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I haven't on this issue. I'll  take a look but please post any links that you think are appropriate.

Thanks Stu.

Paul

Here's an (untidy) pic of our Electrical panel by the Nav Table.

Here's a google draw imagine sketch.

Eric, you grasp my situation.

When the panel is leant down on the hinge, access to the hole is nearly impossible, and the thought of trying to clean up using terminal strips or Din rail system is painful.

Terminal strips are simple and elegant, Din rail system is a little more complex but easier to wire simply because there's no need for terminal ends to each wire,they are just clamped into the Din terminals.

My thoughts are to remove each wire from the panel one at a time labeling them as I go. Then remove the panel completely and rework it's attachment method. Something that would allow it to be pulled away from the framework. It would require that the looms from the panel to the terminals would need to be long enough to pull the panel out once the wiring is reattached.

Working on the concept.

Paul

I've reached the stage where I can no longer relax knowing that the electrical panel wiring is such a nightmare on Eximius.

I'm planning a complete rewire of the circuit breaker panel and checking each wire to it's destination for quality - many of them have several butt joints and multi color changes as well as wire sizes.

So I'm looking for ideas on how to make it look nice as well as be reliable.

One thing I'm thinking of is to remove the hinge that holds the circuit breaker panel in place so that it can be pulled away from the 'hole'. That would improve access to the 'hole'. Looking at cleaning up the bulkhead and installing terminal blocks for all the inbound wiring and then run looms from the terminal blocks to the panel.

Just wondering what the inside of the hole looks like on other boats. Got any pics?

Just a thought, when I rebuilt the engine exhaust system I had to repair the fiberglass muffler where the engine exhaust connects to it. So I also added the silicone hose with a bump in it to reduce the vibration at the connection.

Ron, good point.

We check the "Heart Beat" every 10 mins or less, and upon start up we also check the water  from the exhaust.

Re Electronic Option. I have considered that too, always liked the idea of having engine data display at the Nav Station. It would also allow engine data to display at the helm.

When Ken assisted me with knowledge about rebuilding our Engine Harness, I also installed all new instruments and screamers. At that time I put a switch in the engine panel lighting system so that we could turn the lights off during the day (the old lights had burnt the panell)

Paul

I stapled a piece of phifertex on the underside of the table lid, that's were we keep our chart books.

Made a holder (more phifertex) to snap on the inside of the hanging locker, that's where we keep the flashlights.

Made another holder for inside the bathroom cabinet door, that's where we keep the tools needed to disconnect the Raw Water input hose from the thru hull in order to clear anything that clogs the thru hull.

Anther holder for pens and pencils is secured to the aft facing surface of the bulkhead above the nav table.

The rest of the nav stuff (Dividers, Parallel Rule, Compass Rose, SSB HF Receiver, odds and ends)  gets tossed in the nav table, nothing as neat as yours but that gives some great ideas. Thanks.

Here's the cleaned up link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EHIFE4/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_8dejFbRJRXW45

Method: Fill with Distilled Water and replace the cap
Push nozel into open battery port and press down using the handle
Filler will dispense water until it reaches the tip of the nozel - for my batteries, that's full up to the lower edge of the battery filler port barrier.
Lift dispense, water is shut off, no drips.

Repeat for the other cells.

Paul

Patches, thanks for that description.

Sillycone was a favorite tool for one of the previous boat owners, I think they had shares in the Co.

The boot is failing, we could see a pin prick size hole from inside the cabin and other patches of near daylight. From the outside it's looking very weak and would tear at the slightest touch, so we don't.

I installed 4 x 6v Trojan 105's just a few months ago, they were price beaters, from Batteries and Bulbs +

I check the fluid levels at least every two weeks, barely have to add much, maybe less than 1/2cup of DW perhaps once a month.

I ignored our previous batteries for a few months, dumb, they evaporated too much water and only lasted 3.5 years.

This is the device I use to top up the batteries now, it's brilliant!

:claphttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EHIFE4/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_y0VgFb8Z84XVT

That item is actually better than the one I have, mine does not have the separate filler cap, the linked one does.

here's my battery install https://www.sailingeximius.com/2020/03/time-for-new-batteries-again.html

Paul

If you run the engine at those rpm while at the dock, the exhaust will be easier to see and examine.

Ours runs clean, no smoke or steam, at 2000 rpm (max of 2100 rpm on ours) but if we rapidly change engine speed then we get dirty grot blowing out.


We replaced the injectors and tubes last year and had the injector pump rebuilt at the same time.

Paul

Ron, we have 5 or 6 wooden wedges in place, difficult to see from below.

I was asking for pics so that I could see what the top edge of the cabin mast hole looks like and how the collar is attached, our collar has a couple of tubes of Silly cone applied by the PO.

Anyone got pics of the Mast collar without the boot in place?

I'm considering Spartite (yes, read all of the posts on the subject) but want to see what the partners look like. I saw Stu's pic of the partners filled with rope and silicone but wonder if anyone has clearer pics showing views of the mast in the partners without the boot etc.

Our single piece boot is deteriorating and have no plans to pull the mast for at least a year.

TIA.

Paul

It's a Mercury 8' our Outboard is a Mercury 4hp - love it.


:)