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The M35B parts manual shows both a zinc anode and petcock in the same My theory is that there is one or the other, but not both.  Does anyone know if there is either a petcock or a zinc anode?

There are both. The petcock is used to drain the coolant while the zinc is used to drain the raw water (and prevent corrosion). 

Regards.

In addition to those apps already mentioned, I use box.com cloud storage to share files between the tablet and other computers, including choosing which files (like manuals) to save to the device.  I also find BoatingCalcs useful.

Michael

Coincidentally, and completely unscientifically, I was trying to loosen the backstay turnbuckles this last weekend so I could get some slack to swap out the top headsail furler unit (a long story).  Several applications of PB Blaster and some elbow grease was effective on the port turnbuckle, but I couldn't get the starboard turnbuckle to budge.  A dock neighbor brought over a can of Kano Kroil.  I let a couple of applications soak in for about 5 minutes. The turnbuckle freed up with little effort.

Not a controlled test, but convincing enough for me to order a can of Kano Kroil.

Michael

Mick:   thanks for the post, an interesting development.  I got excited about it until I read Ken's post about the mounting and the cost. I made the switch to the Oberdorfer year before last and would like to have a spare pump on board (the Sherwood was beyond rebuild).  But if the cost difference is anything like the quoted $140, I'll spend the hour to cut down and drill the N202m-16 pump again.  What did you end up paying for the N202M-908?

Thanks,

Michael

Stu and Mike,

There are 2 sizes of arm length from Garhauer. Which do you have ?

Andrew

Andrew:  I have the longer size, at 34".  The mkII boats have the swim step, so a longer arm comes in handy.

Hwd:  I found a few other references useful.  The first was the 2009 Tech Note write-up that Ron did that shows how to modify the Garhauer lift so that it's easier to use by one person.  Following his example, I moved the cam cleat from the top of the lift to the middle of the upper lift tube, and put a homemade fairlead on the top where the cleat was so the line would run cleanly to the cleat.  I also replaced the nut on the lift brace yoke with a wingnut to make it easier to unfold/fold for storage in the locker.  (The picture in my post above was pre-modification.)

The second reference was Mainesail's excellent write-up on countersinking holes and bedding hardware:  http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware

Regards,

Michael

I am planning to mount a Garhauer outboard motor lifting davit on the stern of my 2004 C34 mkII.  Before I start drilling holes, however, I was wondering if anyone has experience with a similar project on their own boat.  It would be useful for me to know if the transom is solid or cored, what size and type of fasteners I could use, and whether or not a backing plate is necessary.  

Hwd,

I mounted one on our 2005 mkII (see picture below).  The location is a little non-standard, in that the vertical shaft is angled a bit aft rather than being straight up and down, which is what most people do.  I did this because it better located the head of the lift over the outboard plate on the rail and the stern of my dingy.  This probably puts a little more stress on the rail, but the rail doesn't seem to budge when I swing the outboard.  I have a light outboard at 6HP.  YMMV, experiment with the lift in various locations before you decide what works best for you.

For the mounting ball at the bottom, I used the Garhauer LBM-1, which comes with a stainless backing plate and is drilled for 4 bolts (not included, but you can use the holes to size the bolts).  I used a starboard section under the mount that I angled and ground down to make the ball mount more level and better match the curve of the hull.  That part of the hull is solid and was easy to drill. Don't forget the sealant.  Of course, laying in the lazarette to get a wrench on the bolts is a lot of fun (do you have a teenager?).  

I really like the Garhauer lift--although it's not the most stylish one out there, it works great.  One other bit of advice:  the pole is in two pieces.  When removing the lift, make sure you keep one hand on the lower section.  As you slide the lift up to pull it from the collar, it's easy for the lower section to come loose and fall.

Good luck.

Michael

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Both pumps have similar GPH ratings. If your engine is over heating, I would eliminate other possible causes first.  Are you getting a "normal" volume of discharge from the exhaust?  If not, could be clogged inlet, heat exchanger, or the impeller. All cheaper and faster to fix than a new pump.

