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an inline fuse between the start button in the cockpit panel and the engine. 

Note that the pesky fuse is not present on the (OEM-wired) A and B series engines.  The "S" wire is direct to the solenoid. 

The panel, etc. is protected by a PB Circuit Breaker on the engine, below the cube Fuel Pump, plus the panel PB Breaker.

@rjabara

It is the crankcase breather hose (fumes/oil blow-by, which on autos used to have an in-line PCV valve on it.) 

Westerbeke cheaps out and simply zip-ties the other end against the foam air cleaner.  There are more exotic fixes for that hose end, but that's the basics.

@rjabara

There is no magic bullet, single-cause, answer here but there are two truisms that apply.

Either (1) the starter solenoid is faulty (doesn't consistently activate the magnetic switch) OR (2) the voltage to the solenoid is low and it cannot activate (pull in) the magnetic switch.

#2 is more likely than #1 and is easier to troubleshoot.
When you cannot activate the starter, the idea is to troubleshoot AT THE solenoid to determine if it has low voltage.  if the voltage is low, then find the cause, which can be a handful of causes. 

The start switch could indeed be the problem (burned contacts) and has enough V loss so the solenoid pulls in only when the Batts are being charged (14+ V.)

When trying to start (non-start condition) check voltages EVERYWHERE, from the battery to the key switch, to the start switch, to the solenoid.  That will help I.D. where the "bottleneck" is occurring. It can also be cumulative, being corroded cable lugs from the battery through the selector switch to the panel, the solenoid. Add up all the V losses and you have a large V loss.

The wiring on the B engines is very different than the Oshkosh Universal M-35 so print out the proper wiring schematic from the Wiki Site MANUALS page and use it to record the V at your key locations. MAKE sure all negative cable connections are clean and tight, as as well as the "S" wire terminals (which energizes the solenoid switch.)

Another approach when you have a no-start, is to bypass the panel and START button and apply a good, known 12v directly to the starter solenoid.

The other check is to hear whether the solenoid switch is indeed pulling-in, but the starter motor is not activating.  That's a way different issue and likely needs to have the starter pulled and checked out at a shop.  The starter motor not energizing can too, be caused by low V at the battery cable terminal.

Also, it looks like some battery terminals need attention.  The cables with the highest load go on any terminal post first and progressively lighter-load wires on top.  It sure looks like you have lighter terminals underneath some cable lugs.

Let us know the V readings that you see!

Sometimes it's as simple as spiders messing up the pivot

the wind sensor is spinning and the pointer points.

Are you looking at the Windex aft of the mastead or the Raymarine forward of the masthead?

Picture?

BTW,
There is a second "hidden" HIN per CG requirements somewhere below, but I do not know its location on the C-34s.

HIN location -

https://www.c34.org/faq-pages/faq-hin.html

It will start with CTNYP nnnn but could be worn down and nearly unreadable.

On the C34.org home page there is a Google enhanced search box that is sometimes more helpful than the search feature on the Forum.  On the bottom starboard side of the page.

This is on a phone but it's nearly the same on a PC browser:

Found it thanks!

@pbyrne


I thought we went thru this last Septemeber!
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,11811.msg95917.html#msg95917


Besides that thread, you might read this message/thread, which pertains to both oil and tranny fluid.
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9554.msg72039.html#msg72039


I do not like single-purpose pumps (or single-purpose anything taking up boat space) and have not had the best of luck with the longevity of marine "oil pumps".  Plus cleaning up a mess.

My pump system clean-up is two short 1/4" vinyl hoses and a stiff "wand" of 1/8" poly tubing *to reach down the dipstick tube and tranny.)  I can suck out every drop in the corner of the pan.

Once I am done, they get tossed  - no muss no fuss.
The pump, spare hoses, filter, etc., fit nicely in a hinged plastic shoebox snap-close box.

In the past, I have used ONLY dino oil, not synthetic, and ONLY T1.  As this becomes harder to find I might have to change my mind on that.

I find that a motorcycle filter wrench (metal band type) is the easiest to use, but others' mileage may vary.  I used one from K Mart since 1994 and I wouldn't change that on a bet.

Some drive a screwdriver hole in the filter to drain oil before removing it.  Makes a lot of sense but I have not tried it.
 
