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Topics - britinusa

#101
Main Message Board / Short Cord - Generator to Boat
January 20, 2016, 10:58:38 AM
Now that I'm retired, the 'Honey Do it on the boat' is under attack.

Today I made the short cord for connecting our Honda Generator to the Boat's Shore power receptacle.

(there's a bigger pic on my http://www.sailingeximius.com Blog.


Thanks Ken, the connector worked out great!

Paul
#102
Main Message Board / Primary Fuel Filter change out
December 28, 2015, 08:43:58 AM
Time to do another oil change and while at it I intend to change out the Racor Fuel Filter system. (I've had the new one sitting ready to do the change out for a while, it's time.)

I have read dozens of threads and pages on Bleeding the system after a fuel filter change, the site here has plenty to read on the subject.

As I'm changing out the filter assembly, pretty sure I'll need to bleed the fuel lines.

Putting all that I have read into place, how does this sound for the replacement process.

  • Shut off the Fuel cock at the top of the tank
  • Slacken the Racor Fuel Filter
  • Coffee can used to catch any spillage
  • Remove the Filter - Discard
  • Remove the supply line (in) to the old Filter Assembly
  • Remove the delivery line (out) from the old Filter Assembly
  • Unmount the old Filter Assembly
  • Add an inline shut off cock to the supply line (in) to make it easier for future filter changes
  • Mount the new Filter Assembly
  • Connect the fuel line from the new shut off cock to the filter supply (in)
  • Connect the fuel delivery (out) line to the new Filter Assembly
  • Put new filter in coffee can and fill the filter with Injector cleaner
  • Pour some Injector cleaner into the new Filter
  • Install new filter into the new Filter Assembly
  • Hand tighten filter to Filter Assembly
  • Open fuel shut off cock on top of tank
  • Open new fuel shut off cock by Racor Filter
  • Turn on Engine Ignition (and Cabin Engine master switch)
  • Electric fuel pump should be running
  • Open bleed valve on top of new Filter Assembly
  • Wait max of 30 seconds for air to escape (take a break for another 30 seconds before retrying)
  • Once air is bled from Fuel Filter - Close off Filter Bleed screw
  • Turn Ignition switch off
  • Get access to Fuel Injector Pump Bleed Screw (engine stbd side)
  • Crack the screw open
  • Turn Ignition switch on
  • Watch for steady flow of fuel from Fuel Injector Pump Bleed Screw
  • Once stead flow, close the bleed screw
  • Let pump run until click rate subsides - all air should now be out of the limes and returned to the fuel tank.
  • Turn off Ignition
  • Proceed with the Engine Start process

Did I miss anything or doing anything unnecessary?

Paul
#103
Main Message Board / Installing AIS
December 23, 2015, 12:38:57 PM
Santa is a really close friend of mine and he's dropping off a Garmin AIS this afternoon!

Should be an easy install.

We already have a Garmin 700 series GPS, Garmin Radar, and a Wireless Garmin Wind Transducer at the Mast head all connected via a Garmin NMEA 2000 Network.

The install should be as simple as:

  • Install the AIS in the Radio bay above the port side Cabin Locker next to the Nav Station
  • Disconnect the VHF Antenna from the VHF Radio
  • Connect the VHF Antenna to the AIS Unit
  • Connect the VHF Radio to the AIS Unit with the included Antenna Interconnect Cable
  • Connect the AIS to the NMEA 2000 Back bone with a drop cable and new T connector
  • Connect the AIS to 12v Power (Spare DC Circuit Breaker in Electrical Panel
  • Turn it on

I'll take pics and post them. (while I'm also taking pics of our Furling Line setup)

Paul
#104
Main Message Board / Jib Furling Line Route
December 14, 2015, 07:30:15 AM
Furling the Jib in on Eximius is a pain!

It seems to take a huge effort (and I've been working out) and I'm not sure why, it's a comparatively new furler.

The furling line runs from the drum, down the port side through a some blocks on stanchions aft past the port winch to a block on the lower end of the pushpit tubing, then past it's cleat and to the winch drum.

The last block (on the pushpit) seems to have no purpose other than redirect the line towards the winch, and it does that at a bad angle, I fight overrides every time.

I wondered if I moved that black to the stanchion just forward of the winch if it would reduce the friction?

Not sure if the line routing is typical or the best.

