Menu

Show posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Show posts Menu

Topics - reedbr

#1
$58,000 no broker price. As far as I can tell, still the lowest price C34 MkII in the US.

Two kids in college, the boat needs to go soon. In April I'll dewinterize it and take it to a broker. For now I thought I would put a quick post in and see if somebody wants to do the extra legwork and save the 10% commission. I'm told listing price with a broker would be about $65K, so I'm offering it here pre-broker for $58K.

"Ambitious" is a 1997 Catalina 34 MkII with the wider walk-out transom. Hull #1365, shoal draft wing keel and a standard rig. I have owned her since 2002 and I think I'm the third owner. The engine runs well, starts easy and has about 1050 hours on it. All the standard stuff for MkII's is there and operational: hot and cold pressurized water, refrigeration, self tailing winches, autopilot, depth meter, knot meter, and a couple anchors including my 33# Bruce that has never failed me. It also has a reverse cycle air conditioner/heat unit that works well in both modes. She is a white hull with navy blue canvas including dodger and bimini, roller furling jib and Dutchman main system. Garmin GPS system is included, as are pots, pans silverware and dishware. Beyond a good cleaning, hull wax and bottom paint, she won't need much for the coming season. Cosmetically she cold use some interior varnish and new sheer stripe tape.

Optional is an 8' sailing Trinka dinghy that I carry on Weaver davits on the stern.

Ambitious is layed up for the winter in the water on the St. Mary's river, off the Potomac in the lower Chesapeake Bay. That's Drayden, MD from the land side.

Contact me if you have any interest or questions.


Thanks.
#2
Main Message Board / Oil pan, early MKII's
June 19, 2013, 01:26:25 PM
I had an oil pressure alarm on my boat a few weeks ago. First I want to say thanks to those who gave me advice here, and especially to Ron who picked up the phone to help work out a solution. I think my problem is solved, but I still need help for a permanent solution on one item. Also, I did five things at once so I have no idea what my specific solution was, or if maybe my problem is just lurking to surface later. The alarm was intermittent at the time.

I need help on a permanent solution for #4.

What I did:
(1) Replaced the oil pressure sensor. It is a $15 part and is right behind the oil filter on my M35B. The connections were a little corroded when I took the old one off.
(2) Replaced the Sherwood raw water pump. This is probably unrelated, but it was weeping water through the weep holes and leaking oil where it attaches to the gear case. $370 at Engines1 in Norfolk, plus $3 for the gasket that is not included.
(3) Drained the oil and sent to to Blackstone Labs in Fort Wayne, Indiana. For $25 a sample, they read the tea leaves and told me that for the hours on the oil (9 on the recent sample, 50 on last fall's oil change sample) I had high iron content. I talked with Ron about this and we determined that my oil changes were incomplete. I was only getting 2-1/2 quarts out plus whatever was in the filter, and this should be a 4 quart engine.
(4) I took a closer look at my oil pan factory drain hose and realized the drain was in the bottom FRONT of the pan, not the back. When the engine is mounted at an angle, this matters. I removed the dipstick mount which is in the middle and wiggled a hose to the back and removed another almost two quarts.
(5) Put in new oil and a new filter.

I ran it about 7 hours on a trip last weekend and I did not have any issues. On the trip I rafted up to a 2005 C34 owned by my friend Jeff. Jeff showed me his engine, also an M35B, and his drain hose is attached to the back side of the pan, much lower than mine. His dipstick was mounted differently too. Basically, the oil pan was completely different.

So my question is, how do I get a lower drain hole for my oil pan? Is there enough space to drop the pan without raising the engine? Can I remount the factory drain hose lower in the pan? Should I just buy a new oil pan? And, how many years was production like this? MkII's started in 96 and mine is a 97, hull #1365. I assume I am not the only one.

I have a couple pictures. Can I post them directly here or do I have to host them somewhere else?
#3
Main Message Board / MkII Adding Salon Vent
January 20, 2012, 02:05:00 PM
My MarkII is always a little stuffy when I first get onboard.  Even though I leave the cabin doors propped open and the aft mini hatches open to the first ridge, there isn't enough flow.  I'm finally getting the courage to cut a hole in the boat. I've been contemplating this for 5 years now.  A nice sister gave me a Nicro solar vent for Christmas and pushed me over the edge.

The question is, where to put it.  From all the archives, I see Ron has one between the mast and forward hatch, somebody put one in the main salon hatch lexan, and a third put theirs in the fiberglass between the salon hatch and the mast.  Pro's of the salon hatch is it is easier to fix if it doesn't work there.  Con's are possibly stepping on it and cracking the hatch glass.  Forward of the mast gets lots of sun and vents the V-berth too.  I'm wondering if it snags jib sheets easily.  Moutned in the fiberglass between the salon hatch and the mast is probably pretty free from foot traffic due to the running rigging attached to the mast base. Does it get enough sun to run?

