Join the C34 Association Today!
[C34 Home] [C34Tech Notes] [C34 Tech Wiki] [Join!]
Please login or register.
Advanced search  

News:

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - reedbr

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 12
16
Main Message Board / Re: Sherwood raw water pump
« on: May 28, 2013, 11:34:22 AM »
Thanks a second time Jim. It looks like you've been where I'm going on a couple repairs. How many hours on your diesel?

17
Main Message Board / Re: Oil Pressure Sensor
« on: May 28, 2013, 11:22:04 AM »
Jim-

Many thanks for going off-topic! Based on this diagram, it looks like part #17, and a good cheap place to start at $18. This appears to be the starboard side of the engine based on the dipstick. Do you remember if that is correct for your MkII?

http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/catalogs/catalog_group.php?owner=mdd&page_ident=201021-8&model=M-25XPB%20M-35B%20M-40B&manufacturer=Universal&title=OIL%20PAN%20ASSEMBLY,%20OIL%20PRESSURE%20SWITCH%20-%20M-35B%20/%20M-40B&quant_position=&catalog=201021&printparts=201021&printservice=&printoperators=&comment1=

Sorry for going further off-topic, but I wanted to make sure Jim got my thanks.

18
Main Message Board / Re: Sherwood Redux
« on: May 28, 2013, 08:54:28 AM »
I'm a little hesitant to add to this thread since it seems to have a "which pump is better" vein running through it. However, the Information is dead on what I need to do so if we can assume I want to keep my Sherwood pump (10 seasons under my ownership, 600+ hours, first issue is now), what are the repair parts?  I've read a couple threads on the water seal usually being the issue and I have signs of that in a rusty water trail in that area. However, at the end of last year I saw evidence of oil in the same area. If I'm doing the work, I think I should look at doing both. I see a new pump is around $400. A "rebuild kit" is $270 that includes the shaft. Both seem like overkill if it is just replaceable rubber seals. My parts information is from here:

http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/catalogs/catalog_group.php?owner=mdd&catalog=201021&model=M-25XPB%20M-35B%20M-40B&page_ident=201021-50&manufacturer=Universal&title=RAW%20WATER%20PUMP&size=600

Any part recommendations? This is a 1997 MkII M35B, 1060 hours total, on it's original pump if paint is any indicator. Thanks in advance.

19
Main Message Board / Re: Replacing Sherwood pump - gasket sealant?
« on: May 28, 2013, 08:10:55 AM »
Can I ask where you got your Sherwood raw water pump and possibly the part #? I'm just starting my research on this. Last year at the end of the season I noticed some signs of oil around the shaft of my pump. This spring I see signs of rusty water in the same area. I've cleaned it up each time to try to identify the specific issue, but at this point I think I'm going to replace it to be safe.

Thanks.

20
Main Message Board / Re: Search Broken?
« on: May 28, 2013, 07:47:47 AM »
Yes for me as well. My oil pressure light went on coming into the slip this weekend and I was trying to do a search on common issues. I have to admit the crew did a fine job on sailing the last couple hundred yards into the slip though!

21
Main Message Board / MkII Adding Salon Vent
« on: January 20, 2012, 02:05:00 PM »
My MarkII is always a little stuffy when I first get onboard.  Even though I leave the cabin doors propped open and the aft mini hatches open to the first ridge, there isn't enough flow.  I'm finally getting the courage to cut a hole in the boat. I've been contemplating this for 5 years now.  A nice sister gave me a Nicro solar vent for Christmas and pushed me over the edge.

The question is, where to put it.  From all the archives, I see Ron has one between the mast and forward hatch, somebody put one in the main salon hatch lexan, and a third put theirs in the fiberglass between the salon hatch and the mast.  Pro's of the salon hatch is it is easier to fix if it doesn't work there.  Con's are possibly stepping on it and cracking the hatch glass.  Forward of the mast gets lots of sun and vents the V-berth too.  I'm wondering if it snags jib sheets easily.  Moutned in the fiberglass between the salon hatch and the mast is probably pretty free from foot traffic due to the running rigging attached to the mast base. Does it get enough sun to run?

