Messages

Bill : I've heard marina owner complain that some cutless new bearings squeal!  Don't know if that's a cop out or for real. 
You might also want to make sure that your edges of your prop blades are squared off and not sharp. 
A thought. 

Guys : Garhauer made mine out of stainless and the price was RIGHT!!  A thought.

[TWICE]

Clay : As I wrote up in the Mainsheet (with pictures), I put mine in small "Rubbermade" boxes so I could snap on a lid.  I cut one inch holes in the side with chaff guard to protect the wires.  The lid keeps the wire connections protected from shorting with any others and keeps any dripping liquid out.

With all that said, I just had to remove/reinstall the engine from the boat TWICE and both times I disconnected all of the wires from the engine -- SO, I didn't use the connectors that I had installed!!
You might want to "hard" wire and just solder (then cover with heat shrink) those connections.  It's a lot easier than those "euro strip connectors".  Wish I would have done that, now that I know it's easier to disconnect all of the wires from the engine anyway!!!!!!   A few thoughts.   

[starboard AND port]

Charlie : As Jon said, it depends on how pitted the stanchion is (strength wise)!  I asked Garhauer marine and they made me up backing plates for both starboard AND port vented stanchons.  I favour polysulfide as it does a better job of adhering to stainless than some of the others (it also takes longer to setup).  Good luck.   

Guys : Just remember that you are the owner of an asymmetrical tank.  The tank is wider at the top than it is at the bottom. 
SO, when the float arm is horizontal (which should be half way) you really are down about 2/3rds! 
I wrote a Mainsheet Tech article on Replacing the Fuel Sending Unit.  A thought. 

Clay : The only thing that will make the temperature gage "jump forward" is that it's being grounded out and then ungrounded!  I installed a "Hi Temp press to test" and that's what it does intentionally (so I can hear the alarm sound)!! 
Not to sure about the V-meter. 

Bob : It would be helpfull if you gave your production year and your hull number!!  That info would keep us from guessing ? 

Bob : The easiest way to hang the shelf is to get a stainless tube (cut to length and some Bimini hardware) to secure it to the overhead and to the shelf.  Look in West Marine or Defender for those   hardware ends. 

Bill : I forgot one important item.  After you've stabilized the coolant (gotton out all of the air bubbles) NEVER open the cap to check the coolant level.  All you'll have to do is look at the level in the recovery bottle!!   

Cliff : It sounds to me like you have a blockage in one of the lines or in the water heater itself. 
Those lines are for engine coolant - NOT raw water. 

Bill : On the coolant recovery bottle - Fill it about 1/3 full of coolant.  It will have to cold/hot/cold cycle 3 or 4 times to get all of the air out of the system.  You don't have to seal the top.  Just put the hose into the bottle so it sits on the bottom.  Let the bottle be even or lower than the outlet on the reservoir.  Just make sure that the lower third(the botton of the tube) is in coolant.   

Bill : You can buy a replacement fuel sender from Defender or West Marine. 
I ONLY get Gates belts from an automotive store.  Gates is a great brand and hold up longer than the bargens.  A few thoughts.

Kirk : Take the point of a sharp knife and gently pry out the "button" in the center of the latch.  Then you'll see the screw head. 

prh : If you let that bleed valve cracked open about 1/4 turn, it will circulate the fuel back into the tank and "polish"(clean thru the racor filter) more of your fuel.  The valve is a standard right hand thread.
As Mike said, you'll also have a self bleeding system - a hint I picked up fro Joe Joyce Westerbeke Service Manager.  A Thought

Fou : The foam on the outside of the air cleaner is a noise suppressor.