OK, any advice before I start cutting?  Any recommendations, opinions (uh-oh), or additional consierations? Location I haven't thought of?

Similar threads:
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,1244.0.html
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,2173.0.html
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,1462.0.html

Thanks.
#4
Main Message Board / Ecobulb MR16 CFL
September 29, 2009, 11:53:21 AM
I've been playing with LED's on the boat and CFL's at home for several years.  Overall, things are getting better as far as options and performance.  The first SuperBright LED's MR-16 replacements for my MkII eyeball lights were really poor.  They only drew a 1/4 watt, but the dim blue light was only borderline useful. Two years ago I picked up a DrLED 1 watt bulb that had a nice warm white color and reasonable brightness.  I was impressed, but the price was $30/each.  There is a 3 watt DrLED version I have found since then, but I haven't tried it yet.  The trouble is, it is hard to beat the overall light provided by the 20 watt stock halogen lamps supplied by Catalina (in a 10 watt fixture I might add).

Recently while at Home Depot, I saw a compact fluorescent MR16 mount bulb for less than $10.  This was an unusual sighting.  The manufacturer is FEIT Electric and it is called an "ecobulb".  The package said "replaces up to 50 watts, uses only 5 watts, 12 volts".  I didn't get my hopes up, but it was worth $10 as an experiment.   I just tried it last weekend.  Here is the product on Amazon's site:

http://www.amazon.com/ECObulb-MR-16-Track-Light-BPESLEXN/dp/B001ACVJIE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1254248405&sr=8-1

It isn't perfect, but it is pretty good.  Like most CFL's, this one takes 60 seconds to really warm up and provide full output.  The initial output isn't bad though.  The light color is listed at 3500K, but it matched the stock halogen I had running on the opposite side of the same cabin.  Before I had one halogen and one low draw replacement in each cabin, giving me (well, my crew) the option of reading light (halogen) or just a find your bag/way light (LED's).  You can definitely read by this CFL.  With the combination of price and performance, I think I'll swap all forward and aft cabin lights for these, and half the eyeballs in the main salon.  I'll keep one or two key halogens, but that is it.  5 watts isn't nearly as low-draw as the LED's either, but it is significantly less than 20 watts, and it adds up if you are running 2 or 3 at a time. 

I just thought I would pass the product and a mini-review along in case anybody else wants to try.  If you do, post your own opinion here. 
#5
Main Message Board / Opening Port Leaks Resolved
August 17, 2009, 01:22:23 PM
On my 1997 MkII opening ports I was getting leaks I couldn't stop.  I got the McMaster O-rings and cleaned the port gaskets but still had problems at the same rate.  After talking with a C380 owner who solved a similar problem, I dug out the gasket that fills the gap between the outside aluminum trim ring halves.  The gap is a little over 1/16" and runs horizontally at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions.  The existing gasket was the consistency of plumbers putty.  I dug it out with a razor knife and filled it with silicone.  I had a couple good rains while on the boat last week.  The opening ports are dry.  I think these are the Lewmar ports. 

Next stop, chain plates...
#6
Main Message Board / "Crazy Ivan" the Autopilot
August 03, 2009, 03:16:00 PM
I remember reading a submarine book once about the "Crazy Ivan" tactic, where a skipper would turn the boat abruptly 45 degrees to port or starboard without warning.  We have renamed our Raymarine 4000 autopilot to Crazy Ivan.  He only goes to port and usually only 20-30 degrees, but it is definitely without warning.  He usually comes back to course, or close to it, in about 2 minutes.  This weekend I played with some variables trying to identify the source of the problem but couldn't.  My clues are below.  They may be related or just misleading.  Toss out your theories though.  I have a week on the boat coming up starting Friday, so I'll have a chance to check them all out.   This is a '97 MkII. 

(1)  I used to think it was voltage fluctuation problem when the fridge kicked in as my batteries were weak.  However, I just replaced the batteries two weeks ago with no change.
(2)  I played with the circuit breakers trying to isolate possible interference.  I turned off the fridge for a couple hours and still had problems.
(3)  It happens with the engine running or not.
(4)  While I've never been happy with the heading control on the autopilot, I've sailed her for seven seasons and it wasn't always this bad.
(5)  The fluxgate sensor is mounted below the head sink, a whopping 12" from the engine block and alternator.  She was apparently delivered this way and I haven't found enough cable slack for a better position.
(6)  I recently hardwired my GPS in for power using cables from a previous GPS.  However, the new one is not connected to the NMEA/SeaTalk interface, just power.  I think the problem was this bad before the GPS hardwiring.  Interesting to note that I have an Autopilot breaker and a Nav/Com breaker (depth+knotmeter).  The GPS is on the autopilot breaker.
(7)  I was below yesterday adjusting my stuffing box with only the cabin light breaker on and only a Hella fan running.  While I was working, the fan pitch noticeably changed at one point, like the fan slowed down.  It could have been a voltage fluctuation or just dirt in the fan.  I thought it might be related.
(8 ) I don't have a good volt meter on board as my current one is a Harbor Freight special, good for telling 6 from 12 volts, but not 12.4 versus 12.6 volts.  I can probably stock a better meter for the trip.

