Join the C34 Association Today!
[C34 Home] [C34Tech Notes] [C34 Tech Wiki] [Join!]
Please login or register.
Advanced search  


Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - KWKloeber

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 304
Main Message Board / Re: Rust on Stanchion fittings
« on: Yesterday at 07:00:04 PM »
Am I missing something unique to the stanchions on a C34? 
If so apologies.

If not - **everyone knows** that stanchion bases should be fully bed in a sealant. 
Many use butyl tape.  Many others use life caulk or similar.  Never caulk *around* stanchion bases.

Ive used a roto zip to cut such holes and it worked well just going slow and steady staying on the line. Ifvi did it again I’d duct tape a straight edge to the fiberglass for a perfectly straight cut.

A 1/16” angle grinder blade will work.

I’ve also used a Dremel for such cuts but put a roto zip bit in it. That works very well instead of a Dremel bit.

Main Message Board / Re: Engine inlet thru-hull
« on: September 15, 2022, 08:23:54 PM »
Hey Alex

Yep I might have one in stock otherwise I need to order some in.
They don't make a 45 hose barb BUT I can get you a 3/4 x 3/4 45 street elbow and then screw the 3//4 x 1 barb into it?

Main Message Board / Re: Prop rotation
« on: September 14, 2022, 06:23:46 PM »
RH prop if you have a Universal and Hurth tranny.

Main Message Board / Re: Engine inlet thru-hull
« on: September 14, 2022, 03:40:37 PM »


Schmear a bit of SuperLube gel or tef-gel or lanokote inside the hoses and on the barbs - they will be easy to remove when needed!

Once again if you missed it, nylon and pvc fittings are NOT approved for below waterline hoses and should NOT be used. YBYC!

Main Message Board / Re: Refitting Polonaise
« on: September 11, 2022, 09:30:26 PM »
Where does the hose run now?  Is there a high spot, and where is that?

Main Message Board / Re: Engine inlet thru-hull
« on: September 09, 2022, 10:51:39 AM »

Are there any potential problems with this setup?

Not particularly except if the pump doesn’t do the trick.  It would be dual purpose if it were set up to periodically flus but be able to dowel the thru hole if needed.

In Paul’s case (if I picture it correctly) IIWMB I’d have a tee w/ a plug atop the valve; then it could be cleared thru the tee w/o disturbing any plumbing/clamps/hoses.
(naturally using all approved materials.)

Main Message Board / Re: Engine inlet thru-hull
« on: September 09, 2022, 08:07:41 AM »

So you’re saying the 90 is hard piped to the strainer, not a 90 hose barb?
Careful bout old fittings - Catalina was notorious for using pvc and nylon not approved or appropriate for below waterline use!

You could try Stu’s foot pump method?

Main Message Board / Re: Refitting Polonaise
« on: September 08, 2022, 08:54:52 PM »


Don't know your specifics, but pumping 1000 GPH thru 15 feet of 1-1/4" smooth bore hose, creates 1 foot of head loss, but that's not the major head loss.

Pumping up over your high spot in the hose will be the major head loss, not the fiction loss of the hose.  In other words, 1000 GPH water pumped up, say 3 feet, is like pumping thru 45' of hose.

I don't see where a vent on a high loop helps.  I'd **think** all you need is a hump as high as you can get (compared to the heeled waterline.)  I could be convinced otherwise.  Now if you were discharging below the waterline, then yes, a vented loop.  If the discharge is under the rail and buried on a heel, a vented loop wouldn't necessarily prevent water from flowing back.

Main Message Board / Re: Mystery fuel leak 2003 MKII Plastic tankScoty
« on: September 07, 2022, 06:01:22 PM »

Of course the caveat is that this is lacking any "hands on" your particular situation (or about the tank on the C34,) but the valve fitting looks to me like it was tightend down WAY too much and has deformed the gasket.  Or fuel has attacked and deformed it. 

See my caveat.

It also looks discolored around there (fuel?)

In general though, IIWMB (C-30) I would
   - close the valve
   - plug (or properly pinch off) the tank vent hose.
   - use the fuel return hose to put 1-2 psi of air into the tank.   With just a hand pump, nothing to bulge the tank, just to locate a air leak.  Alternately you can use one of my favorite tools, a Horror Fright brake system bleeder pump.  But that will reveal a leak, not its location.
   - brush or spray the suspect area(s) with a little dishsoap in water or better kids' bubble maker (it lets bubbles grow larger and easier to spot.)  There's recipes for it on the 'net.

I don't know which engine you have but the return would be either on the front (M-25, from injector #1) or the rear (injector #3, later engines.)

See my caveat.

Main Message Board / Re: Tach cutting out
« on: September 06, 2022, 08:36:25 AM »
The connections to check are
Signal: AC post on the alt and S post on the tach

Power and negative supply wires to the tach (which could be daisy-chained to other gauges. Power will originate from the key switch. 
The negative originates in the black harness wire in the engine compartment -  where it's terminated depends - could be on a buss, the bell housing, the exhaust manifold stud.  It runs thru the gummy bear plugs if they are still there. The tach S  wire does not.

The techwiki contains a Teleflex troubleshooting guide for the engine gauges.

Main Message Board / Re: Engine inlet thru-hull
« on: September 06, 2022, 08:25:13 AM »

Clearing blockages as you describe is common.  Yes a hose above the waterline works but makes it more difficult. For that reason I've had some customers replace w/ 3/4 hose so pushing a down thru it is easier.
But if your dowel is close to the ID of the thru hull barb there's little leakage past it for the short duration you're pushing out the wad.  It's a non issue because you're going to close the valve right after the dowel passes up through the ball.
I don't know the ID of the thru hull barb and/or the ball valve hole so you might experiment to get the appropriate dowel diameter.
If you have access to compressed air at the dock that's another way that I've used.

Main Message Board / Re: Unstepping Mast on Catalina 34 MKii
« on: August 31, 2022, 08:52:11 PM »
Some put a tee or elbow atop the conduit stub to redirect the cables and prevent rainwater from traveling down the cables and conduit.  If the cables are long enough that’s unnecessary because when the mast is down they’ll naturally form drip loops.
If they are short or for belt/suspenders, stick a gob of “electrician’s putty” (from a big box) in the conduit stub to seal around the cables.

Main Message Board / Re: Unstepping Mast on Catalina 34 MKii
« on: August 30, 2022, 09:59:29 PM »

Taking mast of our 2000 Catalina 34mkii for the first time. It's a deck stepped mast.  Are all the connections for mast mounted electronics (Wind and Lights) connected at the base of the mast at deck level?  Can't seem to find them anywhere else. 

Do it safely!!  Be sure to lay 4x4 or 6x6 blocks on the deck once the mast is raised while messing w/ wiring underneath it.  You can't replace a hand in-kind.


post a pic?

See my reply (#9) to this thread.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 304