Topics

Poking around a bit, I noticed the PO only completed 1/2 of the harness upgrade near the engine panel.  The plug in the engine compartment looks to be in a tight spot.   I assuming there wouldn't be any issues running new wires directly from the engine locations to the engine panel itself and bypassing the plug/new terminal strip locations.

I pulled the handrails last weekend to re-finish.  I was able to unbolt all the bolts from the inside except on three of them.  The bolts were spinning so I had to remove the bung and use a screwdriver.  When re-installing, should I put a small amount of epoxy on the bolts to keep them from spinning when tightening?  I was planning on installing new bungs on the ones I had to remove, apply the cetol.  Then when re-installing, I could tighten the nuts from below without having to get at the top of the bolts and install the bungs later.

I want to cut an opening where the vent slats are located in the hatch board and install a piece of plexiglass.  I was thinking of routering the opening so the plexiglass would sit flush.  Should I install the plexiglass on the inside of the hatch or the exterior?

Does everyone have what our family calls..."Smells like the boat". Anything left on the boat for an extended period of time seems to acquire it. Clothes/fabric seems to get it the worst. We store the bedding in waterproof duffel bags when not in use with the tops rolled shut. Still get the smell. Clothes left in drawers with blocks of aromatic cedar get the smell. Books pick it up. Pretty much everything.
When we go to the boat most weekends and first open her up, there isn't any noticeable odor at all.
Every couple of weeks we wipe down all woodwork and wood sole with a wood cleaner. Countertops/head always cleaned with Fantastic/Lysol spray cleaner.
I can't place the smell. It's not really a musty/moldy smell. I always wonder if it's a fiberglass smell? Had it on our first boat and now on our second and it smells kind of the same. That's what's leads me to think it's maybe fiberglass odor?  Or maybe it's the salt air from the ocean.  Do those of you on fresh water have this problem?

Didn't want to change the subject on the other thread.  Changed to the steel control levers at the beginning of the summer.  Engine wouldn't go into foward all the way.  Had the mechanic come down, he adjusted I'm assuming the cable and it's worked all summer.  The lever would hit the pedestal guard but it seemed like it was at the end of it's throw.
Out last weekend. Motoring out it feels fine.  After dropping the sails, my wife said it didn't feel like we were fully in forward.  I drop in into neutral then put it into forward again. 
I'm not sure because my wife mentioned it and I had it in my head or I actually felt something but it didn't feel like we were fully in forward.  The lever is pressed against the pedestal guard so I couldn't go forward any more.
Looked at the knot meter and we were doing 5.1 knots. 
I straightened the lever this week and now with the lever fully forward, I have about 3/8" gap between the lever and pedestal guard.
If forward wasn't fully engaged when I was motoring,  would I have been able to go 5.1 knots.  The throttle wasn't all the way forward either so I know I could have gone faster.

Anyone happen to know what bulb is needed in the original steaming/deck light on an 86 MKI?  Steaming bulb is out.  Was trying to get out of going up the mast twice if i didn't have to.

Anyone know where I can get some fish net webbing.  I want to install some small hooks on the port and starboard cabin shelving and install webbing across the shelves to stop everything from falling out when heeled over.

Where does everyone store their hatch boards?  I can't seem to find a good spot except the shelf in the v-berth.  And do you have a sunbrella case/cover for them.

Now that I have my anchoring question answered I have a question about mounting my new Manson on the "toy roller" which is on the boat.  I have a 1986.  I read a bunch of posts and have seen pictures so I know the anchor will mount on the roller. My question is: how do I get it to stay in place.  Never had a bow roller on my C-30.  Always kept the anchor in the locker which was a pain.

Could I drill a small hole through the anchor and use the current pin on the roller to hold the anchor in place?  I'm assuming the anchor is galv. plated.  I'm thinking if I drilled through the galz plating would be compromised around the hole and would lead to future rusting?

I've seen pictures where others have tied a short length of rope from the pulpit to the anchor.  I can see how that keeps the anchor on the boat but does the shank bounce around?

I've seen a couple of boats at my marina who removed the roller pin and install what looks like a boom bail which would keep the anchor from bouncing out of the roller.

