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Ok I got all the stuff off.  This did not go that well for me and I tried about every sharp tool and solvent I had and still ended up sanding a long time. 

Next question...anybody ever rebed these with butyl tape instead of the sealant (I have the recommended Dow 795)?   I had the screw holes drilled so that should give some bite to compress the butyl. 

Hi Gang,

I decided to replace the crazed and ugly fixed windows on my 91.  I as soon as I started the project I regretted it...as they weren't leaking or weak at all.  I got the windows out finally and duplicates made by a reputable shop in Sarasota.  Now I need to get the black sealant off and its a major pain.  I've used razors, scrapers, sand paper, and finally a wire wheel to make it go fast.  Anybody have a particularly good method for doing this?  The wire wheel is making quick work but I'm also sure that I'll make some marks if it gets away. 

There are some pretty detailed threads on here about the wiring upgrades.  You might get lucky and find the culprit but if your boat is mid 80s and the panel has already been modified, it's likely you'll have several issues. You might find the switch is the culprit now, but next season it'll be the ground or a corroded connection.  I built a new wiring harness following the recommendations on here this Spring and I love having the peace of mind that when I push the button it's gonna start.  Mine is a 91 and when I took apart the harness I found poorly connected butt connectors on both sides (Engine and Panel) that had been neatly wrapped and organized future problems.  If you have the time to do it I recommend taking the time to figure it out. 

Hey Gang,

I'm looking to add a sit on top kayak to the toy box this year and want to bring on the boat occasionally.  Anybody have any suggestions on practicality of sailing with a 12' kayak on the bow or on the side with a rack?

Also we have the walk through 91 model.  I'm assuming it will still be a pain to get in from the boat.  Anybody care to share what works best?

Thanks for the responses Ken and Stu.  I ended up chucking the PC board and wiring directly to the module with a 15 amp inline fuse to the danfoss as recommended.  I then added my own led bulb for diagnostics.  There are some surprisingly good videos on Youtube on how to do this here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tR_Ro6PGGfo

I used my existing danfoss module and everything fired up and has been running and cooling for the last 2 weeks no problemo.  I couldn't really tell what was happening in the board but it wasn't sending enough power to the danfoss when hooked up.  Changed fuses as well as small thermo fuse on back of board.   

Easy way to check the board is to hook up positive and negative leads straight to the danfoss and jump the Thermostat slots.  compressor started right away. 

Hey gang,

I've been trouble shooting my adler barbour cold machine and coming up empty.  About 2 years ago I bought a new module but never put it on because I found I had a bad thermostat after I used a jumper between the T and C.  The new thermostat solved the issue and I've been running it fine since then. 

I'm getting 12.6v to the pc board and then to the Danfoss(secop) module reads same.  The compressor doesn't come on, or fan, and I get no blinking lights.  I found the module that I bought before and put that on.  Same thing, power, no fan, no compressor, and no lights.  I also ran the thermostat jumper again and that did not help. 

Also when I click on the power I'm not even getting a voltage drop as if the compressor is trying to turn on.

Is there a way to test that the module is sending power to the compressor?   Fuses on the pc board are fine.  Are there any fuses in the control module?

Got it.  Needed a slightly longer extension.  Pain in the...

Gang,

I'm trying to remove my starter from the M35 and I'm having issues contorting into the position to get a wrench on the top bolt.  Has anyone taken their starter off on the Universal M35?  Any tips getting to that top bolt?

I put in a 16k under the v berth two years ago after the old 12k BTU unit died.  I'm down in St Petersburg/Tampa Bay and sometimes I work all day from my laptop in the salon and its very comfortable.  I usuallly put a towel over the front hatch in the summer though and have dark curtains inside covering the long deck windows.  The 12k I replaced seemed to do just fine too until it died though just saying.   

 I really like that refrigerator install.  Mine is way back behind the aft water tank and I can just barley reach it from the opening hatch on deck.  I have the walkthru transom and that hatch is tiny.  When my compressor goes I think I'll relocate it to that spot in front of the starboard water tank.

Thanks for the link Stu. That made for an interesting read and there is lots to ponder there for sure.  I'm thinking now the 135 or smaller might be just fine. 

Hey Gang I know there are a lot of threads on this already but I'm seeking more advice anyway. 

I need a new headsail and I'm not sure what size to go with.  I sail mostly in light winds in SW FL but also do some offshore stuff (Cuba, Key West) maybe head for Isla Mujeres next year so I'd like something I can carry roller reefed when the wind picks up to 30. 

We don't do much racing so I was thinking a 135 would be the way to go.  My 150 I think was kind of blown out when I got the boat and I could never get a good shape if reefed and didn't like to point all that well in light wind. 

Any thoughts?  I use the boat almost weekly on day sails so looking for something durable and it'll stay on the furler all the time. 

1991 C34 Wing Keel Std Rig

Water heater hose popped off today and send all my freshwater into the bilge while we were underway today.  We motored about 3 hrs so I'm sure the water in the tank was good and hot.  It's happened before and I figured it was a loose clamp so I made sure it was good and tight.  I'm thinking maybe too Michael pressure in the tank or something?  Anybody ever have this happen?

Hey gang I upgraded the furler this year to a Hood 808 SL and it's awesome compared to the continuous line furler that was on the boat before.  I've been using the double sheave from the continuous setup and it works, just not well. 

I'm planning to get new blocks but can't decide whether to go outside or inside with sheaves or fairleads or a ratchet block at the end.  Does anybody have a good setup that they can share?  I want to route on the starboard side and furl from the helm.

Thanks!

I always thought the table was just too big and we never used as a bed so I went the simple and cheap route.  I bought a big cutting board on amazon and a spray can of clearcoat and this has really opened up the cabin and made it much more comfortable when you have more than two people in the cabin.