Messages

Michael
The N202M-908 was about $380,

Maybe if there's enough demand the price will come down, but right now I'm pretty sure the only place you can buy them is DEPCO so it's not likely that'll happen soon.

Mannn, I wish you guys would come to me to save some cash -- w/ the Cat Assn discount the M-908 is $367, the M-16 pump, $253.

The reason the list IS 408, is because the demand IS HIGH - to use it instead of the Sherwood 908.  The price would come down if owners refuse to pay that premium and the demand then goes low.


kk

Chuck,

Shouldn't be an issue running the engine and looking - first get some paper towels or absorbent pads or flat container under the suspected leak spots, could even tape something in place to catch runs.  I hate to ask - was your bilge pump working!?!?

ken

Mick,

The 908 came out last Oct or Sept.  The problem I have with it, is that

(1) it still used the stupid clip system, that if they were going to be used, Westerbeke should have designed them better so that they actually fit the round base of the Sw pump (and now Ob 908.)  and

(2) Ob is raping everyone on that pump (just because it can due to Westerbeke's monopoly price on the G-908.)  The M908 is a  N202M-16 pump -- but before Ob drills the base, they machine it.  Identical pumps.   Approx $140 more for the 908.  That's a lot of boat bucks for a little surgery on an M-16 pump.  I've been trying to buy undrilled M-16 pump bodies and making my own w/ surgery.

If going with the M908, I would install studs and use stainless nylock flange nuts (I came up w/ a kit w/ studs and nuts for that.)  I don't like threading bolts and torquing into that gear cover.


Ken

Our boat is 30 minutes travel from home, so I like to be prepared before heading to the boat to work on a project.

The engine temp gauge is not working, can someone point out where on the engine the temp sensor is located.

Is it a block temp sensor or coolant temp sensor and where is it located.

I was thinking of installing something like this

Thanks.

Paul

What does not working entail?  Dead?  gauge pinned low?  gauge pinned high?
If you search on "gauge troubleshooting" on the TechWiki, there's a guide I had posted.

See the below for the location of the temp gauge sender - on the front of the thermostat cap, 1/4" NPT thread port.

Do you still have the gummy bear plug at either end of the engine-to-cockpit panel harness?

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Ken

All that said, I'd rather be on the hard when snapping a keel bolt than in the water! 

After rebedding my keel with 5200 when I reattached, I believe that I could remove and eBay the nuts for some cash for the next project 

kk

I just read the post from Indian falls from a couple years ago when he lowered and then re bedded his keel.  Interestly enough he reports he lifted the keel using the bolts with no problem.  I guess mechanical advantage works!

We're not saying that MA doesn't work.  What we're saying is that the setting of 110 ft-lbs of a hanging keel, won't have the same net effect as 110 ft-lbs of torque on a supported keel.   We'll call 'net effect' the psi compression of the keel joint.  What torque would you use to get the same net effect?  

kk

Maybe I don't understand something.

The specified torque is not for under load, it's for as neutral a condition as you can reasonable block the boat.
if you think that in the cradle. the aft bolts are under tension a little, what do you think you would have with the keel hanging???  Under tension A LOT.

SO, with the assembly already under tension, you would need to loosen the nuts in order to set the torque to 110 ft-lbs or whatever.  That's why I asked -- What torque setting would you use?

Torquing the nuts to the factory spec, while under tension (presuming that could even do it,) will do absolutely nothing toward getting them to the proper torque.  They would be way under torqued.

Ken K

And what torque would you use with a hunk of lead and firebrick hanging from the nuts?

Properly blocked, torque it with as much weight off the bolts as you can.

Ken

Hi Ken

It seems to be on the same post as the heavy red battery cable is on also. 

Gary

Ok, that's good but backasswards.  It should be red or orange, black is for negatives.  Dontcha just love POs.  Just to be complient I would give both ends a wrap of red electrical tape or heat shrink tubing.

Ken

Ken,

Here's another thought. 

If you kept the 120-v power going to the control location, you could use a simple high voltage heating-only thermostat w/ one feed (+ neutral and earth) to power everything at the AC (pump, compressor, fan.)   

Connect the TStat to a normally-closed relay

-- When the temp goes below "X", the TStat powers the relay to trip open, and shuts off the AC. 

-- When the temp goes above "X", the TStat powers down and the relay goes dead (back to normally closed,) and powers up the AC.  The relay would just need to be sized for the 120-v load of the compressor + fan + pump.

Ken

ken,

1st I am at a loss because I don't have AC and am not familiar with your control unit, so I may be off base on some things... but here goes..


The 7 wires from your control to the AC, are 120-volt, and I don't see any relays on the schematic.  And two of the three connections to the thermostat part itself of the control unit are 120-v; can't tell what the 3rd is.  So it appears?? that the actual thermostat is high voltage.

The household A/C-heat TStats are, as you say, low voltage @ 24-v , and they turn on and off relays for the high voltage fan, compressor, etc. that are located inside the AC/furnace.  There are high voltage thermostats, but only for heat not A/C, as far as I know. 

I don't know if the Honeywell TStats will work on 12 volt, rather than 24-v.  It probably will, but you'd need to install 12-v relays for the Tstst to turn on the fan, compressor, pump - or maybe it could be done with one relay.  The 120-v power runs to the control, not to the AC, so the relays would need to be near the control/thermostat.  or the 120-v power could be re-routed to the A/C, and the relays installed there (so the wires from the control to the A/C would then become low voltage and simply trip the relays.

I notice that the Ocean Breeze QU311 digital control contains relays right at the TStat, bso would appear to be a replacement for you current analog control   Again I don't see any evidence of relays on the info that you scanned to me for your current control.  The QU500 digital control doesn't show any relays -- they must be on the A/C unit.

I hope this helps some at this point.

ken

Is she too grimy to just use Colonite cleaner on the gel coat?

Ken

Thanks for all you help and support

Checked the cockpit and I have the voltmeter ; I looked at the alternator and there is a red wire coming from the alternator but can't tell where it is going.   Also there is a thicker black wire that is going from the alternator to the starter .

Still looking for the gummy bear plugs and the wiring harness.  I'll try to get pictures. 

The alternator adjusting bracket is below so that is an upgrade.

So I think I'm ok but will try to confirm the other issues

Gary

Good news Gary about the voltmeter and alternator bracket.   You could still have the old plugs, but with the voltmeter, it's more likely they were eliminated.  It would be good to know if the engine and cockpit harness wires are each butt-crimped together, or if you have the terrible terminal strip installed.

The alternator - does the heavy black go to the same post that your heavy red battery cable is on (actully on the solenoid switch for the starter)?  or does it run to a ground (a bolt on the starter motor itself)?

Ken

I was planning on using a Honeywell purchased at Lowes.  Connections are labeled B, O, G, Y, W, R, Rc  But no explanation what each of those mean, standard colors used in the house application.

Email on the way

Ken,

Is the Lowes T-stat you're looking at a low voltage or household voltage?

Ken

Ok, of the 7 conductors on the AC, we have the below functions.

Can you find find out anything on the honeywell t-stat connections? Model number?

A/C:
Brown - heater element so we can discount
Blue   - ditto

green - obviously earth ground

red -  compressor ON
white - neutral to compressor

yellow -  Fan (possibly neutral?)
orange - ditto (possibly power?)

The pump is wired to the thermostat (white/purple), separate from the harness connections.


Ken