Depending on what others think I was thinking of using the boom bail idea on the roller to keep the anchor from bouncing out of the roller while sailing.
To keep the shank in place I was thinking of installing a u-bolt in the anchor locker with a piece of s.s. cable.  One side secured around the u-bolt, the other side with a hook or caribiner.  When the anchor is pulled up and snug in the roller, I would attache the hook/caribiner side to a link in the anchor chain to keep the anchor from falling back in the water.

Thoughts, suggestions.

Read a bunch of older threads on anchors in the Anchoring 101 and decided to upgrade the Danforth which came with our '86 to a Manson Supreme.  From what others had said, you needed to watch out backing it down because it would stop the boat short.  Used it for the first time this weekend and must not be doing something right.

Would throw the anchor overboard, in soft mud, 20' of 5/16" chain attached, let out about 2/1 scope.  Let boat drift with current.  When it seemed the anchor was slowing us down/starting to set, my wife would put in reverse and start giving some throttle.  We would immediately start to drag.  Tried this a couple of times same result.  Ended up throwing it over, letting us drift with the current until the boat stopped, then let out 6/1 scope and held all night.

Next day different anchorage, same soft mud bottom.  Threw anchor, chain, and about 3/1 scope in rode, immediately put in reverse with some throttle and started dragging.  This happened a couple of times.  Ended up re-setting and just drifted until anchor set.  Sent out 6/1 scope.  Held for 3 days in up to 20-25 knot winds.

What's the best way to get the anchor to set.  Do I let out the rode to the scope I want.  When the boat feels like it's set then put in reverse with some throttle?

Was on the boat the other night.  When the boat was rocking side to side pretty well, there was a banging coming from inside the mast about 6' above the deck.  Thought it was the wiring.  The next morning I was poking around.  There was an unused halyard opening right around the 6' mark.  I made a small hook in a metal coat hanger and stuck it in the halyard opening.  Poked around and grabbed onto something.  Pulled and I heard the banging noise.  Sounded like something solid and heavy hitting the mast rather than just wiring.  There shouldn't be anything in the mast should there be?  I'm going to try to put a flexible camera I have at work in the halyard hole to see if I can figure out what it is.

Had some water in the bilge.  Sucked it out with a shop vac.  The section just aft of the mast I had almost completely dry.  Section behind that had a little water but just in one small area.  Was working on something else for 15-20 min.  Looked back in the bilge.  In the section just aft of the mast, there was a little puddle of water around each keel bolt.  Sucked the water out again. Came back the next day, water in the same spot.  Could water be getting in between the keel bolts and when I'm draining the bilge some of it works it's way up from below?  When I first splashed it this spring the bilge was bone dry for 2 weeks before it started raining so I know I'm not getting any water leaking in from the keel.

On the MK I, where do you store a trash bag or can.  For the few times we have been out, we've had a small trash bag we end up placing on the galley sole.

Just realized my water heater is cracked somewhere.  Water keep dribbling out the bottom of it.  At least now I know where all the water in the bilge is coming from.
Two questions. 
1.Will the water heater fit through the access door or do I need to remove the counter? 
2. If I decide not to replace it, at least for now, can I just connect the cooling fluid lines together with a coupling.

Was thinking of making the space a storage area.  Never had hot water on the old boat and so far don't really use it on this one.  Mostly weekend cruisers with the kids in the summer so hot water has never been a big demand.

Anyone know what size the corrugated bilge pump tubing is.  Looks like 1" but I forgot to measure before I left the boat.

Just installed a new Engel refrigeration unit in the icebox.  What should the temp in the icebox be.  I'm at 48* now.  Didn't know what the average temp should be.

Also, there is frost on the evap panel.  It's a flat plate about 24"x10".  Is frost normal?

Looking to install some ventilation in the head.  There is a solar vent but with the dodger on it doesn't get enough sunlight to operate.  Any other options?  We typically keep the door shut while underway and it gets rather warm inside.

