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Messages - KWKloeber

#61
Quote from: Jon W on November 17, 2023, 03:22:09 PM
Hi Ken, I think the Manuals link is working correctly now. Give it a try.

Hey Jon
It does point to the Manuals page now.  Thx

The link is in there as an "external" source, ipso:
* [https://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals Manuals]

However to be consistent with all the other links on the wiki main page, it should be:
* [[Manuals]]
#62
Unable to tell from the post the limitations with your cover but options would seem to be bungee cords, webbing straps, line, putting protection (easy) under the cleats, etc.
Over the years I've removed them (nylon messingers) and also simply buried them in the mast and the remainder coiled/hung from the mast or boom) instead of total removal, and left them in place, twisted to prevent slapping (if interrupting airflow they are unable to resonate and don't slap.)
#63
Quote from: Jon W on November 16, 2023, 02:27:35 PM
Should be fixed now. After a lot of effort Dave traced it down to an old/broken flickr plug-in that's now disabled.

Ken, I asked Dave to look into the Manuals link problem you pointed out.

Thx Jon!
You can ket him know that its simply that the Manuals link on the wiki home page points to the okd WP version and needs to point the same as all the other topics do.
#64
Main Message Board / Re: Exhaust leak
November 13, 2023, 06:35:17 PM
Hmmm... I'd see if it would work to glass in 1-5/8" vernatube inside the 2" tubes.  That would be simpler than using hose adapters.  Or if there's a 1-5/8" x ?? adapter that would fit (glass onto) the outside of 2" stubs.

Understand that because it's a side-in, the volume isn't the entire container like your current top-in or CD's. 
Also, unless you install it rotated as Bill did, when heeled it will dump right out the inlet.



#65
Main Message Board / Re: Exhaust leak
November 13, 2023, 06:08:13 PM
Aqualift is no longer made.  If it's "new" and round you're looking at Northern Lights or Centek.
#66
Main Message Board / Re: Exhaust leak
November 13, 2023, 02:31:06 PM
Centek makes nice fiberglass adapters. 

I don't know the particulars of a C34, but if I recall correctly from Bill's project wouldn't there be a height limitation?

Wouldn't getting an adapter plus the injection wye plus hump hose to fit be an issue?

Is it a Centek brand waterlift?
#67
Main Message Board / Re: air intake silencer
November 13, 2023, 09:07:32 AM
Pete

There were two different ones - the coffee can below (*appears* to be your left, bottom half) and horn style (right, top half?).
There is a KN option which I've never used (doesn't fit my C30 engine compartment.)
Regardless which way you go be sure to run the crankcase breather hose (top of valve cover) to the intake.
There's several ways to do it - see the TechWiki > Engine or here:
https://groups.io/g/Catalina30/wiki/26707
You can also carefully drill/tap the intake manifold for a hose barb.


#68
Quote

the the pink stuff is NOT for the engine winterization



Using P. Glycol (pink stuff) is exactly what Winterization 101 states.   Diluting it 50% (!!!) before pumping it thru to the exhaust isn't the best practice -- it will already get diluted when you mix it with what's in the system.

Just looking for "pink stuff" out the exhaust is NOT reliable to verify you have the level of protection required for YOUR climate.  No one's eye is calibrated to say if there's 50%, 75%, or 100% of -50F or -100F P. Glycol in there, so please do not do that unless you are in the mildest climate.   JUST drain her!   But, if you INSIST on using AF instead of the easier method of draining dry, capture the discharge and test it (specific gravity) or visually, by comparing it to undiluted P. Glycol (example pic from Rodd Collins below.)
https://forums.sailboatowners.com/threads/winterizing.175307/#post-1248751

Rodd's vid is here (the first part pertains to getting her up to temp; the very last part pertains to actually running thru the P. Glycol.)
https://youtu.be/PKky09u1fGU?si=3lBHzx4T8LBxdqmJ
#69
Main Message Board / Re: Exhaust leak
November 12, 2023, 02:31:02 PM
Quote from: junaido on November 12, 2023, 01:58:53 PM
Quote from: Ron Hill on November 12, 2023, 12:56:30 PM
Jun : You own the leaking muffler, I'd try to patch it before buying a new one!!
I am definitely in favor of repairing the one I have. Getting that thing out from under the sink is going to be tough...

