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Messages - stevewitt1

#31
First, I've studied over and over the wiring diagrams obtained by searching for Alternator wiring.  Three diagrams drawn by Stu I studied but still can't relate.

My Goal:  Route my Alt charging circuit directly to my bat 1 to avoid any accidental disruption while switching batteries resulting in Alt damage. At this time, no upgrade of Alt (23yrs of deferred maintenance at the house cut into boat funds for summer.)


Presently, charge + output of Alt goes over to starter and shares a stud with the heavy wire going up to C post on OEM switch.
   note: OEM switches 1 & 2 both go to 1-2-B switches for a total of 4 batteries.

The wire leaving the Alt has a tap (like the old 3M connecters that routes a + to some gray thing that also has a ground wire on it>  WTH is that???? noise suppressor or something???  That is between the Alt and starter.

Questions:
If I run a cable from the Alt to battery 1, switch 1 and then use switches to distribute output underway do I need abandon the attachment to starter?  Will the redundancy of Alt --> Battery1 + post with still connecting to starter cause a problem, i.e. two paths to the same destinations???

I don't know if my OEM switch is a make, then break style but I would like to avoid make, break switches, combiners, isolators and other electronic components an, at least for now, use the KISS method.

That gray thing still bothers me, anyone know what it is???   Could it be an alien tracking devise?   Or, the NSA tracking me????   If it is, this hard drive needs to crash and get recycled promptly.

Any help on this is really appreciated!  Sorry for the remedial questions

Steve

visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com  www.warbirdsix.com and visit AirVenture2014 Oshkosh, WI
#32
Main Message Board / 1989 Mk1 OEM Microwave Parts
June 12, 2014, 06:11:30 AM
Hey all:

Just put a new nuclear oven in Forget-Me-Knot replacing the original GE microwave.  My magnetron tube must have been dying a slow and painful death.

Does anyone need the glass rectangular inside pan?  Just thought I'd check before pitching it.

Steve

visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com and www.warbirdsix.com

#33
Interesting Stu

My heater is a Seaward, but the manufacturer and model number are Atwood.

Seaward label on the front top but the serial, model plate/sticker are Atwood.

Steve
#34
Awe CRAP!
I talked to Atwood and they don't make a rear HX any more.  Called West Marine and they don't have one.  The configuration is different on West Marine's so I didn't think they used Atwood for a MFG.

See, I should have checked here first!   I swear, When my ship finally comes in, I'll probably be at the
airport!  :cry4`

Anyhow, $215 with shipping (+ the governor's beer money) seemed in the ball park.

Thanks Stu for the info.  I have guessed that it would be prudent for me to replace my HX hoses at the same time as they are probably OEM.

Steve

visit us at: www.ocontoyachtclub.com and www.warbirdsix.com


"A gun is kind of like a parachute.if you need one and don't have one,
you'll probably never need one again"
#35
Hello All:
I've read most of the post RE: water heater replacement but many are from a couple years ago.  I haven't been able to find a replacement for my WH configured like mine (HX hookups on the rear of WH)
Question:  Has anyone had issues making the bend in the front of the WH to hook up the 5/8 HX hoses?  Will I need to find preformed elbows?

All help appreciated!

Steve

visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com and www.warbirdsix.com

I didn't make it to the gym today. That makes five years in a row.
#36
lazybone

yours is a wing keel also?
Steve
#37
Hello all fellow Sailors.
Well the weather is begging to break here in Wisconsin.  I'm hoping Summer falls on a Sunday this year so I can go sailing......
I'm in the process of installing a new depth transducer on "Forget-Me-Knot"  The old one expired and I was able to find a 200khz replacement for my Datamarine Dart System. My old transducer was installed (by dealer I think) forward and port of the keel under the floor.  There is no direct access above it which may explain why it appears to be epoxied in place with resin so I think I can kiss that spot good-bye.  If I locate it under the forward starboard seat (my knotmeter paddlewheel is there) is there any risk of having the signal bounce up from the "wing keel wing" instead of the bottom???  I know this sounds dumb, but I guess it would be even dumber for me to install the transducer and have it give me a constant 3.5' reading.

I prefer a through hull installation, but could this be a time to try the "bee's wax or silicone inside the hull method first for this season?  I did a search on depth transducers but didn't see anything relating to potential interference from a wing keel.