Was motoring yesterday. Noticed the temp gauge wasn't working at all.  When I turned off the engine, but still had the key inserted, I noticed the engine temp was around 160*.  Once I pull the key out it drops off.  Put the key in and it starts climbing.  Turn the key to be able to push the glowplug button and temp drops to 0.  The volt meter, gas gauge & tack are all working fine.  I'm assuming something is mis wired in the engine panel?

Does anyone have a Reefer 1 or 2 furler.  If so would you have a manual.  I can't figure out when I pull the wire internal halyard down to raise the jib, where do you attach it once the jib is all the way up?  Mine has a shackle on the end of the wire halyard but I can't figure out when it goes.
Also, do you use a shackle to attach the top of the jib to the small sail slide that rides in the furler sail track?  I think the PO used rope which I didn't think looked like a good idea.

Has anyone installed a cockpit shower in a MK I boat.  If so, where did you install it.  I was thinking on the port side under the engine panel close to the cockpit sole.  You would need to shower standing behind the wheel.  Just thinking it would keep the cockpit dryer than showering in the middle of the cockpit.  Also someone could stand on the swim ladder and rinse off.

I removed the original window curtains and tracks.  There are rust stains around the screw holes.  Is there anything I can use to remove the rust spots?  If not I may just cover the holes with short screws and finish washers.

I found a knob on my pedestal that locks the wheel in place when tightened.  Can this be used while under sail/motoring or is it only to be used at anchor/docking.

I want to replace the black plastic sliding doors over the galley and nav table.  Mine are scratched.  I can't figure out how to get them out.  On my old C-30 you could lift them up, the bottom would pop out of the groove and they could be taken out.  The ones on my C-34 won't do that.  Any idea on how to replace them?

I took the boat on it's maiden voyage yesterday.  Just motored up to my marina.  Put the gear shifter in reverse, back out of slip, put into forward, boat started to slow down but no forward progress made.  Gave it more throttle, lots of splashing water at the stern but no forward movement.  It seemed to be doing something since we stopped in place but wasn't going forward at all.  Reduced the throttle and all of a sudden we were going forward.

I noticed when I was at the dock & playing with the shifter, when I would go from reverse to neutral, you could feel a clunk when it popped out of reverse into neutral.  When going into or out of forward, then is no clunk or bump.  Also, I can push the shift lever all the way until it hits the pedestal guard when going in forward.  It feels like it would go farther if the guard wasn't there.

I want to install my Garmin 545 on the pedestal.  I haven't had a chance to look yet but does the base of the pedestal rest on the cockpit floor or does it penetrate the floor?  Wondering if I have to drill up from the aft berth to get into the pedestal rail and if so, will I need to seal around the hole so water doesn't get in the aft berth?  Would I access it from the fiberglass pedestal cover in the aft berth?

Boat was put in the water today so I ran down for a few minutes to make sure there were no leaks.

Figured while I was there I would try to start the engine.  Never had a diesel before.  Previous boat had an Atomic 4.  Had the boat delivered last year and there was no problem with the engine.  Before I put it away I ran the engine to winterize it.  Had trouble cranking over but I knew the batteries were at the end of their life.  Eventually started and was able to winterize.

Bought new batteries 2 weeks ago.

Hooked up the engine battery.  Turned the key, alarm came on, pushed glowplug button for 30-40 seconds.  Pushed the start button.  Engine doesn't sound like it's cranking correctly.  Cranking sounds slow.  Pushed glowplug for 1 minute, tried again, same thing.  Tried again, same thing.
Went back down below.  Smelled a burning smell near the battery.  Didn't see any smoke or anything burnt.  Pulled the engine cover off.  No burning smell near the engine.

Checked the battery cables.  The positive connection at the battery terminal was very hot to the touch.  Never experienced that before.  Is that normal?  I brought home the manual to read tonight.  Flipped quickly through the troubleshooting pages near the back but didn't see anything.

Reading some of the engine posts here maybe it's a fuel issue but seems more like electrical.  Not sure what the engine cranking sound should be.  I'm expecting a typical fast engine cranking sound.

Any ideas?

Sanded and re-finished the teak/holly sole this winter.  Should be re-installing in a few weeks.  Does it need to be screwed down or can I just lay the panels in their spots.  When I pulled them, the PO didn't have any of them screwed in.