OK, I'm sure you have ideas or questions.  Even diagnostic tricks would help.  Let me hear your thoughts.   I want Ivan exorcised before the end of the trip.  Thanks in advance.
#7
Main Message Board / Propane Regulators
April 23, 2009, 11:15:29 PM
Has anybody replaced their propane regulator?  I'm looking for the flow specs.  I bought a Mr. Heater low pressure regulator to replace my bad one.  It is rated at 75,000 BTU at 1/2 psi output.  I assume since 1/2 psi is the residential natural gas line pressure that it is right for my propane system, but it would be nice to get some confirmation.  I couldn't find any specs on the Seaward Princess stove except that it has two 7K BTU burners and a 10K BTU oven.  I couldn't find any specs on the old regulator either.  I did see a 10psi output regulator on the shelf near the one I got, but that only seemed appropriate as the first stage of a two stage system.  The other BBQ grill regulators were rated for 10K BTU and didn't list output pressure ratings.

Also, the nose o-ring on my tank connector was showing cracks so I replaced the whole connector.  I'll have to put that on my list of annual checks. 

Lastly, my 1996 aluminum tank is now over 12 years old, requiring recertification or replacement to refill.  If anybody in the upper Chesapeake area needs this done. United Propane in Millersville, Maryland said they can do it.  New 10# aluminum tanks are $250, ouch.

OK, really last question: My gauge reads 30-300 psi.  What pressure is full and what is empty?  I've got 95 psi in my current tank and wonder if that over half full or not.
#8
Apparently I need a diet.  When I was putting on the main and standing on the closed companionway hatch yesterday, it cracked.  It was the corner near the opening end and there is a solid all-the-way-through crack from the white pull lip, through a screw hole for the lower teak stop/support, and on to the port edge.  I drilled a new hole to the support bar underneath and added another screw as a temporary fix. 

How do I fix this long term in the least expensive manner?  First, for removal, can I assume I have to remove the whole fiberglass cover which extends under the traveler a most the way forward to the main salon hatch?  Where can I get a replacement?  Should my first call be to Catalina?

Any help is appreciated.  My MkII has an all Plexiglas companionway hatch, not the newer one I have heard of which is fiberglass with Plexiglas inserts.

Thanks.     
#9
When is the propane tank empty, based on the pressure gauge?  I think I have seen it up around 150psi in the past, yesterday it read 120psi.  At what pressure is it empty enough that it won't provide a good flame?  I'm trying to gauge when to refill it.  I used to fill once a season regardless, but according to the fill station it didn't take too much.  I use the stove frequently for cooking for a family of five and occasionally use the oven, so I'm surprised at how little I use.
#10
Main Message Board / Icebox Organization
June 14, 2006, 11:33:53 AM
I'm prepping for a cruise and one of the problems I have always had is icebox organization.  When you pack an icebox for 5 people for a week, it is full.  Those same people can also easily go through 15 drinks a day, especially if it is hot.  The problem is that if you take a cold drink out and put a warm drink in as we do, it should go lower in the box. Good luck getting lower in a packed box.  Also, if you pull out a 2-liter bottle or heaven forbid a milk jug, everything falls into the open hole and all organization is lost.   

To combat this, I have been thinking of a way to divide the icebox into two sections for drinks and food.  If I worked it right, I might even be able to use more of the dead space at the very bottom (under the lowest horizontal divider).  One thought was to install vertical PVC tubes where I could stack 4 or five cans vertically.  Another was a larger diameter tube to use with 2-liter bottles.  Either option would require cutting holes in the tube for ventilation and a way to pull the lower bottles/cans to the top.

Maybe I'm thinking about this wrong.  Somebody else here must have run into the same issue.  Any other ideas to divide the icebox vertically and not horizontally?  Or even ideas to keep drinks out of the general (food) population and prevent the disappearing hole syndrome?

Any help or pics are appreciated.
#11
Main Message Board / Icebox Hinge MkII w/Pics
April 03, 2006, 05:19:08 PM
I de-winterized this weekend and installed the icebox hinges I picked up over the winter.  They are standard take-apart hinges from West Marine and cost about $20.  That and (8) 3/4" screws, a hand drill, screwdriver and about 15 minutes was all it took.