Any ideas?

Thanks.
Paul
#105
With the main off and the need to inspect the out haul, I took the boom off.

As mentioned before, the Gooseneck Casting Assembly has a crack and I ordered front and back castings from CD.

A bit of a challenge taking the castings off, but once off I could see the gooseneck has not been upgraded. Strike that one off the critical list - the new casting has the upgrade.

The out haul line is most likely the original, it's pretty torn up. I'm going to replace it and add a sheave to increase the ratio, but was wondering if it's worth putting a length of PVC piping inside the boom so that the out haul tackle does not abrade against the inside of the boom?

Paul
#106
Main Message Board / Topping lift snagging sail roach
December 06, 2015, 06:00:28 PM
question, regarding new sails:

Is it 'normal' for the topping lift to snag the roach of our sails on the C34 Tall rig?


Thanks.

Paul
#107
Main Message Board / Gooseneck boom end fitting split
December 03, 2015, 07:53:26 AM
While removing the sails in prep for the new sails install yesterday, I noticed this on the mast end of the boom fitting.

Note the crack in the hex shaped fitting.

I plan on removing the boom, cleaning up both front and back end plate assemblies, replacing the outhaul (original) and taking care of the split hex fitting.

What's the hex fitting called? Anyone know where to get one?

Thanks.

Paul


#108
Main Message Board / Interloper wishes for Thanksgiving
November 25, 2015, 04:00:45 PM
Here's wishing you all a Happy Thanksgiving

Paul - the interloper.

Brit In USA

:)

#109
Now that the Air conditioning is installed an working great, next project is a 3 stage water filtration system.

Expensive, but SWMBO is happy that we have a good filter system installed.

Twin cartidge (Sediment and Carbon) with UV treatment built in.

Installed the spigot in the forward stbd corner of the sink and the filter system behind the galley draw unit beneath the counter.

I had to reduce the fore/aft length of the drawers and drawer unit to allow for the filter system, but they're still plenty large enough for the typical stuff we store.

The power for the UV lamp comes from the Water Pump wiring where the pressure switch turns the pump (and lamp) on when a faucet is opened.

The plumbing uses compression fittings, so I included enough slack in the pipes to keep the strain off the fittings.

I'm in the process of replacing the wires from the DC panel to the pump as I figure the pump and lamp will draw 8 amps. Not going skinny on the wire.

It will also be the first job I have done where I have the new Brother Label printer and clear heat shrink as per Mainesail's info. Plan is to upgrade the electrical connections as I work on them.

Should have it finished on Friday.

Pics on my Blog

Paul
#110
Main Message Board / Galley Sink Drains
November 22, 2015, 03:25:06 AM
Jon. W posted a great ToDo list on another thread.

We purchased Eximius (then called Chris Deke) in May of this year 2015 and have been working on improvements, your list is really on the mark.

Jon noted in Phase 2:
Quote7. DONE. Replaced galley sink drain fittings and check valves with angled exit port style from Defender.

Can you elaborate on that Jon? I have to rework the galley sink plumbing as I'm installing a water filter and right now the galley sinks drain really slow (I do have a new Marleon Shut off valve attached to the thru-hull).

Quote8. DONE. Added strainer to shower sump drain, new Jabsco check valve, and attached head water sanitizer to bulkhead.

Ditto on #8

FYI, our twin Propane tanks are mounted on the Stbd stern rail, one tube is the live tank the other is a spare. We don't have a grill yet, so no need to carry the lil green cans, but I would consider adding a third tube to carry them if needed.

I installed a NEMA 2000 network, so now we have Garmin Radar, GPS, and the wireless Wind transducer, left to install is the water speed/depth/temp transducer which will be mounted in the V-berth when we next pull the boat.

Paul
#111
Getting close to completing the A/C installation. We have Cool!

According to all that I have read, the unit will produce about 1/2 Gallon of condensate per hour.

But how to eliminate the condensate?

Some just let it go into the bilge and let the bilge pump take care of it. I prefer to keep our bilge dry.

Some have a venturi to suck it out with the A/C discharge water. Worried that that might cause a continuing slurping noise.

Some have it drain into a Shower Sump Drain system with Pump and float switch to auto empty the sump.


So I figure a 5 gallon condensate tank would suffice for overnight.

