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Topics - Joyride

#1
Hi Gang,

I decided to replace the crazed and ugly fixed windows on my 91.  I as soon as I started the project I regretted it...as they weren't leaking or weak at all.  I got the windows out finally and duplicates made by a reputable shop in Sarasota.  Now I need to get the black sealant off and its a major pain.  I've used razors, scrapers, sand paper, and finally a wire wheel to make it go fast.  Anybody have a particularly good method for doing this?  The wire wheel is making quick work but I'm also sure that I'll make some marks if it gets away. 

#2
Main Message Board / kayak opinions
March 17, 2020, 11:48:41 AM
Hey Gang,

I'm looking to add a sit on top kayak to the toy box this year and want to bring on the boat occasionally.  Anybody have any suggestions on practicality of sailing with a 12' kayak on the bow or on the side with a rack?

Also we have the walk through 91 model.  I'm assuming it will still be a pain to get in from the boat.  Anybody care to share what works best?

#3
Main Message Board / new Danfoss Controller not working?
November 21, 2019, 05:50:12 PM
Hey gang,

I've been trouble shooting my adler barbour cold machine and coming up empty.  About 2 years ago I bought a new module but never put it on because I found I had a bad thermostat after I used a jumper between the T and C.  The new thermostat solved the issue and I've been running it fine since then. 

I'm getting 12.6v to the pc board and then to the Danfoss(secop) module reads same.  The compressor doesn't come on, or fan, and I get no blinking lights.  I found the module that I bought before and put that on.  Same thing, power, no fan, no compressor, and no lights.  I also ran the thermostat jumper again and that did not help. 

Also when I click on the power I'm not even getting a voltage drop as if the compressor is trying to turn on.

Is there a way to test that the module is sending power to the compressor?   Fuses on the pc board are fine.  Are there any fuses in the control module?
#4
Main Message Board / M35 Starter Removal
May 11, 2019, 11:10:03 AM
Gang,

I'm trying to remove my starter from the M35 and I'm having issues contorting into the position to get a wrench on the top bolt.  Has anyone taken their starter off on the Universal M35?  Any tips getting to that top bolt?
#5
Main Message Board / New Headsail recommendation
May 05, 2019, 08:32:06 AM
Hey Gang I know there are a lot of threads on this already but I'm seeking more advice anyway. 

I need a new headsail and I'm not sure what size to go with.  I sail mostly in light winds in SW FL but also do some offshore stuff (Cuba, Key West) maybe head for Isla Mujeres next year so I'd like something I can carry roller reefed when the wind picks up to 30. 

We don't do much racing so I was thinking a 135 would be the way to go.  My 150 I think was kind of blown out when I got the boat and I could never get a good shape if reefed and didn't like to point all that well in light wind. 

Any thoughts?  I use the boat almost weekly on day sails so looking for something durable and it'll stay on the furler all the time. 

1991 C34 Wing Keel Std Rig
#6
Water heater hose popped off today and send all my freshwater into the bilge while we were underway today.  We motored about 3 hrs so I'm sure the water in the tank was good and hot.  It's happened before and I figured it was a loose clamp so I made sure it was good and tight.  I'm thinking maybe too Michael pressure in the tank or something?  Anybody ever have this happen?
#7
Hey gang I upgraded the furler this year to a Hood 808 SL and it's awesome compared to the continuous line furler that was on the boat before.  I've been using the double sheave from the continuous setup and it works, just not well. 

I'm planning to get new blocks but can't decide whether to go outside or inside with sheaves or fairleads or a ratchet block at the end.  Does anybody have a good setup that they can share?  I want to route on the starboard side and furl from the helm.

Thanks!

#8
Gang,

My Fan cooled cold machine has been working. Fine for several months since I replaced the thermostat but now won't turn on.  The led indicator is on but not blinking.  It's just solid red.  Fuses are ok.  And I have plenty of power to the unit.  I can't find "solid red" or "on but not blinking" in any of the troubleshooting posts. 

Any ideas where to start?
#9
Gang.

