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Messages - britinusa

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 65
Main Message Board / Re: Reverse Polarity Indicator Wiring
« on: October 16, 2020, 03:06:47 PM »
Sorry, I should have labeled both indicators. (and spelt Neutral correctly  :D )

The second (top, unlabeled) LED just shows that Shore Power is available before making the AC Main Switch.

If the Neutral line is HOT then the Reverse Polarity Warning Lamp would illuminate.

If the RP  Warning lamp is not illuminated, then a quick press of the spring loaded Lamp Test Switch will illuminate the lamp (because it connects the lamp to the correctly HOT line and Earth.)

Main Message Board / Reverse Polarity Indicator Wiring
« on: October 16, 2020, 07:52:05 AM »
Yes, I searched for this issue, mine is a bit unique.

Our boat (1987 Mk 1) had a new electrical panel or update around 2006 looking at the documentation that came with the boat (I'm at least the 3rd owner).

Over the years, the wiring behind the panel has turned into spaghetti junction, the wire terminals are awful, AC connections are Wirenuts, Circuit breakers have as many as 4 terminals connected on the switched side, there are more butt connections than I have ever seen on a boat. Wire colors and sizes are not either consistent or appropriate and labels - electrical tape that may have something written in crayola years ago.

As I prepare for a major update on the wiring behind the panel, I inspected the AC breakers and in particular, the Reverse Polarity Indicator. The attached photo shows the R.P. Test Switch and lamp, note the empty switch tab. The attached diagram shows what I believe is the correct wiring for the Reverse Polarity Indicator system. (the red wire is the one I believe is missing).

I know that I can purchase a Reverse Polarity Plug to test the shore power at any dock we plug into, but the existing system has the facility, it's just that it doesn't work (at least, I can't see how it works)

Any suggestions? Note. We do have a Galvanic Isolator installed between the Shore Power boat side plug and before a Zantrex Freedom 20 Inverter Charger.



Main Message Board / Re: How Much water do you sail with
« on: October 01, 2020, 03:19:36 PM »
Our trips are always two days minimum, mostly 4days, many longer. We spent nearly a month cruising over to the Abacos (Bahamas) and back.

We carried full Midships and Aft tank plus 24gallons in external water containers (4x6 gallon blue water jugs)

We blew out a hose fitting when the water pump was on, that got rid of all the water in the remaining tank, we went through the 24gallons pretty quickly and topped up from a local, another 12gallons.  We were able to fill all tanks the night before we left the Bahamas headed back to Lake Worth (Anchor) and then Home. We got back to our dock with enough water for a few more days.

We refresh our water tanks every couple of weeks adding 1 cap full of chlorine to each of the boat tanks.

We also have 3 carbon filters in the fresh water system as well as UV lamp for the final preparation of water from the Drinking water faucet.

Just in case anything gets grotty, we carry water tank treatments and 2 sets of new filters.

Hope that helps.


Main Message Board / Removing the Nav Table
« on: September 17, 2020, 07:36:52 AM »
Prepping for my rewire of the electrical panel, I recognize that it might be easier if the Nav table was moved out of the way for the project.

Anyone done that (removed the nav table) that can give any 'be careful' hints.
OR - don't botther, moving it doesn't help.



Main Message Board / Re: Shore power electrical shock
« on: September 14, 2020, 07:09:30 AM »
Agreed with above - disconnect the power!

Almost certainly there's a connection below deck to the stanchion. Start there with mk1 eyeballs.


I haven't on this issue. I'll  take a look but please post any links that you think are appropriate.

Thanks Stu.


Here's an (untidy) pic of our Electrical panel by the Nav Table.

Here's a google draw imagine sketch.

Eric, you grasp my situation.

When the panel is leant down on the hinge, access to the hole is nearly impossible, and the thought of trying to clean up using terminal strips or Din rail system is painful.

Terminal strips are simple and elegant, Din rail system is a little more complex but easier to wire simply because there's no need for terminal ends to each wire,they are just clamped into the Din terminals.

My thoughts are to remove each wire from the panel one at a time labeling them as I go. Then remove the panel completely and rework it's attachment method. Something that would allow it to be pulled away from the framework. It would require that the looms from the panel to the terminals would need to be long enough to pull the panel out once the wiring is reattached.

Working on the concept.


I've reached the stage where I can no longer relax knowing that the electrical panel wiring is such a nightmare on Eximius.

I'm planning a complete rewire of the circuit breaker panel and checking each wire to it's destination for quality - many of them have several butt joints and multi color changes as well as wire sizes.

So I'm looking for ideas on how to make it look nice as well as be reliable.

One thing I'm thinking of is to remove the hinge that holds the circuit breaker panel in place so that it can be pulled away from the 'hole'. That would improve access to the 'hole'. Looking at cleaning up the bulkhead and installing terminal blocks for all the inbound wiring and then run looms from the terminal blocks to the panel.

Just wondering what the inside of the hole looks like on other boats. Got any pics?

Main Message Board / Re: Just overheated the engine
« on: August 09, 2020, 09:07:12 AM »
Just a thought, when I rebuilt the engine exhaust system I had to repair the fiberglass muffler where the engine exhaust connects to it. So I also added the silicone hose with a bump in it to reduce the vibration at the connection.

Main Message Board / Re: dual engine guages
« on: August 09, 2020, 08:30:18 AM »
Ron, good point.

We check the "Heart Beat" every 10 mins or less, and upon start up we also check the water  from the exhaust.

Re Electronic Option. I have considered that too, always liked the idea of having engine data display at the Nav Station. It would also allow engine data to display at the helm.

When Ken assisted me with knowledge about rebuilding our Engine Harness, I also installed all new instruments and screamers. At that time I put a switch in the engine panel lighting system so that we could turn the lights off during the day (the old lights had burnt the panell)


Main Message Board / Re: What’s in your chartable?
« on: August 01, 2020, 07:15:18 AM »
I stapled a piece of phifertex on the underside of the table lid, that's were we keep our chart books.

Made a holder (more phifertex) to snap on the inside of the hanging locker, that's where we keep the flashlights.

Made another holder for inside the bathroom cabinet door, that's where we keep the tools needed to disconnect the Raw Water input hose from the thru hull in order to clear anything that clogs the thru hull.

Anther holder for pens and pencils is secured to the aft facing surface of the bulkhead above the nav table.

The rest of the nav stuff (Dividers, Parallel Rule, Compass Rose, SSB HF Receiver, odds and ends)  gets tossed in the nav table, nothing as neat as yours but that gives some great ideas. Thanks.

Main Message Board / Re: Trojan Vs US Battery
« on: July 31, 2020, 09:07:28 AM »
Here's the cleaned up link:

Method: Fill with Distilled Water and replace the cap
Push nozel into open battery port and press down using the handle
Filler will dispense water until it reaches the tip of the nozel - for my batteries, that's full up to the lower edge of the battery filler port barrier.
Lift dispense, water is shut off, no drips.

Repeat for the other cells.


Main Message Board / Re: Mast collar and Partners pics
« on: July 28, 2020, 01:45:19 PM »
Patches, thanks for that description.

Sillycone was a favorite tool for one of the previous boat owners, I think they had shares in the Co.

The boot is failing, we could see a pin prick size hole from inside the cabin and other patches of near daylight. From the outside it's looking very weak and would tear at the slightest touch, so we don't.

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