I was considering making a tank to hold 5 gallons, putting in a bilge pump with a manual switch. The routing the discharge via a check valve into a T on the A/C water supply line just before the water strainer.

If the A/C were running, there would be a partial vacuum at the T so the check valve would be prevent back flow if the A/C was off.

We would just have to flip the switch for a minute and the 5 gallons (max) would be sucked out of the tank and pumped into the supply line to be discharged with the A/C discharge flow.

Am I making this too complex?

Paul
#112
Quote

Ken, what did you use to get the area around the back of the engine to look so.... so... well ... spik-n-span ?

Paul
#113
Main Message Board / loose foot or not?
November 01, 2015, 04:03:09 PM
We had a loft rep come to the boat today to measure up for new sails for Eximius.

He said that most sailors are moving towards Loose footed sails.

Then when he saw the reef blocks on the stbd side of the boom, he suggested that we should go with the bolt rope in boom sail.

Then I mentioned that we wanted the zipup type sail cover and he moved back to the idea of loose footed sail.

Loose or bolt in the boom?

Paul
#114
Main Message Board / Thru Hulls above the water line
October 29, 2015, 12:54:21 PM
I have read Maine's excellent article about installing thru hulls and watched a dozen utube how toos and they all seem to say the same except one.

The backing plate should be thru bolted from outside the hull.

But what about above the waterline thru-hulls?

On Eximius, none of the thru hulls (above or below the waterline) appear to have shut off valves that are bolted to a backing plate, they all appear to be just screwed onto the threaded part of the thru hull itself, although there appears to be a retaining nut on the inside of the hull that is either glassed in or is sealed with something like 3M 5200 (guessing)

So the thru hull from the Anchor locker looks the same as the engine intake thru hull, or pretty close.

I have to cut a new thru hull into the side of the V-berth about the same height as the anchor locker thru hull.

Not too happy about drilling 4 holes through the hull, one for the thru hull and 3 for the bolts for the sea cock.

So I was thinking about following Maines process except not drilling the 3 holes through the hull.

Then, with the bolts in place in the backing plate, gluing the plate in place.

When cured, mount the sea cock onto the backing plate and screw the thru hull into place with sealant around the flange and outside most threads.

Am I way out on this one?

Any links to show how to do this would be welcomed, as always  :D

Thanks.

Paul
#115
Main Message Board / Air Conditioning Circuit Breaker
October 27, 2015, 12:23:48 PM
My new (nearly installed) Dometic AC unit requires a circuit breaker with max of 25amps.

I'm thinking of using the 'AC Aux' but it's only a 15amp breaker.

Anyone know if this is the correct 25amp breaker to fit?

http://amzn.com/B004XS6WN4

Thanks.

Paul
#116
Thought you might like to see the final result of my new Helm Nav Station.



The rest are on my bloghttp://www.sailingeximius.com

Paul
#117
Main Message Board / AC Install in Mk 1 C34
October 16, 2015, 06:38:33 AM
Step 1 (after figuring everything out - at least I hope I have it figured out)
Install Shelf under V-Berth for the AC Unit.

Shelf location marked up and light sanding.


Plywood supports 5200'd in place (It's a glue!)

Made the Shelf templates from pieces of cardboard laid out on the supports, numbered and marked up.

Make shelf at home. (next)





#118
After figuring out that the reason my engine temperature gauge reads low is because the engine is running cool due to an open thermostat, it was a surprise when the engine started to get hot during our shake down cruise.

Quick look over the side and no water pumping out! White smoke (steam) puffing out and disappearing quickly.

Shut off the engine.

Inspected the old raw water filter and it was pretty full of grass. Cleaned it out, ran the engine, no better.

Inspected the water pump impeller (recently replaced with the new water pump) - looked and felt fine.

Removed the hose off the raw water shut off valve, opened the valve, water barely trickled out. - Blocked through hull.

Confirmed problem by putting the raw water hose into a gallon jug of fresh water, ran the engine, it sucked it out in about a minute.

Poked a long plastic tie wrap down the open valve, but it would barely go down, and made no difference in the trickle.

Removed the hose from the shower sump shut off valve, opened the valve and water poured out - OK, got a source for the engine water.

10 mins work and had reworked the hose connections to move the engine hose to the shower sump shut off valve.

