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Messages - KWKloeber

#4921
Vic,

Do you have the alternator upgrade bracket, do you have the oem 55 amp alternator?   -- that makes a difference on the length.

I am a Westerbeke parts dealer - my distributor recommends the Dayco Top Cog belt.  IMHO, it is the best belt you can buy for our applications under our conditions.  It is much better than bottom-cog belts (JTSO.)

I switched on Westerbeke's recommendation 10 years ago on my M-25 and will never go back to the other style.  The Top Cog runs cooler because there's more belt in contact with the pulleys (heat dissipation), and with more in contact there's less slippage also (so less wear.)  The Top Cog for the M25 and XP  is 0.44" wide, and that's what the Westerbeke distributor recommended.

I have belt numbers but hesitate to post them because there is apparently some variance in which fits the  XP.  If you give me your current belt outside circumference,  I can tell you which Dayco Top Cog belt matches that length.

You can also do a dimensional look up here.  Just enter "close" numbers -  it will return a list of options.
http://www.daycoproducts.com/online-catalog-1?part_type=30

and a part interchange look up here... (bottom left box)
http://www.daycoproducts.com/online-catalog

I highly recommend that  belt - Advance auto carries Dayco - and others do also I'm sure.

Cheers,
Ken
#4922
Hey Stu,

I couldn't find it in the engine section or I would have added this note...

We have to be cautious of ordering Kubota parts for the Universal engines based on tractor model numbers.  The tractor model numbers are a guide,  but are not absolute.  There are parts that are different between different versions of a given tractor model. 

For one example, the gear case cover and some of it's component parts differ between the tractors with gear drive versus hydrostatic drive that have the M-25 and M-25XP equivalent engines (Kubota D850, D950 engines).  Although both of two covers are used on the base 850/950 block, the two parts used on the different type tractor drives CANNOT be interchanged.   The configuration of the oil filter receivers are vastly different.  The gear-driven model fits the Universal engines, the hydrostatic model cover does not.

That's just one example that I have lived through, and there are likely other differences in parts interchangeability within a given tractor model, and also for tractors that have variants of the newer Universal B-series engines.

-Ken K
#4923
Main Message Board / Re: Bad head seacock?
June 28, 2014, 08:53:41 PM
I'm wondering if it is bad/leaking joker valve -- does the  water continue coming in while pumping,  or just the first stroke like it's been sitting in the pump cylinder?

Ken
#4924
Main Message Board / Re: M35BC engine coolant pump
June 25, 2014, 08:00:36 PM
Which Kubota engine block or tractor model is that engine built on?

Kk
#4925
Main Message Board / Re: Intake out of the water?
June 25, 2014, 07:53:51 PM
If your heal is such that the intake is above the WL, you have more pressing issues, like no oil getting to the oil pemp, your transmission fluid, etc!!
#4926
Main Message Board / Re: F R E E
June 24, 2014, 07:12:21 AM
Kevin, I emailed you about the hatches. 

Ken K
#4927
Just note that RC has cautioned that the glow plugs are 10 volt so the long cockpit run is not necessariky a bad thing.  With the gkow plug slave relay installalled, make sure they aren't fired up much more than 10 secs at a time or life can be shortened.

Kk
#4928
Main Message Board / Re: Oil pressure alarm is gone
June 24, 2014, 12:05:46 AM
Juan,

The switch may have gone bad, or the light blue harness wire to the switch is open, or the circuit board is bad.

If you ground the terminal on the sender/wire end (located above the starter and a bear to get to) the alarm should sound.  If not the alarm is probably bad - Seaward had a circuit board that powered both the temp (from the gauge sender) and oil alarms, but it's no longer available.  There's a dual (light/buzzer) alarm avail that both the oil pressure and newer temperature SWITCH, not gauge sender can be hooked to.  The thought is if it alarms, shut down no matter the cause -- and just ck the temp gauge to know which is alarming.

Note that there's a Wb Service Bulletin out on the correct socket to remove/install the oil sender without damaging it.

Note also that the oil switch is a normally closed contact, and is 1/8" british / JIS pipe thread, not 1/8" NPT.  It's available at Autozone, though I don't have the p/n. Maybe they can cross it to the Kubota p/n.  I extended mine out a couple inches so it clears the exhaust manifold (and added a tee and sender for a pressure gauge.)  If it is extended, it can be fashioned to either retain the JIS thread, or with NPT thread (so more readily common NPT oil pressure switches can be used.)


Ken
#4929
Main Message Board / Re: 2 line reefing
June 17, 2014, 07:18:02 PM
Yes line runs on the other side....  have you seen this?

c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Reefing


KK
#4930
Are the steps wide enough to use 1" stainess pipe clamps to hold them on, and run flat head tapping screws tbrough them and into the tubing to keep steps from 'twisting' on the tube?

Otherwise my brackets were just flat s/s bar welded to the tubes.


Ken

#4931
Main Message Board / Re: Wire size
June 09, 2014, 08:28:31 PM
Why will they charge more efficiently?

Ken


Quote from: claygr on June 08, 2014, 07:28:06 PM
Blue Sea Systems has an excellent chart and an online tool for determining the wire size.  You'll need to know the amp output of your alternator and the distance between the alternator and the starter. 

As an alternative, you might consider removing that jump wire and running the AO directly to your house battery bank.  Your batteries will recharge more efficiently and you won't need to worry about frying your alternator diodes if someone turns the switch to or through "off." 
#4932
Main Message Board / Re: Wire size
June 09, 2014, 08:21:05 PM
Juan,

I used 8 AWG, with heavy duty "starter" lugs (1/4" and M8).  Power lugs are overkill.

RC recommends 6 AWG because he says there's no good crimper for no. 8 lugs.

Don't forget also about grounding the alternator frame ground (#10 stud) to the bell housing (M8 bolt.)


Ken K
#4933
APOLOGIES
- the NAPA p/n is 610-1086  for the Facet in-pump filter.


The other number below is an in-line filter that can be used with the Facet cube pumps.

Ken

Quote from: KWKloeber on June 07, 2014, 03:50:23 PM
The filter on our cylinder type Facet pumps is NAPA p/n 610-1085, about 9 boat bucks a copy.

Ken
#4934
The filter on our cylinder type Facet pumps is NAPA p/n 610-1085, about 9 boat bucks a copy.

Ken
#4935
You must freeze the bearing overnight (do not super cooo w/ dry ice!) to reduce the diameter and push it in as quickly as you can.  Those instruction should have been with the bearing and the yard jockeys should know that.

Set screws are belt and suspenders, bearing is still a press fit.