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Messages - NewToTheRoad

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Main Message Board / Re: Oberdorfer Impeller kit
« on: June 20, 2018, 02:27:06 PM »
LOL.  That's what I did to make sure the feed tube wasn't clogged.  Expect water.... :D

Main Message Board / Re: Oberdorfer Impeller kit
« on: June 19, 2018, 11:34:10 AM »
Thanks K!

Main Message Board / Re: Oberdorfer Impeller kit
« on: June 19, 2018, 07:37:08 AM »
  Good tip but I didn't have a problem with the initial prime, after changing.  The problem came after motoring, then sailing the next day.  I found that to be odd, because why did it prime initially, and then lose it?  Maybe the gasket got wet and allowed air to seep in?

Main Message Board / Re: Oberdorfer Impeller kit
« on: June 19, 2018, 06:26:03 AM »
Last year I went to change the Impeller for the recently purchased boat.  There was no existing gasket, and I didn't feel that the replacement paper ones fit well (oberdorfer brand kit) so after ripping two of them I decided not to use one. No issues all season.

This year I bought an impeller off Ebay (probably a knockoff) that came with both rubber add paper gaskets.  I was able to get the paper gasket on without tearing it, so I used it.  Fired up the engine, water coming out the exhaust. Next day I motored for 45 minutes then sailed for 3 hours.  When I started the engine to return to the marina, I noticed and odd sound, in following seas, like coughing.  Uh, oh, no water being expelled.  Temp rising to 180. 

Diagnosing, back at the dock it looks like I may have lost the prime.  Tried at the dock, no luck.  Put in the old impeller, threw away the gasket, and voila.

So, my question is, is the gasket really necessary?

Oddly, the replacement impeller seemed to work fine, and initially primed at the dock.  Side by side the knockoff and oberdorfer look pretty identical.  I guess the problem could be the knockoff impeller, or that I used a gasket.  In any event now I'm a bit spooked so will likely order a replacement oberdorfer brand. 

note:  I followed the advice and tossed the snap ring for easier replacement underway if this occurs again.  TBT I was towed in..

Main Message Board / Re: Alternator alignment issue
« on: June 18, 2018, 11:18:37 AM »
  I have not had it off yet.  I have read the post about the incorrect bolts, but didn't factor that in.  You might be on to something but yes, I need to put a straight edge on to be sure.  As soon as I do I will post back.


Main Message Board / Re: Alternator alignment issue
« on: June 18, 2018, 10:18:00 AM »
Better image

Main Message Board / Alternator alignment issue
« on: June 18, 2018, 09:59:43 AM »
So it looks like the PO at some point replaced the alternator, but it has no markings so I don't know what it actually is or what it's rated for.  What I do know is that there is a lot of belt dust which tells me it's out of alignment.  It's a bit difficult to tell from these pics but I'm pretty sure the alternator needs to go slightly further aft.  From what I can tell though the alternator bracket itself (bolted to front of engine) is flush with the engine with no shims.  Therefore I can't see how it can slide any further aft.  I think my 3 options are:

   1)  Change belts yearly and live with the dust (replacing one in pic with a Gates belt this week)
   2)  Replace the alternator with one that fits better ($$)
   3)  Have someone machine a custom bracket that allows the alternator to be positioned aft ($$) - There is a hose just under the tension bracket that could make this tricky.

Are these my only options or am I missing something?

note:  will use straight edge against the pulleys to determine actually how far out of alignment


I used 5" x 12" and purchased from West Marine.  Mine is a 1988.

Main Message Board / Re: New York to Bahamas
« on: April 18, 2018, 05:37:08 AM »
Very cool.  Living the dream.  Where in the Bahamas?  I hear the Abacos are colder and more susceptible to the northern fronts (wind and cold) in the winter and that the Exumas are a better choice.  I'm curios as to your experience.  I'm thinking of doing the same in a few years.

Winged or full keel?  Any depth issues for you?

Main Message Board / Re: Mounting buss bars in battery compartment
« on: February 16, 2018, 04:58:22 AM »
The Tech Wiki has some good articles and pics in the Electrical section.  I like this one as it's very comprehensive - check out pics 62-64.  I did something similar for my bus bars, following this article.

good luck!


  Most C34's MK1's that I see out there are 30 - 45K range.  I have seen a few come up for sale in the 20's and yours at 19 is the lowest I have seen.  I agree with the last response.  List out the upgrades that you want to make to turn it into a liveaboard and see where your total shakes out.  Then decide if it's worth it.

   If you think so, and you want the project, you could offer the church $15k contingent on survey.  Get the survey.  Might be around $500.  Not sure where you are but based on how things go you might want to mandate a sea trial as a last step.  All this helps to minimize your risk.  If they take $15k then you have $15K for upgrades and storage right?  Yes it will add up but if you do your own labor it will go a long way.

   I got my C34 last year and the survey came in at $25K.  I paid quite a bit less.  Everything worked and engine had less than 1200 hours.  With a bit of elbow grease she cleaned up nicely.  I had similar leaks port and starboard that the original owner neglected.  They are from the the vent tubes that go up through the stanchions, a common C34 problem that can be fixed by rebedding stanchions.  Had original rigging and 20+ year old sails.  Also very basic like it came from the factory - no battery charger, inverter, refrigeration, heat\ac, autopilot, windlass, radar, gps, or large battery bank.  However, being a day sailor it worked fine for me.  Yours being a liveaboard might mean you need or want many of those things.  I pulled the trigger because I wanted to sail a C#$ NOW - not in 1.5 years.  My thought was that upgrades could come over time, as needed, if ever.

     Regarding your math.  You say you have $26K now but $30K by end of year.  IMO being at $30K almost puts you at striking range for the boats being offered at $35-45K.  So if you pass on this one there will likely be another in the next 1.5 years in better, liveaboard condition.   What about additional boat fund savings during the next 1.5 years prior to moving aboard?  Won't you be able to be adding more $ to your boat fund over that time?  Are you figuring that in?  If so why not get to $35-40k savings and get an upgraded C34, non project boat?  If you don't plan on sailing anyway for the next 1.5 years why not wait and get the C34 that you dreamed of, with much less risk?

    I guess it really comes down to assessing your liveaboard needs, seeing what an upgraded C34 similarly equipped would cost you, and then working back to the church boat from there. 


Main Message Board / Rebedding needed?
« on: October 25, 2017, 07:03:38 AM »
After my first sailing season with the new boat I notice some staining around the chainplate hardware on the deck.  Oddly, in the sunshine it looks more to be a pink color than anything else.  However due to it's proximity and inability to wash off I am thinking it must be rust staining perhaps from water getting underneath.  Maybe it's time to remove, clean, and re-bed with butyl.  I know that the PO had never done that.  Am I on the right track here?


Main Message Board / Re: Spinnaker
« on: October 25, 2017, 03:49:36 AM »
Nice pics!

Main Message Board / Re: bilge hose and check valves
« on: October 11, 2017, 09:29:05 AM »
I went with the vented loop (under galley sink) this spring.  It has worked well all season.  I will be winterizing soon so I imagine I will just put some antifreeze in the bilge and run it through.  Installation was pretty straight forward (I'm an amatuer).  There is a wiki on it including parts needed but I can't find it.  Here is a post,9076.msg65895.html#msg65895

So, i vote for the simplicity and safety of a vented loop.  I use a Rule 3700 and the cheap corrugated Trident 1.5" hose from defender.  Smooth is probably better for flow.

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