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Messages - Dave Spencer

#406
Main Message Board / Re: Mast Conduit Rivets
April 12, 2013, 04:56:21 PM
Does anyone know the dimensions of the inside of the mast?  Dimension A and B in the attached picture.  Mk 1.5  No Furling.  I want to build a brace to help me install new conduit in my mast this month before we put the boat in the water and my mast is 265km away at the moment.  Outside dimensions would be fine too... this won't be a precision tool when I build it and I'm sure it will need some field modifications.
Bonus question -how thick is the mast material (to make sure I have the right rivets).

 
#407
My new double stacked triple deck organizer finally arrived today from Garhauer.  It looks like a perfect match for my original triple sheave deck organizer in the "old" style housing.  The hole spacing is 2 3/8" on my boat.  The first one they sent me was not even close with bolts far too close together.  I talked to Guido after the wrong size showed up and the great service from Garhauer that I've heard so much about came through with flying colours.  I won't have to do any drilling and tapping but it looks like the method Kevin used would be the way to go if I had to do so.  Nice job Kevin.  I hope to install mine within the next couple of weeks.
#408
Thanks, Bill, I hadn't thought of that.  My topping lift is the line with the green tracing in it shown in the picture.  I also use it for my Dutchman flaking line and adjust it from the cockpit.  I see from the Mk I manual that the topping lift appears to be fixed at the masthead.

#409
I was examining the masthead a few weeks ago in preparation to remove it to install my new Garhauer ball bearing halyard sheave and to run new conduit down the mast.  I noticed a small pin just forward of the backstay toggle pin and I can't discern its purpose.   Does anyone know what this is?  :donno:


#410
Main Message Board / Re: Shaft size
March 20, 2013, 03:39:04 PM
Shaft is 1".  I like magnesium "zincs" for fresh water.
#412
Thanks for correcting my terminology Stu.  :oops: No wonder I didn't find much in my search!   
I'm glad you found what you need Bob.  We'll be looking for pictures of your new setup!

#413
Bob,
Congratulations on the successful run with your asymmetrical spinnaker.  I think the term you're looking for is "parallel beads".  A quick search of a couple of marine stores didn't come up with any assembled system but I'm sure they're out there.  Here's a link to individual beads that could be made into what you want.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C118%7C103371%7C311571%7C311613&id=89729   The attached link from a C&C user group talks about making a parallel bead tack which seems fairly straight forward.  http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/spinnaker/spinnaker.htm  ATN makes a sleeve that fits over the furled genoa called "the tacker" which is widely available.

I picked up a couple of old asymmetrical spinnakers from one of my dockmates in the fall.  I picked up a spinnaker halyard, masthead block, 135 ft sheet to allow for gybing and a couple of snatch blocks at the Toronto Boat Show in January... I can't wait to try it all out.  I haven't figured out how I'll rig the tack yet.  Like you, I'll try it out and see what works and what doesnt.  I'd like to keep the tack outside the pulpit as far forward as possible.  No doubt another run the the chandlery will be required once I figure out exactly what I want to do.  

Keep us posted on your progress.  Take some pictures if possible!

#414
I'm glad it worked well for you Kevin.

Next Project - Replace my erratic old Autohelm with a shiny new Raymarine X5 and replace / re-rivet the conduit in my mast that has come loose.
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7170.0.html
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7164.0.html

Hopefully I'll be able to get to those jobs within the next 6 weeks or so - after peeling the winter cover off the boat.
#415
Main Message Board / Re: Autohelm Repair Source
February 17, 2013, 06:20:46 AM
Jerry,
Have a look at the ST4000 Manual listed under manuals in the Tech Wiki. 
http://www.ganssle.com/jack/st4000.pdf
Page 12, 13 and 14 give an excellent exploded view and instructions for accessing the belt in the ST4000.  I found if very useful when I was trying to repair the clutch on my Autohelm ST4000.  The sections are separated by simply inserting a wide flat blade in the gap between the drive ring and the mounting plate and twist. 

Alas, no luck for me repairing my clutch.  Despite searching ebay and other sources for months, clutch parts for the ST4000 aren't available anywhere that I can find.  :cry4` A set of vicegrips clamped to the clutch pin did the job for me last summer.  On the positive side, I picked up a brand new Raymarine X5 Wheel Pilot at the Toronto Boat Show last month.  :D  So I will have some spares available for an ST4000 Autohelm once I install the new X5 in the spring.
#416
Main Message Board / Re: Deck Organizers / Turning Blocks
February 12, 2013, 04:31:14 PM
Kevin,
I haven't made the switch yet.  I ordered a new Double Stack triple sheave deck organizer from Garhauer at the Toronto Boat Show last month.  (Along with a bunch of other stuff that he had in stock at the show.)  One thing for anyone considering this, Garhauer's new deck organizer with the open frame has different bolt spacing than the old style we have on our C34s as shown in the picture in my first posting.  Good to know.  Although it isn't in their catalogue, Bill Felgenhauer said they have the "Old Style" and that's what he ordered for me.  (although it hasn't arrived yet... I'll give them a call in the morning.)
I'll post pics once I have installed the new stacked triple deck organiser.  This likely won't be until April or May since we're on the hard and frozen solid for the next month or so.
Ron,
I'll look forward to reading your write-up in the next Mainsheet.

#417
Main Message Board / Re: Flex-o-Fold Folding Prop
February 09, 2013, 04:02:29 PM
Dan and Dar
Pitch is in inches - It's the theoretical distance the prop would move in one rotation assuming no slip.
#418
Stu, Ron, Ralph,
Thanks for the advice.  I doubt that I ever would have screwed up the courage to drill out the scupper drain holes anyway.   :shock:  But my issue isn't streaks created by the scupper run-off.  Maybe because our boat has been Awlgripped a beautiful flag blue.  My dockmates seem to suffer from streaks but we haven't had that problem on our C34.  My concern is that the scuppers tend to get jammed up with gunk easily and drain slowly or don't drain at all.  I would be reluctant to put a small tube in the drain hole which would make the jamming problem worse rather than better.  Any other ideas are welcome. 
#419
Main Message Board / Re: Re-Bedding Vented Stanchion
January 24, 2013, 05:07:24 PM
Time Flies and Molly Rose,
If I ever build up the courage, I plan to drill out the scupper hole and glass or epoxy in a short length of stainless steel tube flush with the inboard edge of the scupper indentation and extending maybe 1/4 or 1/2" beyond the outboard edge.  I don't recall the diameter of the tube - i have a length of SS tube on board but it's 3 hours away on the hard.  I'll be making one of my 2 or 3 winter visits to our beloved boat shortly and I'll measure the tube.
Does anyone have any advice on this subject? - likely should be a new thread.
#420
gimme,
Hi and welcome to the forum.  There's tons of great info here.  This thread describes what I did to my hold tank vent starting at Reply 17. 
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6861.15.html

I agree with others who suggest changing hoses before you attack the holding tank.