OK, any advice before I start cutting?  Any recommendations, opinions (uh-oh), or additional consierations? Location I haven't thought of?

Similar threads:
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,1244.0.html
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,2173.0.html
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,1462.0.html

Thanks.

22
Main Message Board / Re: Another hard to reach spot
« on: May 18, 2010, 12:06:59 PM »
I go in from the bottom on my '97 MkII.  Remove the forward half of the aft cabin cushions, remove (or just lift and prop) the big board under the berth covering the stuffing box.  I can't see the zinc bolt, but I can feel it and stick a standard socket wrench up there and take it off easy.  I can't seem to find short zinc's, so I measure depth with a pencil, eraser end in first.  Hacksaw the new zinc to that length and assembly is the reverse of removal.  The first time it might be handy to look up there with a mirror first to get an idea what you are dealing with.  I keep an old compact mirror in my toolbox for this sort of job.  10 minutes including hacksaw time.  Every boat is different though.  If you have fuel or cooling lines hanging low, this method might not work.   

23
Steve-

I had Ambitious done three years ago at Zahniser's/Quantum in Solomons.  When I called around, nobody in the Annapolis area (45 minutes away) wanted the job.  They all said the boat was too far and all required several visits to the boat to do the job.  Bimini, dodger, connector and main cover were about $4K total, and I think the dodger was $1700 of it. 

Two other notes since you are familiar with the boat:
(1)  I kept the removable side panel design from the original.  It makes the dodger bearable during Chesapeake summers.  I usually put the sides on for spring, fall, and heavy weather sailing.
(2)  I did not have the zipper slit for the traveler lines put back in.  I rerouted the traveler cam cleats to the inside of the dodger closer to the companionway.  An extra pulley in the old cam cleat location made it possible.  A Bulls-eye fairlead provided too much friction.
(3)  With the old dodger, I had to remove all the lines to remove the dodger in the fall.  The new dodger has a split bolt-rope near the deck oranizers so I no longer have to do that.  A snap connection keeps it from spreading apart while mounted.   

I used to have pictured posted here, but all that remains are some work-in-progress ones:
   http://users.erols.com/reedbr/temp/

24
Main Message Board / Ecobulb MR16 CFL
« on: September 29, 2009, 11:53:21 AM »
I've been playing with LED's on the boat and CFL's at home for several years.  Overall, things are getting better as far as options and performance.  The first SuperBright LED's MR-16 replacements for my MkII eyeball lights were really poor.  They only drew a 1/4 watt, but the dim blue light was only borderline useful. Two years ago I picked up a DrLED 1 watt bulb that had a nice warm white color and reasonable brightness.  I was impressed, but the price was $30/each.  There is a 3 watt DrLED version I have found since then, but I haven't tried it yet.  The trouble is, it is hard to beat the overall light provided by the 20 watt stock halogen lamps supplied by Catalina (in a 10 watt fixture I might add).

Recently while at Home Depot, I saw a compact fluorescent MR16 mount bulb for less than $10.  This was an unusual sighting.  The manufacturer is FEIT Electric and it is called an "ecobulb".  The package said "replaces up to 50 watts, uses only 5 watts, 12 volts".  I didn't get my hopes up, but it was worth $10 as an experiment.   I just tried it last weekend.  Here is the product on Amazon's site:

http://www.amazon.com/ECObulb-MR-16-Track-Light-BPESLEXN/dp/B001ACVJIE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1254248405&sr=8-1

It isn't perfect, but it is pretty good.  Like most CFL's, this one takes 60 seconds to really warm up and provide full output.  The initial output isn't bad though.  The light color is listed at 3500K, but it matched the stock halogen I had running on the opposite side of the same cabin.  Before I had one halogen and one low draw replacement in each cabin, giving me (well, my crew) the option of reading light (halogen) or just a find your bag/way light (LED's).  You can definitely read by this CFL.  With the combination of price and performance, I think I'll swap all forward and aft cabin lights for these, and half the eyeballs in the main salon.  I'll keep one or two key halogens, but that is it.  5 watts isn't nearly as low-draw as the LED's either, but it is significantly less than 20 watts, and it adds up if you are running 2 or 3 at a time. 

