Messages

Thanks for the feedback.  I believe my bracket is aluminum (appears to be original). The replacement ones appear to be stainless.  The hole saw with a 1" hole saw blade as a guide is a great idea. If I decide to replace the pedestal guard, I'll try that.  It would make sense to go to 1-1/4" if I do it.  Thanks for the heads up on the transmission shifter travel as well.  Mine (I do have the stainless shifter handles) goes all the way to the guard pipe.  I'll definitely test it at the dock before taking it out, if I make the switch.  Funny how these seemingly simple projects have a way of getting complicated real fast!! Oh well.
Thanks again.
Mike.....

I am in the process of installing a new Raymarine chart plotter, with a new downvision transducer as well.  My problem is running the transducer cable to the helm.  The pedestal guard is the 1" version, and the cable end fitting (7/8" dia.) will not fit through the stainless pipe due to slight dimpleing where the top bracket is attached.  Raymarine recommends against cutting and splicing the transducer cable.  I've looked through most of the postings, but haven't come across anything helpful so far.  I hate to go to the expense and added work of changing to the 1-1/4" pedestal guard if there is an good alternative way to get the wiring to the helm. 

If the larger pedestal guard is the only good way to do it, I would appreciate hearing from anyone who has done this.  Would I need to change the guard bracket on the binnacle as well, or can it be drilled out to fit the large diameter pipes?  If I drill a 1" hole in the pipe to fit the cable fitting through, will it weaken the pipe too much?  I would appreciate any thoughts/idea's.  Thanks.
Mike...... 

Thanks for the input everyone. I realize the options are endless and everyone's needs are different.  I went to West Marine yesterday and talked to the sales guy about a couple of Garmin and Lowrance units.  I'm mainly looking for anyone who has had particularly good or bad experiences, just as another source of information.  Looking at functionality seems to be easier than comparing the chart and chart update process and cost.  Lots of options.  I'll take a look at the links forwarded by Stu as well.  Thanks again for the info, and the ongoing support from this forum.  It's always helpful.
Mike.....

I would like to purchase a new chartplotter for my boat.  I have a very old Garmin that I was never able to get local charts for.  (old style memory card)  I would like to keep the price under $1,000, and would like a 7" screen.  There are many new plotters from Lowrance, Garmin and others that look good, but I have little experience with them.  Many of the new plotters are combination Chartplotters/Fishfinders.  I don't fish, so that is not important to me, however, many just seem to be combination units. Mapping options also vary, and keeping maps updated is always an issue.  At this point, I only sail on Lake Ontario. 
I would be very interested in hearing from any of you who may have upgraded recently, and what your experience has been.  Models keep changing and recent comparisons seem to be few and far between.  Thanks.
Mike.....

Hi all,
Thanks for all of the suggestions.  I finally got it working.  I stripped and soldered the wire ends for better contact in the terminal strip.  Checked all voltages and all were within the prescribed range.  The Yellow wire was somewhat erratic, but in the range.  Still not working.  I increased the screen brightness setting as suggested for potential moisture problem and somehow it reset something that allowed the wind speed to display properly.  It has been working fine for a few days now. Not entirely sure of the fix, but it is working and the voltages seem correct.  Thanks again for all of the help.  I really appreciate the help!
Mike......

Hi Dave,
Thanks for the link.  That looks like a great place to start. I did check the voltages on each of the wires, but had no idea what each wire related to, or what the voltages should read. I got voltages from each wire, but can't recall what they were.  Hopefully I can get out to the boat over the next couple of days to test it.  Thanks again.
Mike......

Hi Stu,
The instrument appears to be made by Raymarine.  The Display unit is an ST60+ Wind instrument (not the ST60+ Wind & Close Hauled instrument).  The wind vane also appears to be a Raymarine Wind instument, not the Rotavecta.  I have attached a few pages from the manual that illustrate what I have.  It is wired as a stand alone unit, and does not use Sea Talk. The cable has 4 color coded wires + stranded shielding which are connected at the junction near the mast base. I hope this helps to identify what I have.  Thanks.
Mike.....

Hi everyone,
I just re-connected my wind instrument wiring at the mast base, and unfortunately, the the read out at the helm is only registering the wind direction, not the speed.  It worked fine last season, before hauling and taking the mast down. No visible damage to the wind vane when re-installed to top of mast.  I was able to read DC voltage at each wire connection at the mast base.  Has anyone run into this problem? Not sure how to troubleshoot.  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  Thanks.
Mike....

Chuck,
You are right! I have the slider fixtures. After a few connection adjustments, all are working in the 3 different positions. One bulb/two bulbs/off. The Admiral is much happier now. I think I'll look into the replacement LED bulbs for now, except for the galley and head fluorescent fixtures. Thanks again.
Mike...

Chuck,
Thanks for the explanation of how the fixture works.  I'll try it tomorrow when I get to the boat.  Never thought to slide the whole fixture. Thanks.

Mike.....

Thanks for all of the great feedback and pictures.  Nice woodwork Noah.  I will check my salon fixtures again later today for on/off switches, but I haven't found them yet.  They are approx. 3"x8" with plastic cover.  As I recall, the plastic cover encloses everything.  They have 2 of the festoon type bulbs in each fixture. 
Mike....

Hi all,
I would like to replace the interior lighting on my boat.  Both fluorescent fixtures (in head and over ice box), main cabin fixtures, reading lights in forward and aft cabins, and possibly the navigation table lamp.  I would like to be able to operate each light individually (on/off), and possibly dimmers.  Currently, if I have the "cabin lights" circuit turned on, there is no way to turn off the main cabin lights individually.  If I want to use the reading lights in the V-Birth, all of the main cabin lights have to be left on.  I've read many of the previous posts, but most are from years past, and the technology is constantly changing and improving.  It sounds like simply replacing bulbs with LED bulbs can sometimes work, but may be a real compromise.

Has anyone taken on this type of project recently, to take advantage of the newer LED technologies?  If so, I would really appreciate learning from your experience. 

Some specific areas of interest include:
-  Specific fixtures/Sizes
-  Switching/Dimming
-  Light Output to match existing or improve
-  Color Temps (I like the warm look of the incandescents)
-  Wiring issues

Thanks.
Mike....

Hi Everyone,
I am considering having a new Dodger made for my 1987 C-34, and I would like to have a Bimini with connector piece made at the same time.  Does anyone have a recommendation for a good source in the Rochester, NY area.  I want to keep the price reasonable, but want good quality and service as well.  Someone told me of a place near Syracuse that comes to the boat with all of the equipment and builds it on site, generally in a day, but doesn't know the name of the service.  Local services seem hard to find. Are there places with stock choices for our boats that owners can install themselves?  Any information would be appreciated.  Thanks.
Mike.....

Well, I guess I found the general area of the problem. Moving the wiring above the nav table inside the small sliding doors, on the way to the 1st light fixture on the port Side, just forward of the nav table, caused all of the lights to go back on. I'll start checking the wires and the connections in that area to see if I can find the problem.
Mike...

Hi all,
I just got to the boat and all of the cabin lights are out. The fluorescent light in the head is working, but none of the lights in the v-berth, the main cabin, or the aft cabin are working. I appear to have the original electrical panel with fuses. The 15 amp fuse is fine, the cabin light switch on the panel has power when switched on, and there is power across the fuse connections. Any idea where the likely wiring problem may be before I start tearing everything apart? Seems odd they would all go out at once. Thanks.
Mike....