Messages

Rob, How is the shake when you run up in idle vs. in gear? Things change when you put the boat in the water so plan to get close on the hard.

Derek--I currently have Dan's bearing removal tool.  I sent you a PM requesting your email and I'll start an email thread to coordinate getting it to you.

Kyle

Are you sure it's from the engine and not the prop or something else?  I sometimes get a sqeel which I traced to the prop.  See https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f114/singing-prop-what-to-do-15445.html.

I don't remember doing anything special to get chart detail. I'm on Lake Michigan if they makes a difference.

Kyle

Sorry for the dumb questions...

So the boat is in the water, I can't see or measure the distance from the prop to the strut (I do have the pics posted but no measurements).

I understand I can remove the drive saver and add the Federal flex coupler and then I will be 'too long' w/ the new transmission.  So I could cut off the end (engine side) before adding the couplers etc.  If I go this route, I don't need to move the shaft back at all, just cutting the end, right?  But this doesn't 'help' the fact that maybe I have too much distance between prop and strut.

So should I go-pro, dive and measure, then pull shaft forward to the engine, then measure (no drive save + fed coupler - new trans) and cut?
Sounds like moving through the dripless isn't a concern, no issues moving through the cutlas? (2 years old)

Ron you have made these cuts in the water, Noah and KWKloeber (Ken?) you joke/pushed back on this idea.  What are the concerns/things to consider.

Just trying to learn...

Kable and all,

My experience is that the coupler end of the shaft has a keyway and dimples for the coupler set screws. If so, how can the shaft be shortened without extending the keyway and redrilling the dimples? Does the pictured coupler connect to the shaft in a different way?

Regarding zinc placement, make sure the diver doesn't place it so close to the strut that the shaft doesn't slide back far enough to work on.

I was paranoid about losing the shaft out the rear while working on it so I placed my zinc to act as a stopper so the shaft doesn't slide so far back that I can't get it back.

Kyle

The red part on the coupler looks like a "Globe Drivesaver". If so you could remove it to get space back. It's not a true "flexible coupling" but more of a shock absorber if your prop hits something.  I have one. 

Raising the engine should be easy as long as the mounts have enough thread.  It looks like you're engine is pretty low so raising it 1/4 or more should not be an issue.

The only way I know of shortening the shaft is to remove it and send to a shop  The risk of too long a shaft is prop shaft whipping (which could damage the shaft) if your prop is out of balance .  How much vibration do you have today? 

How long is too long?  Hard to say. You'll find many boats in the yard with"too long a shaft" which have no problems. 

This is an excellent article regarding engine alignment: https://www.yachtsurvey.com/Alignment2.htm

Here are pics.  This would have been a good blog entry but I didn't turn out to be the proficient blogger I thought I would...

Tranny is still working well ten years later.  I change fluid every fall and periodically check for discoloration and it's always pink with no noticeable discoloration.

Swivel mount came with the chartplotter and is attached to a piece of Starboard on an old instrument base.  The mount itself is similar to this:  https://www.garmin.com/en-US/p/599499.  Google "chartplotter with swivel base" for other ideas.

Regarding wiring, I was able to fit everything through the pedestal but I think the Seatalk NG cable is a bit smaller than a regular NMEA 2000 end.  I'm not sure how much more will fit.

Kyle

I mounted the transducer on a flat section of the hull just aft of the engine. You'd need an extension cable to mount it much farther forward.

I installed a Garmin EchoMap 73sv a few years ago and have been happy with it.  It integrates via NMEA 2000 with my Raymarine i70s depth/speed/wind and EV100 Wheel pilot.  Bass Pro Shops and Cabela's have them on sale (https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/garmin-echomap-uhd-73sv-fish-finderchartplotter-combo). 

I couldn't make the included side scan transducer work so I sold it on eBay (I got over $200 if I remember correctly) and installed a GT8HW-IH In-Hull High/Wide CHIRP Transducer. 

Only downside is I'd need a Raymarine chartplotter if I ever need to flash firmware on the instruments.

I replaced mine (1990 #1010) a few seasons ago with a Cole Hersee Ignition Switch CH 95612 (no key) and have been happy with it.  I don't remember anything difficult about replacing it. 

See this thread (https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5799.msg81689.html#msg81689) for how others have addressed the situation and a picture of my switch.

Last season the bottom separated on my Bombard (by Zodiac) Aero 305.  I used "RH Adhesives HH-66 Vinyl Cement" from Amazon.  It held well last season but haven't looked at it yet this season.

I'll add another endorsement for Gore packing, but I understand your desire to go back to to something you know works.  I put some in a long time ago (10+ years?) and only replaced it this spring.  I replaced it because of symptoms similar to yours: more drip than before and too much heat when I tightened it enough to stop the drip.

Any chance the yard used the wrong size or somehow incorrectly installed it?  Hopefully they'll fix it given the value of your new t-shirt!

As others suggested, get an estimate to just replace the isinglass and re-stitch bad spots.  I did this years ago and it was a small percentage of the cost of new. 

Jack, would you mind posting a picture of the crack?