally across the shade to give it some shape?   

Never had to do it, but if I did sink to head and back is one way.  I might be inclined to go from the sink thru the back of the bilge - past the holding tank following the sanitary tube (behind the head) and then along the port side of the boat (under the cockpit locker) assuming your 1998 layout is the same as my 2000.

Geo : Have you looked at exhaust hose? Shields makes some that is wire reinforced with an ID of 1 1/8".

A thought

Ron - good thought - thanks.  I've been doing more digging.  Catalina Direct shows the hose I need for a M-25 being 7/8" ID and 7" long.  They do not list the part for the M-35. When I called Catalina Direct, they tolf me the hose is 1 1/8" ID.   I got in touch with Westerbeke and they say (backed up by a technical diagram) that I need 7/8" ID and 8" long.  So appears contrary to what tech support at Catalina Direct has told me.  Seeing if I can source some 7/8" ID hose locally...although I would not have believed it is 7/8" ID since the OD is about 1 1/2".  Once I get this solved, I'll contribute a wiki article on the subject...

As far as electric winch handles go, have you checked out eWincher: https://www.ewincher.com/en/  Expensive, but seems to do the job.  Might be cheaper in the long run than installing electric winches and less to worry about as far as on-board power management goes.

Geoffrey,
I'm standing in my boat looking at the hose is question now. I measured the OD as 1 3/8" so you're measurement of 1 1/2" isn't far off. The hose I used when I replaced the coolant lines a couple of years ago is Trident #100 0780 7/8" diameter. There's an SAE mark on it but it's smudged and I can't make it out. SAE J??06.
I have an M35A, not the M35B that you have but I highly doubt there would have been a change in hose size here.
Should be easy but nothing's easy on a boat!   

Dave - thanks.  Sounds like we're talking about the same thing.  Catalina does not seem to stock a hose described as "Manifold to Thermostat" for the M-35B (but the do for other engines).  I called Catalina tech support and they explained they are only starting to supply replacement hoses.  They said the ID on my hose is 1 1/8".  My local engine parts supplier (biggest in Toronto) does not even stock 1 1/8" since its so rarely used.  Catalina Direct DOES stock a 1 1/8" hose described as "Manifold to Heat Exchanger" (Part #: Z5049).  Wondering if that might work.  I'll certainly take Ron's suggestion and call Westerbeke.

Geo : From the illustration it looks like that is a wire reinforced or a pre formed hose.  You might give Westerbeke a call @ 508-823-7677

Why are you replacing that hose ?

A thought

Ron - that's it - looks like a pre-formed wire-reinforced hose.  Its painted so I can't read any specs on the outside.  Reason I thought to replace it is it's looking brittle around the hose clamps - looks like some cracks - but it could be the paint cracking.  I am nervous to remove it to inspect it in case I can't get it back on and not get a replacement.  Good suggestion - I'll try Westerbeke.