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1989  Hull 854 for sale.  $38,500  Feel the desire to go bigger  Located on Bay of Green Bay, Lake Michigan
Fresh water only.  1299 hrs  excellent maintained.  2000w inverter with remote. 4-batteries 1-4D, 2-group 27, 1 Group 24 all AGM.  Newer 40amp charger with remote.  1.7 cu.ft. new Norcold 12 volt fridge under nav station.  Full Batten main with battcar system, newer 150% genoa with roller furling.  Dodger with sunshade.  newer VHF antenna wired with RG8.  Furuno 16 mile radar masthead TV wired with RG6 coax.  newer microwave.  newer anchor light LED.  All interior lights LED.  Salon and V-birth opening ports with sunshades.  Snap on screens on overhead hatches.  Custom cabinet over sink houses radar display and galley dishes.  Newer toilet. newer water heater with exchanger.  newer Standard Horizon with RAM3 full function cockpit mic.  Autohelm 4000 with remote.  Pedestal compass.  Datamarine Dart4 with repeater display on pedestal. Digitar Wind.  Cockpit shower, deck washdown pump.  Manual windless  Carry on AC.   wittspig@plbb.us or leave message at 920-846-3843

Hello All. 

When I fill my aft water tank and it gets full water spits out the vent onto the cockpit floor.  I have never seen any sign of water from my vent for the forward tank.  I found this to be a stanchion vent as in my waste tank.  One difference is, the stanchion that has the waste tank vent in it also has a small hole on the lower inboard side of the stanchion for the vent to breath.
My water tank stanchion vent has NO such hole and the two lifeline passages appear to have an insert sealed through the opening.
My question:  How does the vent breath?  Should there be a hole in the stanchion?
When the tank fills, water will geyser back up but never any sign of water from the vent.

Steve

Hey All

My manual calls for 3/8 halyards.  I currently have 7/16 which I want to replace.  I've read posts from the past discussing the two but haven't seen anyone address it from this angle...... My boat is a 1989 so I have the two 90 degree angles on my halyards to the cockpit thereby making is just short of an Olympic event to hoist the main from the cockpit.  So bad, I installed a winch on the mast and do it from there (not fun up or down in bad weather)  Could the 7/16 add to the loss of advantage while making the two direction changes resulting in the near ripping of hardware out of the deck while attempting to hoist the main?  Would the small diameter 3/8 line have less loss during the turns?  All my sheaves work fine.

I slept through my engineering and physics classes.

Steve

Visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com   and www.warbirdsix.com

Here we go everyone; remedial question #688 from Steve;

About the only leak (rain induced) I seem to have is the forward opening port that opens to the cockpit from the aft cabin.  It's not terrible, but I sleep on that side and feel the Captain should have a dry berth.

Question:  Has anyone taken these opening ports out to re-bed them?  If so are the vulnerable to breaking?  Are there any tricks involved?  They only appear to have screws on the inside so I"m assuming they screw to the outer frame part. I would really like to re-bed verses replace.  These are the only opening ports on my boat that have reliable screens that really work!

Another question:  Has anyone installed an opening port on the hull in the aft cabin?  Newer boats seem to have them there.  Would it require adding core material between the outer hull and the liner?

Any suggestions and help to the boating impaired (your's  truly)

Steve

visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com  and  www.warbirdsix.com

Hello all fellow 34-skippers!!!

I must tap the collective knowledge of all you experienced sailboat skippers.

Last year I ordered a new 150% Genoa.  Part of my order was to include 3 marks on the foot of the sail designating '130', 110', and 100% as a guide to tell me where I happen to furl the sail.  I've had these added to head sails that I've had made for my 27' Catalina and my 31' Allmand in the past.

Previously these marks were on the foot of the sail starting from the tack working back towards the clew.  When I furled to the first mark, I still had 130%, the second 110% and 100% when furled to the last.

On my new sail, the marks start close to the clew and work towards the tack.  I called the sail-maker and was told many sailors like the marks that way.  I have yet to figure out what to reference them to.


Does anyone here have furling marks on the foot of their sail from the clew working forward?  If so, what do you reference them too.

