Messages

Ken,

If you click on and then add .jpg to the end of my pic address they will show up as a photo as opposed to a link...

Rod,

Aahhhhh Ha.  I thought that when I clicked , I had to attach a saved photo, didn't know that I could link to a photo URL as well. 

WOW.  Live and learn.  Thanks for the head's up! 

ken

Jon, a couple more....

Bilge pumps -

    TBD - I use awg 10/3 cable for bilge pumps, water pumps, etc. no matter the amps, just to minimize V loss.  When I ran my neg elsewhere, I used 10 awg red and brown single conductor.  I also get 10/2 bonded tinned wire in any colors, but it's 19 strand, not 41 strand.

Reserve battery -
 
   The 12 awg "connect to load side of (MRBF?) fuse" - has to be fused w/in 7" of the MRBF.
   
   Unsure where the cut off RED feeds are going, but depending on wire size, it might be neater to jumper one wire (fused for the lightest feed) from the reserve MRBF to a positive bus, and then run the feeds from the bus.  Unless you're going to do a bus bar right on the pos terminal?

Alternator -

     Unsure of the purpose of the 150a fuse - the entire bus is already fused  (i.e., the cable is no different than the 1 awg to the Safety Hub.))

Windlass -
    Why a TBD breaker on the windlass (it's already fused at the Safety Hub)?

Echo - questions - (I'm not an EchoCharge user so Maine Sail is better suited to address these.)

    Why 20A fuse at echo end? (already fused by the Safety Hub)
    Is this the right unit? (per Xantrex "both banks must be the same .... type")
    Although limited to 15a, I would probably use 10 awg "just because" and to limit voltage loss.

ken

Hi Ken,
My current charger is a ProSport 20, 2 bank. I looked at the boat today, and the current bilge pump diagram reflects the way the boat is today. I just realized you were probably talking about the future b/u bilge pump which shows an inline fuse after the switch/cb on the panel. It seems to me the switch/CB at the panel should protect the wire to the pump/level switch so will be deleting the inline fuse. Jon W

Yep, if fed from a breaker on the panel, can be deleted.

You might as well factor in a new ProMariner ProNautic charger.  The ProSport 20 charger will soon fry with that battery bank -- I learned a lesson (after the fact) from MaineSail that those waterproof series aren't appropriate for our use -- mine fried just out of warranty on three grp 31 flooded batteries.  For your bank you'll want (RC may correct me on this) a model 1240P, or probably a 1250P.

kk

Ken,

If you click on and then add .jpg to the end of my pic address they will show up as a photo as opposed to a link...

Yeah, but then your descriptions below on some of them don't show...  !

Jon

a couple comments:

There's no problem using a MRBF on a bus -- I must have missed that question. :-(
apologies to RC for hijacking these photos....
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/image/131742930
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/image/149747336
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/image/124282533

What's your current ProMariner charger?

Where I have light conductors vs. heavy cables (no rule of thumb there, just intuition) I tend to physically tie down heavy cables near to minimize transferring rotation movement to the terminal/bolt/etc.  e.g., a 16 awg is flexible enough that it isn't going to impart a force to a #8 screw, but a 8 awg might (or a heavy, inflexible battery cable.)   See photo example below.

Overcurrent protection needs to be on the supply side of switches (bilge pump).  i.e., OCP feeds the switch, not the switch feeding the OCP device.

To reduce voltage loss and excess wire, I tend to run negatives to the nearest bus (back to the battery box may be longer than to the eng compartment?)

kk

The top of the stand isn't too thick but I should be able to countersink the hole a bit to get a good butyl seal.

You want to be sealing the DECK with epoxy and countersinking.

kk

Thanks mainesail & j_sail, that makes a lot of sense.

Is the image a pic of the type of fuse to use or the type of fuse to not use?

(Sorry folks, I'm British and ambiguity is a toughie for me.)   

Paul

That's an anal (ANL) fuse and holder, which is fine -- the point was to buy reputable products (holders and fuses) not Chinese knock-offs that may fuse together or blow apart (the example shown) on high AIC and do not provide proper marine protection.

kk

This is an additional thread from my previous one titled rigging got hit.  After inspection yesterday it appears the mast will be condemned.  I put out several call today to start the process of the mast replacement so I know my options when I discuss with marina and insurance company.  Seems that no one is sure who built the mast.  Charleston spar did confirm it was not theirs when I sent pic and they believed it was a forspar and that profile is no longer available.  UGGG!!  I spoke with the factory today and they are getting back to me.

