Messages

Juan,

I used 8 AWG, with heavy duty "starter" lugs (1/4" and M8).  Power lugs are overkill.

RC recommends 6 AWG because he says there's no good crimper for no. 8 lugs.

Don't forget also about grounding the alternator frame ground (#10 stud) to the bell housing (M8 bolt.)


Ken K

APOLOGIES
- the NAPA p/n is 610-1086  for the Facet in-pump filter.


The other number below is an in-line filter that can be used with the Facet cube pumps.

Ken

The filter on our cylinder type Facet pumps is NAPA p/n 610-1085, about 9 boat bucks a copy.

Ken

The filter on our cylinder type Facet pumps is NAPA p/n 610-1085, about 9 boat bucks a copy.

Ken

You must freeze the bearing overnight (do not super cooo w/ dry ice!) to reduce the diameter and push it in as quickly as you can.  Those instruction should have been with the bearing and the yard jockeys should know that.

Set screws are belt and suspenders, bearing is still a press fit.

Replacing my conduit with a larger size and rivetind it was tedious but easy by tipping the spar so the conduit nestled "into the groove" while pop riveting.  Went slow and deliberate, one by one and doubled the number.

One woulda shoulda that I didn't --- an occasional coupling will more than double the bite on holding w longer rivets.into the heavier wall section.  Securely fasten the top w/ additional\closely spaced rivets so flapping doesn't get a place to take hold.

Ken

Not to start something here that's off-subject, but the best thing you can do, is clip the fuse, butt splice the wire, and install a fuse at the other end of the harness or a circuit breaker on the panel. 

That solenoid wire is totally non-compliant, as is the older panel circuits.  A fuse at the LOAD end?  Shame! 
It needs to be at the power supply end.  What does the fuse do if there's chafing and a short develops between the panel and solenoid?  Nothing but remain intact as a fire starts.

There should also be a 30a in-line fuse on the 12v+ supply wire to the panel, within 7" of the solenoid post, and a 20a fuse or breaker on the feed for any 16ga wire carrying current back to the engine (egs, fuel pump, alt field exciter) but is unnecessary on the ground wires (egs, temp sender, oil pressure switch.)

Ken

A rotary cutter  (eg  rotozip) works very well and doesn't chip.  It works best if you can use it against a straight edge.

ken k

I have ordered a teak louvered door 12in x 12in. I am going to place it for easier access to the storage under the V-Breth.  I will need to cut a hole in the V-Berth.

What type of blade should I use? I plan on cutting it with jig saw. Any ideas on how to cut, I am afraid the plastic will start vibrate and maybe split.  I do not what to mess this up. Any thoughts or suggestion would be greatly appreciate.

Thanks
Brad

[Yeaaaaah!]

Group,

Yeaaaaah! SmartPlug backorders are filled so they are IN STOCK!

For any who have not followed this, last fall I started looking into a group purchase for "my" C30 group, and later approached Stu (and other Catalina groups) about dragging in their members to get the best participation/pricing thru SmartPlug.   

But SmatPlugs have been on a serious back order.

I have contact info for those who previously emailed that they want a SmartPlug and I'll be emailing them the details.
SO, if you don't get an email by next week, then I didn't get your original one - please re-send.

If anyone ELSE wants a SmartPlug retrofit kit (B30ASSY) for their existing cord, or a new cord (25' or 50') plus inlet, please email me ASAP.

I'm not broadcasting the cost here because of MAP, but it will be a better price than Defender.
PLUS I worked out a special incentive from SmartPlug for Catalina groups -- a FREE weather cap with every retro kit or new cord/inlet combo.

This is going to be a ONE TIME offer for the Catalina groups, so if you want in -- beg, borrow, steal, smash the piggy bank, or put off the new sail for a while.

***This is for paid-up Catalina group members***

If you DID NOT previously email me ... do so ASAP (serious only, please  -  I already get way too many emails!)

Cheers,
Ken Kloeber
C-30 #3573

KWKloeber@aol.com ?subject=SmartPlug group purchase
KWKloeber.at.aol.dot.com[/b]

Posting this for someone else...

Is there an easy way to reinstall the XP starter solenoid switch and get the hook engaged? 
With the mounting studs being in the way, you can't easily angle the switch to engage the yoke. 

Can it be done with the starter installed, or should it be "on the  bench."

Thanks,
Ken K

The snap ring is totally not necessary.  I went 'round with the Ob techie  10 years ago about this until he admitted there it is not necessary and  has no function as far as  when the pump is in service.

The only function is has is to keep the shaft from falling out when the pump is in stock, or is removed from the engine.


Ken Kloeber

JTSO
Hundreds of thousands of yachts have been produced with pressure water hookups (mostly power).  With all those still on the water that are poised to sink (that haven't already,) we shouldn't be worried about global warming and ocean rise.  We'll be inundated.

Seriously?  Gasoline and boats don't mix. Boats burn and tanks explode. Ban internal combustion engines on the water.

You can't fix stupid and when their's sinks, that's one less stupid on the water for the remainder of us.
There's safety systems and procedures and common sense solutions without yelling the sky's gonna fall.

Hit something and compromise the hull, and a bilge pump isn't gonna keep up. Solution? Stay at the dock.

JTSO

Stu,

I know someone who may have one.  Have hin PM me off list.  Whats 'expected' no less 2x?

Ken K
KWKloeber.at.aol.dot.com

[Hi List,So far I have 15 or so in for a discount purchase of the SmartPlug.]

Hi List,

So far I have 15 or so in for a discount purchase of the SmartPlug.





Most want the plug + inlet retrofit kit.
http://smartplug.com/products/inletandconnector.html

A few want an inlet plus a new cordset.
http://smartplug.com/products/inlet.html
http://smartplug.com/products/cordsets.html


I'm hoping to finalize this ASAP... is there anyone else interested?

I'm really surprised - I was expecting a lot more would want to protect their investment.  
One look at RC's pics of burnt up twist locks convinced me (well that along with my dockside connector smoking     )

If anyone additional wants in, please email me OFF LIST (so I can get the highest number and the best price.)  

KWKloeber.at.aol.dot.com
KWKloeber@aol.com


Those that emailed AND got my reply -- no need to email again.
If I DID NOT reply, it probably went to spam so please try again.

I'm hoping that the kit will be in the $160 range.
Obviously no commitment until the final pricing is set, but I also would like to keep it to fairly committed numbers and avoid rudder kickers.


Cheers,
Ken Kloeber

Looking over posts, there seems to controversy whether the K50 mounts are too soft to use on the M-25XP.

Is there a consensus on which to use, or any owner recommendations / horror stories? 
Likewise, experience with another mount?

Note also that the hard connection to the muffler will be removed -- with a new exhaust riser and soft connection to a new muffler as well.

Thanks,
Ken K

[SMART PLUG]

RC,


Great article and telling pictures and analysis of the contacts!!

Sad that the shore sides will not change (very rapidly, at least), even if SP gets it approved for that.

Just wondering, will changing to the SP inlet (lower resistance voltage) result in an increase in current and more potential issues at the power stanchions?  At least that will be on the dock and not our boats!

Ken K
 

Guys,

I am working on an article about Smart Plugs vs. the antiquated NEMA L5-30 standard. I will be talking with Terry & Ken about a possible discount code when the article is done. It is far from done and I am being held up by weather as I need some more installation pics. Despite my thousands of images I don't always have my camera or more frequently my SD card with me.

The article is NOT YET fit for public display but if you would like to see it develop the link is here:

SMART PLUG

It is currently password protected so use the password until it is done: smart