I just thought I would pass the product and a mini-review along in case anybody else wants to try.  If you do, post your own opinion here. 

25
Main Message Board / Re: alternator and tack problems
« on: September 21, 2009, 02:08:09 PM »
Bob-

If the tach came back but you didn't see 13 volts at the battery, it could just be that the batteries were still significantly discharged.  I usually see 13-14 volts when my engine is running too, but the batteries are usually between 12 and 12.5 volts to start.  As Stu said, a little more diagnostics is necessary.  Either way, no tach usually means a failure, even if intermittent, in the charging system. 

26
Main Message Board / Re: "Crazy Ivan" the Autopilot
« on: August 19, 2009, 06:15:48 AM »

I wasn't able to tell if my original "A" heading number on the control head was maintained as I didn't write it down every time I set it.  However, I can tell  that over the two minutes that it took to return to course, the "A" heading never changed.  I think that puts it in case 2 from a previous post.

On fluxgate location, there seem to be wires everywhere.  There is bundle near the rail and the fluxgate now being at counter height in the port aft corner of the head is near it.  One easy mounting location option would be the flat bulkhead that I think is in front of the fuel tank.  I had assumed the metal tank might cause some issues.  I could also attach to the outer hull almost anywhere in the head using epoxy and a monting block.  I'm wondering if the head location in general is my problem though.  The main panel for the whole boat is only 16" in front of of the head.

Who has a MkII with a happy ST4000 and where is your fluxgate mounted?

27
Main Message Board / Opening Port Leaks Resolved
« on: August 17, 2009, 01:22:23 PM »
On my 1997 MkII opening ports I was getting leaks I couldn't stop.  I got the McMaster O-rings and cleaned the port gaskets but still had problems at the same rate.  After talking with a C380 owner who solved a similar problem, I dug out the gasket that fills the gap between the outside aluminum trim ring halves.  The gap is a little over 1/16" and runs horizontally at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions.  The existing gasket was the consistency of plumbers putty.  I dug it out with a razor knife and filled it with silicone.  I had a couple good rains while on the boat last week.  The opening ports are dry.  I think these are the Lewmar ports. 

Next stop, chain plates...

28
Main Message Board / Update to "Crazy Ivan" the Autopilot
« on: August 17, 2009, 01:10:54 PM »
OK, I just got back from a week plus cruise on the Chesapeake with "Crazy Ivan".  True to form for intermittent problems, this one didn't resurface when I was ready for it.  It didn't reappear until the last day on the boat.  I was able to do some diagnosis, but it was limited as I had nine people on the boat for the last four days (yes, cruising with 9 onboard, 4 adults and 5 kids ages 10-15).  Here is my secondary set of notes:

- It is an Autohelm ST4000 vintage 1997, not a plus.
- I found some spare cable bundled up under the head sink, so I moved the fluxgate sensor 3 feet further to port and away from the engine.  The new location was right behind the head trash can.  This was done before the problem resurfaced.
- "Crazy Ivan" happened twice within 30 minutes of each other, both times while motoring north.  This was after the fluxgate sensor was moved.
- The change was still the same, 20-30 degrees to port, returning pretty close to the original course within 2 minutes.
- After the first incident, I unplugged the GPS and ran it on it's own internal battery.  It happened again while the GPS was unplugged (GPS is on the autopilot circuit).
- After the second time, I turned off the refrigerator but also had to change course to go upriver.  I went 30 more minutes without issue but then I was home.
- Most of the previous trip when the problem was bad I was heading north.  I was mostly motoring on that trip but it also happened under sail, also heading north. 
- Most of this recent trip I was heading south and Crazy Ivan was mostly on holiday.
-  Batteries were in good condition when the problem arose, having been plugged in at dock the night before.
- All during the week I could still hear the cabin fans changing pitch occasionally.  The integrated voltmeter on the panel didn't show any discernable jumps.  With that number of people on board, I was unable to pull the cushions and clip a digital meter on the battery posts for better readings.  Turning most equipment off for diagnostics also wasn't an option at the time.

