Messages

Jon.

Note that RC says there's really no reason to have a "starting" type battery as your reserve.  That a 12v "deep cycle" works just as well or better.  That's contrary to what I was "brought up with" and always figured the dedicated batt should be a starting type.  His tests of current draw on a deep cycle during starts proves otherwise.  I believe that test is linked in the "101 electrical".

kk

Have two questions -

In my setup when the engine runs, the alternator will charge the house bank and via the Echo charger will also direct some current to the reserve/start battery. When the AC charger is on and charging, won't the Echo charger perform the same role and direct some of that current to the reserve/start battery? If so, does the AC charger need to be connected to the reserve/start battery at all since the Echo charger redirects current to keep it topped off? I ask because it would allow me to remove ~ 25 feet of 4 AWG.

In what cases does the importance of being able to quickly/easily remove a fuse without creating a loose dangling wire offset the mounting convenience of the MRBF. Example - pull the fuse from the holder and wires remain connected, vs disconnect the wire to remove the MRBF.


Thanks.

Jon W.

Jon the fuse question is like red vs green delicious.  It isn't a big deal either way if you're doing maintenance and need to disconnect one fuse nut/cable, or two nuts.  You're splitting very very fine hairs here so you likely won't exactly "half them" anyway.  If the extra wiring and space of the mounted fuse block are important, then go MRBF.  If you have the space, then wiring the fuses is a one-time shot.

It's like I always say about cables, going up size is a one-time expense and incremental copper is a decent deal, so go for it -- until it elevates to the point of:
1) Spending boat bucks to replace something that is perfectly good (like the 4 ga alternator neg.) or
2) Getting becoming burdensome (dealing with extra 2/o cables, fuse block) in a tight spave.

kk

Are we talking inner or an outer track?

-kk

Yes Ken, exact same thing. Doesn't surprise me that we pay twice as much in Canada! The power flush could be interesting as well, although I might expect a fountain from the twin sink, since they don't have the drainage of a residential sink.

A hose Y and one in each side.

-kk

Recently the drains were not working so well, and I was thinking of doing the project to replace the standard draining arrangement. Then I found this $4 gadget in Home Depot. It is just the right size to fit down our drains in the galley. After a couple of passes with this, the drains are back to working 100%. Thought I would share...

Is this similar to HF? http://www.harborfreight.com/ez-zip-drain-cleaner.html



I wonder if this would fit the drain for a power flush? http://www.harborfreight.com/small-drain-cleaning-bladder-99943.html


-kk

I looked at the crimping tool, Mainesail. Over $1500 , so I think I will pass on that particular connector.  I will check out the Cole-Hersey, but have another idea for designed-in water resistance.

It looks to me there's an amphenol tool for $200-ish.  We used to use amp pins that were solder-the-tip, crimp-the-backside for strain, but you'd need to be good at fine soldering to not create a work harden spot.

-kk

[fuel line pick up (remove screen)]

I've replaced all fuel lines previously, but will double check all connections. My M25-XP has the fuel bleed knob with return line to injectors then tank.

issue points:  fuel pump filter and gasket, fuel line pick up (remove screen), primary filter should be before not after pump, air in fuel, weak flow.

Are you talking about the pickup in the tank?

Yes p/u in the tank, no screen on the pick up - A westerbeke service bulletin) !  See the 101 list, I'm sure Stu has that on there.
Easier to replace a filter than clean a blocked screen in the tank!

I always ask "what has changed since the last time"   - hoses, so yes do double check.  Filters and o-rings/gaskets?
You can't imagine how many leave the the shut off closed!  ;-0

Try starting with the bleed fully opened so fuel recirculates.



k

Ben,

If she's truely spinning well, then concentrate on fuel, fuel, fuel.

A vacuum leak (fuel line fittings and/or at primary filter) are always a key for no starts.

If you just want to verify starting, can simply remove the impeller - no need to rig up cooling just to run it for "a few" minutes.

By the injector pump, do you have the fuel bleed knob on the XP or the bleed screw?  I have an M-25 and have the bleed fuel NOT going to the return fuel line -- when I bleed, I like to SOLO cup and look at it (false sense of security I suppose).  Make sure you have no air whatsoever remaining in fuel stream when you bleed.  If you do, back up and check for air leaks.  I had a customer working on this for weeks and I kept asking "good fuel and flow to the injector pump?" - he'd never check it, and screwed around with compression tests and glow plugs and other crap.  Turned out he picked up a (wrong) primary filter at NAPA - gasket was sucking air.  If needed, try bypassing all and get fuel directly to the secondary filter.