Does anyone have any suggestions to determine the spar manufacturer and where to get one.  The factory did say the believed a new seldon package ( read very expensive) from a 355 would fit if I changed the mast base and the standing rigging.  Sails would be a little small for it though.

Surely CTY can tell you (eventually.) 

If wanting to nail it down sooner, talk to Sparcraft a/k/a Charleston Spar in Charlotte (704) 597-1502  Check your dimensions against the FM 580 size:




kk

Plan to countersink the holes and bed with gasket before installing.

Are you gonna overdrill the fastener holes, rout out the core, epoxy and redrill the holes to size -- an hour up front to absolutely prevent any water damage in the long run?

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/sealing_the_deck


kk

Hi,

It might take a lot of epoxy, from another post, it is hollow.

OMG no need to fill an entire void such as that.  If needing to fill a void, a professional trick is a little expanding foam insulation (the very low expansion stuff!!)   Squirt JUST A LITTLE inside to create a "dam" in the void, let cure, rout out, fill, voila'   

I did that between coming/liner where I needed a viable substrate to repair pulled-out canvas snaps.   

kk

Plan to countersink the holes and bed with gasket before installing.

Are you gonna overdrill the fastener holes, rout out the core, epoxy and redrill the holes to size -- an hour up front to absolutely prevent any water damage in the long run?

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/sealing_the_deck


kk

Thanks Stu! Just ordered the book and laminated chart. Maybe I can even get my partner to read it so she can make suggestions when she's at the helm. 

Thank's Ken for bringing this to our attention LOL! 
No, seriously Craig -- Not to hijack this thread into one on sail trim, but Don G is also a regular contributor to SBO and he has many posts on sail trim and boat handling in general.  Check out his threads when you get a chance -- it will take a long time to get thru them all!!

http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?search/28248/

kk
ps. IMHO, increasing depth is not the way to depower the main. Light wind = more belly; heavy weather = a flat sail.

I'm not a sail trim/ sail power expert. but I'm not sure all the methods mentioned are the 'best" (or "proper") way to depower.   Has anyone seen the sail trim charts that a C30 has brethren developed?   They are very good.

http://www.sailtrimproducts.com/sail_trim_chart.html

Reefing is IMHO the proper way to depower a main, as less cloth is to the headsail -- depending of course pn how much depowering you need.


kk

yes, my mistake, 10:1

It's definitely an improvement over the factory 3:1 outhaul. Yes, there are many ways to depower, move the traveler to leeward, loosen the vang, loosen the mainsheet, tighten the Cunningham and reef, whatever one prefers.

Paul,

Although you can certainly use the current slugged car - I do w/ my loose footed main.  But a bb car/track is nicer.  Harken has a system, so does Garhauer.  The GhM has purchase, so you leave the 3:1 add the car, and end up with 6:1.  sweet.

I had been working with GhM (I'm a dealer)  to come up with a system very much like the Harken outhaul car, but the customer went a different direction -- I could pursue if there's a need.  I think it could be done to be ordered with or w/o purchase.

Ken

RC,

Is there a rule of thumb for short circuiting vs another measure of capacity, or simply do the math based on say the 20 rate?  While driving to nc last night I was thinking how to (err, "adjust") Jon's misnomer but didn't know how to estimate a s-c rate w/o knowing internal resistance.  In any event that kind of flow might instaneously weld a cable end to something.

Is there a general factor to estimate dead-short current assuming we know, say, the cca or 20-hour rate or..?  Or just do the math and ass/u/me a few second time period?

Ken

Question - Can a MRBF type fuse like the ones used on the battery terminal be attached directly to the Alternator output post? Vibration make this not a good idea? Currently showing a midi fuse in a Blue Sea System holder in the engine compartment. Thinking how to simplfy/reduce the connections. Thanks for the help.

Jon W.

Why would you want a MRBF or MIDI there?

Ken