After eyeballing it for a few minutes, I decided to hinge on the forward side of the lid, swinging towards the bow.  This way the lid stays up on it's own and gives me the most unrestricted access.  It's a 1/4" clearance with the storage areas above, but it clears.  The pictures tell the rest of the story.

Go here and click on the pics titled "icebox hinge":
http://users.erols.com/reedbr/temp/
#12
Main Message Board / Lightning Article
January 18, 2006, 10:50:11 AM
Apparently the may 2004 Mainsheet issue had a good article on Lightning protection. I'm looking to find out what is in my deck-stepped C34 MkII from the factory.  A search here didn't turn up much on the newer boats and I cannot locate my copy of May '04 Mainsheet.  Does anybody know where I can find that online?
#13
Main Message Board / Towel Bar in Head
December 15, 2005, 07:52:47 PM
I was just going through some digital pictures and came across this project from over the summer.  Our MkII didn't have a towel bar in the head.  Also, in a seaway it was missing a grab bar.  Due to limited space, me needing every inch of space I could get in the head, and a general frugality, I tried to nail both birds with one stone.  The solution?  An 18" long 1-12" diameter handicap bathroom grab bar from Lowe's for under $20.  It is sturdy, stainless steel, and has a grip surface that stops towels from sliding off too.  The only down side is that for true durability it had to be through-bolted.  The the bolts show at the nav station, but even that came out fairly nice. 

Here's some pics if anybody is interested:
http://users.erols.com/reedbr/temp/towel_bar_front.jpg

http://users.erols.com/reedbr/temp/towel_bar_rear.jpg
#14
I had some updates for several separate discussions going on in the forum, but as I'm lazy I'll toss it all into a single post here.  I just completed a 10-day trip with the family in the northern Chesapeake Bay and wanted to kick some of these thoughts out while they are fresh in my mind:

(1)  Spinnakers- I'm now hooked.  I borrowed an old symmetrical from a family member and bought the lines, blocks, and ATN "Tacker" to run it as a cruising rig.  I flew it three times over the cruise, learning a little more each time as this was all new to me.  Yesterday I was hauling down the Bay at 6-7 knots before the wind moved forward of the beam and I had to stop all the fun.  These things are great!  I got my Tacker through Defender (B model, $100), the blocks I mounted on the outside toe rail track and got from Garhauer for ~$50.  The line I got through the eBay store of "Discount Rope and Line" http://stores.ebay.com/Discount-Rope-and-Line_W0QQsspagenameZL2QQtZkm.  He was cheap and easy to work with.  Quick shipping too.  The sock was with the sail already and was critical for me to control it.  I even had a successful (and planned) gybe or two.  

(2)  Batteries- I had no problems here.  I have two lead acid wet cell 4D's in the stock location with stock wiring, original Flyback charger and the stock alternator.  I stayed on the hook every night except one.  The batteries are 3 seasons old now.  I ran the engine 25 hours in 10 days, an average of 2.5 hours/day.  I plugged in to charge that one night only and ran the whole time with the battery in the "All" position.  I had 5 people aboard, a heavy refrigeration load but no microwave and no inverter, no TV, no PC.  The engine started every morning without a hesitation.  Note that I was cruising with other boats most of the time, so I had an emergency backup in them.  I have ordered a jump-start battery with built in inverter for future cruises, just to be safe

(3)  FANS-  God bless Hella Turbo fans.  Did anybody notice it was HOT last week!

(4)  LED's- as promised, I played with LED lights.  A few things on this.  First, although the MkII stock fixtures are FriLight 10w halogen fixtures, every bulb I removed in my boat was 20w.  If the previous owner upgraded them from 10w to 20w, they did so in EVERY fixture, even the second one way back in the aft cabin.  My guess is that they are this way from the factory though.  No signs of burning in any fixture.  Anyway, I ordered some LED's from SuperBright LED's http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=MR16 and tried them out.  They ended up being MR16's for the bulb size.  I got the white 12 LED wide beam fixture.  You can read by the light, but only if you are right underneath of it.  Otherwise it is a poor substitute for the halogens.  I think I will try the 24-30 LED fixtures next and see how it goes.  I placed the LED's in fixtures that left me the choice of how much light I wanted.  For instance, in the forward and aft cabins, I had one fixture with halogen and one with LED's and chose based on how much light I needed.  That seemed to be an acceptable arrangement.  You can tell they draw almost nothing though, so you can leave it on more than you would the halogens.    

