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Whether you use the spray glue or sticky back insulation product, you should ALSO USE screws and washers. Also, I disagree with Ron regarding 1-1/4 inch thick. You will have difficulty fitting that thick of insulation in several locations inside the box—particularly on the removable stairs and opening door next to the alternator.

Search our website using term "Soundown".
Defender sells "Soundown" which requires spray glue to install. West Marine's product is a similar make-up but it is peel and stick. Both come in a variety of thicknesses. Soundown comes in kits so sizing/measuring your space requirement is important. You may need 1-1/2 kits. Or a couple different thicknesses depending whether you are covering engine room doors , etc.  I believe you can buy the West Marine product in individual squares(?). Both work.

Mark- this is a "bad link" (not working) please fix or remove. Also what is the subject of the video?

Never thought about water coming FROM inside. I question that worry. I never consider gooping up bolts in the bilge years after keel install. Maybe? However, it is a "known" issue discussed here in the past, that you should remove any gelcoat from around the washers and nuts to prevent oxygen starvation which could cause corrosion.

Lots of places to buy online, but it is not cheap. Google is your friend, search "Teak lumber". I would probably start with a 3/8 in. teak board. Then (I would think) you could do all the cutting and shaping with a sabre saw/skill saw, a power sander and/or hand sanding.

Ron—really? From the freshwater tank? Not rain, through any number of hatches, vents, etc? I would think it would be "easy" to eliminate the aft tank as the culprit?

Prop is cleaned/polished during each haul out. Then the hull and prop are cleaned by my diver monthly. Cost is $60 per month. He also replaces spent zincs for extra $10 (I supply zincs). Full disclosure: That photo is just before my last launch. I go 3-years between haul outs/painting. Next one is this October.

  This my set-up in California. Pretty usual

 
I have never used zinc spray on bronze. Might work, but Interlux Interprotect 20000 epoxy is my go to.

  Bernd— YES! Sorry for confusion. My strut is primed with epoxy and painted with bottom paint. While it is metal, I consider it part of the hull not "running gear".

If you don't use a diver, I have anecdotally heard that Prop Speed and similar (expensive) coatings help significantly curtail growth. Following exact application instructions is mandatory to get good results..

In San Diego I just clean and polish shaft and prop at haulout. No painting. Of course I have a diver monthly.

I like Alex's idea of bringing Formica to paint store. Perhaps remove one of your galley sliding door panels of fridge lid?

One company's "Antique White" is another's "Off White". Paint color names vary by brands. I would recommend going to a paint store or big box store and grab some chip samples and bring them to your boat's Formica to get a somewhat close match. The actual paint may very from the sample but you will be closer using that approach instead just relying on a color name.

 
I agree Jim, but then I hit my head on my split backstay! But that's another issue... ;-)