Bleed fuel at each injector if necessary.

Start at the last point to verify proper, full fuel flow -- then if not work backwards from the known to the unknowns.

issue points:  fuel pump filter and gasket, fuel line pick up (remove screen), primary filter should be before not after pump, air in fuel, weak flow.

Ken

Thru bolted, you need to remove the track, check for core damage (fix that if "bad" - if minor could Git-Rot it.)  If there's extensive damage, well you know that deal already!

You can't fix this properly by trying to caulk the track in place.

Again though -- seal the core.  Over drill the fastener holes but not thru the bottom skin, dremel out the core between skins, epoxy the holes, redrill to the fastener size.  Only after doing those preventive steps, countersink and butyl tape.  Se Main Sail's site for the details
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/sealing_the_deck

For a leak repair and permanent bedding, it isn't worth bypassing the step to seal the core.

kk

Ken,
So are you saying the Superlube grease can also be used as a Dielectic compound?

ROC,

Yes the contact at SuperLube said, in not so many words, that it's the same as the dielectric product, # 91003.  I didn't save the email since she confirmed my suspicion.

Same marketing routine as Collinite's "marine wax" and "insulator wax" and "car wax" - different audiences.

cheers
ken

Correction, I did find the email   The difference is that the 21030 is more multi-purpose (with teflon).

Ken,

Thank you for your inquiry and interest in Super Lube®.  The difference in the two products is P/N 92003 contains PTFE which is a Teflon equivalent.  You can use either product for your electrical applications, no need to carry two different products.

Regards,
Debby Alagna
International Sales Administrator
Synco Chemical Corporation

Ken,
So are you saying the Superlube grease can also be used as a Dielectic compound?

ROC,

Yes the contact at SuperLube said, in not so many words, that it's the same as the dielectric product, # 91003.  I didn't save the email since she confirmed my suspicion.

Same marketing routine as Collinite's "marine wax" and "insulator wax" and "car wax" - different audiences.

cheers
ken

Also I go to an auto parts store and get dielectric grease, the stuff that's used on the brake and turn signal bulbs. 

The rain water would not drain at the base of the mast, sometimes would leak for days after a rain.  Both on the deck and water would follow the wires to the bilge.  I just increased the size and length of the existing drain slot.

What C-30ers typically have is a 1" pvc pipe, embedded into the deck w/ epoxy, 2" - 3" exposed so prevent water from draining through to the compression post/bilge.  Some put an elbow on top to prevent water from draining down the cables, but if you have an excess of cables with the mast raised, it will form a natural drip loop when it is lowered onto the step.  Electrician's putty (lowe's, etc) is a good choice to seal the cables at the top of the 1" pvc - permanent yet also removable.

Some (below) have also filled the recess in our steps so that there's no place for water to accumulate against the deck.  Doesn't look like it would work with the high sides on yours -- but Tony are there drain holes / openings through the sides?



SuperLube markets a dielectric, and they confirmed to me that it's comparable to their SuperLube PTFE Gel multi-purpose synthetic lubricant 21030, which is by law required to be carried on any boat (great for lubing rubber gaskets and anything that petroleum-based will attack.)



ken

I have a 1990 C34 and removing the old curtain tracks and replacing them with shades.  What do I fill the holes with to make it match the rest of the cabin?

You can tint MarineTex or gel paste very close to the liner color. I did this for my curtain holes. I tinted up a small container and keep it for small fixes.
Or just fill below the surface untinted, and Lowes or HD had a Valspar spray paint that is so close to the liner color you can never tell the difference.  I spray some in a container, pick up w/ artist's brush (or honestly sometimes with a just cotton swab) and dab onto whatever I am covering.  I could be almond or bone or  ? ...... sorry, don't have precise info readily at hand.

kk

Anyone found a better solution for this connector?

Tony,

A waterproof box with terminals strips and ring connectors would go a long way to solve your issue.  One of the few places I have yet to have a photo of.   

See bottom of:
http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Electrical


That box size I used would be complete overkill for 4 mast wires, but you get the idea.  Here's a Newmar box that's 3" x 3".  Unfortunately it has a "euro strip," which I don't care to use.


http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|344|2028705|2028880&id=978673

kk

[pressurized]

NEVER connect a hose to your raw water pump inlet - NEVER!!!

A pressurized garden hose, that is!
Ok to connect an open-ended hose to a bucket or whatever to run "sea" water through while on the hard, or to pump antifreeze thru.

kk