(5)  Sheet Bags-  I don't have any and was avoiding them, but my line clutter on the cabin top was awful.  Things seem to get pretty tangled up in sheet bags, for me at least.  I have been eying the Beneteau arrangement of a neighbor for awhile and decided that was for me.  They are a small button-shaped 1" disc that hooks a line around your sheets and holds them on the cabin top.  I finally called Beneateau parts and ordered 6 of them for $5 each.  I installed them while I was out and am very happy.  I just drilled 6 small holes (3 on each side) in the cabin top near the edge and screwed and caulked the buttons in place.  I might even have a picture on the digital camera, I'll check when I go through them.

(6)  Holding Tank- What the heck was Catalina thinking?  60 gallons of water, 20 gallons of fuel, but only a 17 gallon holding tank?  This is pitiful.  Even with strict instructions on how many pumps on "wet bowl" we still overflowed once and pumped out it three times (basically, any time the service was available to me just to be safe).  Yes, that is cruising with 5 on board, but come on.  I only used 13.8 gallons of fuel, about 60 of water, and probably 25-30 in holding tank and that became my primary cruising limitation.  The good news is that the ODØRLØS tank treatment worked as advertised http://www.odorlos.com/.  No smell whatsoever.  I used one full packet of dry per tank (advertised for 40 gallons per packet, but what the heck, it worked at that dosage).

This is my third year with the 34 and my third cruise of this length.  Overall I am very happy with this boat, especially as I get more of the little nitpick items fixed the way I like them.  Oh, that reminds me, towel bars in the head.  Mine didn't come with any.  I went to Lowes (like Home Depot) and picked up an 18" handicap rail and installed it on the wall which adjoins the nav station.  It is a double-purpose grab rail and towel bar and worked out well, plus it's stainless and has a sure-grip surface.

Now I need to get back to work...once my desk stops rocking.
#15
Main Message Board / LED Cabin Lights
July 12, 2005, 02:18:37 PM
There was a thread on this before, but no conclusions.  Has anybody replaced their pivoting halogen cabin lights with LED clusters?  I cruise with 5 people and sometimes have trouble maintaining a 3-light-at-a-time maximum rule for the boat.  

If so, did you find a drop-in replacement?  How many LED's per bulb?  Are they bright enough to read by?  This is what I was thinking of:

http://superbrightleds.com/MR16_specs.htm

Thanks.
#16
Main Message Board / Chartplotters
June 14, 2005, 02:38:54 PM
OK, I've spent all winter teaching navigation classes using GPS and chartplotters.  Maybe before I take my week cruise in August it is time to upgrade my aging Magellan GPS 310 and get something from this century.  I let my Practical Sailor subscription expire, so I can't go there for reviews.   I'm looking for advice.  

I've talked to friends and found many have and like their Garmin 182C's.  Several said they tried to save a buck and get monochrome display units only to upgrade it to color within a year or two.  Apparently visibility was much better with the color.  I don't want a hand-held chartplotter as they look to small to be useful.  I have a laptop so I could use a GPS interfaced to a PC, but I'm not sure I want a PC on my boat.  I'm leaning towards a dedicated chartplotter at the helm, hard wire it and call it a day.  My budget is $1,000 but less is always better.  Low current draw would be nice too.

So, any advice out there?  I didn't see a bunch when I did the search.  Sorry if I missed any threads.  Thanks.
#17
Main Message Board / Oil oops
April 11, 2005, 11:13:01 AM
I did the oil change on Saturday.  I went for the straight 30 weight oil in the store, but when I went to pour it in, I noticed it was straight 40 weight.  It was Chevron Delo 400 oil, SAE 40 non-synthetic, and after doing a quick check to make sure it was diesel grade (CF) I put it in anyway.  I only run in the summer and I only log about 100 hours a year, so I was hoping the thicker 40 would be OK.  Now I'm doing my research to see if I would need to change it again.  Nothing on this board on straight 40 oil in a Universal M35B, not a whole bunch on the web overall.

Any opinions?

While I'm here (and I haven't done a search on this yet), where do I drain the coolant from the FWC system?  I've only topped if off since I bought the boat three years ago and I figure it is time to change it.
#18
Main Message Board / Quickie Winterizing
November 09, 2004, 02:18:09 PM
I'm looking to speed up the winterizing process.  I seems to me that if I add Y-valves or T-valves inline on the engine, A/C, and head through-hulls I could suck the antifreeze into the system without wrestling those hoses on and off.  I couldn't find anything like this in the search.  Has anybody tried it?  Any recommendations on valves?
#19
Main Message Board / Lightening Strike Photo
August 13, 2004, 10:05:40 AM
I just noticed this on the WeatherChannel.com, picture #15 under the "Charley"  slide show.  It looks like a Hunter sailboat taking a direct lightening strike and the bolt traveling down the furler.  The image quality is low, so maybe it is an illusion.  This is the description provided:
"AP photo. Wed., Aug. 11: Lightning strikes over the Halifax Harbor Marina during a late afternoon thunderstorm in Daytona Beach, Fla. "

