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Satisfying my curiosity, I have results.   Temps were measured with a Fluke 62 Mini IR Thermometer and voltages with a Blue Seas AC/DC Clamp Meter.  Two types of leds were tested, 6w x3 led and a 4w x 60 led.  The ancient Radio Shack power supply  puts out 15.5 volts with the 3x led and 15.8 volts with the 60x led. 

Top temps: 6w x3 90F on the led surface and 85F on the vented side
                 4w x60 157F on the led surface and 70-110 on the side measuring from trhe base upwards

At no time did anything smell burned or seem unusual.  For whatever it's worth, this is the data.   Should I continue using the leds?

A quick update on my el cheapo leds referenced earlier.   I wired the two types (MR-16 4 watt with 60 leds on a flat panel and 6 watt with 3 leds) that I have to an old Radio Shack 12 volt power supply that actually outputs 16.2 volts.   Wiring them one at a time, they were let burn for a couple hours each and temperature was monitored occasionally with a Fluke laser thermometer.  The temp at the bases never topped 70F and measuring the sides of the reflectors the temp was closer to 80F.  I know this is not real scientific but the lights did well at 16 volts and never came close to a melt down.   If I can track down a variable power source I would like to check these lights at higher voltages and find the breaking point.   Thanks for the concern about less expensive lights but so far I see no reason to stop using these.  Am I missing something?

Thanks Ken for the video.   I see a little testing is in order.    When I return from a three week road trip I will check this out further.   

In addition to adding light to the boat, a Mark 2, I changed out the swivel bulbs for LEDs on the cheap.   Warm white LEDs found on Ebay for a few dollars each.   We have two types, a 4 watt that sits flush with the housing like the original bulbs and I believe a 6 watt bulb that protrudes ½" or so.   So far the bulbs are holding up to use and have greatly reduced electricity usage.   

YMMV

Well, I posted the windlass on Ebay, the price went well and it sold.   The buyer in Australia then realized shipping was going to be rather steep and backed out.   

Any offers on this windlass?   For spare parts alone this is a bargain.

I added four of these lights in our salon mounted to cabinets for reading lights and maybe they would work in the front?  The build is solid and they are all stainless except for the chrome plated base which at least is ferrous enough for a magnet to stick. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Boat-Reading-Light-RV-Fixture-MR16-LED-Bulb-Base-Satin-Chrome-12v-GW21500-/221838108222?hash=item33a694e63e

This windlass will be on Ebay tonight for a week's run.

You are in the same place I was and am now $2500 poorer.  Good luck. 

Pictures as requested.   The foot switch is not shown as it is still at the boat.

Well, I removed the old windlass and am in the middle of installing a Maxwell VW10 and do need to move the old one off my bench.   When we bought the boat last year the windlass was wired backwards and not really usable so I doubt it ever saw much use in it's 18 years of life.  The gypsy has all of it's chrome and looks great.   Included is the foot switch but without the chrome ring.    I may remove one of the mounting studs to reuse on the new so that would have to be sourced.  A meter of metric threaded rod will cost 12.85 at Fastenal and you get enough to do the whole windlass with fresh threads.

How about $400 plus shipping from 49686?    Estimate about  26 pounds packaged.


thanks, Dietrich

Which Oberdorfer do you have?

Thanks Ron, who'd have guessed.  This is a 1996 Mark 1.5 or 2 with the wider transom. 
Last year I was asking about proper blocking for the wing equipped boat and found the best place for the keel block to be a foot or so act of the keel toe.  This is ahead of the vessel's CG but probably good for Catalina Smile prevention.  At least the gap had not opened more through the entire winter.

Does anyone have the fore and aft dimension of the wing keel?

We installed six inch speakers in the side cabinets facing forward. I reasoned that I wished to not see them and the sound would bounce around anyway. Sound doesn't bounce as much as hoped but the installation works well.

Thanks Ken.  this is the info one cannot find with a Google search.