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We added a memory foam topper from Target.  To cut it, placed it on top of the original innerspring mattress, marked it, snapped a chalk line so I would cut straight, and used a large pair of tin snips.  (Would have used an electric carving knife if we had had one.)

Michael

FSR, blue gel.  Works great.  Do not use On & Off - nasty stuff.

Another vote for FSR.  Works chemically, no scrubbing. 

That way you can do your own research and stop depending on someone elses opinion.  
That's the only way you can be satisfied that you are making the correct decision !!

Good advice, which I unfortunately recently had occasion to heed.  The Sherwood G908 pump on our M35B engine failed at about 160 total engine hours.  Like many have noted above, I've been frustrated with the Sherwood:

• Pump body rusts
• Water seal prone to early failure, especially when used infrequently
• Pain to change the impeller
• Replacement and maintenance is more expensive than the Oberdorfer

Enough issues that I was willing to consider the Oberdorfer as a replacement.

Randy Sherwood and Niel Schneider did a nice write up on modifying the N202M-16 Oberdorfer so that it fits the M35B, so the main question was whether it pumps enough water to adequately cool the engine.  Part of the confusion is that the current model ("N"202M) pumps more than the previous model. The "-15" and "-16" part of the part number means 3/8" and 1/2" fittings, respectively.

According to page 44 of the Universal Operators Manual for the M35B engine, it requires 8 GPM at 3,000 RPM.

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The N202M-16 puts out somewhere between 9-10.5 GPM at 3,000 RPM, depending on how it's installed.

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Subjectively, it seems to spit out a comparable volume.  A sea trial was successful, with the temperature rising and stabilizing normally.  I'll continue to monitor it this season, but I'm considering it an improvement.

When we bought our boat, it had a 22# Delta.  Upgraded last year to a 35# Manson Supreme and couldn't be happier with the decision.

Michael

Interesting feedback.  I'm leaning towards doing the conversion to a single ended mainsheet.  My specific question is about where to tie off the fixed end. 

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In the picture above, there are at least three options:

A:  tie off at the traveler car
B:  tie off at the base of the standing block used to turn the mainsheet at the mast back to the cabin
C:  tie off at the traveler track base

A simplifies things but presumably removes some of the mechanical advantage.  Any preferences?


Michael

Roc,

An old post, but I'm thinking of doing the same and converting my double ended mainsheet to a single.  Did you follow through on the conversion?  And if so, where did you end up tying the fixed end, at the traveller or at the turning block by the mast?

Michael

Dan:  very nice splicing work.

We have a single line furler on Serenity and learned the hard way the need to keep the system tight when we leave the boat.  We keep at least 3-4 wraps of the sheets around the headsail.  Then I bring the sheets forward and tie them off on the pulpit, then store the rest in the anchor locker.  The furling line gets snugged down with a clutch in the cockpit. 

This has worked well, except for the one time year before last when I was cleaning the fairleads and left a few feet of slack in the furling line.  A Santa Anna wind kicked up overnight and the headsail partially unfurled.  Fortunately, a live-aboard heard the racket and secured the sail before it completely flagged itself to death.  Still, it was pricy to get it repaired.   

Lesson learned.

Michael

mer : If you go for the cleat that slides on the 1" genoa rail look at the Schafer cleats as they are 8" and stainless!!

+1 for the Schafer cleats on the toerail track.  Very nice for springlines and I like the ability to adjust them.

Michael

I started with a screenshot from the manual, then used PowerPoint to annotate it.  Staples sells easy lamination packs.

This iPad browser is not letting me attach, but if you would like the files, send me a pm and I'll email them to you.

Michael

Is it leaking between the rubber seal and the plexiglass or is it leaking behind the frame?  Spray water on the deck with a hose to see.  Cleaning the seals can help if it's the former.  Agree with Dave that you probably don't need new seals unless something unusual happened.

We purchased our 2005 model in 2010 and also had leaks with multiple portlights.  In our case, when the ports were installed by the factory, they used a very narrow strip of (I'm guessing poor quality) buytl tape.  The buytl had hardened and cracked and was not sealing.  As a result, when it rained or we washed down the deck, water would leak around the frame and into the cabin.  At first we assumed it was leaking past the seals, and messed with those for a few weeks without really stopping the leaks.

We finally removed each portlight (not as scary as it sounds), cleaned off the old buytl, and re-sealed.  It takes about 45 minutes per portlight once you've done one.  We also did the hatches at the same time, as they were also leaking.  

You will find different recommendations on the forum as to what to use to seal the portlights.  Do some searches.  Some prefer high-quality buytl (search for posts by Mainesail), others a polyether or polyurethane sealant.  Stay away from 3M 5200 or silicone for this purpose.

Regards,

Michael

This is what bilge pumps and sponges are for.  I leave mine out most of the time to prevent growth from clogging it, and put it in when I'm doing more than just a daysail.  You get good at swapping it quickly.

Michael

Quick question-do most of you here sleep in the v-berth?

After trying the aft cabin and other berths, we settled on the v-berth.  It's proven the more comfortable and roomy, although a little more difficult for my wife to get out.  Hence the step.  The first couple of times she tried to hop out it reminded me of an aircraft hitting the deck of an aircraft carrier--controlled chaos. The step makes it much less entertaining.

We've taken the mattress out of the aft cabin and it functions as the attic most of the time.

Michael

My wife is fairly short, so we also have a folding stool to make it easier for her to get in and out of the v-berth.  Our is a cheap one from West Marine.  It lives in the drawer under the v-berth.



http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=46745&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50751&subdeptNum=50759&classNum=50760

Michael

I thought I saw, on this site, someone that bought cheap loops to attach the blocks to the stern cleats.  2 for about $15.  I searched, but didn't come up with anything......

REI is a good source for inexpensive loops in a variety of sizes.

Our setup is similar to PKs in that we use the rail tracks with a set of low-lead cars that we move as far aft as possible when we deploy the gennaker.  The downside of this is we have to move the headsail sheets to use the foot block to get the gennaker sheet to the primary winch.  I'd probably prefer to have a block mounted back by the aft cleats, but the current setup works well enough that it's low on the priority list.

I also did mine for the first time, in the water, just a few weeks ago.  It took about 45 minutes, but much of that was spent double-checking and cleaning everything up.  Between posts on this site and Mainesail's web site, it was pretty easy.  I used rigging tape to seal the shaft while I worked and ended up with less than a liter of water in the bilge.  The Duramx Ultra-X, with shipping, was under $20 for enough packing for at least 4 replacements.  

I don't know that $142 was an unfair price for the work, but I wouldn't want to pay it for such a straight-forward job.  And as others have pointed out, any C34 owner should know how to to adjust the packing gland.

Interestingly, when I started to pull out the old packing, I found five rings of very narrow packing.  When the PO had it done last, they must have installed whatever they had handy.  I installed two rings of 1/4" per the spec and it came to within 4-5 threads from the end of the packing nut.   Another reason to do it yourself--otherwise you have no idea of what was done.  Or at least watch the work in progress and bond with your new best friend.