Anyone want a CNG tank and regulator for a CNG stove.  I removed the stove and don't need the tank it anymore.  Works fine.  Was holding 700 lbs of pressure before I emptied the tank today.  Free to whoever wants it.   I'd rather give it to someone local who can pick it up.  Located in RI.

Anyone happen to know the shaft size on the MK I.  I'm going to the Defender sale tomorrow and wanted to pick up a bunch of zincs.

Insulated the ice box on my 1986 yesterday.  Still have a bit more to do but got all the hard spots filled.  I had pulled the countertops off to make new ones so I had the bare fiberglass underneath the countertop to drill holes around the voids on the sides and back of the ice box.  I found out, the top 2" or so all around the box was already filled with spray foam from the factory.  Everything below had no insulation. 
I had pulled out the 3 drawers and frame to get better access.  Between the icebox and oven side there is a 1" gap.  I had already removed the oven so I drilled a bunch of holes in the side and injected the foam.  To get to the back, I drilled a couple of holes along the top almost against the hull.   This let me gain access to the back area.  There looked to be a 2-3" gap there.  The bottom I was able to get at when I removed the 3 drawers as well as 2 sides of the ice box facing the 3 drawers and the dinette seating.  These to open sides I need to finish insulating. 
I ran out of foam.  I had bought 2 2-part mix containers of spray foam.  Comes as a kit.  There are 2 containers attached with a hose an nozzle.  It handles 12 board feet.  12 sq ft x 1" thick.  Used up both of these then ran out and bought 6 cans of spray foam at Lowes.  The two open sides I plan in spray foaming 1 side of 2" thick styrofoam board then press the board against the ice box.  If you just spray the foam on the side of the box the weight of it makes it fall off.  Figure if I spray it on the styrofoam then press that against the ice box, it will fil in any gaps along the icebox.

I'm replacing my refrigeration unit on my 1986.  The compressor is currently located in the stern lazzarete.  Is this a good spot for the replacement compressor?  I read up on some old threads.  Another location would be under the dinette seating.  Looks like I'd have to cut in ventilation grilles for this location.  Wondering on the noise of the compressor as it cycles at night.  Are the units noisy?  Only comparison I have is the 12v refrigerator on my C-30.  Used to make a humming noise when running.

I'm planning on replacing all the plumbing hoses on the boat.  In our area, we have to get our plumbing inspection by the DEM.  On the pump out line we are supposed to have a Y valve installed.  One line to the pumpout, one line to the macerator.  There is supposed to be a lock or something on the macerator side of the Y valve so you don't have accidental discharge.  I'm in Narrangansett Bay in RI.  Looking at my tank, there are 2 holes in the side, one high for pumpout, one low for macerator.  To comply with DEM I'd have to cap the low hole.  Was thinking of replacing the tank with only 1 high hole and a pickup tube which reaches down to the bottom of the tank.  This way I'd never have to worry about the cap leaking and a mess on the boat.  If I'm off shore, do you think the macerator would have enough head to suck through the pickup tube?

My boat doesn't have a battery charger.  Plan on installing one this season.  Where is a good place to install it.

I removed my galley sink as part of a larger countertop project.  Looks like it was only held down by silicone.  When I re-install I'm planning on doing the same thing.  For others that have done it, how do you make sure you get a tight seal.  I was thinking of putting some 10 lb weights along the edge to make sure it sealed well?

Also, in front of the faucet there is another small 3/8-1/2" hole.  Mine has a cap installed.  I've seen others have a small faucet with no valve handles?  What is the hole supposed to be used for?

Went down to the boat today and found 3-4" of water in the bilge.  I had sucked it dry about 2 weeks ago, it had water from the water heater in it when I disconnected the plumbing to the water heater.  Boat is on the hard.
Mast is out.  Mast hole is covered.  There is a tarp covering from the front hatch to the cabin opening and covers about half of the opening ports & windows on each side.  The tarp is 10'x20'.  Lays flat on the deck no frame.  Water heater is empty, water tanks are completely empty.  The new water in the bilge is clean/clear so I'm assuming it's rainwater.  Ports/windows don't appear to have leaked.  No noticeable water in the cabin anywhere.
Are there any known areas I could check for intrusion?  