I know there's post about getting it out - not as difficult as it appears but then it's not my fingers, knuckles, bandages, and Neosporin.

I'm thinking that I'd start with a Dremel and cutoff wheel to cut through the seam.
#70
Quote from: Ted Pounds on November 11, 2023, 10:07:27 AM

I would NOT let that highly toxic green stuff anywhere near my potable water....
And if you're winterizing the engine with it and letting dump on the ground you're poisoning the environment and violating federal law.


Absolutely!

And if green stuff is left anywhere in the seawater system (e.g., muffler) or drained and left in the bilge -- then into the waterway it goes on the first run or bilge dump.

Using ANY antifreeze on the seawater side -- PER the MANUAL itself  -- is NOT necessary.
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,11509.msg92909.html#msg92909
"To drain sea water system, disconnect hose end at sea water pump that comes from heat
exchanger. Lower free end of hose to a point approximately level with the front engine mount. This will allow the sea water to drain from heat exchanger and hoses.  Loosen the 4 or 6 screws on the sea water pump cover plate. Tap the plate lightly to loosen it, this will allow pump to drain. After pump has drained, apply a light coat of lubrication to protect pump and impeller during storage and replace cover.  Drain exhaust muffler and system separately."


Folks have said that they use the "simple" method of pumping AF (pink or otherwise) thru -- it "ONLY" tasks a half day to winterize (had been said.) Why waste the time, and AF (which you dump onto the ground then drain out of the seawater system after pumping it in?  Not logical common sense. 
#71
Main Message Board / Re: Exhaust leak
November 12, 2023, 10:56:30 AM
Quote from: junaido on November 12, 2023, 12:09:37 AM
Quote from: KWKloeber on November 11, 2023, 11:02:50 PM
I "fixed" mine 2x (seam) before replacing it with a stainless can muffler.
Where did you find the stainless can muffler? Thanks.

It was a salvage from another boat - a marina I was visiting at the time had it in its yard. Probably was a CS-36 which used that particular 6" muffler on a Westerbeke W30.  The volume is considerably less but it has worked fine for my setup.
I think the C34 has a considerable vertical distance on the exhaust hose so IIWMB, I'd hesitate using one that small.  Other than than backflow volume it would work identically to the oem muffler.

See the wiki Engine>Exhaust for Bill Shreeves' article and his Centek 8x8 muffler that AFAIK still works fine. 
The new Aqualift replacement is probably the best choice but is available only through CD. $$$$    2x what it should cost.
You could ask Centek for a quote on a custom size but it would need to be different enough from the CD version otherwise they'll just tell you contact CD.
#72
Yeah that's a little more than surface corrosion!
Might ask the CTY factory?
#73
Main Message Board / Re: Exhaust leak
November 11, 2023, 11:02:50 PM
The oem aqualift was not constructed to today's standard and is notorious for:
   - Crushed inlet and outlet tubes
   - Leaks developing in the seam where the bottom is afixed to the top.

I "fixed" mine 2x (seam) before replacing it with a stainless can muffler.

Had I completely separated the two halves I'm confident I could have permanently fixed the seam.   I had reinforced a partially crushed inlet with a piece of aluminum tubing that I had hanging around that was a press-fit into the tube.  Not great using aluminum but I would have eventually replaced it with s/s tubing.

There's an article I posted on the TechWiki showing a C30 owner who repaired his aqualift. 

The new muffler from CD is a quality item, built by Centek.

No, you can't simply hook the hoses together - you need a waterLIFT muffler.
#74
At first, I thought that it was happening just on a "device" because I'd been away from the laptop for several weeks.  Just now I see that it is happening on both Chrome and Safari browsers and, unlike on my "devices," cannot X out of the black screen of death.
#75
Dave

I recalled seeing what Ron did to retrofit
https://www.c34.org/projects/projects-rudder-modification.htm

How bad is the corrosion? Pix? Is the second area in a critical location?

If there's not water intrusion into the core, could the corroded surface of the rudder stock be resurfaced using devcon to save what you have and do a retrofit to elliptical?

I'm cheap and always trying to fix over replace  8)

PS- I think there's a typo in your signature tag line!