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Topics - Kirk Garner

#1
Main Message Board / Deck thickness
March 03, 2014, 07:59:41 PM
Does anybody happen to know how thick the deck is up at the bow (near the center bow cleat)? If I were near my little ship I would just measure the bolts thru said cleat but unfortunately I am not). Working on a bow roller modification (gasp!) and have a 'need to know ASAP'.

As always, thank you kindly!

Kirk
#2
Main Message Board / Celestial Navigation
September 17, 2013, 03:18:28 PM
I would like to teach myself Celestial Navigation this Winter just as a hobby. There are many 'kits' available online and some include crap sextants for practice. I would appreciate good advice from any who may have already been down this road. Don't want to spend a fortune but would like a solid program with at least a good enough instrument to use as back-up later should the opportunity arise.

As always, many thanks!

Kirk
#3
Main Message Board / Stanchion Backing Plates
February 28, 2013, 04:51:57 AM
I am working on the East Coast and will be heading back home for some R&R shortly. Want to rebed all stanchions, bow and stern pulpits. Can somebody advise how many plates I will need to complete the job since I am 3,000 miles away from the Marina? Also is it the same plate for pulpits as stanchions? I would like to order these and have them waiting for me when I return as my time off is precious too little. Got the butyl tape already last year from Mainesail.

As always, thanks for your help!

Kirk
#4
Main Message Board / Wood Carved Number on the bulkhead?
November 08, 2012, 11:11:28 AM
Sorry for the trivial question but I have been curious about something since I took possession of Dixie several years ago. In the forward cabin attached to the bulkhead is a beautiful teak placard apprx 24" x 5" with the number 927008 engraved on it. I am the 3rd owner and do not know if this was attached by the PO or if this number originated from Catalina and what the significance may be???

The number on the mainsail is 636 which I believe means that Dixie was the 636th C34 manufactured but I may be mistaken here as well???

I really appreciate this site as the weather turns grey....... makes the downtime a little easier to bear!

Thanks again!

Kirk
#5
Main Message Board / Replacing zink on prop shaft
April 06, 2012, 12:36:39 PM
What are the chances of succesfully replacing the zink on the prop shaft using mask & snorkle (and of course wetsuit!)? Any brave souls ever attempt this?

Thanks, Kirk
#6
The Auto Helm 4000 model is apparently the predecessor to the ST4000. They look similar except the 4000 does not have a LED Screen. I am in need of a 'recalibration' but cannot locate the actual procedure. I was able to secure an old copy of the Operators Manual and it says absolutely nothing about the procedure.

Anybody else out there with the Auto Helm 4000 who knows how to recalibrate, I would be very happy to get your advice.

As always when I'm stumped, many thanks!

Kirk
#7
Main Message Board / Crossing the Columbia River Bar
September 17, 2011, 09:20:47 PM
I am moving Dixie south for the Winter and will be crossing the notorious Columbia River Bar sometime the end of this month. Any of you Pacific NW Sailors who have made that crossing with good advice for my first time would be very appreciated. They don't call it the graveyard of the Pacific for nothing.

Thanks, Kirk
#8
Just got back to the water and am seeing the Volt Meter (part of the wiring harness upgrade over the Winter) nearly pegging at 15 to 16 volts and drops very little even at idle rpm? I have checked all connections and appears nothing loose and wired correctly. Where would the likely place to start looking be?

On another note concerning the wiring harness upgrade, the Tan/Black wire is for the High Temp Alarm and is suppose to run from the panel to the high temp switch on the block? My ignorance is showing but where will I find the high temp switch on the block?

Thanks kindly, Kirk
#9
It's been a long time on the hard but am about ready to put Dixie back in the water, thanks to many of you on this site! There is really no way I could have done it without your help. Thought I would attach a picture of the M25-XP and wish I would have thought to take a 'before' photo to show how far we've come. This is after having done the wiring harness upgrade, replaced all fuel and water hoses, pulled and cleaned the fuel tank with acetone, pulled the HX and had it boiled out before priming and repainting, chucked the Jabsco and replaced with a Raritan PHII and much more that escapes me at the moment. All this from a guy who hadn't pulled a wrench since the late 60's!

You guys have been very kind and once again, I do appreciate your great advice!

