Messages

I was thinking of installing something like this

Thanks.

Paul

That link is an alarm, and you already have an alarm (driven by the temp switch on the thermostat cap.)  If the alarm isn't working as well, you can replace it with a Cole-Hersee dual alarm/light that mounts thru the panel, or simply a piezo alarm from Radio Shack. My guess is that the alarm is working.

kk

BTW, that's a Japanese engine! Good luck screwing an american' NPT-thread sensor into JIS / BSP threads!     That's why some engines had bolt on sensors on the exhaust manifold.

kk

Thanks guys,

The Gauge seems to be reading a max of 2 indents from the lower limit (not sure what temp that is without going down to the boat to look closely)

Other than not being able to find where the wires run, I should not have a problem testing the wiring.

I'm going to follow the links suggested to see where they go.

Paul

So, it's reading LOW. 
Again, do you still have the gummy bear plugs in place at the engine and/or cockpit ends of the wiring harness?

See reasons for inaccurate gauge readings, and how to verify:
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8493.msg59876.html#msg59876


kk

I was thinking of installing something like this

Thanks.

Paul

That link is an alarm, and you already have an alarm (driven by the temp switch on the thermostat cap.)  If the alarm isn't working as well, you can replace it with a Cole-Hersee dual alarm/light that mounts thru the panel, or simply a piezo alarm from Radio Shack. My guess is that the alarm is working.

kk

Thanks,
I hope to get the chance to test them today, will just short them to earth and should get full deflection at the gauges.

If not, then I'll take the control panel off and short them C to earth there that should tell me if I need to replace the Gauge, Wire or Sensors.

Paul

Again, the one with the slide on "Packard 56" terminal is not a temp sender -- and has nothing to do with the gauge.  It's a switch that closes around 200F, completes a circuit, and sounds the alarm.  The sender with the post terminal is the gauge sender.  Check it per the troubleshooting guide I posted for resistance before you pull the panel.

kk

Jack,  It was the fresh water.  Took the sheet metal off and found it to be a corroded tank.  I was surprised to find that when the tank was drained by the drain valve it still retained lot of water.  The drain valve is a couple of inches from the bottom.  That water sits in the tank even after winterized.
Jim

That's exactly happened to mine (2nd leak) after 25 years.  They don't make anything that lasts anymore dammit.  Just like the darn Facet duel lift pumps that run only 30 years before they die.

kk

It is definitely coolant leaking.  The coolant tubes connection into the tank itself are barbs just pushed in?  Is there some kind of seal or rubber/flexible fitting?

The ends of the coolant loop tube (err... warmant loop) terminates in rolled-into shape hose barbs. 
The tube, as I recall (CRS) is welded where it inzits and outzits the potable water tank.

kk

Question, could there be a leak at the heat exchange tube going into the water tank?  What is that connection, welded, screwed in etc, as I can not see it without completely pulling the tank.  Any one had a similar problem?

Jack

Yes I have had leaks (on a C30)  in both the coolant inlet (or was it outlet? CRS) due to old tank/corrosion AND also at the potable water inlet (frozen and busted the weld - but was able to have my welder buddy repair it.) the coolant inzie/outzie are hose barbs tubes, not threaded fittings.   The potable water in/outzie are FNPT threaded.  When I replaced mine (the corrosion leak was not worth fixing on the 25 year old WH, so I replaced it) I cut the barb ends off the coolant tubes and (I think - CRS again)  used SharkBite fittings (I needed to make a 90 bend right off the tank.)

Sorry, can't help you on the removal on a 34.  
KK

Hello,

One of my rope clutches wont stay open when you push back the the rope clutch.  You have to manually push and hold the tab all the way down to keep it open. I have looked all over the rope clutch and no brand name or any lables on it what so ever.  Checked my manuals and looked on this forum, cant find anything.  They are blackish grey colour, Almost a gun metal finish. Any suggestions? Its at mkII, 2003.

Thanks

bean:  check to see if they look like these?
http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=36
(click on the small photos to enlarge)

ken

Our M35 has an annoying ticking sound at idle and I am presuming the valves need adjusting.   On the sea trial last year our surveyor did not think it was anything to be concerned about but to is beginning to bug me.   

The actual adjusting procedure is straight forward enough but what I am unsure of is how best to turn over an engine with no compression release and no accessible hex nut to turn with a wrench.   The 30mm nut on the crank shaft has a bent up keeper that precludes using a wrench.   The 18mm splined shaft offers a possibility if I manufacture an adapter or the pulley has three tapped holes that I can adapt to.

OK, there must be a simple solution.   Am I over thinking this one?

My grandfather who owned a garage always said a valve tick on an engine w/o hydraulic adjusters, is one of the sweetest noises you can hear.  It means the valve is closing and the seat not being burned by exhaust gasses.   

YEA!!! I got a reply.  "I am out of office until June 8th" hahahaha.  Well I did get his email right so thank you for your assistance! I'm sure he will get back to me and this well all get done!

Rob

Call him   800-234-8778

Ken

I got a call back from local distributor who said it was $300!??  For a 5 foot tube with couplers?  Sadly The email jacobprince@dometicusa.com came back undeliverable

Jacob.Prince
Jacob [dot] prince@....

The Dometic website has webmail, and a whole page of contact phone numbers, general email addy, and ......

kk

I see no reason why it would shut off. 

I think some bilge pumps will not pump oil/diesel to prevent toxic dumps.  This is from Rule on some of their pumps: "The pump and solid state water sensing switch are in a single, compact housing. The sophisticated switch senses the dielectric properties of water but will not pump oil."

Yes, that's true - but it's the switch that "senses" oil present (i.e., doesn't make contact) on the solid state switches, not the pump itself, and not float switches.  If the float-type was "up," I don't see why the pump would shut down.

kk

Mick, Just shoot me an email or PM, and I'll take care of you.
I'm not trying to use this as a marketing location, so I won't go into specifics -  but I rep for many mfgrs, and I discount to PAID UP members of all Catalina assn groups.

Ken

I hate to ask - was your bilge pump working!?!?

The float switch was up and the pump was switched on on the fuse panel, but it was not pumping when I arrived. I'm assuming the pump automatically shut off because of the diesel. Or it was ruined because of the diesel. I don't know how long the fuel was in the bilge since it had been 2.5 weeks since I had been at the boat.

I see no reason why it would shut off.  Was just hoping you had it "off" for some reason, and it hadn't pumped a bunch of diesel overboard!  The CG frowns on that.

kk

Michael
The N202M-908 was about $380,

Maybe if there's enough demand the price will come down, but right now I'm pretty sure the only place you can buy them is DEPCO so it's not likely that'll happen soon.

Mannn, I wish you guys would come to me to save some cash -- w/ the Cat Assn discount the M-908 is $367, the M-16 pump, $253.

The reason the list IS 408, is because the demand IS HIGH - to use it instead of the Sherwood 908.  The price would come down if owners refuse to pay that premium and the demand then goes low.


kk