As Noah said, lightly oil the gasket.  I do not fill it beforehand (messy.)   Just contact it plus 1/4 turn (= hand tight.)

Here also is some tips for filling the tranny -- ""Full" but not "Overfull"".)
https://groups.io/g/Catalina30/wiki/11617

Ken

   

HIN location -

https://www.c34.org/faq-pages/faq-hin.html

It will start with CTNYP nnnn but could be worn down and nearly unreadable.

On the C34.org home page there is a Google enhanced search box that is sometimes more helpful than the search feature on the Forum.  On the bottom starboard side of the page.

This is on a phone but it's nearly the same on a PC browser:

Perfect      

Any gauge that follows the 240-33 ohm Stewart Warner gauge convmention will work.  Even from your local auto parts.  It should be water/fogging resistant

https://defender.com/en_us/catalogsearch/result/?q=fuel%20gauge

["S" wire to the starter]

Hi Stu,

I just think you may have missed what I said in my post.  Your head is wrapped around GPs because it's "a relay."  Just forget about the GPs, it had nothing to do w/ them. 
This is all about the (yellow/red) "S" wire to the starter (see his pics.)

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Thx, Ken, I thought you were replying to my last post, not to the OP.  All clear now.

Stu - YES, I WAS replying to your post which was all about the GP relay. 

I was not replying to the OP - he completely understood what I explained about the S wire.

[35B Cut Sheet]

@Breathing Room

If you look at the 35B Cut Sheet in the TechWiki Manuals https://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals, it shows the bracket for the engine and panel circuit breaker positioned above the Bell Housing, between the Air Filter and the Hx.

The Owner's Manual states it is on the LEFT side of the engine, but obviously (and not shocking when it comes to Westerbeke) look for it on the RIGHT side.

["S" wire to the starter]

What "is not a preheat solenoid/relay?"  Honest question, I don't understand what you're saying here, and I know you're not calling me stupid. 

Hi Stu,

I just think you may have missed what I said in my post.  Your head is wrapped around GPs because it's "a relay."  Just forget about the GPs, it had nothing to do w/ them. 
This is all about the (yellow/red) "S" wire to the starter (see his pics.)

In your case the "S" wire is used to energize the coil in the relay, which pulls the switch closed and energizes the Starter Solenoid.

You should trash it and run a yellow #10 "S" wire (yellow, run a red sharpie down it) to replace the OEM #16 gauge "S" wire.
https://groups.io/g/Catalina30/wiki/7401

The PO (apparently) installed the relay because the OEM 16 ga "S" wire (and maybe the Gummy Bears? maybe low V on the panel feed wire?) caused low voltage at the Solenoid "S" terminal and the PO had starting issues.  So instead of simply running a new #10 "S" wire, he installed this convoluted system.

ipso, disconnect the relay and run a new, #10, "S" wire to eliminate the V loss!
That's why I compared -- using this system (to overcome V loss in the "S" wire) -- would be like running a heavy charge cable up to/back from the panel (to overcome V loss) instead of switching the Ammeter to a Voltmeter.

(unknown if he already has one or wants one, but he could reuse the relay install for the GPs (you know, that totally unnecessary GP mod ]

@Breathing Room

Ok, the 35B has a 20a push-button breaker on the engine.  Your Parts Manual shows it on page 43 and it's mounted near the fuel pump — but the Owner's Manual has no picture of it.

Doesn't your engine panel have a breaker as well?

Otherwise I would pull the panel and troubleshoot with a multimeter.  There might be a shorted terminal or a crossed wire!

I'm guessing that Gulf has an M35BC engine?? (from his hull #)

A thought

Ron

If that's the case he might have shorted out a terminal replacing the panel and popped the 20a push button breaker on the engine.
The Parts Manual shows where it is (on a bracket on the engine —— quite expectedly the Westerbeke manual doesn't include a picture of what to look for.)

Doesn't his panel also have a breaker?

What engine?  Such things are many times more  determined by the installed engine than the boat mk/yeare.

You can put the engine info in your signature, and has any harness upgrading Bern done?

Some engines/boats/panels had protection at the panel, some at the engine, some none at all.