Messages

Thanks Tony,

Yes, if and when I take the mast down I do remove the equipment, and yes it is definitly to protect it from damage since all the masts typically sit together on mast racks. But I'm particularly interested in knowing what people do when they leave the mast up.

Cheers, Fred.

We're storing Dolphina with her mast up this winter and I've got a couple of questions I would like some input on.

I've noticed that most people leave the wind direction and speed sensors on the masthead when the mast is up. Are these remote sensors able to stand the ice and freezing? Should they come down? On our previous boats we did not have electronic sensors. I image that most leave them up just because its a pain to to topside to do so, but if the units fail, that even more of a pain.

We've also comissioned a winter cover from Topline Canvass, here in Midland, and for this it will allow us to leave the boom connected. I'm curious about the vang. To keep the boom level, I need to pull on the vang a fair bit. These would leave the internal spring loaded for the entire winter, which I figure could cause it to fatique some. What do most people do? Leave the vang compressed, or disconnect it and support the boom with a crotch or post?

Much thanks, Fred.

Cory: Yes, we are at Bayport, and Dolphina should be coming out tomorrow.  I will be up this weekend (mostly Saturday) to set up some sort of framing so that Topline can take measurements for a winter cover. Feel free to drop by anytime.

I spoke with Ronco and the missing dimension is 5-1/8" (see image). The red squares represent confirmed right angles. Also I was told the shipping would cost $113.53 US and $282.09 US for the tank.

All: Thanks all for the modelling advice... as an ex-architect I use to work with all these materials. Cory and I will talk this over since I suspect he'll want to check his locker out as well.

Cory: I was up at the boat this weekend (getting it ready for haul out) and re-measured the storage locker. There are some very tight dimensions and I'm a bit concerned about the top clearance. I agree with your suggestion about making a model or mock tank. I was thinking that corrigated cardboard might be the light easy way to go about it. However I noticed that a dimension was missing... so I've emailed Ronco to see if that can fill in the missing data. I'll be up again this weekend, if you want to drop by and talk about it.

Peggie: The science is clear and makes sense. The only reason I removed te vented loop was on suggestion from the marina that sold me the replacement pump. I never completely removed the hoses, so they'll get swapped back into place. Yes, Catalina did have it right.

John: Yes, that is what I was thinking about; Loop the head output up and through the hanging lock (not under it) and down into the tank.

Hi Peggie,

Thanks for the suggestions. I understand the idea of locating both vent and inlet more inboard, but I'm not sure that will work with the inlet, because of how it enters the compartment. It would need to make a fairly tight (almost 90 degree) turn (see existing inlet in image above). Hopefully a high enough loop will compensate for that, as per your second suggestion.

I'm not sure that I understand the need for a vented loop in the head intake. The water intake originally went directly from the thru-hull inlet to the head's pump, then from the pump via a vented loop to the bowl (which actually didn't make any sense to me). When our head had flushing issues this spring our marina tried to sell us a new head, but I went for only replacing the pump assembly (including joker valve) since the bowl was just fine and well seated and the new pump had a locking feature. At that point the head had a hose that went directly from the pump to the bowl, so I just disconnected the vented loop and left it hanging in place for now. We usually close the seacock when sailing.

I'd be glad to take you up on your offer once I'm confident that the tank will fit. I'll be going up Sunday to do some final in water prep before having the boat hauled out for the winter, so I'll recheck my measurements. We unfortunately have cut our season short because our youngest broke a leg and for now needs constant supervision.

Cory: Yes, I remember seeing Mystic around Beausoleil Island. I think you gave Kathy some sailing magazines that you had already read (we're still not finished reading them... life's so busy). You mention you do not have a thru-hull in the port locker. Is Mystic not a MK II or did you have it already removed? I'd be interested in how your measuring compares to mine. I felt it still seemed a bit tight on the outboard (port most) side.

Peggy: Yes, the macerator is pointless for us. We store it in our dock-box and are only holding on to it incase we ever sell the boat in the future, which was also why I would prefer to not to remove the thru-hull... but if I have to, then I will.

With respect to the vent line, that is one part of what we need to take care of. That stantion is leaking at the deck and the water makes its way behind the electrical panel. My plan is to remove the stantion, cut off the thru-hull vent fitting off, epoxy the holes and reseat the stantion. I then plan to vent forward out the hull behind the port v-berth locker just below the deck. We'll see if I can fit in your recommended 1" or larger line.

A second part of this upgrade would be to reroute the inlet from the head to the tank. Currently it goes from the head aftwards under the sink, then loops up and forwards behind the head, past the hanging locker and nav station and down into the tank. I measured that this is approximately nine feet long. I want to redirect the flow from the head directly foward and up and then down to the tank (about five feet only), thus removing the aft loop. I actually don't understand why the plumbing was routed the way it was, unless there is a need to have the head exit horizontally before it goes up?

Sorry if this appears as a double post. I got an error posting suggesting that I had already, but I did not see the post on the forum.
____________________________________________

Our first season is unfortunately windling down and while it was a wonderful experience we have as expected developed a list of enhancements/fixes that we want to address. We sail on Georgian Bay (Great Lakes Area) and will often go for extended periods away from any marina and we find the 18 gallon holding tank a bit small for four people (two adults and two kids). If we invite guests, it feels even smaller. So increasing the tank size is one of our top enhancements we want to address.

I've requested info from Catalina about getting a larger holding tank and they recommended the 30 gallon tank from Ronco (number 60170 or Ronco-B179 http://www.ronco-plastics.com/newRonco/product_details.php?prodID=72) versus the Ronco-B212 (http://www.ronco-plastics.com/newRonco/product_details.php?prodID=104) that we currently have. Apparently the C34 MK I's are suppose to be outfitted with the larger tank (or so I was told). I've done some preliminary measuring and noted that my thru-hull for the macerator would be in the way, plus the deeper dimension on the port most side of the tank seems to a bit tight. I am wondering if anyone else has done this upgrade to their MK II and how did it go? How did you deal with the thru-hull and did it sit properly within the available space?

I found a thread started by Hank Toby in 2003 and an even older one from 2002 with no apparent resolution. In 2007 I see Chris Martinson asks a similiar question, but for a MK I. I don't expect to many coastal sailors doing this upgrade, but anyone in freshwater might have.

The attached image shows the existing B212 tank and the thru-hull location. The new B179 would be almost as big as the storage locker's opening, thus cover the thru-hull.

Will the chain be going through a windlass? If so, that might determine if you can even use the "swivel" like link.

Just a thought.

Here are the photos of our pump...

We have a 2002 C34 MkII, and the shower sump pump is located under the galley sinks beside the water pressure pump. I have a photo that reminds me that it is an Par-Max3 shower drain pump model 30610-0092. The pump also doubles as the ice-box water pump. At first glance the connections look easy enough to disconnect and reconnect, so I imagine that it shouldn't be to difficult to swap out. Hope this helps.

Cheers, Fred.