Messages

I thought all the fittings were in front?  I have about 4-6" in front of mine I think (but don't quote me on that).  No, I have never removed it though.  Can you remove the fittings, unscrew it from the mounting board, rotate it clockwise and lift it out?

Sorry I'm not much help.  If you suspect fittings, before you remove it you could try to wrap each in plastic wrap and see which one is moist on the inside after an hour or two.  Just some thoughts.  Good luck.

C34 mkII "Ambitious"
Solomons, MD

Great.  Thanks for the information.  I'm feeling pretty silly if I missed the instructions on the inside of the door.  I didn't really needed it yet, so I haven't looked too closely.  However, I take off on a week long Chesapeake cruise on Monday. I should figure it out before I go.

Thanks again.

C34 mkII "Ambitious"
Solomons, MD

Am I missing something here?  My stove burners work great, but I can't get the oven to fire.  The igniter does not press in, like it was locked out.  Also, when I turn on the burner for the oven and hold the valve knob in, I don't hear gas.  Is there another valve or safety I am missing, or do I need to start taking things apart, starting with the igniter?

C34 mkII "Ambitious"
Solomons, MD

The wire is an interesting idea.  However, wouldn't you have problems getting a sling in there to lift the boat out of the water for the season?

Also, on my old swing keel Catalina 22, the wire for the keel would hum when you really started moving.  It was tight light a piano wire though, and yours would be somewhat loose.

Down here in the Chesapeake we have the same problem, but with crab pots. I know a few folks who admit to having put cutters on their prop shaft, so it cuts what tries to wrap around the shaft.  Just don't let a waterman catch you destroying their pots.

C34 mkII "Ambitious"
Solomons, MD

It worked!  It just so happens that the freshly emptied BBQ grill tank on my deck had a Sherwood valve.  However, removing the valves without damaging the soft brass is difficult.  I had to go get a monster crescent wrench and rig a clamp for the tank with 2x4's.  I also added another foot of pipe on the wrench to break the valves free.  Once done, I performed the swap in a heavily vented area. Then I had it tested and filled.  I took the old steel BBQ grill tank (with my old aluminum tank valve) to a Blue Rhino tank exchange.  The tank swap cost me $13 more with the non-OPD valve.  

My aluminum tank date is Sept 1996, so I have ten years from there and a recertification is good for 5 years.  Thanks for the tip on steel tanks Ron.  I looked and it seemed like they were around $60 empty.  That was my close second option if the right valve wasn't just sitting on my back deck waiting for me.  

One last note, the replacement BBQ steel tank for my grill had a non-Sherwood valve.  Yes, it made a ding, ding sound when it was rocked, so I am guessing it was the pivot variety.  

While doing this, I had one more thought.  How can you rig a low pressure backup "T" on the system to accept a portable 1-lb canister.  This would be useful if you run out on a trip.

C34 mkII "Ambitious"
Solomons, MD

My propane tank just ran out and the PO (previous owner) had not  converted to an OPD valve yet.  The local places want $100 to install an OPD and recertify the tank, and it will take a week to get the parts and do the work.  New tanks are $160.  That is a 10lb 2.5 gal (I think) aluminum tank standard on the MKII's.  I went to do some emergency research and have found some interesting information.  First, the DT number on the tank stands for Dip Tube length, not Department of Transportation.  DT is the critical factor on valves.  It turns out that my DT is 4.0, the exact same as the standard steel BBQ grill 20 pound tanks. I called Sherwood (valves) to confirm my suspicions, that you can just take the OPD off of an empty steel 20LB tank and put it on the aluminum tank.  They said yes, same valve, no problems.  Use teflon tape or gas sealant on the threads.  If you use teflon tape, only use it on the upper part of the threads.  If you cover it all the way down, small pieces could end up in the tank and there would be a (relatively small) risk of clogs.  

Another intersting note is that there are inline OPD valves and those that work on a pivot.  You want inline which is what Sherwood makes.  Others like Manchester and Stopvalve use the pivot variety that when full, might knock against the top edge of the tank when the boat rocks.  This could be annoying.

