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Picked up at Annapolis Sailboat show a couple of years ago and never used.

$50 plus actual ship cost or pick up in St. Clair Shores, MI.

Sail is very clean and still crisp. It was included with my 1999 mkII (HN 1450) in 2013 and I used it for part of one season. Other than that, I believe it to be hardly used. Includes sail bag of course. Asking $400.

Measurements are as follows:
Leech – 44' 4"
Luff – 42' 10"
Foot – 18'
I am in Saint Clair Shores, near Detroit. Willing to meet someone halfway within a reasonable distance.

I filled the bracket screw holes with JB Weld Cold Weld formula epoxy, drilled 7/32" pilot holes for the #10 screws and remounted the bracket. The stairs are rock-solid at this point. Thanks for all the suggestions. Dave

Thanks to everyone for suggestions on fixing this.

I'm going to try beveling the holes, filling with Marine-Tex epoxy and re-drilling pilot screw holes.

If this works, I'll do the left bracket as well, because while the left-side screws are fairly tight, one of them does turn continuously. Another interesting thing is that there are slotted screws holding the left bracket and Phillips screws on the right. I'm not sure which are Catalina original - I would think they would use the same screws for both sides.

Per Stu's suggestion, I added boat info. Will let you know how this repair turns out.

Dave

I'm evaluating repair options and would appreciate input from the group. I did a search here and did not see this issue addressed

The companionway upper stairs are wobbly in my MkII hull 1450 because the 2 screws holding the right-side bracket no longer fully tighten into the fiberglass companionway back wall, i.e. stripped.

I'm considering using spring loaded anchors with machine screws (see image) but I am hesitant to drill the required half-inch diameter holes which leave little material between the two bracket screws. Also, I have no information on the load rating of the anchors or screws.

Other options would be masonry anchors such as Tapcons, but don't know if these would hold in fiberglass.

Would filling in the holes with some kind of epoxy (5200, JB Weld etc.) and drilling new holes be a better way to go?

Thanks,
Dave

Thanks for the info Ken. I connected it to a power supply and it does work, only drawing 90 mA. Dave

Can anyone identify this electronic assembly.

We just completed a one-week cruise to Put-in-Bay, OH and Middle Bass Island as part of a 3 boat flotilla (C34mkII, Oday 32 and Oday 34) from our home port of St Clair Shores, MI.
Standing at the Put-in-Bay fuel dock with Harmony safely moored, I noticed a gorgeous C34mkii approaching the dock. It was "Shamrock" captained by Jim Hardesty, returning home from a cruise. We chatted for a few minutes before I left to rejoin our flotilla group. Meeting a fellow C34 Association member, especially a genuinely nice guy like Jim was one of the highlights of the trip for me. It is a small world.

Dave  - "Harmony" 1999 MKII #1450.  St Clair Shores, MI

Thanks for the info, Dietrich. After much searching for a suitably large screwdriver, I ended up ordering a #4 Phillips bit from Advance Auto Parts ($2.99 + free shipping). The bit is a good fit for the screws and fits in a 5/16" socket.

I need to rebed the starboard grab-rail which is dripping inside the cabin under 2 attachment points after a heavy rain. Do the stainless rails come off easily after removing the large screws on the inside? I would appreciate any tips from folks who have done this repair. I plan to use butyl tape for rebedding. Thanks in advance.

Dave
St Clair Shores, MI
1999 Catalina 34 Mk II #1450

I built and installed a dual-bank battery voltage monitor on my C34 this spring and am very pleased with the results. It is a vast improvement over the low-res analog voltmeter on the Catalina electrical panel. Also, since it monitors both battery banks simultaneously, it can be useful for troubleshooting the system.

Dimensionally, the panel is a drop-in replacement for the old Heart Interface remote panel. To save power, there is an on/off switch for the displays. The voltage inputs are wired to the BATT TEST switch on the electrical panel. Total project cost is about $60.

I can provide Digi-Key part numbers and the panel design file if anyone has an interest in building one.

I located Peggy's "shock" treatment for water tanks on trawlerforum.com and will go through the procedure.

Thanks to all for the useful information. I'm happy to be a member of the C34 Association!

Dave

The fresh water strainer in our 1999 mkii, #1450, repeatedly clogs with black gunk. My dock neighbor has a 1988 Catalina 34 and he periodically cleans debris from his starboard tank with a shop-Vac thru an access port in the tank.

Does the aft water tank in a mkii have an access port? I'm guessing access to the tank is through the aft cabin.

If there is no access port, I'd be interested in alternate methods to get rid of debris in the water system.

Thanks,
Dave

My Freedom 10 is mounted under the galley sink.
Thanks for the help - I will trace out the connections.

Hi Stu,
I measured the current on the house bank positive cable with a Fluke 325 clamp-on meter.
There is no wiring diagram and the connections are not labeled. To further complicate, I had an outside company winterize the boat and they did not label the battery cables when they removed them. I traced them out and labeled this spring when I changed from 4x6V batteries to 2X12V for house bank. I am about 98% sure they are connected correctly.
When shore power is connected, battery voltage ramps up to about 14.5V on house bank and start battery (measured with Fluke 87V meter) so the charger appears to be functioning.
I realize that without a complete diagram it is impossible to guarantee things are correct. At some point I am going to have to trace everything out and document.
Having zero experience with the Heart Freedom 100 is what prompted me to ask the members of this group for ideas and advice.

Dave