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Messages - Joyride

#16
Thanks for the link. I read up on that a while back but I'm still scratching my head on this one.  Has anyone ever had the LED Indicator just stay on? 
Heading back to the boat this evening to see if I can figure anything out. 

Thanks!

#17
Gang,

My Fan cooled cold machine has been working. Fine for several months since I replaced the thermostat but now won't turn on.  The led indicator is on but not blinking.  It's just solid red.  Fuses are ok.  And I have plenty of power to the unit.  I can't find "solid red" or "on but not blinking" in any of the troubleshooting posts. 

Any ideas where to start?
#18
Well I think I got it.  I tested continuity of the thermostat with dial in both coldest and 0 settings and got nothing.   Then I just connected the 2 thermostat wires together at the tstat and it kicked on.  So I'm thermostat shopping.
#19
Hey guys so I was able to get it running and cooling by bypassing the thermostat with the jumper cable.  Next question, what's the long term fix for this or do you just turn it on and off and let it run all the time or off all the time?
#20
Gang.

My AB Cold Machine has been working fine for a couple years and turned it off a couple weeks ago because I was going away from the boat and wanted to defrost.  Now it wont come back on.  The unit I have is fan cooled and has the LED indicator lights and there is no blinking light and I've checked that I've getting power there already.  My unit is mounted behind the aft water tank on my 91 C34 so it's a major pain to get to.  Any thoughts on this?  Could the temp sender not be sending anything or could the panel be shot?  The 5 and 15 A fuses were intact. 
#21
All,

THank you for the responses.  I brought the new pump in to the shop (reputable in St. Petersburg FL) they pressure tested the new sherwood and couldn't get it to leak so they are saying that I might have a restriction in the flow.  My strainer looks good and I did pull some zinc out of the hx which would inhibit but I don't think much.  Would there be anywhere else where I'd be getting water flow issues besides the hx?  The hx exit hose is new (replaced due to cracking last year but didn't see much if any build up.)

would the waterlift potentially have build up or does anyone have a suggestion?  Even if I go to the Ob pump I would still like to understand this better.
#22
Main Message Board / Re: Leaky water tank fix?
January 30, 2017, 07:58:43 PM
FYI I bought the 16.99 Plastic Welder and gave it a go.  It looks to be crude but effective.  I'm not sure if I want to post pictures of my first plastic weld, but it seems to be holding all right.
#23
Gang,

I put in a new Sherwood G908 on my M35 back in November and have maybe 30 hours on it.  My old one was rebuilt and I got about 200 hours before it started weeping so I got a new one and kept the old as a spare. I usually check the engine compartment before every outing and noticed a couple of drops of salt water and a rust stain from the lower weep hole on the Sherwood.  I called up my local vendor and to see if there is a warranty or anything and they suggested I check for water flow restrictions that could be causing too much pressure build up.  She's pumping lots of water and keeping my engine right at 160.   I've never heard the water flow restriction explanation on the weeping, anyone else heard this?
#24
Main Message Board / Leaky water tank fix?
January 29, 2017, 04:35:56 PM
Gang I'm getting ready for a big trip and have been checking all my systems and found a leak near the top of my aft water tank on my 91 mk1.5.  There's an indent where the tank fits below the steering quadrant and I've sprung a leak in the crease there.  Its easy to get the tank out but does anyone have a recommendation for fixing this leak.  It's like a pinhole leak and I was thinking I could spread some epoxy on there and call it good.  Anybody have any other tried and true methods?
#25
Main Message Board / Re: Terminal Block Confusion
January 23, 2017, 06:21:39 AM
Thanks for the responses it looks like it must have been a loose connection leading to heat/corrosion.  I removed the terminal block and replaced but it was really only one of the connections that was bad.  I didn't see any signs of a leak nearby.  The jumper plate was almost corroded through as well and this could have caused some more grounding issues as all the circuits are connected through the jumpers so it would have isolated the top 4.  Any I also found a loose fitting on the panel and seem to have fixed the issue of the power loss on the vhf run. 
#26
Main Message Board / Terminal Block Confusion
January 19, 2017, 09:40:41 PM
Gang,

I've been chasing down a gremlin low battery indicator when I transmit on the VHF  and determined that my issue was the ground...  I traced the wire back to behind the panel and found the negative terminal block with a severely corroded connection on one of the slots.  Does anyone know what to make of this.  The wire looks fine (not melted) but there is a lot of corrosion around that whole connection.  Any ides?  Also I'm not sure who installed this terminal block this way, but since all the circuits are "jumped" wouldn't it make more sense just to have bus bar? Thanks.   
#27
FYI I did talk to someone at Edson and they confirmed the stainless wire rope clamps are the same type / size as are available from Seafit.  I installed and all set. 

One of the u-bolts broke off one of the old galvanized clamps when I was trying to get one the the nuts off. Just an FYI.
#28
Alright thread hi-jackers.  Anybody have anything on the difference in size between galvanized and ss wire clamps or should I just go with the SS even thought the u-bolt is a smaller #10 vs the 1/4 for the galvanized 3/16" wire rope clamp?
#29
Gang,

I'm doing a bunch of projects with the aft water tank out running some chaser wires for solar, gadgets, a transom shower, and also inspecting the steering cables.  Everything looks great but the PO had galvanized wire clamps on the steering wire and they've gotten pretty rusty.  I bought stainless 3/16" wire clamps at WM and noticed that they are a #10 U-bolt vs the 1/4" on the galvanized clamps that are sold in the store and also the ones that are on the boat.  #10 just seems really small but it looks like the saddle is too big if you go the next size up on the stainless wire clamps.

Is there some reason that they would go galvanized instead of stainless, am I over complicating the issue with the smaller bolt diameter on these stainless clamps? 

I also sent the same question in to Edson I'll let you know what they say.  They sell the clamps too but hoping to get this done in the next day or so and don't want to pay double and wait too. 
#30
Main Message Board / Color Coded Rope Clutch Levers
August 07, 2015, 12:44:36 PM
It's been raining and storming for the last couple weeks so I've had plenty of time to do a quick project I'd been thinking about.  I have some experienced sailors on the boat a lot and also frequently have beginners.  Every boat is laid out a little different and I think it is easier to tell people which lever to open or close than to describe the color of the line.  I just installed a double Gaurhauer on the starboard side that has black and blue levers, and have a triple Gaurhauer on the port side with grey levers.  I bought some spray paint from the local Do it Best Hardware at 6.50 a can and color coded the levers.  I'll report back to let you know how they're holding up in a few months. 

I just sanded with 100 grit and sprayed on some enamel outdoor furniture type paint. 2 coats