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Messages - n624ma

#31
Main Message Board / Re: Fuel Tank Sending Unit B-1321
September 08, 2012, 02:13:41 PM
This is the one you need, Defender Catalog Item # 304318. I changed mine early last year works like a champ



This is the link to the Defender Catalog page, copy and paste ALL of it to get to Catalog Item # 304318
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|87367|94940|305311&id=1660145
   
Electric Fuel Level Sending Unit
Designed for Tank Depths from 6"-12"
Float Rotates Easily in 90 Degree Increments
Internal Components will not Corrode
   
Item #:     304318
Brand:     Moeller
Model #:     035722-10
Shipping Weight:     0.30 Lbs.
     
Our Price:     $22.99

Edited to include full URL link - Stu  9/8/12
#32
Ron, The Campbell Sailor is very different from the Michigan Sailor, it has very narrow heavily cupped blades.
I'm working with the vendor on the issue but looking for some Catalina 34 specific experiences.
The advantage is less drag when sailing. Take a look at the picture, although I'm not sure of the type of prop below it.
#33
The header says it all.

I'm looking for some real world outcomes from members that have this prop and engine combination, what rpm and speeds are you seeing.

I put a 14x8 3 blade Campbell on my 87 and max RPM is 2360 Wot (Photo Tach), engine does 3210 Wot in neutral.

I talked to West by North and they are suggesting reducing the diameter to 13"
I have searched the archives with mixed results for answers.

Note: In the search for the missing RPM I have:
                  Changed all fuel filters
                  Verified the pickup tube has no screen
                  Replaced all 3 injectors
                  Had the Injector pump overhauled
                  Checked the injection timing
                  Checked the compression
                  Adjusted the valves
                  Found no change in RPM when the bleed valve is opened

HELP!
#34
Main Message Board / Re: interior
July 17, 2012, 03:32:25 PM
Aldo, That is beautiful. Please, please more pictures and details
#35
Main Message Board / Re: Hatch Wind Scoop Decision
July 17, 2012, 03:27:51 PM
Steve,

As for the Breeze Booster taking flight. The second thing that I did was put a 2 foot long 1/8 line on the bar that goes inside the boat, we tie the other end of the line to the hatch knob. (however it has never tried to take flight)

** Very slightly off topic**
Does anybody have a "User Report" on the Breeze Booster Port Ventilators?
#36
Main Message Board / Re: Hatch Wind Scoop Decision
July 16, 2012, 07:05:52 PM
Check out the Breeze Booster, a bit pricey, but it installs and removes in seconds and brings a lot of air into the forward hatch. We have had one for several years and two boats. Worth every penny.
http://www.breezebooster.com/
#37
Main Message Board / Re: Holding Tank Vent Option
April 24, 2012, 01:55:47 PM
Mike,
Good question, the reason for the change was to go to a material that doesn't permeate in two months. Due to the limited clearance above the tank this worked out the best, as sanitation hose wall thickness prevented the locker lid from closing. without flexing  the top of the tank.
#38
Main Message Board / Holding Tank Vent Option
April 23, 2012, 03:44:12 PM
For anyone looking to get rid of the original and probably permeated "water line" hose on the holding tank vent on Mk I's (not sure about Mk II's) here is what I did.

The tubing is 3/4" PEX and the tank elbow simply has a short piece of 3/4" copper tube pressed over the barbs on the original elbow and a "Sharkbite" coupler attaches the PEX to the elbow.

The rest of the fittings are the plastic Watts WaterPex fittings. At the stanchion vent I used a black rubber adapter coupling, all of the bits and pieces came  from the plumbing section of  of the local True Value.
#39
Main Message Board / Re: Radar wiring question
April 22, 2012, 03:44:52 AM
Joe.
Here are the pic's.

The radar cable comes from a stern pole (which is now lying on the coach roof, which is why the splice box is is pulled so far aft) and up the stbd guard tube along with the wind cable, the rudder sensor cable will go there soon. it comes out inside the Navpod  and then out the bottom of the Navpod and up to the C-80. The exposed cables to the C-80 are normally in a piece of split loom attached to the guard.