Anyone know the nut size on the ends of the chainplate rods.  Wanted to pick up a ratcheting box wrench before I went to the boat again.

I was at the boat today doing some work.  The 4 ports in the main cabin had leaked from rain the night before.  They haven't been leaking so I'm assuming when I removed the screens and gasket to re-install the chainplates, I didn't get the gasket on correctly.

I did notice that since the port is on an angle, there is always a bit of water collecting in the bottom exterior of the port.  I noticed there seems to be groove/weephole in the bottom of the exterior frame but with the angle of the window it doesn't allow the port to drain fully.  Is there a way to modify the groove/weephole so the water drains out rather than collecting?
Also, can the screens be removed permanently or are they needed for the gasket to seal properly?

Has anyone installed small Norcold or equal fridge.  I'm going to get rid of the stove/oven and maybe put in a 1 burner portable cooktop.  In the vacant space below I was thinking of installing a fridge.  I don't think the refrigeration on the boat works. I need to get it tested.  The gentlemen I bought it from said someone looked at it a couple of years ago and it worked but needed freon.  If I can't get it working I plan on purchasing a new refrigeration unit.
My older C-30 just had an icebox.  I ended up installing a 12/120 v fridge.  During the week it would run on 120v shore power while at the slip.  It was nice to be able to leave drinks/food on board during the week rather than haul everything home each weekend.  During day sails, the fridge was usually large enough to hold whatever perishables we brought aboard.  During overnights, we usually had to pack the ice box with ice to hold the overflow of food/drinks.
Wondering if I would be better off installing the fridge and use it the same way as I did on my other boat or to just replace/repair the refrigeration unit and run it constantly?

Well, the projects started piling up this weekend:

Pulled out both water tanks and took them home to clean out. 
Ripped out all the plumbing and began installing all new plumbing. 
Removed galley sink.  Deciding on whether to clean up or replace.  Need to replace the faucet. 
After that came out, figured I might as well pull out the countertop to re-formica.  Found a bit of rot on it so that will now be replaced. 
Removed the water tank vent & stanchion and epoxied the holes.  I'm re-routing the vent to a thru hull right below the foward water tank fill.
Removed the holding tank vent & stanchion and epoxied the holes.  That one had a visible leak so I need to remove the shelf directly below it. Bottom of shelf is rotted (anyone know how this comes out) 
Vent will now go out a thru hull in almost the same location.
Also removed the formica shelf right above the elec. panel.  This was soaked from the vent stanchion leak.  New one will have to be fabricated and new formica added.
Removed the entire nav table.  If everything else is getting new formica, figured this would need to as well.
Ordered new elec. panel, old one needed to go.
When I removed the starboard cabin water tank, noticed the fiberglass holding one of the stringers in was cracked.  Cut that out and started re-glassing.
Removed oven/stovetop.  Trying to figure out if I can separate and just keep the stovetop part and discard the oven portion.

Projects I passed onto my father:
Sand/strip re-finish all the sole pieces (completed)
Sand/strip and refinish all interior cabinet doors and drawers (in process)
He'll also be sanding and re-finishing most of the interior teak

Future know projects:
Remove shelf in head.  Rotted from holding tank vent leak.
Lower half of bulkhead separating head from cabin is rotted and needs to come out and be replaced.
Install new gps in cockpit.
Install alternator bracket
Install wiring harness upgrade
Remove and re-finish exterior teak

I'm replacing all the plumbing on the boat.  There is a check valve from the galley sink drain to the thru hull.  My C-30 never had a check valve and I never had any water flow issues.  Is the check valve needed?

Happy Thanksgiving everyone.

I have a leaking holding tank vent stanchion on my "new" '86.  I've been reading some of the old holding tank threads.  There was mention in one thread to remove the vent stanchion, glass over the hole and install a thru hull below the toe rail and vent from there.  Peggy Hall had commented on one thread to install a clam shell cover over the thru hull with the opening pointed aft.  When the rail is buried, the clamshell would prevent water from getting into the tank.  Has anyone tried this method?  Didn't see any followup in the threads where someone has actually tried it.