Ran the engine, pumping really well, temp stay normal (low) Life is good.

Later I reworked the shower sump hose to connect to the original engine raw water shut off valve and tested the shower sump pump, worked fine. I'll check the original raw water shut off valve and through hull at the next haul out, which will be sooner rather than later.


The Back story!
It's only because the great advice given on this forum and in the tech notes that I knew how to deal with this issue.

Kudos to all contributors.

The full story is on my blog http://www.sailingeximius.com

Paul
#119
Main Message Board / International MMSI & Boat Capacity
September 21, 2015, 04:51:49 AM
We're in the process of getting an MMSI number, and as we intend to sail Eximius outside of the USA, we have to go through the process.

First step is to get a FRN (FCC Registration Number)

Next is FCC 605 Schedule B.

We have to report the Capacity of the Boat. (Max Number of souls onboard)

I have not seen anywhere where Catalina states that number.

Several members have reported carrying more than 10 people on their boats, but what is the official max capacity?

Anyone know the answer?

Thanks.

Paul
#120
Main Message Board / Heat Exchanger Zinc Change out
September 09, 2015, 08:29:07 AM
Reading lots of info about changing the Heat Exchanger Zinc, but unable to find anything that indicates if much water is going to come out of the heat exchanger and if there is any need to bleed the system after?

I can see where the zinc is located. It's on the underside of the Heat Exchanger.

I understand that it's raw sea water that will come out, but how much? I presume the Raw Water shut off should be closed when removing the zinc.

Paul
#121
Main Message Board / Installing Garmin gWind System
September 03, 2015, 07:58:39 AM
Task: Install Garmin gWind Wireless Transducer at the mast head, install WSI, GND10 and GMI20 instrument at the helm, install Garmin NMEA 2000 network to connect everything to the Garmin GPS 741xs

Step 1: Make sure I have everything I need.
Did that. I built the system from all the components at home so I'm certain I have the bit and pieces needed.

Step 2: Test the system on the boat.
Basically I'm going to rebuild the system on the boat with the gWind transducer on the deck (after letting it charge up in the Sun)

Step 3: Mount the gWind Transducer on the mast head.
This will be the first time I've been up the mast. So not sure what I'm going to find.

Found this pic in the forum


Is that what I can expect at the masthead - a sheet of plastic?

I have to secure the transducer mounting plate on the masthead facing forwards.
FYI, the wireless transducer is quite large! The 'pole' is about 18" long.

Any suggestions on how to attach the mounting bracket to the masthead?

Thanks.

Paul
#122
Main Message Board / Transom - solid or cored?
August 31, 2015, 07:59:44 AM
I'm about to install an extra step on the transom between the top step of the folding ladder and the top of the transom.

(I need to get the appropriate length bolts)

Anyone know the approximate thickness of the transom in that area and whether it's solid or cored?
(I need to know if I have to drill/cleanout/resin/redrill/countersink or just drill & countersink in order to estimate the time it will take.)

Thanks.

Paul
#123
Main Message Board / Regular Maintenance Schedule
August 25, 2015, 08:37:10 AM
I have spent literally hours reading the great posts on the forum and teck wiki, and it's a bit overwhelming, I guess that's the side effect of 30 years of info.

I checked my main batteries on Sunday afternoon, no visible electrolyte in any of the 4 x 6v batteries, the single 12v Starter battery was fine.

This event lead me to start building my own Regular Maintenance schedule.

I'm thinking that the 'Before casting off', 'After engine shutdown', Daily, Weekly, Monthly 3 month, 6 month and Annual projects is the way to go.

But I'm wondering (again) if the forum/wiki has already got something. I've read through the Critical upgrades (and most of the many posts that start there).

This could turn into a huge thread, so I hope we can just point to existing notes on schedules for now. I'll type up a growing schedule and put it in the wiki as I make progress.

Thanks.

Paul

#124
Main Message Board / 110v Wiring - correct wire?
August 22, 2015, 01:17:51 PM
Anyone got a link to the correct type of 110v wire to use on the boat?

I'm working up my Air Conditioning install.

I know that multi strand tinned wire is standard for 12v applications on the boat, but what type of cable is correct for 110v wiring?

Thanks.

paul
#125
Main Message Board / Head faucet hose fell off
August 17, 2015, 01:05:42 PM
It was a fun weekend, really!

