Messages

[http://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Evolution_of_the_Catalina_34]

Ron
I don't know............ your corrections seemed to "have taken."
http://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Evolution_of_the_Catalina_34

do you see anything else? 
-kk

Guys : I tried to edit that page, but no luck.  There are a bunch of errors:
1. C34 designed by Gerry Douglas
2. Only the 1st year (1986) had the option of a keel or deck stepped mast
3. There also was an M35 engine option (30 hp) in 1990-1994
4. The MkII has an M35BC engine (35hp)
5. The MkII was officially rolled out at the 1995 Atlantic City Sail Expo Boat Show, Hull #1295
6. There are 4 different hull designs

A few thoughts

Looks like a good spot Paul.  Running 10awg no matter what size breaker you install?

kk

Not having eyes on, I'd think about electrician's putty, or butyl, or mortite as possibilities. If you need a sealant I'd run from silicone -- unless the channel was filler under controlled conditions, ie mast down, a dam on either side to make a form.   A pic?

Paul

Can you verify the wire size? 
18 awg = 20a; 16 awg = 25a; 14 =

I like to run the largest breaker at the source and then step it down before the equipment (or fuse in the 12v plug.)

-kk

I am looking to replace a clutch to the right of the companionway.  I see that Catalina Direct has the originals with the same bolt pattern.

Has anyone found a better clutch with the same bolt spacing?

What is the conventional wisdom? Go ahead and drill new holes or replace with the original model?

Thanks, Dave

Dave,  I deal for Garhauer, Lewmar, Antal, Spinlock, etc.  There's differences between all clutches in how each holds the line (due to patents), and JTSO the Lewmar clutch and Antal "V" clutches are two that are easiest on a line.  The Lewmars hold the line by deforming it through 4-5 offset clutch rings, while the Spinlocks actually clamp down on the line with "teeth" (not friendly to the line cover.)

I don't know if it would help you any, but I have 2 of the old (gray) Lewmar D2 clutches -- not the newer DC2 (black bodies.) 


They are size 10-12mm triples, but can be turned into doubles or
singles.  They are new this season, as in never used -- they were installed to match the existing clutches, but removed before being used (owner changed his mind and changed his new and old clutches to the DC2 style.) 

I just need to get rid of them at a fire sale price.  email or PM me if they can help you out.

-ken

If there was no "O" in "H2O" would it still be wet?     
Happy New Year!

ABSOLUTELY!!  But unfortunately you won't hear the tree in the forest fall..

HNY all y'all.

Stu,

I don't understand what you're suggesting re: #2? 
Heat shrinking over a battery terminal stud/nut (wouldn't that be impossible due to the large cable lug?) or over a stud on a terminal strip or alternator stud (nearly impossible due to the ring terminal itself)? 

Nope, c'mon.  Part of #2 is wires into connectors, like butt connectors or even wires into battery lugs.  That's all.

Stu

I see the confusion! 

His discussion of 1,2,3 was specifically (only) the physical terminal, post, or pin connections -- not the wire or cable crimp itself.   Previous clarified that it didn't apply to the crimp, which shouldn't have any dielectric or other goop applied before crimping w/ adhesive heat shrink terminals. 

Engineers: Can't live with'em, can't live without'em...

Noah, There's left-cost and right-coast engineers!!!   

kk

[CRC 06026 Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor]

Stu,

I don't understand what you're suggesting re: #2? 
Heat shrinking over a battery terminal stud/nut (wouldn't that be impossible due to the large cable lug?) or over a stud on a terminal strip or alternator stud (nearly impossible due to the ring terminal itself)? 

Slather an alt stud or battery terminals with liquid tape?  Maybe, but I wouldn't.  I previously mentioned LT but in reference to a light coating on a "permanent" out of sight/mind connection (gauge, switch terminals) behind the engine panel.  I think one exception where heat shrink could be used is to encase "in line" quick disconnects.   Or as I think we discussed on the phone that night (my time,) encasing the quick disconnect on the starter solenoid "S" wire/terminal (after removing the fuse, of course. ) if you don't have a threaded-stud type solenoid.

