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Messages - NewToTheRoad

#46
Tad,
  Good luck. I purchased an '88 last September and have really been enjoying it.  A "good" surveyor should be able to assess all of the most major things.  Take Stu's advice though and do some research into old posts and stickys.  In my experience surveyors will tell you they know Catalinas but nowhere near the knowledge base of this site.  So, you've come to the right place and will be better prepared when you do your survey.  One area that my surveyor missed was the damage done from leaking under the stanchion just above the galley icebox.  In my case, years of leakage (and neglect) caused the galley countertop closest to the hull to be rotted out to where I will have to replace at some point.  While not a deal breaker it could have been a negotiating point.  My understanding is that these stanchions on both sides house vent tubes (from water and holding tanks) and are "known" issues relative to leaks.

Bryan
#47
As usual you always come thru Stu.  Thanks!

Glad that you could get out on it.  Mine splashed yesterday, but then there's work to get in the way......

Bryan
#48
Main Message Board / CNG Question
May 03, 2017, 09:22:20 AM
I have read through a number of posts regarding CNG and venting.  From what I see from Stu and others is that only the regulator needs to be vented.  However, when my boat was surveyed in late 2016 the surveyor stated the following (see below).  Was this incorrect?  Does this not apply because the attached capacity is not greater than 100 cubic feet?  I am assuming that the attached capacity means that of the tanks holding the CNG ????  If that assumption is correct then it would be odd that the surveyor didn't realize that.

I just want to make sure that I get it right.

Thanks,
  Bryan


Location: Under berth/seat in aft cabin (dedicated locker).
Regulator: Yes.
Pressure gauge: Yes.
Shut off valve: Manual at tank.
Ventilation: Into cabin.
ABYC A-22, MARINE COMPRESSED NATURAL GAS (CNG) SYSTEMS requires: "For CNG installations that
include an attached combined capacity of greater than 100 cubic feet (2.8 cubic meters), the cylinders,
and connected valves, regulating equipment, and safety devices shall be located on the exterior of the
boat where escaping gases can flow directly into the atmosphere outside the boat, or the cylinders and
connected devices shall be installed in a dedicated locker. Dedicated lockers shall be vapor tight to the
hull interior, and vented to the open atmosphere outside the boat, and constructed of or lined with
corrosion resistant materials, and equipped with a means to discharge incidental accumulated water.
Dedicated lockers shall be equipped with a cover that opens directly to the atmosphere, and latches
tightly, and is capable of being quickly and conveniently opened without tools, and for operating the
cylinder valves, testing the system for leakage, and viewing the pressure gauge."
Recommend CNG locker comply with ABYC A-22 requirements.
#49
I spent many hours this past weekend doing this - both the wrong (3+ hrs until I quit) and right (1 hr) ways.  I thought I'd offer some tips from my experience to possibly make it easier for the next sailor. 

The wrong way
Quickly Scan the directions from Beckson and go your own route, thinking how hard could it be.  It took me 3 hours to get one seated, or so I thought.  My thumbs and forefingers still ache.  You will think you have the wrong size.  After testing with a cup of water it leaked into the aft cabin. 

The right way (follow the Beckson directions)
1.  Stretch the new gasket all around its circumference as you would a balloon, being careful at the seam area.
2.  Start by seating the legs of the gasket somewhere between 2 corners. 
3.  Once you get a bit of it seated, bend the gasket part away from the channel (where the leg is seated) so that you can get a your tool to seat the rest of the leg.  You would hear a snap but you will get some feedback that the leg was set in place.  Beckson suggest using a ruler but I used a wooden paint stir stick and it worked great.  The entire leg should go into the channel, especially around the dogs, or you will have leaks.
4.  You will likely still have to stretch along the way and the last corner won't be easy.  when you try and seat that typically another one pulls away.  By stretching and re-seating you will finally get it.
5.  Note:  Back off of the dogs before closing the windows as the new gaskets are not yet compressed.  If you don't you could break the Beckson lenses.


My second gasket took about 45 minutes, then I went back to the first and seated my work from the day before using the stir stick.  No leaks!

note:  You will know when the leg is properly seated as it goes ALL the way in, especially near the dogs and hinges which I couldn't get with my fingers.  If you see parts of it showing and you think it will be ok it will not be.  You will get leaks and the gasket may pull away when opening and closing the port.  The leg is intended to go ALL the way in. 

I was confused when I read the directions http://www.beckson.com/installgasket.html about bending the gasket 90 degrees.  I finally figured it was toward the port opening (not perpendicular to the track) and was for the purpose of getting the stir stick to seat it fully in the channel.

Here are a few pics to illustrate.  It should be 1 pic but I couldn't take and do at the same time.

Good luck!

Bryan



#50
Thanks Jim.

Boat splashed before I could fix it and I'm on a mooring, so I may just need to put this off for a while.  What I don't want to do is to create a bigger problem for myself while on a mooring.  My guess is that with the bolt frozen in place it's just as good as if the nut were still on.  And, i don't plan on crossing any oceans soon.

I will update this post with what I do and how it came out.