Thanks, Kirk
#10
I just received the PHII and am getting ready to deepsix the Jabsco but have several questions that I do not find answers to in the many PHII/Jabsco threads (and my 2 calls to the Raritan tech line have not been returned yet).

1.   The discharge hose on the rear of PHII goes 90 degrees straight down (whereas the Jabsco goes out the side straight into the hanging locker) and not enough clearance unless I drill a 2" hole in the bathroom floor (which is the way the diagram shows it) to route it forward into the hanging locker where it needs to make another 90 degree upwards to a vented loop then 90 degree's back down and forward again into the port settee storage where the holding tank is. This sure seems like alot of 90 degree turns for solid waster to travel in such a small 1 1/2" hose, does it actually work without getting plugged up?

2.   Has anybody else drilled a hole in the floor to accommodate the discharge hose and was there enough room under the floor to make this work?

4.   How high does the vented loop need to be to make it work properly (the diagram does not specify).

Thanks as always for your help!
Kirk
#11
Main Message Board / Replace the LP Gas Hose too?
March 03, 2011, 06:22:14 PM
I replaced all the fuel lines, some obviously needed, others looked okay but I replaced them anyway after reading the many posts regarding this. Question I have is what about replacing the LP Gas line (original as far as I know - 22 yrs) that goes from the enclosed tank in the aft lazerette to the stove/oven? I have visually inspected the entire 13' length and it appears to be fine, no nicks, scratches and hose still feels supple. This would be a costly line to replace with new fittings so don't want to unless you think it is necessary as a safety precaution.

Thanks as always!
Kirk
#12
Main Message Board / Hacksaw scratch (2) in strut
February 25, 2011, 04:03:29 PM
Sorry to have so many posts as of late and will try to make this my last inquiry for awhile but have a question regarding 2 scratches I inadvertantly made into one end of the strut with my hacksaw while removing the cutless. My question is should I fill the scratches with a product like silicone (or ???) before I press in the new cutless? I'm thinking it would probably not be a good thing for saltwater to make it's way in between the cutless and the strut if I don't fill the scratches first?

There are 2 small scratches that are less than an inch long and maybe 1/32" at the very deepest. I was going to make this my project tomorrow but will wait for some good advice before proceeding.

Thanks again!
Kirk
#13
I have'nt seen this mentioned in any of the threads so maybe everybody already knows about it but several boats ago I was seriously considering replacing the old rub rail due to it's very worn out and stained appearance. A friend told me to lightly wipe the rail with a clean rag dipped in acetone. Seriously, worked like magic. No rubbing, no scrubbing, just lightly wipe them down. Made them look like they just came out of the box, no kidding!

Thanks, Kirk
#14
Main Message Board / Vetus Motor Mounts
February 21, 2011, 08:19:12 PM
I have the M-25XP and notice that some of you folks have gone with the K-50 and others have gone with the K-75. Price is the same but it appears that both models will work, any pro's or cons I need to be aware of before I pull the trigger?

Thanks, Kirk
#15
Main Message Board / HX going to the radiator shop
February 19, 2011, 08:39:19 PM
After 3 years of total neglect by the PO I pulled the HX this afternoon and will take it to the local radiator shop for a good hot bath. I have ordered the new caps and gaskets from Sendure but do I take it to the shop with the existing caps in place or remove the end caps first? Not sure if it makes a difference but thought I should ask.

Thanks, Kirk
#16
After discovering that the water pump had been leaking (apparently for a long time that the PO neglected) I removed the water pump and had no problems unboltiing 3 out of the 4 nuts that attach it to the block. On the 4th nut however, with virtually no pressure at all the very rusted stud broke off with the nut, it had to have been barely hanging on. The pump came off of course and there is about 1/2" of the stud protruding from the block. Now what?

Are these studs screwed into the block? If so then I will begin applying the PB Blaster for several days and use heat on the block before I attempt to unscrew but my fear is that the stud will break at the block.

Any idea's from your experience would be greatly appreciated as always!

