Messages

[is to follow the manufactures recommendations!!]

pjco : The "obvious answer/solution to this problem"  is to follow the manufactures recommendations!!.
I'll need to take a picture.   

Sail : There are a number of things that you need to look at while the mast is down. 
I replaced my "dome anchor light" with a anchor light on a 2/3" pedestal.  It can be better seen and make sure that it will accept an LED bulb - less current draw.
I'd get replacement ball bearing mast head sheaves from Garhauer Maine. I have 7/16" line, but 3/8" will work.
Look at you steaming/deck light fixture and you may want to replace it.
Go to the C34 knowledge base and look at the article that I wrote about removing the mast and you'll get some more ideas. 

Steve : Very Interesting!!
Almost sounds as though they reached in to the C36 bin for the Port side spreader!! 

cliff : Don't know where you read that, but here's my 5/6 years of experience with LEDs.
I've got a boat full of LED lights, from the cabin to the engine instruments (which are on when the engine is running). 
I've never had any interference with the VHF radio!!  BTW, the cockpit VHF radio is mounted just under the engine instrument panel!!

Jeff : Here's what I did for my Xantrex True Charge 20 installation :
As I recall I used #8 wire as it went from under the nav table, under the floor to the batteries in the aft settee seat.  That requires a 25amp fuses in each of the 3 positive wires. 
The trouble that I found was finding a small fuse holder rated for 25 amps.  Most of the fuse holders and in-line fuses holders are rated for 20 amps. 
I finally found a Blue Sea AGC fuse block that is rated for 30amps.  It had 6 positions, but I was short of space (in the battery compartment) so I cut it in half.  It works great and the 1/2 cover stays on with a Velcro strap.   

Can : In layman terms what Stu has said is that with a 15amp service you will only be able to turn on ONE appliance (that has a heating element) - at a time!!

Bob : As other have said what you are looking for in "leeward angle"??, I believe are effects of wind and current. 
I don't think you'll find that in any "boat data".  If you do it'll probably be in a formula involving the area of the wetted surface, the vector velocity of the current and the same factors for the wind !?!? with the resultant being "leeward angle".   

Bob : It's imperative that you trace down your stray voltage as it can have damaging effects.  Here are two of the real world C34 examples:
1.  A early MKI had pod mounted instruments mounted on the Edson pedestal.  One of the instruments had a wire with worn insulation that was touching the inside mounting bracket.  The current went from the bracket, to the pedestal, to the steering cables, to the stainless rudder column and finally out to the water.  The result was the rudder column where it comes out of the layup had pin holes in it and was severely erroded.  It required an new rudder.
2.  When a MKII was having its deck mated to the hull at the factory, they pinched a 110v AC wire in that joint just where a stanchion was mounted.  After the insulation on the pinched wire finally deteriorated the C34 owner found to he had an "electric fence" not a life line!!  That was fixed by rewiring past the pinched wire.

Don't get mixed up between stray voltage and static electricity.  They both can give you a jolt.  I forget and will rub my shirt on the winter or summer cover and get "reminder-zap"
A few thoughts.   

Bob : You're in the sailing school.  Think it's best to ask the sailing instructors the question at the time they first mention an unfamiliar term.  Don't wait with a question till later.  We all learn from questions.   

Bob : What you need to do is check that stray voltage with the shorepower plugged in and then unplugged.  Keep trying items like battery charger ON and then OFF.  Check the other stays etc. Hopefully you'll eventually isolate it and find the cause.
As far as a shock from 12V DC or 110V AC, just don't wear rings or metal watch bands when screwing around with hot wires. AC/DC makes no difference as you could tear off a finger from a "knee jerk reaction" when you get zapped!!   

Dave : If you still want to uses "sheet bags" for your lines either make them yourself, or have any canvas shop make some new ones for you. 
It's really not that hard a task.  You already have the pattern!! 

Chris : As Stu said Catalina Direct and Catalina factory parts are 2 separate companies.
Look at our web site for the Catalina parts list and when you call the factory you can give them the "parts #"

For a holding tank call the factory
For outhaul blocks/sheaves call Garhauer (the factory and Cat Direct both get them from Garhauer!!)
For new galley drain pieces get them from West Marine or Defender (OR make the galley sink drain mod in the Tech Notes and NEVER have a leak again - the sinks will also drain 10 times faster!!)
For head sink drain pieces go to the factory.  Catalina direct MIGHT have that piece??   

Kerk : You've received some good advice for the future.  I believe what you should do is call your yard and ask them what they would be willing to do to keep your batteries up. 
They may even have a heated battery storage area!   

Bill : I would have made one of my own based on the curved design I mentioned in numerous posts.  It's best to have an emergency tiller that can function with the wheel off - for better mechanical advantage.
A thought.   Ron

Doug : Give your shower drain pump a try. 
However, ANY rotary pump should work. 
The expensive part of any pump is the motor, NOT the pump.  I'd call the manufacture of your pump and let them know you have a problem.  "A telephone call is worth a thousand Emails"
(a Ron saying!!)