Take a look.  Here is a link direct to the photo that I copied to my web site:
http://users.erols.com/reedbr/temp/strike_in_daytonafl.bmp

Can anybody enlarge and enhance that for a better look?
#20
I've always been trained that to check the oil level, you pull the dipstick (ignore the reading on that first pull), wipe it, insert and remove it again for an accurate reading.  After years of working on cars old and new, I've always seen the first (inaccurate pull) has oil all over the dipstick (a high or fuller reading).  The second pull after wiping is lower and accurate.

On my C34mkII M35B, the variation is reversed.  The first pull always shows the oil level LOW.  The second pull after wiping shows it higher (FULL). The first time this happened after an oil change I was concerned since the engine drained and took ~4 quarts instead of 5 per the manual.  Well, I see that question was answered in a previous post (the manual is wrong, the capacity is 4 quarts).  I also have made sure the dipstick was all the way inserted before each pull (even the first one).  If I do it a third time or more, it always matches the second one.  This happens every time I check the engine.  The engine is usually cold when I check it.

Does anybody else get similar readings?  It's not a big deal, I use the second pull to gauge oil levels.  It's just a curiosity that it would be great to get an explanation on.  Throw in a lot of words like multi-viscosity, adhesion, and fitzer valve and I'll believe you.
#21
Main Message Board / Aft Cabin Door Modifications
June 17, 2004, 09:24:52 AM
The aft cabin entrance in the galley was my only concern with the C34 design when I purchased the boat a couple years ago.  I asked and most said it wasn't an issue, but it turns out to be as much of a pain as I thought.  I have three kids and that is their "room".  Kids never stay still.  Therefore, when we're in the galley the door is constantly opening and closing.  The traffic alone would be OK if I didn't get the door in my back so often.  That and you have to close them in when using the stove.  So here's the question:  

Has anybody modified or removed their aft-cabin door?    

I've thought about removing the door and putting in a curtain, but it seems a little cheesy.  If anybody's done this though, I would be interested in pictures.  I had a folding (pleated?) door and my C27 and that was kind of ill-fitting and ugly looking as well.  I thought about slicing the door in half vertically and installing a hinge, but that I would need a way to lock the hinge open for the door latch to work properly.  I also thought of moving the hinge to the other side and having it swing into the aft cabin, but there's not enough space for the top to swing in unless I again slice it in half.  The slicing would work with hook latches like the forward cabin, but it could only be opened from the side it was hooked.

Any other ideas here or feedback on modifications folks have done?
#22
Main Message Board / Hot water heater test
March 29, 2004, 07:21:08 AM
After de-winterizing this weekend, I noticed my fresh water pump cycling every 5 minutes with no spigots running.  After checking all the fresh water lines and checking clamps, I noticed drips from the bottom of the hot water heater right next to the batteries (MKII).  I removed the fresh water lines and connected the feed and return engine coolant lines together for a bypass, then removed the water heater.

The water heater is now in my basement and I have removed the cover and dried it out.  The tank itself looks to be in good condition, aluminum with no signs of corrosion.  I think it might be one of the fittings, but it only leaked under pressure.  Does anybody know of a good way to do a pressurized bench test of the hot water heater?  I was thinking of plumbing the fresh weater supply and return to a T fitting and with the last opening being a hookup to my garden hose.  I assume my home water pressure would closely mimic what the 12v freshwater pump is producing.  There is also a pressure relief valve and a drain valve, but plumbing a T to supply and return seemed easier.  Any other ideas?
#23
Main Message Board / Dutchman Parts
April 12, 2004, 07:29:17 AM
Where can I get Dutchman mainsail handling system parts?  I need to replace that continuous line and might as well replace the nylon filament while I'm at it.  I haven't found any sources here or on the web.

Thanks.
#24
Main Message Board / Walk through transom on C34 Mk I
October 21, 2002, 08:29:13 AM
Does anybody know what hull number they started walk-through transoms in 1989 or 1990 C34's?  Whas it an option for a couple years or a straight production change?

Any insight is appreciated.  Thanks.
#25
On previous boats, I liked to cover the cockpit in the winter with a canvas tarp.  I don't like the complication of a full length boat cover though.  This is just something to keep the leaves and snow out of the cockpit with a minimum hassle.  I have found a source for decent canvas tarps but I need to figure out what size to get.  My general idea on past boats is to cover the cockpit and the main hatchway, stopping at the traveler.  I also like to hang it lower than the boom on a 2x4 so it doesn't act as a sail in high winds.  Then I hang gallon jugs at the sides to keep it tight while allowing some give and take through wind, snow, etc.  Looks ugly, works good.  

