Messages

The forward hatch leaks due to deterioration of the dog seals.  I've looked on-line at Bomar sites but cannot seem to match the exact hatch I have on my 1988.  Therefore, I've been reluctant to buy the replacement dogs shown on various web-sites. 

I've looked all over the hatch and cannot find a model number to save my life.  Also, the parts list on-line here does not provide enough detail.

Anybody replaced the dogs (or seals)?

Thanks 

Jon - If I may be so rude, but how much did that set you back?

I really like the 3 blade flex-o-fold.  I get at least 1/2 knot extra speed on a reach and prop-walk is reduced.  I have the same engine as you and got the 15x10.   You can go 15x9, which will give you a little more torque but a little less speed. 

It's a good idea, but let me take Ron's message one step further.  Fleet 12 has a tool, and it has served us (and me) well.   Note that the tool is very heavy and bulky.  I only live 20 miles from the keeper of the tool, so it was easy to get and return, all in one day.   Shipping it all over the country may be very expensive and not make much sense.  I don't know how the 36 guys do it, but it may be best for individual fleets to buy their own.  Think global, act local.  Just a suggestion.

Sean - I had to do the same thing, limit the rudder swing.  Is there an upgarde package?

There was another source of LED lights that I thought was pretty reasonable - mastlight.com  Got a 1 foot weatherproof double strip of warm white that I plan to sew into the bimini for an "at anchor" night light.  Only $30.  They also sell anchor lights and such on their website. 

Mike:  I'll tell you one critical criteria.  - Does the new Smart pilot X5 require the installation of  a tiller sensor?  If not, then go with that.   I installed the S1 last year and while performance is OK (my old Autohelm 4000 was better), installing that tiller sensor was an enormous pain in the a@@.   I had to remove the propane locker and the rear salon panels and then slide myself down into the rear lazarette.  Once in, I was wasn't getting out and had my wife hand me the tools I needed. 

Ron - not a bad idea, even if I wasn't having this problem.  Sounds like a good maintenance "upgrade".

Thanks 

Thanks guys, especially to Ray - I have spoken to a mechanic.  I still plan to have him do a compression test as I have not had the engone checked out for quite a while.   But I can do these preliminary tests first.  The injector test is especially interesting.   When I accelerate, I can only go so far, which leads me to believe that the injectors could use cleaning.  Hopefully, it will be that simple.   

I have a 1988 MX-25 with about 650 hours.

I've been getting white smoke all summer when running the engine at about 1600 rpm and up.  I've read past posts and most people believe that white smoke is steam from poor raw water flow.  But I don't think that's it. 

I think it may be from something else.  For whatever reason, the engine just doesn't push me as fast as it used to.  I probably hit 5.5 knots on flat water with no current, it used to hit 6.2.  While the engine revs to 3000 while in neutral, I'm lucky to get to 2000 rpm under load.   I've read in other past posts that getting lots of white smoke at hi rpm is caused by too much fuel and poor combustion.  I tend to think that's it.

I did change the motor mounts and the cutlass bearing last season but that shouldn't affect performance.  The shaft seems to turn easily.  (It does run smoother with the Vetus motor mounts.)

The question I have is what can I do about poor combustion short of a ring job?.  Also, do folks think a tinkering of the valves may help?  The engine runs smoothly and don't hear any pinging that would be associated with bad valve seating.   

Thanks

Terry - You may have forgotten one other thing in your DIY estimate.  Our yard requires that you use a sander with vac attachment.  It's 25 bucks and hour and it usually takes me three hours.  And you need a decent respirator - another $40-$50 bucks.

Given your analysis - I would go with the yard.  It's a crummy/hazardous job, and $95 bucks an hour is pretty reasonable. 

Terry - It usually takes me just under 2 gallons for one coat.  I just rough up and sand every couple of years and add an additional coat, so I haven't done two coats in years.  I would buy 3 gallons, and if you don't quite make it, then go out and get another quart or gallon as needed.

One thing I do now is alternate colors.  My undercoat is blue and my top coat is black.  When I pull for the winter, I can then see where I've worn though and it gives me a better indication of how much paint I have on.     

Hey Hump - I had the same problem when I replaced my water pump.  The problem turned out to be air in the input line and the pump just couldn't seem to produce enough vacuum to overcome it.   So, I took off the input line and made sure it was full of water before I re-attached it.  Worked ever since. 

Thanks Ken, It makes much more sense now.  It's sort of like the old anti-freeze testers I used to ensure proper mix. 

And Joe, If I remember the Xantrex guide, it said keep equalizing until the SG hits 1.26. 

Have never equalized batteries before, but plan to.  However, I have a question about using the hydrometer.  All the hydrometers I see are long weighted rods.  How does one check the Specific Gravity of the acid when the plates are clearly in the way?.  Don't see where (or how) you let the hydrometer float.