Any help is appreciated.

Steve

visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com and www.warbirdsix.com
#38

I'm just about to put my annual coats of Sikkens on my handrails.  My PO did a great job keeping them up and I plan on continuing it, but good old Mr. Sun is a real badXss.  I just ordered some Sunbrella and binding so I will make sun covers for the handrails.  Keep the sun off them and they sure seem to keep looking like new.

Steve

visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com  and www.warbirdsix.com
#39
Main Message Board / Re: teak bright work
April 22, 2014, 01:04:14 PM
Hello All:

In my 38+ years of boating I've fought the teak battle like others, over and over.  Win some, lose some but seldom a draw. 

When I refitted my 31 Allmand I put all new teak handrails, toe rails, coaming box trim etc. on her.  All exterior teak I finished to Epifanes Tropical recommendations.  It all looked like it was encapsulated in glass.  Now, fearing Mother nature breathing over my shoulder, waiting to show me who's boss I had to act and act quick!
That's when I bought a Thomson Mini Walking foot sewing machine, a binder feeder, Sunbrella and matching binding.  I made sun covers for virtually all my exterior teak.  When I left the boat, covers went on.  The day I sold the boat all the teak looked like it was just finished.

Steve
#40
Main Message Board / Re: Hatch adjuster
April 19, 2014, 10:02:10 AM
Lenny
I have the same on my 89 Hull 854.  What I can attest to is that I've made the mistake of using the friction positions a couple of times (note couple, I'm a slow learner)  After the hatch slamming shut from the slightest of boat movement allowing the unexpected loud sound to jolt me to the point I believe I dislodged any plaque buildup in my arteries, I've learned not to trust them.

I'm interested in any hatch adjuster retrofit anyone is doing if pics could be shared.

Until then, with good weather, I open fully and use one of those muti-talented bungee cords to hold it open.

Steve

visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com  &  www.warbirdsix. com
#41
Main Message Board / Cockpit Canopy and Enclosure
April 08, 2014, 12:12:13 PM
Hello All:

I'm considering the addition of a cockpit enclosure/canopy this season. 

Does anyone out there have any photos of examples of good designs and what to consider; what to avoid?

Any help would be appreciated.

Steve

visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com
#42
Main Message Board / Re: A TRIBUTE to Ron Hill
April 08, 2014, 12:01:20 PM
Ron:

I've only been the proud owner of my 34 and a member here for two seasons.  I've participated in several other forum groups with different subjects mostly BOC or Bayliners Owners Club and have witnessed some things common between them.  That being a core nucleus of members that possess the highest level of knowledge in the forum's subject.  Basically only with the existence of this select group of members will the forum mature into a viable useful resource location which makes more owners gravitate to it.

You are one of those elite core members!  (there are several here so I won't name names for fear of not recognizing someones contributions)

Thank You, for all your help and advice.  Best wishes in every future endeavor and I hope you still participate in the forum (obviously a selfish request on my part)

May you live as long as you want and never want as long as you live!

Most Sincerely
Steve

visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com
#43
Main Message Board / Re: Back stay head bangers
March 27, 2014, 11:15:57 AM

SD Diver

Thank You!!!  I was beginning to think I'm the only one that hit's the Dodger!  Two seasons and I'm gradually reducing the frequency so we'll see how it goes this summer.  It can't be that different than the dodger I had on my Allmand 31 but my head sure finds this one!

Steve

Alcohol does not solve any problems but then neither does milk.

Visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com  and www.warbirdsix.com
#44
Susan Ray
What are the dimensions of that frame and door?  Is there a reason you didn't go with the louvered door?  Just wondering.
Did you use the space inside as it was or install a base and shelf?

Thanks
Steve

visit us at: www.ocontoyachtclub.com & www.warbirdsix.com
#45
Patchwork

My coax was routed in the storage locker just forward of the black tank, then up alongside the pumpout and vent hose, then turned aft to the back of the radio that is located above the electrical panel in my boat.
If you like good reception and transmission consider routing Belden 9913F7 coax instead of the RG6 stuff.  I replaced the coax in my mast and in the boat and my radio's performance shot through the roof.  Even the low loss white coax, especially if it's RG58 can lose significant signal through 60+ feet of coax.

Just my 2ยข

Steve

visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com  &  www.warbirdsix.com