So I still haven't fired Crazy Ivan.  However, if we go back to our original question on whether the problem is voltage fluctuation or magnetic interference, I'm leaning towards magnetic interference.   Of course, my experience is that the hardest problems usually have two causes which screws up diagnosis.  If I have any more to add after my Labor Day cruise, Iíll post it here. 

Thanks for all your suggestions.

29
Main Message Board / Re: "Crazy Ivan" the Autopilot
« on: August 04, 2009, 06:42:44 AM »
So far, two camps, voltage fluctuation and magnetic interference. 

Interesting, I've always thought about moving the fluxgate, not shielding it.

If the problem is voltage fluctuation, my first choice would be to eliminate the cause.  Second choice would be to limit the effect.  Could I stick a capacitor or resistor on the autopilot circuit to smooth the voltage?  I used to do this with car stereo's.

Typically bad connections and bad grounds are the first place to look for mysterious voltage noise.  The battery connections, being new, were recently cleaned.  What other connections are suspect?


30
Main Message Board / "Crazy Ivan" the Autopilot
« on: August 03, 2009, 03:16:00 PM »
I remember reading a submarine book once about the "Crazy Ivan" tactic, where a skipper would turn the boat abruptly 45 degrees to port or starboard without warning.  We have renamed our Raymarine 4000 autopilot to Crazy Ivan.  He only goes to port and usually only 20-30 degrees, but it is definitely without warning.  He usually comes back to course, or close to it, in about 2 minutes.  This weekend I played with some variables trying to identify the source of the problem but couldn't.  My clues are below.  They may be related or just misleading.  Toss out your theories though.  I have a week on the boat coming up starting Friday, so I'll have a chance to check them all out.   This is a '97 MkII. 

(1)  I used to think it was voltage fluctuation problem when the fridge kicked in as my batteries were weak.  However, I just replaced the batteries two weeks ago with no change.
(2)  I played with the circuit breakers trying to isolate possible interference.  I turned off the fridge for a couple hours and still had problems.
(3)  It happens with the engine running or not.
(4)  While I've never been happy with the heading control on the autopilot, I've sailed her for seven seasons and it wasn't always this bad.
(5)  The fluxgate sensor is mounted below the head sink, a whopping 12" from the engine block and alternator.  She was apparently delivered this way and I haven't found enough cable slack for a better position.
(6)  I recently hardwired my GPS in for power using cables from a previous GPS.  However, the new one is not connected to the NMEA/SeaTalk interface, just power.  I think the problem was this bad before the GPS hardwiring.  Interesting to note that I have an Autopilot breaker and a Nav/Com breaker (depth+knotmeter).  The GPS is on the autopilot breaker.
(7)  I was below yesterday adjusting my stuffing box with only the cabin light breaker on and only a Hella fan running.  While I was working, the fan pitch noticeably changed at one point, like the fan slowed down.  It could have been a voltage fluctuation or just dirt in the fan.  I thought it might be related.
(8 ) I don't have a good volt meter on board as my current one is a Harbor Freight special, good for telling 6 from 12 volts, but not 12.4 versus 12.6 volts.  I can probably stock a better meter for the trip.

OK, I'm sure you have ideas or questions.  Even diagnostic tricks would help.  Let me hear your thoughts.   I want Ivan exorcised before the end of the trip.  Thanks in advance.

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 12