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Messages - 2ndwish

#151
Main Message Board / Re: Oberdorfer pump question
April 18, 2011, 08:12:59 AM
Thanks Mike. There is a small spot of rust at the pan (1cm). The PO and 1/2 CO tells me the water pump faceplate has leaked in the past. Would that present the same symptoms (ie a little corrosion on the weep holes as well as marks on the engine)?
#152
Main Message Board / Oberdorfer pump question
April 17, 2011, 09:25:13 PM
After reading the various threads about Oberdorfer leaks and rebuilds, I took a look at the engine. Low an behold, there was some corrosion around the weep holes and evidence on the block that it had been leaking. I decided to see how bad the leak was and ran the engine for 20 minutes under load. The weep hole was dry. We went sailing today and motored for nearly an hour. Checked again after the sail-dry again.  Its possible that the pump used to leak and was repaired, but why wouldn't the corrosion have been cleaned? Any ideas?
T
#153
Main Message Board / Re: Grounding issue...?
April 13, 2011, 11:06:11 PM
Mahedra- It sounds like a bad cable connection either in a hot or ground wire. If you followed Stu's advice, you have a complete wiring diagram of the system.  You know that the starting circuit voltage is good, and the circuit with the bilge pump has a big voltage drop (due to a resistive connection). If it were me, I would study the wiring diagram to find where the drop might be occurring and feel which connections are warm. You could also get a multimeter and measure the voltage (measured between the power and return lugs) at the different points in the circuit, maybe starting at the bilge pump and working back towards the battery, which you know to be good. You can also gain clues from the diagram by figuring out which parts share circuit wires (like your stereo and bilge pump) and switch additional parts on and off which share wires from a split point closer to the battery. You will eventually find the bad connection. Good luck.
T
#154
last photos
#155
more photos
#156
more photos
#157
More photos
#158
Ok- Got to the boat today and took enough pics to document the process. First photo is of the new cleats installed (Catalina Direct 8" aluminum cleats). In this photo you can also see the old roller cut away. The next step was to remove the OEM cleat which had problems with clearance against the roller (this was the topic of a previous thread). We used a C-D roller (24", #Z1758) Garhauer has an identical product. The curvature of the deck required a filler plate (or extensive fiberglass work) and the standard backing plate needed some rework to accommodate resin blobs near the hull/deck joint. Access for all of the under deck work was through the existing Beckson port, although it was at times uncomfortable.

After putting the roller on, we were very unhappy with the Danforth anchors and the way it sits on the roller. We convinced ourselves that a new anchor was in order and purchased the 35 # Manson Supreme from W-M (with coupons).

The anchor lock was purchased from Marine Part Depot, and it was slightly larger than the flat sloped portion of the anchor locker (see second to last photo), which required some filler on the bottom.

We decided on a SS bracket a la Michael Shaner, but the fabricator (Shutts Metalworks) suggested using 1/4" 304 plate, bent into a right angle with diagonal angles welded on the corners. 316 would have been better, but the material cost would have been much higher, since the 304 was scrap.

While waiting for the bracket, we wired the unit. We ran wires to the house battery mounted in the forward starboard settee. The wire run goes from the battery, to the switch/breaker (2nd photo), through the bulkhead into the hanging locker (3rd photo), under the lip of the hanging locker to just under the top of v-berth bulkhead (4th photo), under the v-berth (5th photo) under the forward bulkhead (6th photo which also shows the anchor locker drain plumbing-Terry), up the bulkhead to the starboard chase. To cut the hole in the settee for the breaker, we used an oscillating cutting tool-it worked really well for fiberglass. The total cable length was 19 ft x2 (12V and ground), which required only 6 gauge wire (Genuinedealz.com-awesome), which was confirmed by a call to Lewmar USA (helpful folks). We still need to cable-tie the wires to the underside of the V-berth.

We agonized over the switch location as we were not satisfied there was sufficient room for both the switches and the cleat on the bracket. We eventually decided on the mounting the Lewmar footswitch on the side of the anchor locker (photo 7). We tested them first and found that they switched easily with side foot pressure and the molded anchor holder provided adequate foot rest. The advantage of this location is that there is no core there to get wet, and the wires are right in the chase. The test we performed was of the unit on the bracket prior to having the mounting holes drilled and diagonals welded. We used a spare halyard to position it and wedged it in place while we ran everything to check for clearances.

We had originally intended the windlass to be mounted entirely under the starboard anchor door, avoiding the lip, but pulling it as high as possible. We eventually decided that dropping the windlass under the lip allows better centering on the chain. Furthermore, with the bracket 90 degree angle, the windlass is tilted back ~7 degrees, providing a better feed angle, even when dropped another inch lower in the locker. The dry fit in hand, we drilled through the interior bulkhead to set the location of the hole pattern in the bracket. We then returned the bracket to the fabricator for completion.

While waiting, we mounted the contactor in the chase right next to the bulkhead. By the way, for feeding the wires from the switches, battery and windlass, a cheap fishtape (Harbor Freight) was priceless.  Photos 8&9 show the location of the contactor- a yellow water resistant fuse holder for the switch power is visible.

For the windlass cable feedthru, we used a Blue Seas Cable Clam (photo 10). Since the wire are 10 gauge, we passed 2 through a single clam.

The bracket came back from the fabricator. We decided to save $$ and polish it ourselves. The backing plates (photo 11) were made from electropolished 316 stock. While the fabricator rough sanded the bracket, we resanded with coarse then fine emery cloth and finished it off with Mother's Mag Wheel Polish (Pep Boys).

