Messages

Alex

The old iron body Sherwood G908 is NLA, and the replacement Sw bronze body pump is also discontinued.
Westerbeke has its own "new" round base pump ($$$$)

See
https://groups.io/g/Catalina30/message/114295

Someone on here reportedly installed the JMP —- but shoutouts about it have gone unreturned.

@everyone

On the water heater (Seaward, Attwood, etc.) the Hot is always the higher of the two.  If they are at the same level then it doesn't matter.

Thanks shower sump pump working great - just need to turn on the switch in the head AND the C/B.

Okay now another issue -

Wife was using water as we were doing a deep cleaning on the interior. I refilled the tank. I left the water pump on when I did it. Now the water gurgles, stops and starts out of kitchen and head faucets. I can also hear the water pump running constantly. Did I screw something up?

Thanks!

Sounds to me that you have an air lock at the pressure switch of the pump.

The Wiki site has a water pump troubleshooting guide that I uploaded.
I always check the wiki first for issues/fixes because it's easier searching than the forum posts!!

@Dietrich

<<<the 4-micron secondary engine mounted filter>>>

Where are you getting information that there is a 4-micron, on-engine, secondary filter?
What brand are you saying is 4u?

-Ken

Racor (Parker) recommends against using less than a 10u as the primary filter.

@KWKloeber, that makes sense and I did zip-tie up all the wires so they are nice secure but thank your for your zillion previous posts!   

I don't have the part number of the replacement switch with me, I left the box it came in on Honu, but it is the exact dimensions as the broken one that came off the engine. More importantly, it is rated at the appropriate PSI per the manual.

The brass T is brazed to the bracket, I broke the elbow off that the switch screws into. I was able to use an easy out to extract the broken elbow and just put a new elbow on for the switch then screw the bracket back onto the engine. 

This Autozone switch cap prevents damage to the switch terminals!

https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/oil-pressure-switch-connector/p/duralast-electrical-wire-connector-1053/518356_0_0

Jim

Is it defo that the tube wobbles and it's not the sole that allows movement?

The C-30 dinette layout saloon table has a weak sole "problem" that drove me crazy with table wobble, but I fixed that easy peazy like.

The bracket around the pole is solid, it wobbles inside the bracket. Will try a piece of rubber in there first.

A strip of thin rubber (inner tube?) contact-cemented to the inside of the base?

Not knowing precisely the base/tube form factor, this is a guess: an L bracket bolted to the base with a knob that screws into a threaded hole on, or tightens against the tube? 

See
https://youtu.be/xa78umBAUAc
https://youtu.be/GZQHLvUUyuE
https://youtu.be/BSsAO5yE1Kw

[STIFF AUTO WIRE]

During the install, the oil switch positive wire prong broke off...it must have been bent back and forth in its past as it just fell off.

Luckily my local auto parts store had an elbow and replacement oil switch in stock!

Quick work with an easy out and the new elbow and oil switch installed.

@Moose

I have posted this about a zillion times before. 

The oil pressure switch terminal breaks off because of the STIFF AUTO WIRE that Westerbele uses on a MARINE ENGINE HARNESS instead of flexible MARINE WIRE.

The vibration and movement of the harness wire transfers to the switch terminal and eventually it work hardens and breaks. 

ZIP TIE DOWN the harness so that there is no movement possibly transferred to the switch terminals. 

DO yuo have the aftermarket part number of the replacement switch?  Is it the same length or a "long" form factor?

Isn't the brass tee brazed to the engine bracket?  Or wasn't that "injured" during the mishap?

Jim

Is it defo that the tube wobbles and it's not the sole that allows movement?

The C-30 dinette layout saloon table has a weak sole "problem" that drove me crazy with table wobble, but I fixed that easy peazy like.

Alex

Yup, easy peazy drill n tap / hose barb. 

I done see why others don't go that easy route vs bending into pretzels trying to find the more difficult route of affixing it to the silencer or going team KN.

There's so little gunk do you think it would make much difference if it went to 2 rather than 4 cylinders?

Ken... that is how I'd like to do mine.  On my m35 there are two bosses on the fore and after section of the intake that I suspect would be good spots to thread a nipple to accept the breather hose.  That said, I'd kinda prefer to mount it right in the center of the intake where the silencer attaches.  It seems like it would have better chance of atomizing and getting pulled to each cylinder intake.  Perhaps that will be a winter project.

Thanks, all.  I'll tighten things up, check the voltages at each circuit and perhaps replace the the button as a starting point.

The wiring diagram was in the original owners manual, so not sure what that is about, but will look in the wiki.

Kyle, when the button didn't produce a crank, I tested it using all 3 positions.  All failed.

Rich

Rich

WHAT manual - the title or the publication number, or photo, please?

Rich : Are you sure that you have a 4 cylinder, 35hp, M35B engine?  The reason I ask is because I didn't believe that it was available until 1995!!

A thought

If NOT that explains a lot of things.  If its NOT an "A" or "B" engine then there's a couple things we need to reconsider as far ar what to look for!

[https://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals]

That is not even close to the OEM wiring on the B engines.

The concept is simple, apply 12v to the "S" terminal on the starter.
I said, the schematic and manuals for the M35B are on the Wiki Site.
https://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals

If you are sketchy about following wiring schematics and locating the starter "S" terminal, you need "hands-on guidance." 
Being unsure of what's what, you probably need to get a qualified assistant to help troubleshoot this.

You have about enough energy stored in your battery bank to get hurt or weld something to your starter case if you happen to short out the wrong thing. 

Here's another option for the B engines.

There is a knock-out on the intake manifold that's used for the crankcase breather hose on some Kubota engine applications.
If you zoom in you can see where the hose is attached near the air intake throat.

bypass the panel and START button and apply a good, known 12v directly to the starter solenoid." 

How do I do this?

Have you downloaded the parts and service manuals and wiring schematic for your 35B engine?

To bypass the start switch you would put 12v directly on the "S" Terminal at the starter.  The wiring schematic will help you -- just follow the wiring from the Start PB Switch to the starter and eliminate the possibility of the Start switch or the "S" wire being bad.

You can also get fancy and make up a PB Remote start switch with a terminal to match the starter "S" terminal and an alligator clip or ring terminal to pull a good 12v supply. 

-ken

Note that some of the prior messages talk about a different starter on the (Oshkosh) Universal engines, and although all starters "start", the starter on the (Westerbeke) B engines (25XPB, 35B, etc.) are somewhat different.  Unfortunately, I do not have a good photo of those starters.