Messages

1988 mk1 #677
Could somebody help,  I need the Lewmar model #for the two sets of winches on my boat.  I disassembled them at the end of the season, jotted down a few replacement parts I needed but forgot to get the model #'s.  I want to order the parts so I have them when I make the trip down.

LAzy,

Ass/u/me that you have the flat top Lewmars with the recessed allen-wrench-drive bolts on top the black plastic ring?  I can email you or post the parts list and part numbers for those.

Unless you are looking for those old model specific parts (which you WON'T find at West) the service parts (springs, pawls, etc.) are the same for MOST models.   50s can use a larger/heavier spring set than do the smaller pawls on the smaller winches -- but the lighter springs also work.  If you need MODEL SPECIFIC parts, just PM me.

-ken

No stray current...

Why do you say that?  Checked it or just surmising?  Are you saying on yours, or on any other boat in the marina?

Ken

Ed,

I regularly cleaned and V-17'd the prop -- and it was always relatively clean (some slime) upon pulling (freshwater Great Lake -- no zebra muscles -- and inland lake.)

Ken

Once water intrudes, the wood rots and the keel starts drop enough to separate.

I think what you're trying to say is that having the back part of the keel bear too much weight can torque the keel in a way that encourages separation at the front edge.

Just to add some personal experience -- there was no "drop" of the lead causing the smile on my C30 and while the wood plank was wet, it wasn't rotten.  "Disconnecting" the keel from the keel stub was BEAR, so there was no looseness due the plank.

And the "smile" started at the aft edge of the fin keel, not at the leading edge.  So, I maintain (JTSO) that blocking isn't the cause, or main cause -- it's water getting to the incompatible material (hydrophilic polyester bedding) and attacking it.  Mine started at the aft edge, most start at the forward edge.  Coincidently?? my aft bolt -- under the engine sump (which was continuously wet) was about finger tight -- I loosened it with only a 1" swing and virtually no torque on a box-end wrench.  The cause of the smile or a symptom?  I dunno, but suspect it contributed to the cause.

-ken

Just curious...

When Honda Goldwings in the early 2000s found out that mainframe cracks were appearing they were recalled.
Is there such a thing happened with Catalina @ Woodlands Hill ever?

I mean after all isn't this a production/engineering defect ?

Jim, 

while I oftentimes lament about instances of poor engineering (the sherwood pump, putting wood into a keel stub, exploding alternator brackets, gummy bear harness plugs) I wouldn't say the smile is an engineering or manufacturing defect.  Rather it was using the state if the art materials at the time -- polyester bedding of the keel to the stub, which is hydrophilic and deteriorates -- and CONTRIBUTES TO the instances (but not the sole cause) of the smile.  Epoxy and 5200 really wasn't the norm then.

When alternate materials are used, there is no smile.  For instance, my C30 smile and keel joint deterioration showed up in less than 9 years (9 yrs old when I got her, and crack already developed.)   I fixed it "permanently" over 20 years ago and not even a hint of a smile since then.  I don't see that as a defect and haven't ever felt CTY was responsible for fixing it, especially if something appears after 10 years. 

However I say (JTSO) it's VERY different with something that is obviously designed or manufactured incorrectly (Universal's exploding alternator bracket or Universal pumping high charge current through a corrosion- and high-resistance-prone plug ), or was done out of the norm (Catalina fabricating its own poorly manufactured substitute for the plug on the Universal harness.)  Note out of the norm, because the material used with CTY's poor attempt at the plug deteriorates and is a fire hazard, while Universal's plug does not deteriorate (excepting for "scorching" due to the poor decision to push the charge current thru the plug.) 

Anyway, I hope you see my (JTSO) differentiation between examples of a "defect" and a "non defect"?

-Ken

Paul

Note that Nate is developing a red/white LED replacement for fluorescent tubes -- that will operate just like the red/white switchable LED fixtures and bulbs.  The last I heard it isn't in production.... maybe soon.

-ken

I want to replace my fluorescent tubes with the following:  12" F8T5 LED Tube for Fluorescent Fixtures (FL-T5-66)
These are from Marinebeam.  Has anyone done this change and what brightness did you choose?
The original came from West Marine and are working fine,  need more light.
Thanks, Paul

The keel crack and bolt leak fix PDFs are posted at (at least temporarily)
Tech Wiki > Maintenance > Hull

I'll get the wooden plank fix posted there also.


wondering if it would be helpful to stick all factory issued docs, fixes, etc., in one location
any thoughts on that?

ken

My guess (if I had to) is the double-crimped is what broke off.  That's what I've seen on others. 

Understand from what I explained previously, that Wb uses SAE, not marine wire, and stiff wire, not Type III flexible, thin-strand wire.  Using the wrong wire is WHY the tabs break, and double crimping TWO bad wires onto one tab exponentially raises the chance that the tab will break.  You've eliminated the symptom but not the cause --- it will break off again.  Just a matter of time.

The only current going thru that switch is the lift pump -- I measured mine years ago, and it was under 1 amp -- don't remember exactly, but let's say 1 amp.  16 awg is even overkill for that amperage, and Wb runs 10 awg plus 14 awg into one terminal -- not only isn't that a good idea, it's just another failure point and isn't necessary.  The double feed to the switch branches off the switch and is the feed to excite the alt field to get it kicked in and charging.  That's low current also -- a 14 gauge would be overkill. 