So I'm off to the store to find a Sherwood valved BBQ grill 20# tank to see if this is all true.  After the valve swap, I'll see if I can have it recertified too to be safe.  I'll report back later.

C34 mkII "Ambitious"
Solomons, MD

I don't know the size of the letters, but this is the hailing port from the PO on my '97 transom.  Sorry the pic is 600K, but the detail is good.

 

C34 mkII "Ambitious"
Solomons, MD

My boat didn't come with sheet bags in the cockpit against the bulkhead.  With 4 or 5 sets of lines on each side, I think I need them.  Does anybody have any recommendation on size/attachment/vendor for these?  I see BoatUS only carries mesh bags in two sizes.  Is there a better option I might be missing?

C34 mkII "Ambitious"
Solomons, MD

I recently upgraded from a C27 with an outboard and found the same thing.  There are some excellent notes in the FAQ and message board on dealing with prop walk.  Try the search function on both this page and the main page.

As for backing out of the run in 15 knot winds, it is not necessarily a bad idea.  Tyring to change the momentum of a 7 ton boat in a narrow space with a a breeze is difficult.  I know a few who back down their runs and into their slips for the very same reason.  

Good luck.

C34 mkII "Ambitious"
Solomons, MD

For a price I couldn't refuse (free), I recently picked up fiberglass dinghy.  However, it is 25 years old and needs some quick work to look presentable.  My biggest problem is the gelcoat.  It is cracked and crazed from sitting in the sun unprotected for the last 10 years.  I was going to fill the few larger voids with epoxy putty, then sand and paint the whole thing with single-part Interlux Brightside topside paint.  This paint is pretty thin stuff though, and I don't think it will fill all the smaller cracks.  Is there a thickening agent for it or has anybody used the primer for this purpose? It doesn't have to be perfect, it's just a dink.  I just haven't used the topside paint on a hull for almost 10 years and I forget how it works and flows.  Any feedback is appreciated.

Thanks.

C34 mkII "Ambitious"
Solomons, MD

Brian-

I think I know the boat you are talking about.  I thought the name was Miss Directed though.  It was a tan 1992 C34 MK1 with a walk-through transom listed by AYS.  Is that the boat?

If so, I don't know anything more about the owner(s), but when I looked at it last November I wrote down the USCG documentation #.  Contact me at reedbr@erols.com and I'll send it to you.  From there you can order an abstract of title from the Coast Guard for $12 which will show every owner who ever documented the boat.

Let me know if we're talking about the same boat.

C34 mkII "Ambitious"
Solomons, MD

Has anybody done a dinette table modification like the one on this boat? (I hope I can post the picture correctly).  This comes from a 1998 C34 for sale in Milford, CT (Yacht World).

 

-Brian

C34 mkII "Ambitious"
Solomons, MD

Wow, what a busy weekend.  Friday night I closed on my new boat, a 1997 Catalina 34.  Sunday I sailed 45 miles down the Chesapeake from Annapolis to Solomons in about 15 knots of wind, one tack the whole way.  What a ride and a beautiful day too (for December anyway).  These are great boats and "Ambitious" performed well with no suprises.  

Now I have to hurry up and winterize the whole thing.  Can anybody tell me if the Mark II has an inspection port in the aft watertank.  I don't see one, but maybe I missed it.  Everything has been rushed and I am still studying the owners manual.

My own 34.  I knew someday it would happen!

C34 mkII "Ambitious"
Solomons, MD

What is the lowest temperature that a reverse cycle A/C (aka heat pump) will be effective down to?  I tried running one yesterday, but water in the line must have been frozen overnight.  Somebody else told me they wouldn't really work below 44 degrees anyway.  I don't know where they picked that number up from.  Does anybody have experience or spec's on this?

Thanks.

Just an update for anybody keeping records.  I just completed a survey on hull #1356.  There were no signs of blisters or signs of any blister repairs.  The manufacture date was B7 or February of 1997.