Thanks, Kirk

Thanks, Kirk
#17
Was getting ready to degrease/repaint the lower half of the engine and discovered enough rust to open an ore mine! The culprit appears to be a water leak from the water pump (which I will address under a seperate topic) due to the PO doing very little preventative maintenance which I am trying to make amends for now. My question regards getting rid of the rust that I cannot reach with wire brush and sandpaper without pulling the motor. I don't want to just spray paint over it and hope it goes away. Are there any reliable chemical products that can be sprayed into the hard to reach area's that might work or is this just wishful thinking?

Thanks as always,
Kirk
#18
Main Message Board / Thru-hull replacement?
February 13, 2011, 09:43:08 AM
I've done all the critical upgrades, changed all the fluids, replaced cutlass bearing, pulled/cleaned the fuel tank, replaced all the fuel lines and before I begin doing cosmetic stuff (which I can work on when she's back in the water) I am wondering if there is any good reason to replace the thru-hulls on a 23 year old hull? I've read most of the maintenance threads but have not seen any reference to just 'replace them'. Do they ever wear out? Are there any brands/materials better than others?

I am not currently aware of any problems but there was several inches of water in the bilge when I purchased but had her drydocked 2 days later to begin upgrades.

Thanks as always for your help!

Kirk
#19
After removing the tank for cleaning with Acetone per the great advice by Mr. Ron Hill I have been going thru the fuel lines and replacing them one by one. The 1 1/2" hose that drains the fuel into the tank also needed replaced and when I removed it there was a black wire running from the tank itself up to the bronze fitting where the tank is filled with a nozzle. I am assuming that this wire is a gound only and due to it's difficult access I want to ground it some place else? Any suggestions where to run this ground to would be appreciated. I am thinking ssomeplace on the engine, heat exchanger, etc. Sorry I am learning one day at a time here and your help will be appreciated.

I am on track to have this beauty back in the water by March 1st and your all invited to the coming out party to watch her strut her stuff.................. she is pretty shy but my o my such a beauty! but I'm her dad so guess that doesn't count?........
#20
Main Message Board / GORE GFO Packing Material
February 07, 2011, 08:37:58 AM
What is the best online source to purchase GORE GFO packing material? I contacted the mfg and they gave me the name of a retailer here in WA State but they were not helpful when I contacted them.

Thanks, Kirk
#21
Main Message Board / Water leak from the Binnacle?
February 05, 2011, 07:55:44 PM
After and during a good rain I am getting water in the aft cabin and appears to drip from screw holes overhead in the ceiling (I have the inside torn out so no screws in place). This looks to be approximately underneath where the Binnacle is mounted in the cockpit. Has anybody out there taken the binnacle and wheel up to replace or rebuild? I am wondering if there are rubber gaskets at the base I need to replace and how difficult it is to reach them?

Thanks, Kirk
#22
Main Message Board / Cabin Sole refinishing
December 12, 2010, 09:37:12 PM
I have some water damage to deal with but think I can salvage the sole with some sanding and wondering if anybody out there has sanded down to wood and refinished might know what color stain Catalina used on their cabin sole?

Thanks, Kirk
#23
Main Message Board / Prop removal
December 07, 2010, 02:53:54 PM
I tried to pull the propeller off the shaft this morning using a mechanical puller in order to R&R the Cutlass Bearing but it would not budge? My experience so far is that if I start swinging a hammer the cost goes up exponentially! I am having some technical issues accessing Tech Notes so this topic may be in there but I can't get in and am stuck! Any help/idea's would be greatly appreciated! The meter is running....

Thanks, Kirk
#24
Main Message Board / Zinks
October 27, 2010, 08:49:01 PM
I am wondering where to find the zinks, in searching the site I can find the Heat Exchanger zinks but can't find anything else..... surely there must be more? The prop shaft has nothing and I assumed to find them there at least?

Thanks, Kirk
#25
Main Message Board / C34 Capsize 'Not Good'?
October 19, 2010, 11:40:41 PM
We purchased our C34 last month and still getting acquainted with her. Was checking out the Model Specifications in Catalina Owners website and came across the info here:
sail_area 528 SR / 554 TR
capsize not good
years_prod 1988

Does anyone have an idea what is meant by 'Not Good' in relation to capsizing? Sorry if this has been addressed in the past..... I am still learning how to glean the info from this awesome sight (yes, I just became a member of the C34 International Assn).

Thanks, Kirk