Messages

Matt

There is no equivalent one because its not a Kb part and Kb doesn't use an alarm, and the Tsat cap isn't even from Kb.

What I DO NOT like about Wb's stupid switch is the ridiculous slide-and-fall-off auto speciality terminal (Mustangs once used button terminal senders like that), guaranteeing that you must buy Wb's part.  It is a "Packard 56 " terminal.

The better alarm switch is the one CD sells or you can get equivalent ones on Amazon (both use a 1/4" quick disconnect, which isn't as good as a threaded post (temp gauge sender) but it works.)

For proper temp gauge reading make sure the Tstat cap is well grounded.

Ken

You can still download back to Winter 2016 @ Mainsheet
https://mainsheet.net/magazine/

Get 'em quickly.

I have S, F, W 2015 in PDF.

If there is, theoretically it could be repaired.

Or easier, a rubber expansion plug used and fashion yourself a separate dipstick to use when you check level.

hoping that it will work and that there is not an additional issue, like stripped threads on the filler port?

Jim what engine model is this for?  I have a dipstick.

Ken

Thanks. Learning as I go. Broker offered to go over systems with me "for an hourly fee". I said no thanks.

Depending on where you are there's a ton of CTY owners in the SD area!

New to my boat and looking for location of valve "b". The manual just has a schematic. Thanks.

It would be best to post what you're looking at when asking about something specific (schematic page) so everyone is on the same page.  Literally.

Krafty

No one but you knows how YOUR boat is set up, but TYPICALLY the tank is pumped out without using the macerator. 

TYPICALLY, the macerator discharges to a thru hull, not to the deck pump out hose.  HOWEVER, I had mine discharging to the deck pump out (the pump out was VERY weak and I wanted to assist it.)  It's now changed back to "normal."

The plumbing diagrams in the Owner's Manual show the flow paths.

Typically the tank outzie hose does NOT have a valve, but no one knows about your boat. Trace the hose back from both ends to learn where and how it runs.
Naturally I don't know the circumstances of the boat purchase - was there no introduction to its systems?  Is there a Catalina owner at your marina that could spend a few hours walking you through everything?  It would be invaluable.  I had to learn but "knew boats"  still it would have been a head start had I had someone to show me.

To answer questions...
- Both batt test just under 13V w power disconnected.
- Yes it is the right kind of silicone
- Glo plug worked like a champ today!

Thanks again all!

@lrsfty

The techwiki site contains a plethora of manuals for your boat, INCLUDING the Operators Manual on how to operate your engine.

@krafty

The techwiki site has complete Teleflex engine gauge troubleshooting instruction.  Start with the steps to troubleshoot the gauge.

It sounds like you might not be preheating enough, but there could be several causes.   
Please describe further exactly your steps and exactlt what is happening. 
Help us to help you!

My mounts have a 5" mounting bolt spacing

https://store.pyiinc.com/products/engine-mounts-5-8-stud?variant=38002678628542

John

Ahhh. Thanks for this. 

I did not realize that when Westerbeke switched to manufacturing the "A" series, that included in that switch was the million-dollar platinum-plated isolators.  (I hadn't checked your photos <embarrased>)  I wonder if that switch was "universsl" (ugg) across all A engine sizes?

Something new learned this day!

Ken

Eric

I did not have any issue, as I mentioned I raised the hulk, not lowered the keel. But I just cut thru the mung as closely as I could get. 
As I started evenly lifting, it slightly unweighted the keel as it held on. I recall that I was inside when she let go (a deep pitched bang) so I might have been pounding on each bolt nut with a hardwood block and hand sledge.

Cliff

If plumbed and valve/everything sized correctly one can install a Tee so that one can use a wooden dowel that is the correct OD so that it slides past the open thru hull ball valve to clear it.  The tee can he just above waterline. 

Another option is to screw a hose or pipe into a tee only when you need it to bring the top above the waterline.

I've done it (temporarily) with a length of hose on the seacock and sliding a dowel down inside and down thru the ball valve.

My point is, there are different ways to do it. 

Ken

I have to disagree with Ron on this. Much more chance to have the "holes" in the outside-mounted bronze clamshell foul with debris, binnacles, seaweed, etc. your boat your choice, but I wouldn't do it. Mainesail agrees it is not a good idea.

https://forums.sailboatowners.com/threads/why-i-dislike-like-external-strainers.124964/

Absolutely agree.  More than once I would have been dead in the h2o from grass blocking an external strainer.

Jack

ABYC has a nifty free AWG calculator app.  Check your app store.  What I don't like is it dumbed-down and makes all the decions for you. Blue Sea used to have one as well.

I prefer this one where it is easier to "gauge"   the trade off of cable size vs V loss. 
https://www.boatwireusa.com/pages/voltage-drop-calculator
And below it are ABYC ampacity tables.
HOWEVER I'm not sure why they are giving me different answers - I will look into that SNAFU.

You are ok with not sizing for the "bottom of the voltage curve" (avg A not peak A?) 
(I'm asking, not judging!) 

I'm thinking the starter needs the voltage heft during the worst instance.  Seems that might also allow the starter to last longer.

Ken

• Finding #2:  oh s***, when they dropped the keel, the lead didn't cleanly separate from the hull and it delaminated some of the keel stub.

There was NO WAY I could have (or would have even tried to) separate my keel from the stub w/o cutting through the entire length of the joint.  Even when 1/3 of the joint was deteriorated. (nor would I let the yard where I was at the time even come close to touching my keel to remove it.)

MUNG is tenacious and not easily cut/ground. Gerry Douglas claimed that one could remove the keel nuts, sail the boat, and never lose a keel.  I tend to agree with him based on my experience/my keel!!