So the question is, how long a tarp, how wide, and where can I lay the 2x4 without hitting the wheel pedestal?  The cockpit is approximately 8' long, so I am guessing a 10-12' long tarp. The beam is 11'6" at the widest point, so the cockpit is an estimated 8-10' wide? Allowing for a vertical rise at the peak, I am thinking a 10x12 tarp?  Sound right?  How do I frame the tent over the pedestal?  If anybody has an idea for this simple type of cover, I'm open to suggestions.  

Thanks.

Brian Reed
1997 C34 mkII "Ambitious"
Solomons, MD
#26
Main Message Board / Zinc in cooling system
April 02, 2003, 12:54:00 PM
The previous owner of my boat said I should check the zinc in the heat exchanger of the engine cooling system.  I found only one partial reference to this zinc searching the forum but no details.  I haven't found it in my manual yet either.  Can anybody shed a little more light on this for me?

C34 mkII "Ambitious"
Solomons, MD
#27
Main Message Board / Izzy on the Chesapeake
September 30, 2003, 06:02:42 AM
A friend forwarded this page to me.  It looks like Herrington Harbor North on Herring Bay south of Annapolis.  This is actually about 30 miles north of where I keep my boat in Solomons.  When the water rises over the breakwater and land at Herrington North, this is pretty exposed to the Bay.  I think one of our own forum members had a C34 weather the storm OK in the water at this marina.  Actually, if I remember right he was out of town and she had to prep the boat.  It might be a C34MKII in the foreground of the mast-top shot.  

Anyway, in all its gruesome detail, here it is:

http://members.cox.net/gbennett11

Brian Reed
1997 C34 mkII "Ambitious"
Solomons, MD
#28
Main Message Board / Cabin Fan Recommendations?
September 10, 2003, 07:49:40 AM
I need to install two or three small cabin fans in my MKII.  I especially need one in the aft cabin and one in the galley.  What models do you all use and/or recommend.  I am looking for a combination of quiet, low power consumption, and effectiveness.  I think a two speed would give me more options for quiet and power usage.  I see Hella's, Camfro's, and the basic RV style oscillating fan in most of the boat stores.  

Any opinions?

Brian Reed
1997 C34 mkII "Ambitious"
Solomons, MD
#29
Main Message Board / Fleet 12 contact?
July 21, 2003, 12:07:27 PM
I seem to have misplaced my Fleet 12 newsletter with contact information in it.  Does anybody have a phone number or e-mail for Hank & Susan Recla?  I think they are the raft captains for this weekends rendezvous in Mill Creek.  If so, please send it to me at reedbr@erols.com so I can RSVP.

Thanks.

Brian Reed
1997 C34 mkII "Ambitious"
Solomons, MD
#30
Main Message Board / Knot Meter Problems
July 01, 2003, 02:39:38 PM
I just installed my Autohelm brand knot meter transducer for the first time this year.  I had it completely cleaned off and spinning free.  I them immediately used the boat for a straight week and found it to work only 25-50% of the time.  At first it read very high (7 knots when we were doing 4), then I found the calibration was set to 2.5x.  I reset the calibration to about 1.3 and then it died again (reads 0.0).  Each day it worked some part of the time, usually more at lower speeds than higher speeds.  Sometimes it worked in the morning, sometimes in the afternoon.  The through-hull seems to have a single notch, so I can't believe that I have it installed at the wrong angle or backwards.  The sea tempurature always reads OK, so at least some part of it works all the time.  The transducer is in the port bow, about 6 inches up from the centerline and opposite the depth finder.  It looks like a standard factory or original comissioning installation.

What part do you think I should troubleshoot first?  Any help is appreciated.

Brian Reed
1997 C34 mkII "Ambitious"
Solomons, MD
#31
Main Message Board / Getting the Oven Working
June 16, 2003, 07:12:12 AM
Am I missing something here?  My stove burners work great, but I can't get the oven to fire.  The igniter does not press in, like it was locked out.  Also, when I turn on the burner for the oven and hold the valve knob in, I don't hear gas.  Is there another valve or safety I am missing, or do I need to start taking things apart, starting with the igniter?