Also, this weekend, the cold water hose to the head faucet fell off. It took several minutes to figure out why the bilge pump kept cycling.
During that time, it emptied about 20 gallons of water in the bilge. At least I know the pump works great!

The water pressure pump was running continuously, I figured it was because of the empty tank. So I closed of the midships tank and opened the aft tank valve under the galley cupboard.  As soon as the pump was turned on, I could hear water flowing in the head undersink cupboard, could not see where it was coming from. The hose had fell off the cold water pipe to the faucet and was hidden behind the other pipes. All I could see was the water jetting up to the top of the inside of the head cupboard. In the time it took to find where the water was coming from, it now emptied 20 gallons from the aft tank (it does hold 25 gallons right?)

So now we were stuck with a non-functioning head (hold tank flooded) and very little fresh water.

As I said, a fun weekend!

Is it normal for the tube to the faucets to have a single hose clamp?

Paul
#126
Main Message Board / Holding tank flood
August 17, 2015, 12:53:20 PM
In my opinion, the holding tank flooded this past week.

Scenario: We emptied the tank in the last couple of weeks 3 miles out.

The waste cap on the deck port side was sealed shut and the only way to remove the cap was to break it.

Didn't realize it on the last trip, but my first attempt to remove it left a hole in the cap indent. We had some heavy rains this past week and I think that the deck water ran down that hole and flooded the holding tank.

The result was that toilet back fed from the tank past the joker valve (new) into the toilet bowl. If we pumped it out, it would fill back in about 15 minutes.
The level held just below the rim of the toilet.

I was able to get the rest of the waste cap removed and install a new cap. Then we visited a local city pumpout and cleaned out as much as we could.

I'm wondering if the vent is blocked as I thought that pumping head contents back into the tank might push the flooded tank contents up towards the vent on the port side. But it did not (phew, that would have been messy) Not sure how to test if the vent is working correctly.

On Eximius, the vent is a hole about 1/2" diameter on the inside of the port stanchion, it has a plastic hinged cover tapped over it, I'm guessing to keep water out)

This is really just a heads up (pun intended) to make sure that the waste pump out cap is effectively closing the waste pipe.

But if anyone knows the correct size pump out adapter, plesea let me know! The city pump out stations (free) do not have the adapters.

Paul

#127
Main Message Board / Engine gauges
August 02, 2015, 12:05:24 PM
After enjoying a few hours sailing in the Ocean this weekend, we got down to testing the non-working engine gauges.

#1: Engine Temp Gauge.
Shorted the tip of the Sensor on the engine and the Gauge read max temp.  - Ordering a new temp sensor


#2: Engine high temp alarm.
Shorted the tip of the 2nd sensor on the engine and the alarm light lit up and the alarm sounded. - Ordering new high temp sendor.

#3: Fuel Gauge
Gained access to the fuel tank area by removing the cabinet just above the shower seat. Inside I found a wire with a terminal end that had been tie-wrapped to the fuel line and covered with electrical tape.
Shorted that line to the tank body and the fuel gauge read full. - Ordering a new fuel sensor (the one with the magnetic reed switches, not the swing arm type)

I think I lucked out on these items.

Paul
#128
Main Message Board / Racor Fuel Filter - Metal Bowl
July 31, 2015, 11:01:41 AM
I have read through many posts and the wiki about the fuel filters for our boats (1987 C34)

But did yet find a definitive answer to this question.

The filter on Eximius is a Racor R26T with a metal bowl.

It's the metal bowl that is my concern. Obviously, detecting water or grit in the bowl is not possible without removing the filter and then nearly impossible to detect if the fuel in the bowl has water in it. (I guess I could unspin the filter and drain the fuel into a bottle and let it settle)

So, I'm considering changing either bowl or the entire filter unit.

Questions comes down to:
#1 Can I just change the bowl (about $30) or the entire unit (about $250)

#Can anyone point out the correct replacement filter unit (yes, I've read the issues about 2mircon,10micron, etc.).

(Just trying to ward off any unnecessary 'go read the posts'  :D)

Paul
#129
Main Message Board / Is this an Oberdorfer pump
July 23, 2015, 12:43:09 PM
Working on my 'spares' list.

Is this an Oberdorfer pump ??
#130
Looking closely into installing AC (did this on our C250) I have a couple of questions...