More details on the symptoms and what you've eliminated would help.

Michael

How bizarre!  No, haven't had any insects in the fuel filter.

I did share your feeling that it was a pain to check/service the filter in the original location, so I relocated it to under the head. Much easier to get to there.

My experience as been the same as what Roc describes. It doesn't take long to pull the sock down with the sheet loose.  Then drop the halyard and unclip the tack last.

Michael

That looks very nice.  I assume you glued the rope ends in place?

I've also seen a treatment where they used a series of half-hitches on the post, which made an interesting spiral patern up the post.

Michael

Very nice job.  It does look like Catalina did it.  We have a MKII boat and have been looking for a way to make better use of that space.  Like you, we keep the mattress wedge in place all the time.  I also like Stu's idea of keeping tools in that drawer.  I still haven't found a good place for the tools and parts, since they're heavy and I'm using them every day.

Michael

Scott,

What era boat are you looking for?  Also, I assume you are familiar with Yachtworld.  It's a pretty comprehensive listing of boats for sail.  If you want to see the C34s for sale in California, here's the listing:

http://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/cache/searchResults.jsp?Ntk=boatsEN&searchtype=homepage&sm=3&luom=126&currencyid=100&cit=true&toLength=34&fromLength=34&fromPrice=0&man=Catalina&slim=quick&N=900&is=false&pricderange=Select+Price+Range

Don't know if you are looking for a newer boat, but I see that Catalina has a 2006 listed as being at their marine/office in Channel Islands Harbor.  They often get used boats in as trade ins.  We purchased our C34 from Catalina in 2010 as a used boat and they took extremely good care of us.

If you plan to be near Channel Islands Harbor in the near term and would like a walkthrough/lessons learned, would be happy to meet with you.  You can PM me if you are interested.

Regards,

Michael

PS - One other thing - Jabsco pumps do not have a great reputation.  I'd buy a Shurflo.
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5990.0.html

Mainesail sees more of these than do I, but here is my experience:  I had two Jabscon VS pumps fail in the first year we had the boat. The Shurflow has made it twice that  so far. 

Michael

AM,

You are asking good questions, and as you are finding out, there are no one size fits all answers.  One reason is that you are trying to satisfy conflicting goals and constraints.  The perfect rode has a huge WWL, absorbs shocks with reasonable damping, is impervious to abrasion and corrosion, simple to use, easy to store, compatible with your windlass, light weight, and cheap.  (If you find something that has all of these, let us know  .)  Did I mention cheap?

A chain/nylon combination rode is a good choice for many as they optimize for these goals/constraints for their situation and expected conditions.  As the desire for a higher WWL becomes more important, as in the use case you describe above, some people transition to an all-chain rode, with snubbers or other approaches to adding shock absorption.  This is a trade off against some of the other goals, as it can add complexity of use (or maybe not, depending on your windlass and bow roller setup), weight, and cost.

The question of 3 strand nylon vs. double braid is another example of optimization.  3 strand tends to be less expensive and has more stretch.  Double braid can be easier to handle and store.  What's more important to you?

Spectra isn't used in anchoring because, as other have pointed out, it doesn't absorb shock as it is designed not to stretch.   You either need to find a way to compensate for this or find a material that is a better fit for your goals and constraints.

Regards,

Michael

Does anyone have any more recent experiences or advice on these?
any alternative suggestions for  hauling a kayak?   

We tried a set last year. Like all Garhauer gear, they are solid and well made.  We mounted them forward of the beamiest part of the boat.

Ultimately, we decided not to use them. Part of the reason was that our kayak is a sit-on-top tandem, which made for a lot of plastic hanging off the side of the boat. It would occasionally drag in the water and didn't leave much clearance coming back into the (tight) slip passing by the concrete piling on that side. It was also a lot of weight (80 lbs) torquing on the stanchions. Even though I don't like it on deck, we now keep the kayak wedged between the shrouds and lifelines and lashed to the stanchions.

Still, they are very popular in our marina.  Would work much better with a smaller kayak.  YMMV.

Michael