Messages

I had the original little dome light on my boat.  I could always find my boat, it was the dimmest anchor light of the group. I replace the fixture with a new one "Whitecap Masthead Navigation Light" that was $13 from Defender.  Bought a 360 LED light, I think it was the GE 90 star.  The LED was a little too tall to fit under the dome so I made an extension spacer from starboard. Now my anchor light is the brightest of most boat anchored and when I turn it on, I can't hardly detect my amp meter even move.

Steve

Wow,
It's amazing at how such a simple device generates so much good conversations and ideas.

Phil:  I made one almost identical to yours two boats ago and it's still in my boat tool bag.  Just one of those hides I collect from another way to skin a cat.  I see this thread with a bunch of right ideas and no real wrong ones.  But then, I'm pretty simple minded.

Well;  belated Merry CHRISTmas and a Very Happy New Year to all of the great people on here.

I'll be driving my munchkin down to FL next week so she can run her marathon at Disney but she promised we could come home in time for the Strictly Sail show in Chicago.
If any of you are there, please say Hi!  I'll be the one walking around with his mouth hanging open drooling while looking at all the neat stuff I can't afford!

Steve

visit us at  www.ocontoyachtclub.com & www.warbirdsix.com

My baby is hull 854 so not the youngest girl at the ball.  I use, as recommended, synthetic in my TDI car but chose to remain with a proven conventional oil in my M25XP by sticking with Rotella-T 15W-40W.  I may be a little strange but even at todays prices I believe oil is the cheapest protection for your engine.  I target changing at 25-hrs which translates to a change midway through the 5-day boating season here in Wisconsin. (Joke)  I also change just prior to winter layup.  I believe it best to minimize any acids, etc in the oil system that remain there over the winter.

I also use PowerUp NNL-690 Oil Fortifier with every oil change.  I can speak from my own experience as PowerUp 690 eliminated a severe shifting problem in my 1998 Saturn SL2   I use PowerUp in every internal combustion engine, both 2 & 4 cycle as well as every gearbox, transmission. 

I'm not here to sell it but for those that like to see testing results http://www.powerupusa.net/index.php/tests/effect-of-power-up-nnl-690-oil-fortifier-on-lube-oil-anti-wear-characteristics

Steve

hey all:

Sometimes I think I ate dumb donuts for breakfast but I'm really having a hard time following the conversation here.  I hear references to screws, frames, the deck (not cabin trunk), the head and I'm still not clear on what is being replaced.  My 34 (1989) has two large plexiglass fixed windows on the "cabin trunk sides" and three opening ports overhead. (one in the main salon, one in the V-berth and one overhead in the head.  Then there are 6 (three on each side of the cabin trunk) opening ports as well as two opening ports in the aft cabin that open to the cockpit.

Apply 30# of lead weights eliminates the large plexiglass windows on the cabin trunk sides

Screws seem to eliminate inserts on overhead hatches but I have corner screws in my large plexi fixed cabin trunk side windows.

Or are we talking about the opening ones??

I haven't been able to visualize the spacers being talked about.

Someone please help steer this feeble mind in the right directions.
Thank You in advance


Steve

visit us at ......www.ocontoyachtclub.com and www.warbirdsix.com

Rob
if you're replied to via email, please forward to me.  I'd like to get mine changed before the weather gets too cold here.  

Sorta brings a tear to your eye, doesn't it?  All covered up and no where to go.....

Steve

Visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com  and  www.warbirdsix.com

Hey all

I have cabinets over my sink and I installed a red/white LED fixture under it as well as the same fixture above the Nav station. Cabin lights (sliders)replaced with 4-each side LED fixtures.  T5 lamps above ice box and stove/oven refitted with tube LED red/white over ice box, blue/white over stove.  These change colors depending on the switching sequence.  Used old fixtures after removing the ballast/starting circuit board.  Both lights in aft/cabin and V-birth replaced with new LED directional fixtures.  1156 bulb in head replaced with LED lamp. Now I just have the little goose-neck light at nav station to change.

Does anyone know a source of Navigation Light Approved LED replacements for red/green bowrail and white stern fixture??  Just read about the need to have approved replacements there.

Now, if I can figure out a energy free fridge and a easy pull start on my M25XP I can power my boat with 6 AA batteries, LOL

Steve

Visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com and www.warbirdsix.com

Hey Stu........You're showing your youth!!!

I flew my C172 from NE Wisconsin to Panama City, FL long before the days of GPS and it was very early Loran.  When we arrived in Fl we drove to Mexico Beach and fished the Gulf with one of my passengers brother.  His 26' boat was a electronic marvel.  It was a Loran with ONLY Grid and TD numbers in the two rows of I believe Cold Cathode tubes or better known as Nixie Tubes.  Back when I built my 26' sailboat we had a wet compass and chart, that's it.


Wow, have things changed...LOL

Steve

Thanks Stu,

I did just that last night.  After realizing the NSA is now probably dialed in on me from that search I did see the noise suppressors.  I didn't thing a diesel had that much ignition noise to warrant a suppressor. (just kidding)

Steve

Her All!

The full word on the greay thingy is RANGER

Steve

Thanks All!

I will work on the grounding improvement.  I agree about the strange yellow connector. 

The plastic bottle.......is a shield the PO must have installed.  It appears to just prevent an area of hose that may have been vulnerable to chaffing.

Thank You to all for the help and advise

Steve

Stu, and all;

This is the gray thing that is tapped into the AO wire that runs to my starter.
you can see the yellow connector that is like a heavier version of the old 3M connecters

Hmmmmm,

There is a fifth dimension beyond that which is known to man. It is a dimension as vast as space and as timeless as infinity. It is the middle ground between light and shadow, between science and superstition, and it lies between the pit of man's fears, and the summit of his knowledge. This is the dimension of imagination. It is an area which we call ... The C34 Zone.

Steve


visit us at: www.ocontoyachtclub.com  and  www.warbirdsix.com

Thank you Stu, those are going to be very helpful.  I still haven't figured out what that grey thing tapped into my AO line between the Alt and the starter is though.  I'll try to take a pic and post it as I'm not the best at describing things.  My concern is weather I should let it in the loop, dead end the original AO wire at it and take my new wire directly to the house battery.  It is tapped into the wire between the AO and starter but the current doesn't go through it.  It's got me baffled, but that isn't too hard to do.

Steve

Whoa, thanks Ron!

I just got an email that my new 150 was shipped today.  I know its coming with the sun cover on the starboard side.

Steve

Ken

I checked my cutlass bearing this spring the day before launch.  noticed some little signs of age on rubber but no slack or play.  It will be changed at haul-out this year.  Good preemptive maintenance that's easier done before its a problem.

Steve