I'm hoping I can install the AC without pulling the boat and making new holes in the hull.

?#1: Would it be ok to use one of the existing thru hulls by putting a T connector inboard of the shut off valve ? eg. connect the AC intake to a T in the Engine Intake line or the Head flush intake line? (I do not see an occasion when the engine would be running when we had AC turned on.)

?#2: Is there an existing thru hull that could be used to T into for the AC Discharge pipe?

From reading the many posts here about installing AC, I figure on installing the unit under the V-Berth stbd side just in front of the Hanging locker. Installing a Venturi for the condensate discharge connected to the AC discharge hose, and running the two hoses along the stbd side behind the Galley and the Stbd Water tank then into the area of the existing thru hulls in the Head locker.

I'm considering running the Air supply up behind the V-Berth Hanging locker to a 'box' on the top that would provide a grill for both the V-Berth and another facing into the cabin through the Forward bulkhead, and an Air T below the top of the hanging locker and then run inside the Storage shelving above the cabin stbd seating, Galley and into the Aft Berth with a Grill on the Aft bulkhead inside the Aft berth.

Does that sound ok?

Paul
#131
Main Message Board / Renaming our Boat
June 23, 2015, 08:20:04 AM
We renamed out boat this past weekend.

Total Fun!

http://www.sailingeximius.com/2015/06/renaming-ceremony.html

Paul
#132
Main Message Board / Boarding over the Transom
June 15, 2015, 06:28:19 AM
I had to get on and off the boat over the transom several times this weekend (Cleaning off the old name, putting the name on the transom and Polyglowing it)

I'm 6' and agile, my wife, Peggy is 5' 6" and not so agile.

I cannot see her being able to get on and off the dink by going over the transom.

The biggest hurdle is the tube that connects the port and starboard parts of the pushpit.

Has anyone cut that bar out?

I was thinking of cutting it out.

Anyone done that?

Paul
#133
Main Message Board / Active Captain - Locations App
June 11, 2015, 10:52:42 AM
Is anyone using the new Active Captain 'Locations' App?

I read the article about it on Active Captain last month and just downloaded the App.

First challenge is to find other AC members with an eboatcard, so do you have one yet?

Paul
#134
Main Message Board / Engine Temp sensor
June 02, 2015, 01:30:36 PM
Our boat is 30 minutes travel from home, so I like to be prepared before heading to the boat to work on a project.

The engine temp gauge is not working, can someone point out where on the engine the temp sensor is located.

Is it a block temp sensor or coolant temp sensor and where is it located.

I was thinking of installing something like this

Thanks.

Paul
#135
Main Message Board / Fuel Gauge System
June 02, 2015, 11:50:28 AM
My first question (yes, I have spent time reviewing the tech wiki and forum posts  :? )

The PO replaced the fuel tank level sender unit with a visual indicator. So I have to scrunch into the aft berth and use a flashlight and mirror to view the fuel gauge. The gauge on the engine control panel obviously does not work.

I believe that to test the gauge involves shorting out the Sender connection on the back of the gauge with the -ve (ground) contact which should result in a Full reading.

But I cannot find out what type of sender unit should be in the tank so that I can replace it.

Anyone have info about a replacement fuel level sender unit for the 1987 aluminium fuel tank??

Thanks.
Paul
#136
Main Message Board / Moved up to C34
May 21, 2015, 12:31:45 PM
Just a quick Intro/Hi from Paul & Peggy. We've owned a C250 WB since 2005 and have just purchased a 1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel in Stuart Florida.

We're driving up there to bring 'Eximius' to Fort Lauderdale over the Memorial Day Weekend.

Anyone on the ICW over the weekend between Stuart & Fort Lauderdale? (Especially Old Port Cove or Lake Boca) Let us know, would be glad to wave as we go by or dink over if you're at anchor nearby.


The boat was previously named 'Chris Deke'. We met them in Stuart a few weeks ago, really great people. Deke spent two days introducing me to the boat systems while the survey was done. I could not ask for a better PO.

We're planning on taking Eximius to various club events (Hillsboro Inlet Sailing Club) and preparing ourselves and the boat for trips down the keys and to the Bahamas as well as trips up the coast to the Chesapeake.

Retiring in November this year, so we have 6 months to get used to the boat and the boat used to us. :D



Paul