Bryan
#51
Main Message Board / Re: Dinette base restoration
April 26, 2017, 02:17:47 PM
Stu,
  I don't think your comment was directed at me, but I do see his point.  In my experience you can't really trust the label and there are environmental aspects like humidity and temp, YMMV.  And, also thickness of the formula, and what you cut it with.  I did it in my garage in New England in the winter so the air is pretty dry.  Florida in the summer would be different.  I'm pretty sure the can says recoat in 2 hrs at 72 degrees but my experience was that at 65 degrees it took at least 12 hours.  I also agree with you that the can, or website is a great place to start..
Bryan
#52
Main Message Board / Re: Dinette base restoration
April 26, 2017, 10:57:41 AM
I actually finished about 2 months ago and didn't install but a few days ago.  I imagine you are concerned about cure time so my case won't be much help.  They were not tacky at all after 24 hours.  I would have probably waited 48 hours to walk on them.  You can always call Jamestown Distributors.  They are typically very helpful and knowledgeable, especially concerning their own branded product.





#53
Paul,
  Who needs a dremel when a socket wrench shears them off.   :cry4` I wasn't trying to shears them just remove them.  Good idea on the ball pein.  Maybe I can get me one along with some Blast.  Will let you know.
Bryan
#54
Not sure how easily I can soak as it broke off pretty flush to the mounting bracket with no thread exposed.  It almost feels like the bolt was threaded into the bracket, but that can't be the case as these bolts were designed by Edson to be tightened by one person, below deck.  Or should I say designed to be snapped off by said person..

I'm attaching a pic that I pulled off the web (not my boat) showing how the hex heads are recessed in hex shaped holes to allow the tightening from below.  Mine has no rust on the base whatsoever though.  You could never get a wrench or socket around that from above.  Maybe if water was getting in (doubtful) from the bolts then I can get some oil in from the top.

I will try and bang from below a bit more to see if I can dislodge it.


#55
And this is how one thing leads to another..

Small leak in to back cabin which I feel is coming from the Edson Pedestal.  Looks like the previous owners attempted to fix with tape and caulk.  Anyhow, after researching some previous posts my plan was to back off on the nuts, lift up the pedestal slightly (if possible), and put some butyl tape underneath.  Until I sheared off the bolt.

Looks to me as if what's left of the aluminum bolt is corroded to the backing plate.  The entire nut came off as did the lock washer.  On their site Edson states as of 1987 they began using aluminum bolts to prevent corrosion.

I would think that I could just push the remaining up and pop the hex head out of the pedestal base.  No luck.  I can barely get a hammer in there and tapping the stub upward doesn't move it.  Could the bolt be corroded to the base throughout?

If I can't get it to move, is my only option to drill out the hex aluminum bolt from above?  Maybe a right angle drill from below????

Hard to tell from the attached pic but the back left is the one I mugged up..

Thanks,
Bryan

#56
Main Message Board / Re: Dinette base restoration
April 24, 2017, 06:16:23 AM
Some Before and After.  I had to shrink due to forum constraints but hopefully they show up well enough.
#57
Main Message Board / Re: Dinette base restoration
April 24, 2017, 05:56:01 AM

Base
The metal base was pitted after the blasting.  He used some filler, my guess similar to Bondo, and smoothed and primed.  At that point he told me he could paint it so we walked to the adjacent business that did auto painting.  Initially I was going to repaint myself but went this easy route.  As it was a change in plan we didn't match the paint before and only had the before picture to go by.  He brought out a bunch of auto paint swatches and we went with the one that had the most brass look to it - so not very scientific.  My thought was that the post is black so how bad could it be.

Floors
After reading up on all the options I used a heat gun (first time) and I think it was the good choice.  Be careful because you can burn the wood, as I learned on the first board.  I sanded the best I could but being a thin veneer I was afraid to do much.  I live just a few miles from Jamestown Distributors so I gave their TotalBoat brand a try.  First I did 2 coats of their Varnish Sealer (front and back).  Then on the fronts I did 4 coats of the Lust Spar Varnish (gloss).  They also have matte finish.  Gloss does reflect the imperfections well.  Overall I think they look 100% better, but nothing like new.  They have a lot of character - aka chips, scratches, and nicks.  What I like about TotalBoat Lust Spar varnish is you don't need to sand between coats if you recoat within 24 hours - at least for the first 3 coats.  I did a total of 4 coats over the winter.

note:  The Lust Spar Varnish is like a thick syrup.  The first coat came out uneven and lumpy so for the remaining 3 coats (after sanding first coat) I cut it with TotalBoat Brushing Thinner (they recommended) and the results were much better.

I will post some before and after shots.
#58
Main Message Board / Re: Dinette base restoration
April 23, 2017, 07:09:37 PM
Before image

#59
Main Message Board / Dinette base restoration
April 23, 2017, 06:53:23 PM
I was refinishing the cabin sole over the winter and just couldn't get past the look of the old, corroded base.  So I took it to a local metal shop to get it sandblasted, which left it pitted.  He offered to smooth it out and have the body shop paint it.  Yeah, why not..  The admiral thought it was a waste until she saw the finished product.  Came out pretty nice IMO.

#60
Absolutely Gary.  Will help as much as I can.  I learned everything from this site myself.  Once I started researching I found that the 50W didn't cost much more (Amazon or Ebay pricing) and sometime a lot less than some of the smaller panels touted as trickle type chargers.  I found the 50W flex to be a good compromise and one that is expected to meet my power needs and then some.  Probably overkill but the extra juice will just top off my batteries all the quicker or just be less conservative.  It's also easily expandable if I wanted to go with more or larger panels as the controller is rated at up to 200W.  I opted for mounting on the back rail ($30 bracket on Amazon) but you can go bigger and more stealthy on top of your bimini\dodger.  I would have done that with 100W flex panels

Here's a great link from the Electrical Systems 101 thread on this site.  It will give you a great primer on the topic.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/solar_panel