My AB Cold Machine has been working fine for a couple years and turned it off a couple weeks ago because I was going away from the boat and wanted to defrost.  Now it wont come back on.  The unit I have is fan cooled and has the LED indicator lights and there is no blinking light and I've checked that I've getting power there already.  My unit is mounted behind the aft water tank on my 91 C34 so it's a major pain to get to.  Any thoughts on this?  Could the temp sender not be sending anything or could the panel be shot?  The 5 and 15 A fuses were intact. 
#10
Gang,

I put in a new Sherwood G908 on my M35 back in November and have maybe 30 hours on it.  My old one was rebuilt and I got about 200 hours before it started weeping so I got a new one and kept the old as a spare. I usually check the engine compartment before every outing and noticed a couple of drops of salt water and a rust stain from the lower weep hole on the Sherwood.  I called up my local vendor and to see if there is a warranty or anything and they suggested I check for water flow restrictions that could be causing too much pressure build up.  She's pumping lots of water and keeping my engine right at 160.   I've never heard the water flow restriction explanation on the weeping, anyone else heard this?
#11
Main Message Board / Leaky water tank fix?
January 29, 2017, 04:35:56 PM
Gang I'm getting ready for a big trip and have been checking all my systems and found a leak near the top of my aft water tank on my 91 mk1.5.  There's an indent where the tank fits below the steering quadrant and I've sprung a leak in the crease there.  Its easy to get the tank out but does anyone have a recommendation for fixing this leak.  It's like a pinhole leak and I was thinking I could spread some epoxy on there and call it good.  Anybody have any other tried and true methods?
#12
Main Message Board / Terminal Block Confusion
January 19, 2017, 09:40:41 PM
Gang,

I've been chasing down a gremlin low battery indicator when I transmit on the VHF  and determined that my issue was the ground...  I traced the wire back to behind the panel and found the negative terminal block with a severely corroded connection on one of the slots.  Does anyone know what to make of this.  The wire looks fine (not melted) but there is a lot of corrosion around that whole connection.  Any ides?  Also I'm not sure who installed this terminal block this way, but since all the circuits are "jumped" wouldn't it make more sense just to have bus bar? Thanks.   
#13
Gang,

I'm doing a bunch of projects with the aft water tank out running some chaser wires for solar, gadgets, a transom shower, and also inspecting the steering cables.  Everything looks great but the PO had galvanized wire clamps on the steering wire and they've gotten pretty rusty.  I bought stainless 3/16" wire clamps at WM and noticed that they are a #10 U-bolt vs the 1/4" on the galvanized clamps that are sold in the store and also the ones that are on the boat.  #10 just seems really small but it looks like the saddle is too big if you go the next size up on the stainless wire clamps.

Is there some reason that they would go galvanized instead of stainless, am I over complicating the issue with the smaller bolt diameter on these stainless clamps? 

I also sent the same question in to Edson I'll let you know what they say.  They sell the clamps too but hoping to get this done in the next day or so and don't want to pay double and wait too. 
#14
Main Message Board / Color Coded Rope Clutch Levers
August 07, 2015, 12:44:36 PM
It's been raining and storming for the last couple weeks so I've had plenty of time to do a quick project I'd been thinking about.  I have some experienced sailors on the boat a lot and also frequently have beginners.  Every boat is laid out a little different and I think it is easier to tell people which lever to open or close than to describe the color of the line.  I just installed a double Gaurhauer on the starboard side that has black and blue levers, and have a triple Gaurhauer on the port side with grey levers.  I bought some spray paint from the local Do it Best Hardware at 6.50 a can and color coded the levers.  I'll report back to let you know how they're holding up in a few months. 

I just sanded with 100 grit and sprayed on some enamel outdoor furniture type paint. 2 coats
#15
Main Message Board / Backstay Chainplate replacement
April 13, 2015, 12:02:54 PM
Gang,

So I've inspected and rebedded the upper and lower chainplates and made my way to the backstay chainplates to check them out.  I stuck my camera in there to take a picture first and it looked really rusty so I will be taking them out and checking or replacing.  I couldn't find anything on Catalina Direct so here I am.  Has anyone replaced their backstay chainplates and where did you get your replacement, etc?  Can you buy a "blank" from WM or some other rigging co?
#16
Hey Gang,

I am running the reefing lines aft to the cockpit and have already installed the rope clutches and have the deck organizers on order but I'm looking for a good way to run the line under the traveller like the mainsheet and main halyard.  There are two pad eyes or bullseyes under the traveller that look like they could be swapped for a triple but I can't find anything online or at the local stores.  My guess is that they aren't avaiable, but Im sure I'm not the only one to do this.  Anyone know where to get a triple thingy or do people route them against the traveller base.  I have  flap in the dodger that would be better for the line to go through if it was close to the other two.  Here's a pic.