The proper way to do it is to NOT crimp two wires into that terminal PLUS, both wires to the switch should be light gauge, AND fine stranded (Type III)  so as to NOT transfer ANY harness movement to the switch tabs (they flex and break off)  (which is alternately what the boot does.)  I understand concern about the boot being tight (I am ordering one and a sw to experiment) but putting it all back as it was, is just ignoring the underlying problem.  I'm not sure if that alt has an "excite" terminal post -- if it does, the proper way would be to run the feed to the alt post first, then to the switch (using two ring terminals on the alt post.)  Using marine Type IIi not SAE, wire of course.

Alternately -- on the crappy Wb wires, butt crimp short (6"?) 16 awg type III wire to the switch terminals.  If you leave the double crimp at that location, use a step down butt, Wb's two wires in one side, and a 16 awg to the switch out the other side.

-kk

there's no mystery, just pump it up and wait to see if it holds.  If not start looking for leaks.  the cap is like 12-15 psi, so that's the max to test at.

Sure you can pinch it off w/ a vice grip, just enough pressure, no more than necessary  (they make a kinda rounded pinching pliers for that purpose.)  Put a rag on it so you don't have sharp edges to cut the hose.  Or pop the hose off and block the end w/ a bolt or pc of gorilla tape.

kk

I am not sure yet, but I may have found traces of EG residue coming from the engine area to the bilge (not the hot water tank). I've borrowed a radiator pressure tester to apply some pressure to the system, and placed towels and pads in various places hoping I'll see where the coolant is dripping from. Before I apply the pressure tomorrow, do any of you have tips on how to do a pressure check? (Can't find anything in the wiki on this.)

In particular, since my coolant reservoir is mounted higher than my motor, I want to stem to flow of coolant once I take off my pressure cap. Can I just put a pinching tool on that hose, or will that damage the hose?

Which swtich tab was broken off -- with the single crimp or the double crimped wire?

kk

I finally got the old oil pressure switch off! A 1-1/16" crowsfoot tool was able to get in at the correct angle to grab the flat spots. I threaded on the new switch, but ran out of time before I was able to connect it. I'm not going to use the AutoZone pigtail because there are two large gauge wires crimped onto one of the connectors, and I'm not comfortable butting two larger gauge wires down onto a much smaller gauge single wire on the pigtail. Also, when I tested the connector on the new switch, it went on so tight I nearly destroyed the switch getting it off. And that's with it right in front of me - someday I may need to take it off and it's going to be in a very inaccessible part of the motor, so not gonna go there.  I'm going to fix what's broke, and leave what's working.

I borrowed a radiator pressure tester to track down a coolant leak this weekend. After fixing that (hopefully just a loose hose clamp), I'll heat up the oil, change it and the filter, put the antifreeze in, and then I'm done with the motor for the winter. I'll finish pulling off all the canvas and put the cover on.

breakin


Yep. I grabbed the wrong one.  The variable was 25 boat bucks. 
The better HF variable speed model that I have is now on 3 day BF sale for $25, no coupon/not ITC
http://www.harborfreight.com/variable-speed-oscillating-multi-tool-62867.html

and here's 20% on that, so 20 boat bucks.
http://www.harborfreight.com/digitalsavings.html

That's crazy cheap for a great tool, $5 better than I paid.

ken

HF variable speed multi tool -- 15 bucks, tomorrow only for iTC members!!

coupon att'd

Are they saying G-flex in the groove, and to still glass over the joint -- Or just G flex in the joint and fair/paint it?

-k

quote author=DaveBMusik link=topic=9219.msg67570#msg67570 date=1479862354]
In my conversation with Catalina today on another matter, they mentioned that they have revised the smile fix using West G Flex.
[/quote]

ed,

Not sure... I had seen that on a Camaro forum...  looked like 1-1/2, but it would be determined by what dia floor drain grate he found to fit PVC.  I doubt it was 4" pvc - would fit. Looks to me the drain grate shoulder just fits inside / and the rim sits on the edge of the pvc pipe, and holds the scotch pads.

i'm guessing the drain grates and caps are glued and the pipe held to the coupling with the screws so it comes apart to clean/replace the scotch pad.  I guess experience tells how often to drain?  You can get drains that open as fluid rises (as on the pump supply I mentioned.)  As well as clear PVC (at a premium!!) but it may get gunky and not be clear very soon?

PS, I just found a 2" drain grate that fits inside a 3" pvc pipe.  Maybe there's a smaller one?

https://www.amazon.com/Oatey-43561-Snap-Drain-2-Inch/dp/B000BOC062

Ok, I was thinking the movement was due to compression of the glass, not strictly deflection - so yes that wouldn't make a difference if there was mush between two layers.

kk

I think the below is a different situation -- which is one section of fglass that's being compressed at the top surface, not two pieces that's being drawn together, with potential mush in between them?  Or maybe I'm looking at it askew?

-k

They are really the same thing. In the case I described, the bottom bolt load is spread out by the keel more or less uniformly across the stub walls and bottom, so the bottom doesn't flex much. The point load on the top skin (from the nuts and washers) will pull it towards the bottom skin (drawing them together as you put it). If there was no keel and just a bolt squeezing the two skins together, your specific scenario would play out. From a calculation point of view it hardly matters, if the core is rotten and the top skin is a half inch or less, it will flex a lot.