Sincerely
Steve

Please visit us at:  www.ocontoyachtclub.com  and www.warbirdsix.com

Help-Help-Help

I've been struggling with the age old decision, keep my boat (1989 C34 hull 854) or sell and move up to a 36 (I'd love a 350 but budget won't go along)

Keeping my 34, I've decided to upgrade the electronics; new depth, speed, wind, autopilot, radar and GPS.  I've been leaning to B&G because I like the wifi module and really like the 4G broadband radar.  The problem is autopilot.  I have an Autohelm original 1989 era vintage wheel autohelm.  It works good (except rear quarterly seas) but it has the old interface NEMA box and that works poor.  It seems that other than the Raymarine EV100 there aren't any wheel mounted choices.  Ok, that brings us to a below deck drive. 

Is it a huge job to install one?  Will I end up butchering things below deck to get one installed? What is the best choice of a drive, controller, etc?

I've seen a few threads dealing with horror stories of autopilots, strip gears, failed heads, repetitive failures if not precisely installed.

I'm not a mechanic, but I've installed a tiller autohelm (easy install on my 27' Catalina tiller steering years ago) and two hydraulic units on boats.  One on my 30' Sea Ray Sedan Bridge and on on my 3270 MotorYacht.

Any suggestions, comments, recommendations would be deeply appreciated.
Thank You all in Advance!!

Steve

visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com and www.warbirdsix.com

First, I've studied over and over the wiring diagrams obtained by searching for Alternator wiring.  Three diagrams drawn by Stu I studied but still can't relate.

My Goal:  Route my Alt charging circuit directly to my bat 1 to avoid any accidental disruption while switching batteries resulting in Alt damage. At this time, no upgrade of Alt (23yrs of deferred maintenance at the house cut into boat funds for summer.)


Presently, charge + output of Alt goes over to starter and shares a stud with the heavy wire going up to C post on OEM switch.
   note: OEM switches 1 & 2 both go to 1-2-B switches for a total of 4 batteries.

The wire leaving the Alt has a tap (like the old 3M connecters that routes a + to some gray thing that also has a ground wire on it>  WTH is that???? noise suppressor or something???  That is between the Alt and starter.

Questions:
If I run a cable from the Alt to battery 1, switch 1 and then use switches to distribute output underway do I need abandon the attachment to starter?  Will the redundancy of Alt --> Battery1 + post with still connecting to starter cause a problem, i.e. two paths to the same destinations???

I don't know if my OEM switch is a make, then break style but I would like to avoid make, break switches, combiners, isolators and other electronic components an, at least for now, use the KISS method.

That gray thing still bothers me, anyone know what it is???   Could it be an alien tracking devise?   Or, the NSA tracking me????   If it is, this hard drive needs to crash and get recycled promptly.

Any help on this is really appreciated!  Sorry for the remedial questions

Steve

visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com  www.warbirdsix.com and visit AirVenture2014 Oshkosh, WI

Hey all:

Just put a new nuclear oven in Forget-Me-Knot replacing the original GE microwave.  My magnetron tube must have been dying a slow and painful death.

Does anyone need the glass rectangular inside pan?  Just thought I'd check before pitching it.

Steve

visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com and www.warbirdsix.com

[I didn't make it to the gym today. That makes five years in a row.]

Hello All:
I've read most of the post RE: water heater replacement but many are from a couple years ago.  I haven't been able to find a replacement for my WH configured like mine (HX hookups on the rear of WH)
Question:  Has anyone had issues making the bend in the front of the WH to hook up the 5/8 HX hoses?  Will I need to find preformed elbows?

All help appreciated!

Steve

visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com and www.warbirdsix.com

I didn't make it to the gym today. That makes five years in a row.

Hello all fellow Sailors.
Well the weather is begging to break here in Wisconsin.  I'm hoping Summer falls on a Sunday this year so I can go sailing......
I'm in the process of installing a new depth transducer on "Forget-Me-Knot"  The old one expired and I was able to find a 200khz replacement for my Datamarine Dart System. My old transducer was installed (by dealer I think) forward and port of the keel under the floor.  There is no direct access above it which may explain why it appears to be epoxied in place with resin so I think I can kiss that spot good-bye.  If I locate it under the forward starboard seat (my knotmeter paddlewheel is there) is there any risk of having the signal bounce up from the "wing keel wing" instead of the bottom???  I know this sounds dumb, but I guess it would be even dumber for me to install the transducer and have it give me a constant 3.5' reading.

I prefer a through hull installation, but could this be a time to try the "bee's wax or silicone inside the hull method first for this season?  I did a search on depth transducers but didn't see anything relating to potential interference from a wing keel.