Mounting the bracket was an adventure. I fashioned a drill guide using a 1x2 and a drill press expecting that this would maintain alignment through the locker shell and 1.5 inches of plywood bulkheads. Yeah right. We ended up having to overdrill and correct by as much as 1/16". This brings up another piece of wisdom from Ron. I assumed that since the decorative and structural bulkheads contacted at the top and bottom of the starboard side as well as the top of the port side, that they are in fact in contact. The first (upper) set of holes revealed this to be true, but the lowers had 1/8" gap, mostly due to warpage of the decorative bulkhead. This was remedied when the 4 ea  5/16-18 bolts were fastened, albeit with moments of trepidation as the decorative bulkhead pulled away from the shelf-loudly. The bracket was bedded to the locker with Sikaflex polyurethane adhesive sealer. The OEM cleat removed from the deck was then mounted on the bracket next to the windlass (Photo 12).

The finished product is shown in the original posting, along with the locker doors closed in Photos 13 and 14. We left the old anchors in the locker, but they have no rode. If we find a mud bottom more suitable for the Danforth than the Manson (unlikely), we can just swap the anchor at the shank. Feel free to ask any other questions.

As mentioned earlier we tested the install this week. After setting the anchor, we backed down at 2100 rpm to see whether any problems developed either with the anchor or the bracket install. None were observed.

Lessons Learned:
Mount the switch/breaker where you can see it. It may be ugly, but it is really hard to explain its function to someone who has never seen it.

When thru bolting through 1.5 inches of possibly non-contacting bulkheads, drill from both sides.

Wear gloves when handling unfinished SS

Drill the deck to the full ID of a Cable Clam instead of what you think you might need. Silicone grease works well for passing wires through the cable clam rubber, so that it is unnecessary to cut a slot in the rubber.
#159
Tony and Rick- An interesting idea, but I wonder whether you are trading one problem for another. The chainplate is primarily loaded up under tension. This would tend to open the seal rather than close it in your design. The tie rod to the hull would then need to transfer almost all of the tension, which it is not originally designed to do. The tie  rods are not fully tightened under zero load and their purpose is primarily to prevent deformation of the deck, which carries most of the load through the chainplate. In your scheme the deck bolts, which have no interior backing plate, can't effectively distribute load to the deck, so the tie rods need to be tight to take all of the load. My primary concern is that the tie rod ends are mounted through a type of bushing which can only distribute the load to about 1 sq inch. This is probably ok given the thickness of the structural member through which it is mounted, but I am not privy to the design details in that area of the hull. I would check with CY and get their $.02 before proceeding.
T
#160
Main Message Board / Re: water coming in over bow
April 08, 2011, 12:27:10 PM
The drain in the anchor well (a nylon thru hull)is connected to a thru-hull fitting just above the water line via a hose. All parts are inspectible by getting under the v-berth. You can run water in and see where the leak is. We had a problem at the right angle adapter to the thru hull at the water line. You might also check the seal on the Beckson plate. Good luck.
#161
I'll get some more pictures at the boat this weekend. Thanks Ron for the advice on the rode, as well as the Wikis of both you and Michael Shaner which were quite influential in our approach. Scotty- we never though of mounting the switches on brackets in the locker- a great idea. Ours are on the side of the locker just aft of where the starboard anchor is stowed. We made sure the switches were easily accessible before putting them there. The deck mold on the anchor well sides has no core and that side abuts the cable chase, making an easy install. I can see heavy duty cables in the anchor well in your photo, does the V-1 have studs on the motor? How did you feed the large wires through to the wet side?
T
#162
Main Message Board / Another MKI Windlass install
April 05, 2011, 09:16:11 PM
Our winter project is done and we have installed a bow roller, new port and starboard cleats, a 35 lb Manson Supreme and a Lewmar V700 windlass on a SS bracket. Had our maiden voyage with the new equipment today. We went out to a nearby oil island behind the LA-LB breakwater in a 20 knot wind. Everything performed very well. The anchor set instantly and the windlass worked very well. The only minor issue we had was the anchor rode bunching under the windlass when hauling. This would cause the rode to back up in the unit and slip. It was easily remedied by pressing on the piled rode in the locker to maintain clearance. A photo of the install is attached. Will post all of the details if requested.[attach=#]
#163
Main Message Board / Re: Boat Storage Question
March 08, 2011, 08:55:29 PM
While it seems like a bad idea and well worth checking with CY- I would remind you that in its natural state (afloat) 90% of the keel weight is hanging off the hull. The strain at the joint is even greater when the boat is heeling. The CY guideline is presumably to minimize localized forces where the cradle meets the hull. I have definitely seen boats with indentations where the cradle pads meet the hull. In this case though, it appears the cradle was tailored to the hull which would distribute the load. Furthermore, if the cradle is designed to align with structural bulkheads, the load will be distributed through the deck and tabbings throughout the hull, so it may not be a very big deal. Just think-you can get to that unreachable spot with bottom paint before it's in the slings!
My $0.02

T
#164
We too needed to replace that light. After a feeble attempt to install a $10 Home Depot battery operated fluorescent, we went with 36" of rubberized LED strip lights. They are available from several vendors but we used:

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/LS-24W/WHITE-12V-24-LED-LIGHT-STRIP/1.html

The self adhesive backing was sufficient to allow staking with small dots of epoxy to secure it. We needed to install a rocker switch in the wood panel next to the cabinet. I wired it with 2 series diodes (I could have used resistors) to buy some overvoltage margin. The LEDs like these without regulators are quite unhappy above 13.6 V. The result is as bright as the fluorescent was with much less power.

#165
Main Message Board / Re: Ammeters & Shunts 101
January 16, 2011, 09:22:07 PM
Our recently replaced ammeter was -0+ (plus and minus).
T