Messages

hi,
Are the cushions still for sale?
Chris

Dietrich,

Would you happen to have a photo of it installed in a C34 , and any sketches to help me understand what will be involved? How many times have you used this? Is it expected to work with chain? what type chain will be needed?
Thanks, Chris

Dave,
Is the ZF10 still available? If yes, please provide history.
Thanks,
Chris

My problem turned out to be a clogged raw water inlet. Thanks to this discussion. I suspected steam in the exhaust may mean a leaky head gasket. I'm was very happy that wasn't the problem. Now I am looking to improve the inlet fitting by making it easier to clean while in the water. So we are looking for a hinged screen. Any suggestions.

Chris

Mick, You are correct. I traced my problem to a raw water inlet clogged by sea growth.  This was the first occurance since the boat was purchased 3 seasons ago.

On the outside of the hull, there's a screen type strainer on my seacock opening. It is difficult to clean with the boat out of the water, let alone in water. My plan is to change to a strainer with a hinged cover. 

The boat has a marelon seacock and thru hull fitting, which I'm guessing have a 3/4" inside dia.   We moor in Blackrock Harbor Bridgeport, Ct. which is a high growth area.

Thanks for your comments, Any further suggestions appreciated.

Where can I find discussion of How to determine cause of steam in the exhaust"?  I recently observed steaming from my 1989 25XP 2 weeks ago after reaching 160F. During initial pressure test of the engine water, it took 3 minutes for P to drop from 14psi to 9psi on a radiator tester attached to water access inlet on the exh manifold. I was unable to detect water coming from any cylinder with glow plugs removed. No overheating, engine temp stays at 160F, though steam is visible above 2200 rpm after engine reaches 160F.  I plan to repeat pressure test with engine cold, and if pressure still drops and no water observed in GP holes while spinning engine, I'll isolate HX and exh manifold and pressurized them. Calder's book suggested 2 causes, head gasket leak or unburned fuel. steam looks like water vapor. This discussion sound like 3rd possibility is low flow at mixing elbow which might be determined by measuring temp of the elbow. Am I on the right track? 

The front seal on my Hurth HBW50 is leaking. Should I and Is it sufficient to just check end play of input and output shafts, before replacing seal and reinstalling the engine/xmsn?  Also my near by Beta dealer says that any 1989 HBW50  is a risk due to a marginal design and that I should switch to their TWIN DISC / TECHNODRIVE model TMC 40 P marine transmission. I have no idea how many hours on my XP-25 engine. Boat is a 1989 catalina 34.

Thanks very much for sharing.

I am sure the toilet's overflowing from the waste tank, as the intake line was shut off. Also the problem occurred with the valve in the "Dry" position. Our intake is only fresh water from the Stbd tank. I believe my problem occurred due to the waste tank being full, and as the boat rocks, the water sloshing in the waste tank resulted in pulsating pressure on the joker valve. Perhaps the new J valve with be less sensitive.  If we overflow again, I plan to install the newer Jabsco toilet with the Twist'n'Lock handle, which is suppose to prevent flow back, or possibly an electric toilet.

Part of the problem was that , though we had just gone through a pump out, the tank was still filled. It turns out even with our vent line removed to prove we had a vented tank, the pump out station could not suck out much from the tank. So we'll try another station net time.

Any suggestions on how to determine that the W. Tank is near full?  I don't find tapping on the tank to be accurate. For now we plan on being diligent about pumping out.

Thanks again for your thoughts.
Chris

Yes, and I plan to reinstall another new one from Jabsco today. Jabsco instruction asks for 8" of hose height above toilet outlet.

There is not much pressure on the valve exerted by the existing installation.  I wonder if one of the newer toilets may be less in need of back pressure at the outlet.  Tank venting is good.

This topic has been moved to main message board as seemed more appropriate. please reroute as needed

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=8562.0

Our toilet discharge hose routes straight from manual toilet under floor under chart table and up to tank. The toilet overflows as I believe there's not enough water height above Joker valve to back pressure it closed. Is there a recommended best route for my 89 C34?   I plan to rerun sanitation hose with a loop located in the storage compartment behind the chart table with a max height about 10" above the top of the waste tank. Straight run up to loop from the tank, with exposed hose along hull surface under  the chart table. This will result in only one uphill run of hose, from toilet outlet to top of the loop.   I may add a vacuumn break to loop, but rather not.

Any help appreciated.

Hi,
Hope someone is still looking at this topic. I'd like to keep the bilge in my 34 drier. So I wonder if anyone has added a mast drain which routes the water into a bucket in the bilge. I plan to drill and file a square hole at the bottom of my keel stepped mast, as low down as possible and press in a 2" long  1/2" diameter or so plastic tube. Any prior examples or thoughts? I didn't see any in tech notes.

Thanks
Chris