Any help is appreciated.

Steve

visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com and www.warbirdsix.com

Hello All:

I'm considering the addition of a cockpit enclosure/canopy this season. 

Does anyone out there have any photos of examples of good designs and what to consider; what to avoid?

Any help would be appreciated.

Steve

visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com

First of all, I know my search skills leave so much to be desired.  I did a search for "reciprocating saw" and "motor mounts" and only saw references to the use of a saw with cutlass bearing replacement, but I did see one thread reference the need for a saw when changing mounts. I read about changing mounts in the FAQ's but still didn't see any mention of the use of a saw

I think I've decided to go with the K75's  My boat is hull 854 and there seems to be enough vibration.  The engine has 1100 hrs but if original their going on 25 years old.

I'm also hoping to change them, one at a time.

Steve

visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com

Hello Group:

I went to the Strictly Sail and am seriously thinking of a set of davits.

Does anyone have experiences with davits?
Are they worth it?
Does a dink ride better on davits than being towed?
Does towing measurably affect speed?
I have a 10# RIB
Davits are rated for 300# per

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Steve

Sunday I decided (against every urge in my body & soul) to step my mast for the season.  After raising it about 2" above the tabernacle our gin pole broke.
Just glad nobody was hurt, or worse. 
Does anyone have any idea how much our masts weigh? With standing rigging and a Hood furling system attached?
Steve

Hey all;
Well evidently my search skills leave much to be desired.  I tried searching in the forums as well as doing the Google search in C34 for "spreader lights" without success.

Forget-Me-Knot Hull 854 1989 vintage has the "deck" light.  This provides a good illumination of things forward of the mast but aft of the mast you're still "in the dark."
Has anyone tried installing more conventional spreader lights (LED technology today) on your boat?
I don't think by deck light is exactly at the level of the spreaders so how will I wire them?
Is it possible to hit the tube in the mast?  without wrecking existing wires in it?

Open for suggestions...

Thanks in Advance
Steve

Visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com and www.warbirdsix.com

hey all

How do I know if I have Garhauer or Spinlock line stoppers?  It is the one on my starboard side that my main halyard goes through.  It appears to have broken?!?!?!  I think a coil spring broke on on the right side looking at it from the cockpit.

Are these repairable or do I have to spring for a new one???

If it is, can I do it?  the pins look pressed or knurled at the ends.  I don't think I saw a name on it.
My 34 is hull 854 1989 and I think it's an original piece of equipment.

Thanks in advance
Steve

visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com

Launched the Forget-Me-Knot last Sat and friends at the club really wanted to get my mast up then too for some reason. Didn't want to turn down the help so up she went. Problem turned out that my mast boot was in worse shape than I thought. (brittle)  The rains that night confirmed my suspicions. Ordered a new boot from Catalina Direct and searched the forum for help.  A couple did talk of cutting the new boot, then gluing it back together.  The new boot is LDPE and my research shows it next to impossible to successfully glue.
Has anyone had success gluing this materiel?  If not I think I'll just get one of the generic boots that states it can be cut and glued to fit.

Any help of suggestions are appreciated.

Steve

visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com and www.warbirdsix.com

Hey all:
I did a search but didn't see any info on my question (my search skills are limited)
Does anyone have the recipe (color combination) to match the Catalina gel color? 
I would like to keep it somewhere just in case as I repair any dings.

Any help is appreciated

Steve
"Forget-Me-Knot"  Hull 854  1989 model year.

Visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com  and www.warbirdsix.com

Hello All;
I'm planning on installing another thru-hull.  In the past those that I've installed have been "mushroom" but I want to install a beveled "flush" one now. I did a flush sending unit over 30 years ago.  Is there a good way to get from the major measurement to the minor measurement other that a grinding stone or rasp to make the angle??  I want to make sure I resin it also prior to the caulking and instillation.

