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Messages - dfloeter

#166
Main Message Board / Source for Cabinet Latches
August 17, 2015, 08:30:41 AM
After searching this site, the web and calling Catalina Direct I need help.   Two of our galley cabinet doors are held closed with brass bullet catches that are fine until we execute an unplanned 50 degree roll on a rogue and embarrassingly unnoticed  wave and crockery launches itself into the air.    The existing catches around the boat are mostly black plastic push buttons next to a simple U shaped handle.   The galley door design is ½" with a ¼ round teak strip along two edges.   

The nearest I can find to this latch is a Seadog brand, http://www.go2marine.com/product/387315F/sea-dog-cabinet-latch-push-button-push-button-cabinet-latch.html, from Go2marine but I hope to find a latch that is more similar to the originals.   

thanks



#167
For an additional $821, our PO could have ordered the tall rig in 1996.  Darn it, I wish he had. 
#168
Well Roc, you make a great point about attachment location and a soft shackle.   Simpler is better anyway.   No cars needed.
#169
Main Message Board / Re: Struck by lightning!
July 23, 2015, 10:03:02 AM
I have on that that came on our boat you can have for shipping.  The foot is the 2" for a Universal.    It would likely be a get by alternator at only 39 amps, but the price is right.
#170
I am rigging our boat for spinnaker flying and lack a set of 1 1/4" sliding track cars from which to hang a set of snatch blocks.  Might someone have an extra set in the spare parts bin that we all seem to fill over the years?
#171
Main Message Board / Re: Outboard issue
June 15, 2015, 09:41:18 AM
My two cents: I have the same engine and had a similar issue. It would start with full choke and die when the choke was pushed in. The problem was an air leak past the whimsy wire hose clamps on the fuel lines. One was broken and after replacement the engine fired right up. Yesterday I replaced the original tubing with better and real clamps. Problem solved, I hope.  Good luck.
#172
Main Message Board / Re: M35 Valve Adjustment
June 10, 2015, 09:47:20 AM
Your compression is higher than mine so maybe I can spin it over easily enough.  thanks
#173
Main Message Board / M35 Valve Adjustment
June 10, 2015, 07:20:12 AM
Our M35 has an annoying ticking sound at idle and I am presuming the valves need adjusting.   On the sea trial last year our surveyor did not think it was anything to be concerned about but to is beginning to bug me.   

The actual adjusting procedure is straight forward enough but what I am unsure of is how best to turn over an engine with no compression release and no accessible hex nut to turn with a wrench.   The 30mm nut on the crank shaft has a bent up keeper that precludes using a wrench.   The 18mm splined shaft offers a possibility if I manufacture an adapter or the pulley has three tapped holes that I can adapt to.

OK, there must be a simple solution.   Am I over thinking this one?
#174
I replaced the original 20" long roller on my 1996 Mark II with the 30" model and need to move the old.   It's roller is is in good shape and spins well, has never seen salt, has old sealant on the bottom and comes with a backing plate.    The photos I think tell the tale.

How about $75 plus shipping?
#175
Main Message Board / Re: GFI Tripping
March 24, 2015, 03:23:46 PM
Well, weirdness continues.  The mystery wire crosses to port under the aft v berth edge and enters the liner inside the port locker at the top of the lower hanging area. After that I have no idea where the wire goes. It must up behind the wood slat wall but access is a bit tough. I then do not find a corresponding wire entering the nav area.  My best option is to leave the wire disconnected and wait until something as yet unknown does not function. 
#176
Main Message Board / Re: GFI Tripping
March 24, 2015, 07:56:41 AM
The testing I am using is a simple plug in showing polarity and any open wires without a switch to test a GFI.    The thing is yellow with three less on the top where two yellows shows a good outlet.

My now protected outlets are wired off the GFI load terminals but initially were not.   I will be doing as you suggest with the galley outlet and running the aft cabin outlet of the load side of that GFI.   

Thanks again Ken.   You will be receiving mail from me any day now.
#177
Main Message Board / Re: GFI Tripping
March 24, 2015, 06:47:31 AM
In the end I found a mystery wire (12-3 boat wire) leading forward from the starboard hanging locker up in the V-berth.   When rewiring the outlets I installed a terminal block in the locker which is fed by a 12-3 running from the nav station GFI.   The three outlets on starboard are then fed from this terminal block.  After disconnecting the common (white) wire from this terminal block  the problem has evaporated and all outlets test normal and the GFI functions as expected.   Later today I will track down the end of the mystery wire.   

What I have discovered is the lack of a GFI on the independently wired outlets in the galley and aft cabin.   This is the original circuit off the breaker on the panel logically labeled outlets.   I am presuming the breaker will not function as a GFI.   Changing the galley receptacle to a GFI I think should cover both of those.

On to the next curious situation, whatever that may be.   Thanks for the advice.
#178
Main Message Board / Re: GFI Tripping
March 23, 2015, 11:22:10 AM
The GFI tripped when all wires were connected to it properly and a load was applied to any of the starboard outlets.    When I touched the wire to the GFI and it tripped there was no load on the circuit.   Ken, I will do as you suggest and disconnect the port side from the GFI and reconnect the starboard.   I will also back down the outlets and start disconnecting from the farthest out ending at the galley which was the only original outlet in the string with the micro wave.   I will have to check the aft cabin for more outlets.    Rereading your suggestions, do you mean to run a loose jumper from the GFI to the various outlets? 
#179
Main Message Board / Re: GFI Tripping
March 23, 2015, 08:10:27 AM
Resurrecting an older topic as I think my question may dovetail nicely with this discussion.

We have owned this boat but a year  and I am still working through the wire issues left by the PO.    This current issue has to do with the GFI not functioning.   After replacing all the Romex the PO had installed when he added outlets on both sides and forward I had power at all these outlets.   Next came the GFI that was not functioning.     Upon pulling the GFI from it's box I found the feed  wire attachment screw sheared in it's hole and all hot wires run to one load terminal.   This explained why the GFI Was not working so I replaced the GFI with a new one.    

Now as soon as I plug something into the starboard outlet leg and turn it on the GFI trips.   The port side works properly so I figure the GFI is not at fault.    With the starboard side hot and common wires disconnected from the GFI with only the ground still on, the GFI will trip when I touch either white or black to it's appropriate terminal.    

I have checked all outlets with an outlet tester and they all test properly.   I have also visually inspected the outlets and all looks right.   The boat is connected to shore power on land via a GFI outlet and adapters to the 30A inlet on the stern.  

Any thoughts are appreciated.

#180
On this topic, some years ago, when venturing into salt water I sprayed Boeshield T-9 on wire connections, even the back of the fuse panel.   The one place where I overdid the spraying was the remote VHF mic plug.   No measure of cleaning with multiple solvents ever uninsulated that connection and
I had to run an extension wire out the companionway.   Replacing the plug at that point was lower on the priority list with the ports leaking in torrential Florida rains and other issues.  Would a dielectric grease have worked on this low power draw plug or could I have just left it alone?   Was the T-9 a good product to begin with?