Messages

J_

Thank you for the grease primer - very informative!

Interesting about your ptfe note - I looked back and (mea culpa) superlube hadn't said its hi dielectric gel and lube gel were identical, they said either could be used.  I checked just now and its DEG doesn't contain ptfe.

Ken,
Thank you for your inquiry and interest in Super Lube®.  The difference in the two products is p/n  92003 contains PTFE which is a Teflon equivalent.  You can use either product for your electrical applications, no need to carry two different products.
Regards

So with the 1st below being it's hi-DE product, is the silicone a concern for our usual marine uses? (I don't see us needing to paint a terminal block or an oil switch    )

Would you say the 2nd below p/n 82003, connector gel, is a better choice?  What I get out of the primer is that for our low-tech application any of the three superlube gels would do just fine?

kk

Ed,

You could also fill, sand flush, run some masking tape and paint a stripe w enamel that might stand up to solvents and UV better than detailing tape.    Most auto parts, walmart, amazon carry detailing tape.

-kk

SuperLube markets a dielectric.  They confirmed to me that it's the same product as the PTFE gel.  Truth in advertising. Not.

Au contraire re: 'conducting" grease.  Yes, what you want is dielectric grease --

SuperLube PTFE gel is excellent for the purpose, as well as lubing most any other threaded connection.  NO BOAT should be without at least one tube of it.  The SuperLube dry PTFE spray is an excellent lube also (it's like SailKote).

You apply it very sparingly on the connection/terminal and then tighten up -- the pressure essentially cuts thru and displaces any dielectric where there's direct contact, leaving protection where there's any tiny space -- thus preventing corrosion there.)  To protect the outside of the threads/nuts you can use a brush-on terminal protector (like NCP-2, battery terminal protector) or a brush-on liquid tape to form a complete seal.  But it sounds like possibly unnecessary overkill -- if you use brush-on tape on the outside, using grease on the terminal is probably unnecessary, but won't hurt anything and is simply belt/suspenders.)

kk

Bryan

If you do choose epoxy, in the screw holes you would use somewhat thickened resin, while the underside and edge coatings would use unthickened.  One of the small diameter foam rollers work well for sealing -- edges will take more than one application.  IIWMB I'd use Mas brand epoxy (which is non-blush) low-viscosity resin, which would be more penetrating than West or regular Mas resin.  I like your attention to detail in repairing holes.  Using epoxy on the oversize holes is a super idea because, besides closing up the hole, it will penetrate into teak veneer and plywood substrate and reinforce the area to prevent screws from pulling thru again.  I'd suggest this sequence:

Prepare holes (if rough or torn, to clean them up - use a countersink or rout out w/ a dremel w/ a 115 or 194 bit)
Tape over the underside.
  * Each below works well using West syringes.
Fill each w/ unthickened resin, let penetrate 5-10 min (depending on temp and hardener used).
If needed, suck out excess in the same order filled.
Fill with thickened resin (you can add West teak additive to color it.)  If you use a slow hardener, you can reuse any sucked out resin to make the thickened mix.  I know it's not a lot of $$ to just waste what you suck out, but.... why not reuse?
Re-drill/countersink.

As well, I would treat even the "still-ok" screw holes to reinforce the plywood grain.

If you notice you overfilled a hole, it's ok -- don't worry and don't sand -- if it will interfere with countersinking, after the resin kicks, use a SHARP wood chisel (w/ the beveled side against the teak) and skim off the excess to be flush w/ the surface.

You can use low-density filler in epoxy resin to make sanding eas(ier), but IIWMB I would experiment with a colored wood filler, or Noah's idea of building up w/ varnish. Tape the adjacent area to prevent sanding on them a lot, or use an appropriate-shaped wood sanding block to hit just the filled gouge.

ken

It kinda depends on whether cutting a straight or curved line and how much room one has to work.
A roto-zip (or equivalent) works really great, as does a 1/8" rotozip carbide bit in a Dremel. 

Also a saber saw or a B&D VersaPak recip saw are my old go-tos (w/ a metal blade as FG is really tough on blades). A harbor freight Body Saw would work as well.

With the Dremel you need to have a steady hand to make a long straight cut.

A hacksaw blade in a Stanley Multi Saw handle also works (cheaply) for short straight cuts. 

Your stereo mount may differ but typically it locks into the bracket that looks to be remaining in the panel. You remove the faceplate,and slide tools into each side that simultaneously unlocks the lock-in tabs on each side. The tools look like a small flat sheet metal key about an inch long. But YMMD, the lock tabs may have been disabled.

http://tinyurl.com/jl92f7u

Bob

See hurth auth service contact earlier in this thread

Ken

Download the instructions and see how it's likely mounted?  Maybe there's a trick to the bracket, like a stereo bracket/faceplate?

Above the portholes on the either side of the boat there is a skinny and loooong piece of wood trim. Do they sell that thingy? It's so worn-out, I don't know if it's worth to work on it?

Do a search on teak and Cesar - he could probably replace them if you want to go that route.

Interesting, Stu.  Possibly there's a difference in where the larger  Hx has to sit on the 30.  Due to the low "overhead" in the 30 engine box, the riser is very tight to the
Hx, so my reformed  bracket may be bent a little closer to the tranny, so the stick woundn't pass. Especially if you didn't reform the radius and so the tube sits even a little higher.

-ken

And depending on how bad the separation is, after you could do a wrap-over with Poly-Weld and a pc of glass or carbon. 

-kk

Jeff,

See Reality Check's blog which goes thru it in detail.

You need to reshape the bracket to fit the 3" (some leave it as is.) 
I had a pc of iron pipe that was just about the right OD and used it to hammer the old bracket into a larger OD. 

Use the ABA/AWAB style clamps, as regular worm drive can break if they are tight when the Hx expands.  In fact I have changed every clamp to the better ones -- there's no comparison.  The hose sizes are the same.  The new Hx made it hard to get at the dipstick (actually to pull it out past the larger diameter.)  I simply put a quarter-size dimple (ball pein hammer) in the Hx above the dipstick and it passes right past it now.  Pic attached.  I'll send a quote on a Hx, you just need to decide whether you want the 90 degree or 45 degree inlet -- see RC's blog.

Ken

Bill

the 407206 is 2.63, but no matter.
That's a great deal out of NJ -- must be a ZF distributor -- that's just about $100 over dealer cost.

-ken

K,

No-go, none the three distributors carry Ronco, and do not have an equivalent to the B114.  Close in dimension, they say, but I wouldn't trust that.

You might try a Ronco repair --  double the shipping cost, but 5-min fix is a lot cheaper than a new tank.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=crmnzfDZDPU&t=55s

or what's to lose w/ a home repair?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h-9yhanz5DE
https://www.tapplastics.com/product/repair_products/plastic_adhesives/tap_poly_weld_adhesive/435

I've done the flame treat/epoxy (though not using "PolyWeld" -- which is probably much better than what I used) on HDPE (not a tank) and it was effective.  I used a Ronson Tech Torch, which is not quite as hot as a propane fan tip and more controllable over small surfaces.


Or a melt-weld:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJbFK4pAh3Y
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z4zGHgqxLEU

If you have a very hot concentrated heat gun you can do the poly stick weld repair. Or I think the Tech Torch would be better than a large torch.

-ken