Messages

Hi Dan,
Well I'd *like* to help. I just don't understand why the wheel wouldn't turn properly after replacing the drive belt, especially if everything was working before and it was the correct replacement belt. Buying a new wheel seems a little drastic, even more so if it's not an ST4000+ wheel/drive (which you can still get - see  https://www.hodgesmarine.com/RAYMARINE-ST-4000-WHEEL-DRIVE-E12093-p/raye12093.htm.) I seriously doubt the drive for a EV100 is compatible with the ST4000+ "head."

It seems coincidental to a belt change, but is there a possibility your ST4000+ head has gone belly up? I had a SeaTalk failure in mine back in 2013, and at the time Raymarine had a flat rate repair policy. My 4000+ has been a rock ever since. (He says knocking on wood.)

I'd agree with Dave. The Raymarine forum is probably the best place to start. You might have to wait a day or so for the answer/suggestion, but they've helped me out a lot.

Hi Andre,
Here's some detail of my second reef. The 2nd reef blocks are hung from "dogbones", both on the starboard side of the sail. The first reef blocks are also hung from dogbones, but on the port side of the sail. Since both the first and second reefing lines go through blocks (on deck, on the sail, and in the boom) friction is minimized. The sail comes down pretty easy. I'm using single line "slab" reefing, so each reef requires one line. For the first reef I used 60 ft (18.3M) of 5/16" (8 mm) of Sampson LST. For the second reef I used 90 ft (27.5M) of the same line.

Again, if you're just making the sail you might want to get the sailmaker to add loops in your sail at the reef cringles so you don't have to use dog bones. You can just hang the blocks on the loops, if you decide to go this way.

Andre
I think a hook for the first reef and lines led to the cockpit for the second and third is a very bad idea. I'm not sure of the weather conditions where you sail (perhaps you could add that to your signature?), but chances are you'll use the first reef 20 times for each time you use the second. (The third? My sail is coming down.) The goal is to make it easier and safer so you'll be more inclined to do it when the "maybe I should take a reef" thought comes into your head. The whole idea of slab or 2-line reefing is that you won't have to leave the cockpit because your reefing line(s) and main halyard winches are all in the same place.

I will try to take some pictures for you this weekend.

Hi Andre,
When you say it is always "blocked" does that mean the sail won't come down, or does it mean that you can't pull your reefing line in any more?

Your slab reefing system is probably like mine was, where the line comes up from the cabin top on the port side of the boom, goes through the forward reef cringle (first reef)  and down to the starboard side of the boom, through the boom to the end, up the starboard side of the boom to the aft reef cringle, and then down the port side of the sail and tied off on the boom. Is that correct? There is a lot of friction in that system, and it can be made a lot smoother by putting small blocks (I used Harken 2149 Carbo T2 40mm) at the reef cringles and having the reefing line go up and down the same side of the sail.

If you're just having your sail made you may consider having small loops put in at the reef cringles. Your first reef would have the loops on the port side of the sail, the second reef would have the loops on the starboard side.

I can show you some pictures, but please let me know if this translates OK.

Not hard to imagine. I measured mine at 13 gallons to the very tippy top.

Thanks guys. I've gone ahead and ordered one (Fisheries Supply in Seattle has them marked down substantially until tomorrow.) I know they're great anchors.

I'm considering getting a 35# Mantus as a back-up anchor for my Rocna 15, since the Mantus can be disassembled to be stowed. However, the spade on the Mantus seem to be more angled back than the Rocna, making me wonder if it will sit properly in the anchor roller without jabbing into the gellcoat on the bow. This is the standard roller on a Mk II.

Thanks.

Hey Rob,
Welcome to SD! See you on the water.

Here's a plug for the SD Catalina Association. We meet the second Thursday of the month (except July and December) at Silver Gate YC on Shelter Island. http://www.sdcatalinaassoc.com/

If you'd like more info just send a PM.

Hi Ross,
From an old thread ...

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8689.msg61762.html#msg61762

Hi Dale,
No, I don't think that occluded hose was the problem. I replaced all the hoses in the cooling system (fresh and raw) from the intake through-hull to the exhaust riser nipple and that was a "yikes why didn't I do this sooner?" moment. The steam issue began later when I swapped my Sherwood G-908 for an Oberdorfer N202-908.

Elliot
The VW500 with a combination chain gypsy/rope windlass (which I assume you have) only supports 1/4" short link chain. The ACCO G43 1/4" works great. I switched to all-chain rode (300 ft!) and the weight penalty wasn't too terrible over the 220' rope/80' chain combination I had.

Scott,
Whenever my speed stops working it's always because the transducer is fouled. You mentioned that you pulled it and didn't find any obstruction, but did you actually spin the paddlewheel to verify it was working? I know this requires two people, but that would certainly tell you if it was a network issue or not. I've had my paddlewheel look clean and still not spin freely. I wound up just replacing the pin and the wheel after the umpteenth cleaning.

I know this seems simple-minded, but sometimes simple is best. If all the networking has been OK for several years it's hard to imagine why it would suddenly flake on you.

You may want to hold off a bit. This was just announced:

https://www.panbo.com/balmar-sg200-a-good-battery-monitor-gets-better/

The benefits of a Smartgauge and a coulomb counter. It looks pretty promising.

Stu - Could you post a link to the CF thread you're referring to? My search criteria just aren't bringing it up. It would be interesting reading.

I'm sure there are instances where the judicious use of an anchor trip line with a float is warranted, such as a known rocky bottom or an area where you had fouled before.

Hi Jon. I'd like to say I did exhaustive comparisons, but it got down to me wanting to shoot as much water as possible at the muddy mess without blowing inline fuses or tripping breakers. I measured the 5 gpm draw at 10-11 amps (published max is 16A), which should work with my existing wiring and circuit breakers when I do the "permanent" installation. I think the 6 gpm would have been pushing it (published max 18A), not to mention it was more expensive. Come on by and I can show it to you if you'd like.

I do have a friend who has done a permanent install of a 6 gpm Jabsco "Hot Shot" on a Mk II, but I don't think he's used it in the field yet. He's on the list, so maybe once he does test it he can share  the results. BTW the 6 gpm pump is listed at 70 psi as well.