The port guard is pretty full, but as I mentioned it has the speed, depth, power, Nmea 183, Seatalk and compass cables.

The thinwall tube that you can see is 3/4 OD sealed to the deck and extending about 4 inches up inside the guard to keep water out.

Hope this helps.
#40
Main Message Board / Re: Radar wiring question
April 16, 2012, 03:53:23 PM
Joe,  
I have a Raymarine 4Kw dome and a C 80 chartplotter mounted on a 1" angle pedestal guard with the big white wire in the guard (along with the speed, depth, wind, autopilot, compass sensor, power and the Nema and Seatalk data cables that go to the nav station. Yes. both down tubes are full) . The white cable is cut and goes to a "euro" style terminal strip housed in a Radio Shack plastic project box below deck. I cut the cable for  ease of annual removal/re-installation for the winter with out needing to get at the dome.

I'll try to get some pictures this weekend so you can see how I did it.
#41
Peggy,
I understand your incredulity (it matches mine), however I've washed, rinsed, sanitized, and PureAyre'd it to death!

All openings in the tank are connected to their proper plumbing except the macerator outlet which is closed out with a threaded plug (macerator and associated plumbing is removed).

It is 24 years old and I have no idea of its' prior usage history. If I leave the locker open so air can circulate there is very little odor in the boat, if I close the locker, when you open it there is no doubt in your mind that the holding tank is in there.

As I said before, I taped a sandwich bag to the top of the tank and four hours later cut open the bottom of the bag and stuck my nose in the bag to do the sniff test, so there was no outside influence on the test.

My last boat was a Hunter 33 (Jabsco and bladder) which I changed to PHII and Ronco, a lot of scrubbing and NO odor from the head, with an uphill 9' plumbing run, (I swear the PHII can flush golf balls). I've been here before and won. This time I'm losing!



#42
The answer is YES!!

This is after I had washed the tank and the inside of the locker with Dawn dish detergent and a scrub brush followed by a hot water rinse followed by Dawn with Clorox and a scrub brush and a hot water rinse. Then misted everything and everywhere with Marine PureAyre. A week later I rechecked and and still had the odor of permeation, so I did what any real American sailor would do, I HOSED the area with PureAyre (if some is good, too much should be almost enough!) 

I redid the sandwich bag taped to the top of the tank away from all openings and it still smells.

Looks like a new tank just got added to the winter project list!!
#43
Claygr,
Absolutely!! We are in the Ever Expanding East Coast No Discharge Zone so the macerator and all its hoses and fittings came out replaced by plugs in the tank and through hull valve. But as Peggy said good question.
#44
Peggy,
As we type Marine PureAyre is on the job! I misted all surfaces of the locker and the tank until they were covered then scrub brushed everything I could touch and then did the tank top again (just to be sure).

Everything was connected when I did the leak test, no leaks at 2 PSI for 20 minutes, and the sandwich bag was away from all the fittings and I literally had my nose in the bag.

I'll let you know the results in a week.
#45
Peggy,

I did the following test on my tank (I'm in the same place as Indian Falls is in the "Get rid of the STINK" project) I took a sandwich size zip lock bag opened it up and and duct taped it upside down to the top of the holding tank, about four hours later I cut open the bottom and stuck in my nose, PERMEATED!!

The week before I had washed the tank and the inside of the locker with Dawn dish detergent and a scrub brush followed by a hot water rinse followed by Dawn with Clorox and a scrub brush and a hot water rinse.

All the hoses (Drain. Fill and Vent along with the fittings) were replaced over the last two weekends. There are no leaks or cracks, I did a 2 PSI leak check after the hose change (Aircraft mechanics, ever paranoid!)

I was a true believer in "Poly Tanks Can't Permeate" but maybe a 24 year old black B179 can.

Waiting for ideas.