Second item:  Has anyone installed a "bubbler" in the holding tank to aerate the tank constantly.  I've read Peggie's book about providing properly venting for the tank to eliminate odors.  The proper routed vent will aerate the tank itself but it seems the way our vents are routed, it won't provide proper ventilation.  I was thinking about drilling a 1/4" hole into the vent elbow off the top of the tank.  Dropping in a 1/4" tube into bottom of the tank and hooking the other end up to a fish tank type bubbler.  I figured the constant bubbling would provide the aeration the tank needs.  Was going to install a 120v bubbler.  I'm at a slip all week long on shore power so the bubbler would work all week and only be off on weekends.  Thoughts?

Has anyone installed mid ship cleats on a MK I?  If so where did you install them. Even if I butt them against the toe rail, they look like they could be a tripping hazard.

Thinking of replacing the white formica in the galley and head.  I'm re-using the existing countertops, just want to install new formica.  Does anyone have a picture of the formica they used.  Trying to get an idea of what color/pattern would look good.

A couple of questions.
Just bought an '86.  During the survey the surveyor noticed the alternator was only putting out 13.08 volts while the engine was running.  Said it should be putting out 14-14.4.  Said it may be the batteries are going.  They are 5 years old, boat has been on a mooring each season.
Had it delivered last week.  Captain mentioned the same issue and said it may be the batteries or may be the alternator.

Trying to get an idea of which way to go.  I'm going to replace the batteries but was figuring I'd wait until the spring and buy new ones then.  If it may be an alternator issue then I would pull it this winter and have it rebuilt.  My assumption is it's the original but I haven't had a chance to check the numbers on it.

The boat needs a charger.  Read the posts on the Trucharge 2.  Sounds like that's the way to go but got confused when it got too technical.  Do I need the remote panel.  I don't really understand what it provides other than the state of charge of the batteries.  The boat will be on shore power all week and mostly be used only on the weekends so the batteries are always 100% when we go out.  How do I determine which amp size I need?

Regulator.  What exactly is the regulator.  What does it do, do I need one?  Why would you need the 3 stage vs. 2 stage?

If I get a charger do I have to get a regulator?

Batteries:  Currently have 2 Group 27 deep cycle batteries.  Was thinking of added a dedicated wet cell engine battery and replace the 2-27's with either 2 31 deep cycle or 4-6v golf batteries.  If I got with the 6v.  Will I be okay with the battery charger since the engine battery & house batteries will all be deep cycle eventhough the 6v are 6v and not 12v?  I heard you are not supposed to mix battery types on the chargers but I didn't know if they included different voltages?

Thanks,
Matt

Checked the search but didn't find the answer I was looking for.

Just bought an '86.  Cushions are in good shape but I want to get them cleaned.  If I can get the foam out of them, has anyone had just the covers dry cleaned?  Or could I throw them in the washing machine on a "gentle" cycle?

Well, it's official.  Hull #81 is now mine.  Should be delivered to my marina on Thursday.  I'm glad to be here.  Seems like a great community with a ton of information.

Matt

The 34 I'm about to purchase  has this hull number.  CTYB0081L586.  Is it hull #81 or #586.  Thanks.

Had the survey on the 1986 I've been looking at.  A couple of issues which I didn't plan on.  Turns out the leak in the holding tank vent stanchion rotted out the internal shelf directly under it, the shelf below that (shelf right above the elec. panel), water traveled to the bulkhead in the head, rotted the lower half of the bulkhead totally, luckily the lower half on the cabin side is fiberglass which is solid.  From the bulkhead, the leak ran onto the L shaped shelf in the head so all that also has to be replaced.  On the good side, hull is solid, engine is in great shape (although needs a good exterior cleaning, deck is pretty solid, and rigging is good.
If things go well, hope to have the boat bought and either trucked or delivered to my marina by next weekend.

Now the only decision is when to tell my wife we have a new boat. 

Could anyone recommend a surveyor in or around the north shore of Mass.

Thanks