Messages

Jon,

Yes, when I approached SP in 2013 about a group deal, the VP said he wouldn't sell direct - they had to set it up thru a dealer, so they made me one rather than members dealing  with another 3rd party.  I just place the order and its shipped direct from the distributor.

kk 

        Attached is my running list of what's been done, and what I'm planning/thinking of doing.
Jon W.

Jon,

Amazing list and amazing progress!   

I noticed one in particular.....

21.   DONE. Replace the burnt connector on the spare shore power cord. Removed from boat.

Your burnt connector is yet another example of the poor twist-lock system!!  Everyone should consider (and do) upgrade to the SmartPlug system and take advantage of the Catalina Association group deal.


Stu- I wonder if this should be added to the "CU"s?  I could write up a segment and reference RC's photos and contributions.(but then again so could a monkey given enough time) 

aside -    are all the forum "CU"s reflected on the TechWiki "CU" section?   

-ken

I open up and lubricate the pump once or twice a year,

A dallop of mineral oil (baby oil) pumped occasionally (monthly - depending on the use factor) will lube the seals and let everything run smoothly.

kk

it's about time I did again!!!     

And use a Dayco Top Cog construction for best results, least wear/dusting, and coolest running!! 

JTSO
kk

I was unclear in my questions.

The positive you 'wired to the solenoid' - was that the harness positive? Where was that previously?

The negative you wired to the terminal block - that was  the harness negative?  Where was that wired to previously?

Where were those connected previously?

She had jumpers from where to where?

Are you saying battery negative directly to the engine?   Where was it-on the bell housing?
The neg cable should be on a starter bolt.

Apparently she wasn't cranking as solidly as you reported?

Marine ply, pvc core, balsa core.

Why would you not want to use marine ply core?

If you rely on the offshore pumpout, from what you describe ITWMM, I'd stick a rebuild kit in it.

kk

From Stu:

"Yes, in both.  Think of what happens when either is off when the other is on.  Check valves sometimes come with pumps, but rarely for this purpose."

I wondered whether the "non-operating" pump would act as a check valve when the other pump is in operation.  Because I was just in the innards of the foot pump, I can imagine that it's internal valves will not let water (moving under pressure from the electric pump) flow backwards through the pump.  I don't have the experience to know whether the impeller of the electric pump will be as effective when the foot pump is operating.  My thinking is the water will follow the path of least resistance, and the impeller will provide some resistance.  I may mock this up in the workshop to test it out.  I'll report out my findings.

Both pumps will feed into a "cold manifold."  I plan to run separate lines to each destination (in lieu of the current "trunk and branch" system).  So, the cold manifold will have outputs for:  hot water heater, galley faucet, head faucet, and a new cockpit shower head.  I will be mocking up the manifolds over the long weekend and will send photos with a flow chart for comments.  I got fixated on the use of manifolds while doing research on home pex water systems.  This may all be a silly use of my limited talents, but I'm having fun.

Thanks for everyone's input.

Dan

Dan,

Potable water pumps don't use impellers, they use diaphragms and internal flapper valves.

There is a check valve on the PWP, because it must hold pressure on the pressurized hoses, but an extra 1/2" check valve would do no harm.   There'es no reason for an elaborate manifold system to distribute the pressurized side, but "YBYC!".

kk

I'm installing the Smart Plug on Eximius this week. (Thanks Ken, ready for the extra shore power cord end.)

The easy to follow instructions sound like the process is easy (hope I don't find a tiewrap holding like Rick)

Curious - is there a benefit to using Loctite on the screws of the boat inlet electrical connections?

I read that there's a risk if the screws come loose.

And if so, which of the 4 types of Loctite is recommended?

Thanks.

Paul

Paul,

I wouldn't say there's a "recommended" LT, because SP is silent on using it.  I think it would be difficult to keep it from getting in between the plates/screw head/copper conductors?  I wouldn't think that a permanent (red) LT would be the thing to use.

Is that non-committal enough?   

check valves

Just a somewhat related word of caution about check valves in the potable water system...

The black Shurflo CV's are for the COLD water lines ONLY.  Never use one as the CV to prevent cold water backflow to the water heater.  Those CVs are not rated for water heater pressure and can let go with a bang  as pressure builds in the water tank.

For the water heater CV, use the Jabsco metal CV meant to prevent backflow to the water heater, or make one up using a 1/2" SharkBite CV (Home Depot online) which is ok for high pressure. 

kk

Am I missing anything?  Will this work?  Do I need check valves in either line?  Any thoughts or comments will be appreciated.

Dan

Dan,

1) The accumulator is simply tee'd into the water line -- water doesn't actually flow "through it" as depicted.  It just acts as a "spring weight" to absorb and release energy, thereby maintaing pressure on the system for a longer period of time.

2) I *think* could simply cross-connect the MP to just to the right of the EP, with a check valve, so that when the EP comes on, it can't back flow to the MP and inlet.  Many EPs integrate a check valve so that the system holds pressure.  i.e., I don't see that you need a cold water manifold. 

ken

http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-no-4-phillips-bit-socket/p-00944373000P

http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-7-in-slide-bar-handle-3-8-in/p-00904428000P

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-sae-t-handle-nut-driver-set-96927.html

kk

Amazon had #4 sockets, I think they were 1/2" drive.  If you do that go for the good name Bosch or SK, not habor freight - tend to be more questionable tip strength.  I hadn't looked for Craftsman.

Some accessories sears carries now are the same as HF - I noticed that looking in the store and noticed air line fittings, regulaties, gauges.  Not exactly sure what that's saying about HF quality or Sears quality?