Steve

visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com & www.warbirsix.com

changed title to include subject of question - Stu

Hello All
I was looking at the schematics for 110V in the Manual for the 1988 MkI.  My boat is a 1989 Hull 854.  It appears that all the outlets feed their lines from buss bars.  The Black (hot) leg seems to go back from the outlets to a couple of buss bars that are supplied by black wires that come directly from the 30 amp main breaker.
Is this correct??  Then assuming no other load, any individual outlet could be expected to carry a 30amp load before tripping the main breaker.  I had issues when I took my 2500W inverter and attempted to supply my dockside connection.  It would fault the inverter even with no load on the system anywhere, even with the 30amp main switched off.  Before I start checking things (my wiring included) I thought I'd familiarize myself with the 110V schematics.  It just seemed strange that outlets are only protected by the 30amp main breaker.  If that is the case, are the outlets wired with heavy enough wire??
Thanks in advance for any help.
Steve
visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com and www.warbirdsix.com

Hey All,
Let the spring fun begin!!!  Genoa sheet replacement, possibly a couple of halyards also.

What happened to just picking out the diameter?  Manual recommends dacron, most stuff out there is polyester.  My PO had 7/8" genoa sheet (yes, huge, barely fits in rigging) but I see the manual recommends 7/16".  Is that adequate or do most go 1/2?

Now, there's LS, LST, XLS, XLS Extra-T and Trophy Braid and those are just choices for the cruising guy, forget the Hi-Tech racing stuff (not me).

I have a 150 with furling.  I try to stay out of the Beaufort Force 12+ winds.
Which one of these seems to be the favorite of this group?  for sheets? halyards?


As always, any and all suggestions are appreciated. 


Sincerely
Steve
"Forget-Me-Knot"   

Yesterday I checked with Catalina Direct for rigging.  I want to replace my boom topping lift rigging but the only one they seemed to list is for the C36 standard or tall rig.  Am I missing something or don't they have any for the C34?  Is this a regular source or just a place for overstock items?

Thanks in advance for any help

Steve

visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com and www.warbirdsix.com

Hello All;

Just a newbie here, but I'd like to wish everyone a Very Merry Christmas.  That everyone benefits from celebrating the true message of hope from Christmas.

God Bless You All
Steve

P.S. Santa, if you are reading this, a nice multifunction display with GPS, 3D Sonar, 4G radar would be nice under the tree

Hello All
One of my projects this winter is to replace those fixtures that slide. (mine work on their own schedule and sometimes come on by themselves having been left off center)
I want LED and more light than the factory gave my boat when it assumed that I'm some sort of a mole or other nocturnal creature.  I also prefer to spend my time on the hook.(too cheap to pay transient fees) so, of course, I want the best of both worlds, more light and less power consumption.
What have others used to replace with?

Steve
visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com

I know I can get wordy, but when I post if my text reaches the bottom of the box I enter the text in it wont scroll down.  It seems that I can continue to add text, but I will only see the letter I type for a split second and then my view is up to the original box contents.

I hope someone understands what I'm describing.  I've posted and belong to other forums such as BOC, SaturnOwners, TDI group, etc. but I've only experienced this on this forum while all those other forums appear to operate with the same software.

Thanks in advance for any help
Steve

This year I purchased hull 854.  She's fitted with North sails.  My genoa seems attached to the roller furling extrusion at the luff by zipping around it.  It doesn't appear to have a cord sewn in and slid inside the extrusion.  After bringing the boat back in 25G35-40Kt winds with plenty of reefing it appears to have more wraps at the head than at the foot.  When furled I have two wraps of furling around the sail on the furling extrusion only to have it fail to wrap the next time with the furling line hauled all the way in the cockpit.

I know that I've been living in the "dark side" the last 11 years with my 3270 MotorYacht but I've never seen a head sail constructed like this.  Just want to know if this is the norm now and will I appear crazy if I call a loft and ask them to sew a luff tape and cord into my sail.

Sincerely

Steve Witt

      visit us at : www.ocontoyachtclub.com

Hello fellow 34'ers:

After this weekend and baking in the entire boat Sat night at Nicolet Bay in Door County I looked with envey thoughts of pillaging a couple fellow sailers crossed my mind as I saw their boats with these wind scoops in their forward hatches.

Which one is better?

Plastimo Hatch Scoop......more $$$

Windscoop be Davis......

I look forward you any owner comments

Steve


Visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com

I just installed a 2000w inverter.  I plug it directly into the shorepower outlet instead of shore power thereby no chance of feedback and no switch needed.

This issue:
When I plug into inverter, then into the boat, the alarm on the inverter goes on and no output.  This, inspite of having the main AC switch turned off and all breakers turned off.  Inverter works fine with cord and adapter then a shopvac running but goes in alarm when plugged into the boat without any load.

Any help would be appreciated.
Steve
visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com