C34 mkII "Ambitious"
Solomons, MD
#32
Main Message Board / OPD Valves
May 23, 2003, 11:40:07 AM
My propane tank just ran out and the PO (previous owner) had not  converted to an OPD valve yet.  The local places want $100 to install an OPD and recertify the tank, and it will take a week to get the parts and do the work.  New tanks are $160.  That is a 10lb 2.5 gal (I think) aluminum tank standard on the MKII's.  I went to do some emergency research and have found some interesting information.  First, the DT number on the tank stands for Dip Tube length, not Department of Transportation.  DT is the critical factor on valves.  It turns out that my DT is 4.0, the exact same as the standard steel BBQ grill 20 pound tanks. I called Sherwood (valves) to confirm my suspicions, that you can just take the OPD off of an empty steel 20LB tank and put it on the aluminum tank.  They said yes, same valve, no problems.  Use teflon tape or gas sealant on the threads.  If you use teflon tape, only use it on the upper part of the threads.  If you cover it all the way down, small pieces could end up in the tank and there would be a (relatively small) risk of clogs.  

Another intersting note is that there are inline OPD valves and those that work on a pivot.  You want inline which is what Sherwood makes.  Others like Manchester and Stopvalve use the pivot variety that when full, might knock against the top edge of the tank when the boat rocks.  This could be annoying.

So I'm off to the store to find a Sherwood valved BBQ grill 20# tank to see if this is all true.  After the valve swap, I'll see if I can have it recertified too to be safe.  I'll report back later.

C34 mkII "Ambitious"
Solomons, MD
#33
My boat didn't come with sheet bags in the cockpit against the bulkhead.  With 4 or 5 sets of lines on each side, I think I need them.  Does anybody have any recommendation on size/attachment/vendor for these?  I see BoatUS only carries mesh bags in two sizes.  Is there a better option I might be missing?

C34 mkII "Ambitious"
Solomons, MD
#34
Main Message Board / Dinghy Restoration
March 20, 2003, 07:31:33 AM
For a price I couldn't refuse (free), I recently picked up fiberglass dinghy.  However, it is 25 years old and needs some quick work to look presentable.  My biggest problem is the gelcoat.  It is cracked and crazed from sitting in the sun unprotected for the last 10 years.  I was going to fill the few larger voids with epoxy putty, then sand and paint the whole thing with single-part Interlux Brightside topside paint.  This paint is pretty thin stuff though, and I don't think it will fill all the smaller cracks.  Is there a thickening agent for it or has anybody used the primer for this purpose? It doesn't have to be perfect, it's just a dink.  I just haven't used the topside paint on a hull for almost 10 years and I forget how it works and flows.  Any feedback is appreciated.

Thanks.

C34 mkII "Ambitious"
Solomons, MD
#35
Main Message Board / Dinette Table Modification
February 21, 2003, 08:40:08 AM
Has anybody done a dinette table modification like the one on this boat? (I hope I can post the picture correctly).  This comes from a 1998 C34 for sale in Milford, CT (Yacht World).

 

-Brian

C34 mkII "Ambitious"
Solomons, MD
#36
Main Message Board / New Boat
December 16, 2002, 01:26:59 PM
Wow, what a busy weekend.  Friday night I closed on my new boat, a 1997 Catalina 34.  Sunday I sailed 45 miles down the Chesapeake from Annapolis to Solomons in about 15 knots of wind, one tack the whole way.  What a ride and a beautiful day too (for December anyway).  These are great boats and "Ambitious" performed well with no suprises.  

Now I have to hurry up and winterize the whole thing.  Can anybody tell me if the Mark II has an inspection port in the aft watertank.  I don't see one, but maybe I missed it.  Everything has been rushed and I am still studying the owners manual.

My own 34.  I knew someday it would happen!

C34 mkII "Ambitious"
Solomons, MD
#37
Main Message Board / How Cold? (heat pump)
December 07, 2002, 07:33:49 AM
What is the lowest temperature that a reverse cycle A/C (aka heat pump) will be effective down to?  I tried running one yesterday, but water in the line must have been frozen overnight.  Somebody else told me they wouldn't really work below 44 degrees anyway.  I don't know where they picked that number up from.  Does anybody have experience or spec's on this?

Thanks.
#38
Main Message Board / 3M, the bad years (MKII blisters)
November 27, 2002, 12:14:59 PM
I am being told that there was a 6 month period when 3M supplied a new resin to major boat manufacturers.  This included Catalina, Hunter and I think Beneteau among others.  Apparently this resin had a problem causing blisters almost immediately.  I heard this was in 1996 and that it affected some 1996 and 1997 Catalina's, inlcluding the C34 MKII.  I have searched the forum and the FAQ and don't see anything about it.  Both a surveyor and a Catalina dealer told me about it.  I also heard there as a class action lawsuit by some owners against 3M.

Does anybody have any details on this?  If so, does anybody know what hull numbers would be affected?  Any information is appreciated.
#39
Main Message Board / Engine Hours - Average
August 30, 2002, 07:17:47 AM
How many engine hours do you log per year on average?  I've seen used boats run from 75-120, but I would think boats listed as "light use" would be even less than 75.