FWIW, I'll add CRC 06026 Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor to the list of total assembly protectants (like TC-11.)  It may not be as high-tech/mil spec as others, but for our use, more economical.  I'll submit that these be used can be used on individual assemblies (#2, like terminal block studs, alt studs, engine senders, etc.) as well.

I've ordered the SuperLube 82003 connector protectant to give it a try and check the viscosity (could it be brushed on before assembly, rather than the super expensive alternatives?)

-ken

Also I got some bad info to fill dents with epoxy and sand flush.
I won't do that again, you can see every dent this was done to.  The epoxy turns dark amber... darker than the finish of course.  Just let your finish flow into the dent and leave it at that.

West Special Hardener (tint free, clear curing) would be what to use for that -- and it can be tinted as needed.  It takes a minimal of experimenting on a scrap piece of teak to match the filler to the finished (varnished) product on the adjacent teak veneer.  It can be tinted with either fiberglass tint or the West "teak" filleting additive.

-k

To return to my question, is there any perceived benefit to drying the area around the bolts and under the washers, then applying some bedding (perhaps MainSail's butyl) to keep water and chloride ions out of the crevices? It might also provide enough lubrication to avoid scraping away the passivation layer. Both, taken together, might inhibit crevice corrosion.  Any reason why this would be a bad idea?

pics?

Is it serious corrosion (integrity of the fastener) or just some surface rust (cosmetic)? 
Unless it's dramatic, I'd be more concerned about unseen crevice corrosion in a standing rigging swage or on a clevis (every one one of which is critical), than surface rust on one washer on a (over-designed set of) keel bolts.

Yah nevah know the grade and more importantly the quality of OEM fasteners used, which may be the cause of or contributing to the corrosion.

-kk

Dan,

There's discussion of different forms of stainless corrosion and O2 starvation than just on sailing forums.  I'm not a metallurgical engineer, but it was my understanding that crevice corrosion (O2 starvation) was due to free oxygen not being available to form and/or repair the protective layer, and so then the presence of H20 (containing dissolved O2) results in corrosion.  ie, dissolved O2 (or combined H2O) cannot form or repair the protective layer.  This looks like a pretty good description (with excellent pics "describing" the reactions) from UA (apologies to those War Eagle fans.)
http://bama.ua.edu/~mweaver/courses/MTE271/22_MTE%20271_Corrosion.pdf

I think keels don'r fall off because 1) you're talking a huge mass of the bolt compared to maybe a small crack on a standing rigging swage that attacks its holding integrity.  Plus, if the bilge is dry, there's no dissolved O2 to get down to the thread.  When I dropped dropped my keel (due to water infiltration down the thread/attacking the keel bedding) was there surface rust on the bolts?  Yes.  Was it enough to cause any sleep loss?  Not a minute.

-kk

J_

Thank you for the grease primer - very informative!

Interesting about your ptfe note - I looked back and (mea culpa) superlube hadn't said its hi dielectric gel and lube gel were identical, they said either could be used.  I checked just now and its DEG doesn't contain ptfe.

Ken,
Thank you for your inquiry and interest in Super Lube®.  The difference in the two products is p/n  92003 contains PTFE which is a Teflon equivalent.  You can use either product for your electrical applications, no need to carry two different products.
Regards

So with the 1st below being it's hi-DE product, is the silicone a concern for our usual marine uses? (I don't see us needing to paint a terminal block or an oil switch    )

Would you say the 2nd below p/n 82003, connector gel, is a better choice?  What I get out of the primer is that for our low-tech application any of the three superlube gels would do just fine?

kk

Ed,

You could also fill, sand flush, run some masking tape and paint a stripe w enamel that might stand up to solvents and UV better than detailing tape.    Most auto parts, walmart, amazon carry detailing tape.

-kk

SuperLube markets a dielectric.  They confirmed to me that it's the same product as the PTFE gel.  Truth in advertising. Not.